How To Install the Summit Racing Fans In the Engine Lid On A 1993 MR2T
From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" (marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com)
Subject: Summit fan instructions...
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 6:58:11 PDT
Detailed Instructions On How To
Install the Summit Racing Fans
In the Engine Lid On A 1993 MR2T
TOOLS USED
8mm socket 1/4 drive
10mm socket 1/4 drive
3/8 SAE socket 1/4 drive
short 1/4 drive extension
#11 or #12 or 3/16 drill bit
drill bit that is slightly larger than the
hook up wire you will be using.
small drill
scissors
#2 phillips screw driver
hair dryer or hot air gun (if necessary)
PARTS PURCHASED
Summit Racing Fans 2 ea. SUMG4910
(Note: the motor will be dismounted from the frame shown
in the catalog.)
4 10/24 1/2 inch long aluminum bolts
4 10/24 nuts
NOTE: I used aluminum bolts and nuts.
3/4-1/2 inch angle aluminum two 3 foot pieces should do
NOTE: this 3/4 inch aluminum angle is specifically
3/4 inch on one side and 1/2 inch on the other.
3M Adhesive, Tar & Wax Remover CAT# 03607
2 rolls of 3M Molding Tape CAT# 03609NA
Stanley screen door brace # 74-8264 CD1739 (2C)
Small tube of BLUE thread locker
Blade or cartridge fuse holder and 25 amp fuse
15 feet or so of 12 gauge wire preferred color red/black
various solder lugs female spade lugs, 1/4 hole loop lugs
and 5/16 hole loop lugs.
If shrink tube is not used then some electrical tape
would be needed.
NOTE: Please read all the way through this procedure first
before doing any work.
NOTE: Of course any time you are going to wire something up
or are going to work with live wires then disconnect
the NEG lead from the battery, this will keep you from
accidently damaging anything.
Also if you have your stereo code set, make sure you
unset it before you disconnect the battery.
PROCEDURES
Lay down some towels so you can put the lid top down on
them to work on it.
Start by removing the engine lid from the car to do this
I will assume that you still have the stock temp. sensor
in place, first unplug the sensor, and move the wire over
out of the way. Then using a 10mm socket and drive remove
the 4 bolts at the hinges that secure the engine lid and
lift it off the car and lay it down on a clean towel so
you don't scratch it.
If you are by yourself, and have no one to help you, this
can be done if you can hold the lid up, and unscrew the last
bolt at the same time, then still holding on, lift the lid
using the latch loop in the center end of the lid.
Once you have the lid down on the towels then begin to
remove the metal liner using a #2 phillips screw driver.
It has been awhile since I did this so there may be one
or two other bolts to remove other than the phillips screws.
Once the metal liner is off, move it over out of the way.
Now, placement will be determined by if you have the TRD
strut tower bars or not, if not then you should be able
to place the fans just about anywhere in each half of the
lid, as I did not place them for the stock strut brace then
some measurment to check for clearance should be done.
As for the TRD strut brace, I had to place the fans so that
they would not hit the brace bar, and there is one other trick
that can be done to provide more clearance.
On my car with the TRD bars then counting from the rear of the
lid if you count by louver slots, the passengers side fan is
set so that the mounting bolt nuts set into the 8th slot
and the left (as you look down at it) aluminum angle is off
center left, as measured from the left aluminum angle to the
center rib on the lid by 2 3/4 inches.
The drivers side fan is measured dead center, meaning that
measured from the center rib on the lid, the aluminum angle
pieces are equal distant from the center rib.
Also the drivers side fan mounting nuts line up to the 10th slot
from the rear of the lid.
You may require a different mounting depending on what you
have in your engine bay, measure to be sure. You can also use
some of the 3M tape to lightly tack the fans in place while you
turn them on to find out if they are going to hit anything.
The use of a 9v battery for power should be sufficient to find out.
Once you have decided where it is specifically you are going to
mount the fans, then I cut 4 pieces of aluminum angle 15.5 inches
long each. This will allow you maximum surface area for the 3M
tape to stick.
