Detailed Instructions On How To Install A New Flywheel and Clutch On A 1993 MR2 Turbo
Disclaimer:
Remember as always, what YOU do to YOUR car
is what YOU do.
I would not attempt this work with out the BGBs.
NOTE: please read all the way through these instructions at least
once before you even start this work.
TOOLS USED:
Sockets:
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
24mm
Categories of sockets:
wobble sockets (or universal joints)
deep sockets
standard size sockets
1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive as needed
Extensions:
various lengths as needed
1/4 drive
3/8 drive
1/2 drive
Torque wrenches:
3/8 drive 10-45 ft/lbs (Griot's Garage)
3/8 drive 10-75 ft/lbs (Sears Craftsman)
1/2 drive 50-250 ft/lbs (Griot's Garage)
3/8 drive 10-100 inch/lbs (Sears Craftsman)
Socket Drives:
1/4 drive handle
3/8 drive stubby
3/8 drive standard
1/2 drive standard
1/2 drive breaker bar 18" long
Open-end/Boxend wrenches:
10mm
12mm
14mm
others as necessary
Air Powered Tools used:
450 ft/lb torque wrench
run from a 5 hp 5 gal tank compressor
125 psi working pressure.
NOTE: this is not absolutely necessary but
you will have a very difficult time if
you are going to change out the flywheel
and have to struggle with the eight OEM
bolts. The 450 ft/lb air wrench did not
have any problem at all with the bolts.
I had all eight out in less than a minute.
Various pliers, channel locks, and such as
you may need.
Hammer (up to about a 2.5 pound sledge is OK)
piece of oak wood, 1 inch X 1 inch about 2 feet long
flash light, or shop lights as needed
#2 phillips screw driver
dial calipers to measure the height of the flywheel pins.
Special SST purchased:
Fancy $150 bearing seal puller
NOTE: either I did not use it right or it just didn't work well.
probably didn't use it right :(
Additional equipment used:
transmission jack purchased from Harbor Freight
2.5 ton floor jack with 21 inch reach purchased from Harbor Freight
Additional parts purchased:
ACT clutch #T-010 and TYSD018 disk
New OEM flywheel
NOTE: if you are getting a new OEM flywheel make sure
that you get the three pins, as they will not
be included with the new flywheel. You CAN NOT
install the pressure plate with out the pins.
pin # is 90250-08054
New OEM flywheel bolts
New OEM pressure plate bolts
New OEM fork
New OEM fork pivot ball bolt
Left and Right side axle shaft oil seals
engine rear main bearing seal
clutch guide tool toyota #09301-00220
toyota OEM clutch release bearing #31230-20190
large 4' X 8' sheet of 2 inch thick foam rubber to
lay the strut assemblies on.
Solenoid contact refurb kits
28226-72080
28226-72010
one kit is for one side, and one kit is for
the other side.
Details on parts:
New OEM flywheel sent to ACT for lightening, and
rebalancing, then OEM flywheel and ACT pressure plate
sent to Larry Narcus at Carbotech for cryo treatment.
4 quarts of RedLine 75W90 gear oil
4oz bottle of RedLine limited slip differential
friction modifier.
Magnalube=G TEFLON grease manufactured by
Carleton Stuart Corp.,
13-02 44th Ave.
Long Island City, N.Y. 11101
PH: 1-718-392-9100
INSTRUCTIONS:
FIRST: disconnect the NEG. cable from the battery.
Part of the procedures is to remove the starter and
disconnecting the large + side of the starter
you don't want to start arc welding with the end of it. :)
Since I have planned for this work to take about one weeks time
then I did not want the front tires to set with weight on them for
an entire week, so I jacked up the front of the car and put it on
a good set up jack stands.
NOTE: I did a few more things during this time, including changing
out the alternator, and changing out one of my exhaust pipes.
If you think you need to change out the alternator, or for
any reason suspect that you will soon, then this is the prime
time to do it with the rear suspension crossmember out.
even then, it was a bit of a struggle, I would hate to think
how much hassle it would be with the crossmember in.
