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In this installment we will address the issue of Radiated and Conducted Heat transfer from the Exhaust Manifold/Converter to the Intake Plumbing. By decreasing the temperature in the intake plumbing, you will increase Horsepower. I believe the formula for this is 1% Horsepower increase for every 5.4 degrees Fahrenheit at a test temperature of 80 degrees Fahrenheit. My G-tech pro says 7-8 Horsepower which works out to about 3% Horsepower increase, or roughly 16 to 17 degree cooler air into my engine. My test temperature was 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
If you are running your boost at the ragged edge, you'll want to turn it down a bit and re-dial it in after the mod. My boost increased somewhere between a 1/2 and 3/4 Lb. This article is intended to be a guide for those wishing to modify their cars and while I am confident you will be pleased with the results, I can take no responsibility for anything you do to your car.
O.K. here's the problem. The intake pipe that exits the Compressor and routes air to the C.A.C. Charge Air Cooler/ Intercooler sits above the exhaust manifold where it soaks up a lot of Heat. To make matters worse, it is mechanically fastened to the head where even more heat is conducted directly to the pipe.. Very Very Bad.
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Let's talk about what you'll need to do this mod. Parts List: One 40 in x 12 in piece of Thermal barrier cloth, item no. 1832 from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies for $27.99. 1-800-688-6946 , Safety Wire, Aluminum Tape. Tool List: Metric wrenches/sockets, Screwdrivers, Wire Snips/Safety Wire Pliers. |
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First of all, remove the cross-member that sits above your engine. Next, remove the the side panel that sits above your Intercooler. Now remove the Intake Pipe that exits the Intercooler and enters the Throttle body. Last but most importantly, remove the bracket, (see Picture above) that mounts between the Cylinder head and Compressor to Intercooler Pipe. I opted to not replace this bracket after the installation of the Thermal Barrier Cloth, because I think it is unnecessary. If you feel it important to have a bracket there, then I suggest you fabricate a small aluminum bracket, and isolate the mounting hard-points with a phenolic spacer that will minimize heat transfer, but like I said, I don't think it's all that important to have a bracket there in the first place.
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Now you are ready to begin the install. Carefully lay out the material on top of the Compressor to Intercooler Pipe and start at the Intercooler . Carefully wrap from the top down, safety wiring as you go , you'll want the overlap on the bottom where it can do the most good. Continue towards the Compressor, and by now you should have an idea where to cut the material. You'll need to be careful around the BOV and trim it so that you have sufficient material to cover right up to the Compressor. The material is sold by the foot, and there's none to spare, so again, trim very carefully. |
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Now you can take the piece of material left over and cover the Intercooler to Throttle- body Pipe. It's easier off the vehicle, and once your done, use the Aluminum tape to dress all the edges, because it looks good and seals in any loose fiberglass matting. Re-install the pipe and re-assemble all removed items except the bracket I mentioned earlier. |
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Go drive the car. The first thing you should notice is a reduction in Turbo-lag. I noticed what seemed to be an increase in Torque that accompanied the modest Horsepower increase. Dollar for Dollar, I believe this to be a very good value and the mod should only take you two or three hours to complete. |
I think it important to note that most of the car magazines that we hold dear, i.e. Turbo, Sport Compact Car, etc put a heavy emphasis on glamour under the hoods of street cars, while the true race cars with race engines are far from pretty. Don't be fooled into thinking you have to have follow this lead. Horsepower is a good thing and it isn't always pretty!
Enjoy!
Bob Gilliam Turbocanon@aol.com