Now, dismount the fans from the large metal frames that they
come in. Each fan is connected to the frame using two small
bolts and nuts.
NOTE: it will probably be easier to work with if you leave
the fan blade off and then put it back on later when
you are ready to mount the fans in the engine lid.
After removing the fans from the metal frame then turn your
attention to the blade on each fan, there is an 8mm nut that
holds each blade on, using an 8mm socket and drive then remove
the blade hold down nut and then remove the plastic fan blade.
Note that there is a thick metal washer on the motor shaft under
the blade. Remove the washer, and then put the blade back on
then put the metal washer on top, and then the nut back on
and tighten it down, BUT careful, don't over tighten, it is
easy to strip it out if too much pressure is applied.
This little trick will allow almost a full 1/4 more room as it
will cause the blade to recess by the thickness of the metal
washer.
Those that are concerned about the nut coming loose can use some
blue thread locker to secure the nut on the motor shaft.
Now you are ready to measure and drill the holes in the
aluminum angle pieces. So measure where the hole should be
and using the #11 or #12 drill bit, drill one hole in each of
two aluminum angle pieces for each motor.
Allow sufficient room from the 1/2 side wall of the angle
to let the head of the bolt set flat, that means that you
will need to measure the hole over from the side wall of the
angle probably .100 thousandths or so.
NOTE: a #11 or #12 drill bit is close to the size of a
3/16 drill bit, although the 3/16 being a little larger
at 0.1875 but still in the range of the 10/24 screw size
which is .181 to .189
NOTE: the holes are drilled into the 3/4 inch side as this
is the side that you will put the 3M tape on to stick
it down to the engine lid.
NOTE: go to the pictures of my car at the MR2 WEB site and look
at how the fans are mounted, (not the SPAL fans.)
After you have the holes drilled then using the 10/24 bolts and
nuts, mount the fans on the aluminum angle, one on each side
of the motor. If the 10/24 bolt proves to be a touch long then
you can stack on some washers to take up the slack so that the
bolt end is just flush with the top of the nut.
The head of the bolt should go through the aluminum angle first
then add any washers if necessary, then through the motor case
and then the nut on top to secure.
After you have both aluminum angles on then you are ready to
place that fan mount in the engine lid.
CLEAN and PREP the engine lid area first, this is very important
to getting the fans to say in place once mounted.
First start by using some of the 3M cleaning fluid and clean
the area where the aluminum angle will set in the engine lid.
Make sure that there is no wax, grease, dirt, or any other
contaminants present. Also wipe down the aluminum angle piece
where the 3M tape will seat, and make sure it is clean too.
Remember that you have two rolls of tape, each roll is 60 inches
long, and the angle pieces are 15.5 inches long so you won't be
able to cover every inch of the angle but that won't matter as
15 inches on each piece will be more than sufficient.
So you should be able to put two 15 inch strips of 3M tape on each
aluminum angle piece on the 3/4 inch side, 8 times 15 = 120 or
both rolls of tape.
So measure and cut two 15 inch strips of 3M tape for each of the
aluminum angle pieces and stick the one side down on the aluminum
angle piece, do not remove the outer red cover yet.
Make sure you press the tape down in place good and that it is
as straight as possible.
After you have all four strips of tape down on the two angle pieces
on one of the motors then make sure that the motor and the angle
pieces are aligned and not skewed off to one side or the other.
In other words when you look at the motor mount screws and the
aluminum angle pieces, the mount screws are lined up parallel
in line with each other, and the aluminum angle pieces are
parallel.
Now you are ready to stick the unit down in the lid but before
you do, do a dry run of it first, set unit into the engine lid
and let it lay there check for clearance, make sure the bolt
nuts line up with the louvers in the engine lid OK.
After you are sure of the fit then remove the red cover plastic
protection strip from the 3M tape and then carefully lay the
unit down in the engine lid where it is suppose to set and
press it in place.
Make sure you press it down well all along the length of the
angle piece so that it will stick in and stay.