I would highly suggest draining the transmission fluid as the axle
shafts will be out of the seals, and you can easily slosh oil around
and out the holes, and as it was time for me to change the tranny oil
anyway, then I drained it. Also you really will not need the added
weight when you put the thing back in. Believe me on this one. :)
I then proceeded with all of the top side work first in order to
get it done before I jacked up the back end of the car, this makes
it easier to get at things.
I first started by removing the AFM this was much easier to get it
out of the way, it is an HKS super power flow. I also did not want
to put a strain on the hoses when the engine is lowered.
I also loosened the hoses on the #2 and #4 air pipes so as not to
put any strain on them, also as I have the ground wires that go over
from the engine lid latch to the intake manifold, I disconnected one
end, so as not to strain or break them.
I also removed the two bolts that hold the coolant filler hose and cap
this must be done or you will wind up either tearing the hose or
pulling it off the pipe, which would not be a good thing.
I did not find it necessary to disconnect much else for strain relief
but you may on your engine, want to look around and see if there is
anything else in the way, I thought about the AC lines but after looking
at them, they were OK.
Of course you will need to remove the strut tower brace.
I basically followed the BGB except for a few points where I decided
it (at least for me) would be easier.
We are starting on page MX-10 of the second vol. of the BGB.
Do all of the top side work first before jacking up the back of
the car.
The LH engine mounting stay has two bolts, they are different,
Don't put them back in the wrong place, what I did was just leave
the bolts in the holes of the stay, and set it aside for later.
And the stay itself, has a specific direction that it must be placed
back on.
Next remove the starter, there are two bolts, you may want to use a
mirror and flash light to see them, this is where the 14mm wobble
sockets really came in handy.
NOTE: that the right side bolt for the starter holds a bracket also
this bracket holds the wire bundle for the AFM cable and one
that goes to the starter.
NOTE: I bought the parts to refurb the inside contacts on the
starter, they are cheap and now is an excellent time to
do them, this will help the starter last a while longer.
I did not have the refurb kit for the brushes.
Also note that when you put the contact back in and tighten
them down, they need to be perfectly level, you can use a
wrench to move them around and make them level after
tightening.
The refurb of the solenoid contacts will be covered later
in these instructions.
Next is to disconnect the backup light connector and the larger
transmission to chassis grounding cable.
Then on the rear of the transmission, disconnect the speed pulse
generator cable connector.
DO NOT FORGET to remove these connectors or you will pull the
wire out when the transmission is lowered and you really do not
want to do that.
Next the BGB says to remove three of the SEVEN bolts that hold down
the transmission to the engine, you need to mark all of these bolts
and where they came from. One suggestion was to make a blow up of
the diagram in the book, and then label the picture and the bolts.
For these first three bolts to find them use the starter position
as shown, to find them. I also used a mirror and flashlight.
Two of these first three bolts are easy to find using the starter
hole as a reference point as shown in the BGB. The third is over
covered by a cable bracket wire bundle. This wire bundle is on the
bracket that the bolt holds, and has to be removed first before the
bolt can be seen, so just pull on the wire holder and pull it off
the metal bracket that is connected to the bolt.
Also to find the bolt you could follow the wire bundle around and
find where it is connected to the bracket.
Make sure you use some method to mark these bolts and their specific
positions as you will not remember all of them and where they go if
you don't.
Again the wobble sockets will help take these bolts out or use of
a universal joint and a long extension. 14mm and 17mm sockets were
used.
Since Toyota factory likes to use lock tight on everything then
you will probably have as much fun removing these as I did, but
a good 1/2 drive breaker bar will even the odds.
NOTE: on the middle of these first three bolts there is a grounding
wire lug, you will need to bend the lug over out of the way
or it will not allow the socket to seat on the bolt head.
At step 13 in the book this is where I changed a few things I
did. I did not remove the shafts as shown in the book but rather
found it easier (at least to me anyway) to remove the entire
drive shaft-carrier-lower arm-brake rotor-strut rod assembly
and leaving the suspension arms attached to the crossmember.
Yes, it is cumbersome to handle, but not impossible for one person.
