If you are looking for serious horsepower from your MR-2, then raising the boost is of prime consideration. Keep in mind however, that a few modifications should precede this procedure, in order to get the most from your engine. Before raising the boost on your engine you should have performed the following:
1. Remove exhaust restriction by replacing the stock muffler with free-flowing unit or straight pipe.
2. Reduce intake restriction by either a drop in K&N filter or more preferable, an open element type, low restriction filter.
3. Raise the stock fuel-cut limit with a FCD, (Fuel Cut Defencer) This will allow boost over 13 psi. . The Zener Diode FCD works well, and is simple to do.
4. Install a good aftermarket boost gauge.
Personally, I'd stay away from Boost Controllers such as the natural gas
ball-type valve. (Home Depot Boost Controller) They are way too easy to turn and
have no locking mechanism. Next, What good is a boost controller under the hood
when your driving? No Good that's what! My mod will install the boost controller
to the left of the Driver's seat where you can get to it for cockpit adjustment.
Some people may tell you that more hose will aggravate the boost lag problem,
and that you should mount the Boost Controller under the hood, But I've
experimented with it both ways, and there's really no difference as far as I can
tell.
Parts List:
1 Click Type Brass valve P.N. 1824, available from ATS @ 1800-248-0638
or/alternate 1 Nylon locking Valve P.N. 6ZC08 available from Grainger @1-800-323-0620
2- 1/4 in. barbed fittings and 2 -90 degree elbows to plumb your Valve and adapt it to the Hose, (Hardware Store),
12 ft of 6mm-1/4 I.D. Silicone Hose, 2 small hose clamps.
Tool List:
10 mm wrench,
Knife,
Common/Philips Screwdriver,
small snips
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Step 1: You want your engine cold for this, you have to get at the Turbo. Open Hood. The easiest way to gain access to the Turbo is to remove as much Intake Plumbing as possible. Loosen the MAF sensor from it's Intake tube and place it aside. Now remove the rest of the intake plumbing all the way to the Turbo. Now you have easy access. |
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Step 2: Observe small hose (about 3 inches) on Turbo. One end connects to the Compressor outlet (see left picture above, left side) the other end connects to the waste gate, (same picture right side). Remove hose. Now, Install new Silicone Hose to both fittings and carefully route hose to rubber bulkhead fitting behind driver's seat. Care must be taken to route the hose without any kinks. Also, make sure your new Silicone Hose does not lie on any heat source or sharp edge. |
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Step 3: Remove driver's seat, remove compartment lid behind seat. Now, pull the carpeted panel that sits behind the driver's seat up at it's edges and peel it up until you expose the Rubber Bulkhead grommet . Carefully pry grommet loose, and cut a slit in it and facilitate the Silicone hose. Route Hose through hole in Bulkhead. Now carefully re-install Grommet. Cut away some of the center to accommodate Hose. Carefully cut slit in carpeted panel to allow hose to transition to the floor. (See picture) Re-install Compartment lid and Driver's seat. |
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Step 4: You are now ready to terminate your
Silicone Hose and install your new Boost Controller! The Hose that comes
off the Turbo Compressor is the pressure side. It should flow Into the
Inlet side of the Valve. This is really only necessary with Valves
marked with a flow direction, or if the Valve has a spring loaded ball,
then the ball side is the inlet. Make sure the Valve is completely open.
Install 90 degree elbows and barbed fittings to valve. Now carefully cut
hose to length and install on barbed fittings. (See picture) I used
small zip ties to secure hose to fittings and tie hose together. The
whole assembly should lay on the floor next to the seat.
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Step 5: Go drive car. Carefully dial in boost by turning valve clockwise a click or two at a time until the boost gauge starts to show results. I'd recommend some good fuel injector cleaner such as Redline Injector cleaner for a tank or two before raising the boost beyond 13 psi. While your dialing in your boost, carefully listen to the engine for any pinging/knocking under full boost. If you hear any pinging, get your foot out of it quick! The stock Fuel Injection system is quite good, and will support 16 psi with no problem if it is well maintained. Just remember, As you remove the factory safety measures such as fuel cut, and modify factory boost settings, you assume risk. That risk can be minimized by keeping your engine in a top state of tune regarding fuel and ignition. The enclosed pictures compare the $14.00 Boost Controller with a $100.00 Boost Controller. From a functional standpoint, there's no difference. I actually find the brass valve $14.00 Boost Controller easier to adjust on the fly than the $100.00 Extreme Motorsports Boost Controller. Now go hunt down some Supras and RX-7s! |
Enjoy!
Bob Gilliam
Turbocanon@aol.com