After sticking in the unit, then using the GOOP glue
GLUE ONLY THE TOP AND BOTTOM of the aluminum angle,
as the old commercial used to say, "Just a dab will do you."
Just put a dab of the GOOP glue at or near the top and
bottom of the aluminum angle pieces, remember that you may
some day need to remove this.
Let this set until the glue sets up while that is happening
you can go ahead and finish the other motor mount the same
way, making sure that you measure properly first.
After you have both units mounted in the lid then put the fan
blades back on in the manner that I described earlier making sure
that you have put the washer spacer on top of the fan blade.
This will allow the blade face to recess approx. 1/4 inch so that
will give you valuable additional clearance necessary so that the
blade tips won't hit anything.
As for hooking up the wiring, there are many different ways to do
this, please see my previous detailed instructions on how to
hook up the wiring, by looking over the detailed instrucions
for the intercooler fans.
You can use several different methods of control, I choose to
manually control the fans, so I ran a ground control wire from
the engine compartment into the cockpit area on the drivers side
and put the switch where the stock fog light switch used to be.
NOTE: it is always preferred to switch ground, not +
On most cars there is an empty plate there next to the fog light
switch where one can mount a small switch.
Others have choosen to control the fans from there IC fan relay.
If you have the dual IC fans in place, then you can use the relay
that turns on the second fan to tell it to turn on the engine lid
fans.
Or you could purchase a seperate temperture controller device
and have it turn on the engine lid fans.
If you want control to be from some other source then run the
control wire over to that source.
The power source is of course the #2 fuse box where the two large
white wires come in from the alternator.
A simple way to feed the wire through is to drill a small hole
in the bottom of the #2 fuse box just over and across from where
the large terminal connector is for the alternator wires.
If you look, there is a clear space there more than sufficient
to drill a small hole in the bottom of the box.
This is the best way to do this as it will keep the box water tight
and at the same time allow the wire to be fed out the bottom of the
box.
To do the hook up then use a drill bit that is a little larger
than the size wire you are hooking up the fans with.
Drill a small hole just in front of where the #2 fuse box
mount point is. What I mean is there is a mount point to the
chassis that is in the drivers side corner of the box.
just in front of this mount point is a clear space where a small
hole can easily be drilled.
After you have drilled the hole in the bottom of the box then
feed the wire through the bottom of the box and when it gets
down far enough reach down and pull it back up, routing it over
to the side strut tower. You can use tape to secure it to the
side of the strut tower, or stick down wire ties or many other
devices that are available to route the wire.
Route the wire over to the side, and you will need to remove
the side engine lid trim piece in order to route the wire
down the side.
Once you have a location where you are going to put the
relay, then you can route the wire over to that point.
And measure it for length.
On the fuse box side of the wire you will attach a 10/12 gauge
1/4 hole wire lug to the wire, and using a 10mm socket remove
one of the nuts that is holding down the large white wires
that are the main feed from the alternator.
I like to solder all of my lugs on so solder the wire lug on
to the end of the wire you just routed into the #2 fuse box
and then attach it to the stud that the alternator wire is on
and put the nut back on and carefully torque it down, tight
but don't over do it.
NOTE: of course this assumes that you have measured the wire
to length, over to where the relay is going to be
mounted, then cut it and solder the lug on the end.
Now, decide where you are going to put the fuse, what I like
to do is solder the fuse into the line as this makes for a
sure connection, but does make it more difficult to change
the fuse if it ever blows. But if you have done your job
properly then the fuse should never blow.
If you don't want to solder it into the line then get the
proper fuse holder with wires attached of course, and solder
the fuse holder into the wire that you just fed into the #2
fuse box. There should be more than sufficient room to fit
it into the #2 fuse box. For these fans you want to use
a 25 amp fuse, which should be sufficient to handle the load.
Then finish routing your wire over to where you are going to
mount the relay and then cut the wire to length, and solder
a female spade connector on to the end of it and attach the
wire to the relay at the proper connector on the relay.