And there is a fairly simple way to put it all back in and get
all of the suspension bolts to go in and fit with out a struggle.
You will of course need to disconnect the brake lines to do this
and I disconnected where the main line screws into the little junction
that is screwed to the side of the wheel well.
I put a small piece of 1/4 inch rubber hose on them and a bolt
screwed into the top of the rubber hose so that no dirt will get in.
You can tape up the other end that goes with the carrier.
Now, for the ABS speed sensors, these are real fun to get out.
So if yours are rusted in as bad as mine were then you may save
time by just removing the entire wire assembly for the ABS sensor
which will keep you from destroying one as I did, and paying
$89 bucks for a new one.
There are two bolts that hold the metal tube on the inside of the
wheel well, and then the rubber grommet that feeds through the wheel
well to the engine compartment. The one on the passengers side comes
out just below where the cruise control motor is mounted, so you will
have to remove the three bolts that hold the cruse control motor in
place, so you can get at it. Remove the connector feed through also
you will have to do this from the wheel well side, I just used a small
pair of pliers and pushed the plastic tip of the wire connector holder
through so it would come out of the hole.
Then pull the connector apart and then from the engine side push the
grommet through the hole and feed the wire and connector down through
into the wheel well.
But if you insist on pulling the sensor out of the carrier then you will
need to soak it with some Aerokroil or some kind of nut and bolt loosener
like liquid wrench or something like that and soak it good as mine were in
big time. Then you will have to remove the hold down screw and tweak
around on that end of it to get it to move in the hole to loosen it first
and then try to get it out. But remember this is a permanent magnet sensor
with a coil pickup, so if you hammer on it you risk damaging the magnet
or breaking it. So be careful if you decide to do it this way.
I did the passengers side first as it is the easier of the two.
There are three main suspension bolt junctions that we will be
disconnecting, I remove the first bolt that holds the suspension arm
at the end of the lower arm. I kept the bolt and nut in the lower arm
so as not to lose it.
NOTE: where ever possible on this job, as I removed a bolt or nut
I then put it back into the piece that it came out of which
saved a lot of bagging and tagging.
These bolts are 17mm and 19mm
The next of the three is the lower arm where it connects to the
crossmember, and last but not least the bolt that holds the strut
rod to the chassis.
Now since we are doing the passengers side first, it is time to remove
the large ring clip that holds the axle shaft bearing in place.
I just took a screw driver and pushed on the end of the tang on the ring
and got it started out, as soon as you get it past a certain point it
just pops off. It is equally easy to put back too.
This then frees up the shaft to be removed from the transmission, but
not just yet.
Now I positioned one of my transmission jacks under the brake rotor
using a piece of foam rubber about 2 inches thick and large enough to
cover the top table of the jack. Now jack up the table of the jack
to take a slight strain on the assembly. Now remove the remaining
nuts holding the strut assembly on the upper part of the strut tower.
This will release the weight of the assembly to the jack.
Now comes the fun part, at the same time you start to lower the jack
you will start to pull the axle shaft out of the transmission, and
pull the transmission jack out away from the car, yes, it is a fun
balancing act but believe me it is much easier to take out than
get in, but not that bad.
So you are lowering the jack, and then pulling it out away from the
car guiding the shaft out of the transmission being careful not to
hit anything with the machined end of the shaft and just guide it
on out, you can stop for a second and regain your balance and rest
the shaft on the large shaft bearing stay and then bring it on out.
Then roll the whole assembly over to your large foam pad and lay it
down so that there is no strain on the CV joints. You may also want
to have a small cut piece of foam pad to prop up the CV joint to
level it. Then I used another jack stand to prop up the strut so
that the oil would not leak out.
There, that wasn't too bad, was it? :)
While the assembly is out you will want to do some cleaning, I used
Kano Labs Aerokroil on the metal parts, and Kano Labs Parteze on the
rubber parts and boots. I used a small paint brush dipped in the
Parteze to clean up the boots, balljoint boot, swaybar stabilizer link
boots and so on.
OK, now you are ready to pull out the drivers side strut assembly.
This one is different in that you are going to have to hammer on the
axle shaft to get it out.