If you got the relay from me then it would go to pin 30.
If you have put the counter EMF diode on the relay already
then make sure that when you hook up the coil wires you
hook them up in reverse polarity to the diode so if the
silver band on the diode is on pin 85 then the + or positive
relay coil wire goes there and - the ground goes to 86.
if the silver band is on 86 then the + wire goes there.
If you are going to manually control the fans as I have then
you will have to feed a single wire into the drivers compartment
through the large wire bundle that goes in directly behind the
drivers seat. Others on the MR2 WEB site have detailed how
to do this so I will not go into it here.
After having fed your single ground wire into the drivers
compartment and routed it to where you are going to mount the
control switch then solder the wire end to one of the terminals
on the switch, and the other goes to a close ground such as a
screw that holds something else to the chassis.
Then when the switch is flipped it will connect ground out
to the relay at either pin 85 or 86 which ever you have
chosen for ground depending on how you hooked up the diode.
The positive side of the coil can go to pin 30 if you want
a close easy hook up, you could make up a very short jumper wire
and solder it to the relay jumping pin 30 to the positive pin
you have chosen for the the relay coil. Of course this depends
on how you hooked up the diode. If the diode silver band is on
pin 86 of the relay then that is the side that you jumper to
pin 30 if the silver band is on pin 85 then that is the pin that
you jump to pin 30.
Then all that is left is to hook up the fan wires, these can
be routed down and along the little channel that runs under
where the engine lid is mounted on the hinges.
At this point you will have wanted to finish the engine lid up
and the mechanical install of the fans, and the re-install the
engine lid on to the car, and tighten down the four 10mm bolts
that hold it in place.
You will also want to install the new lid hold rod at this time.
This is made from a stanley screen door stiffener rod that is cut
down to the proper length and then enlarge the hole in the end
to accept a 6mm X 20 bolt and 6mm nut on the end. This then
screws into the hole that is on the drivers side of the lid
and the end of the rod seats into the top of the screw that
holds the engine lid side trim piece on. The 6mm screw is
screwed into the engine lid and then the nut and the bolt
together are tighted so that they grip the rod end and do not
allow it to swing freely. This will put sufficient tension on
the rod so that when you swing the rod over out of the way
to close it, it will stay in place and not swing around.
Using a Stanley screen door stiffening rod, measure down
6 and 7/8 inches from the flattened end where it bends.
Then cut the rod to size and round off the end. I got a small
plastic vacuum hose cap and put on the end of the rod for a
little dressing.
Now finish the electrical hook up of the fans, making sure that
you observe proper polarity so that the fans blow out, up and
out of the engine compartment, not down into it.
You can also use a small 9v battery to check for polarity
since the main car battery should be disconnected at this point.
Hook up lengths of wire to the positive sides of the fan leads
and route them over to where you mounted the relay. You should
be able to feed both of the wires into one of the 10/12 female
spade lugs and solder them in. Then connect them to pin 87 of
the relay, (assuming you got the relay from me.)
Now hook together the two negative wires from the fans and
run them over to a close chassis ground. I used the one
that is on the side of the chassis just under the side trim
piece next to the end of the strut tower.
Connect a proper sized wire lug to the ground wires then
bolt them to ground, I believe for this bolt, a 5/16 lug
hole should work fine.
If you have not hooked up the relay coil negative side then
route a short piece of wire over to which ever pin has the
positive side of the diode on it and then attach a female
spade lug to the wire and then attach it to the proper pin
on the relay, and then route the wire over to a chassis ground
point or you could use the same one that you hooked up the fan
grounds to.
That should just about do it, make sure you check all of your
electrical connections, and have placed the relay out of the way
some where. I have mine mounted just under the lip of the
side chassis where the end trim pieces set. There is plenty of
space there to mount the relay, just about any good double sided
tape should work to attach it, but make sure that you clean the
surfaces good first before trying to stick the tape down.
After you are satisfied with the connections then hook the NEG
battery cable back up, and power on the fans and check that they
work OK, and that they are blowing in the proper direction.