So you are going to follow basically the same procedure as you did
on the passengers side strut assembly, position your transmission jack
with foam pad under the disk brake rotor and disconnect the three main
suspension pieces.
Once they are disconnected then make sure you have disconnected the
brake line and the ABS sensor, how ever you decided to do it.
And of course remove the three nuts at the top of the strut tower that
hold the shock assembly in place.
Find your 1 inch by 1 inch by about 2 foot long piece of oak and a
hammer. Now, position it carefully so that you do not damage the
softer bearing seal cover piece. Position the wood on the meat of
the CV joint. You will have to be on the passengers side of the
joint with the force going towards the drivers side.
After you have carefully positioned the wood then give it some
good whacks, and then go back around and check to see of you
freed it yet. You will be able to tell, as you will be able to pull
it out. So whack it, check it, and then do this until it comes out.
After you free it, then be very careful as on the passengers side so
that you do not damage the bearing seal. Don't drag the weight of
After pulling it out then hold on to the CV joint so as not to
the larger floor jack up. This way if the floor jack bleed down
the stock jack would then take the weight and not allow it to
loose the load. This worked fine as the problem with using the
second transmission jack I had was that its foot print is large
enough to get in the way of the other transmission jack holding
the transmission.
Now we are getting ready to remove the front engine mount and the
clutch slave cylinder. So position your transmission jack so that
the jack is all the way over on the drivers side, you want to get
to the balance point of the transmission which is over on the short
stubby end of it, away from the bell housing end that covers the
clutch assembly itself.
This way, when you get ready to pull the transmission off, if you
have it balanced right is will really just almost fall off.
Also position what jack you are going to use to hold the engine up.
NOTE: these will have to be two separate jacks
You will also at or about this point want to remove the transmission
control cables. You will basically do this just before you get ready
to remove the clutch release cylinder.
Again, as for those that have to deal with the stock exhaust pipe
it will not be able to be removed completely until the cross member
is lowered and removed. I would think that probably the easiest
way to have to deal with it would be to remove the crossmember first
and then deal with the stock exhaust, and then remember to put it
back inplace, before you reinstall the crossmember.
I used a piece of foam rubber on the top table of the transmission jack
so as not to mar up the transmission and also used the tie down belt
on the jack to help hold the transmission in place on the jack.
the attaching bolts go. This cooling pipe has a rubber hose in
then the pipe, which is metal, and then a rubber hose on the out side.
The pipe piece has two flanges on it for bolts, and one of them is
not mention by the BGB. So you have no way of knowing, going into
this that there is a 7th bolt that holds the transmission on.
Not just the six that are shown in the picture in the book.
This seventh bolt is located just to the right side of the hole
where the starter mounts. But if you follow the coolant hose
around, to the metal piplet piece and then over to the right to
where this seventh bolt holds it, you will find it.
Once you have all of the bolts out, and you make sure that you have
the transmission jack at the balance point on the transmission
then all you need to do is to either lower it or raise it slightly
which ever is required and then ease it off. If it is anything like
mine was, it will almost fall right off. Mine came off very easily
with almost no effort at all.
Once you have the transmission off, then lower it and pull it out
from under the car.
NOTE: make sure that you watch out for that one coolant hose when
you lower down the transmission, it will tend to hang up on
the lip of the transmission case.
It will also give you fits when you put the transmission back
I used a 450 ft.lb impact wrench which did quite nicely.
If you don't happen to have an air impact wrench there are electric
ones that will work also, and there are many rent-a-tool places that
you could rent one for a day, as it only takes a very few minutes
to take the bolts off. In fact I had mine off in less than one minute.
Once the bolts are off, then remove the old fly wheel and set it aside.
Now you will want to do some checking and clean up work.
Check the rear main seal over good and make sure that it is not
leaking. Mine looked great, so I put some of my special grease on
it and left it alone. If you need to change it the best way to do
it is to remove the plate from the engine and then take the seal
out of the plate, put in a new seal, and then put the plate back on
the engine.
Also check and clean up the transmission. Check the two main shaft
seals, and change them if you need to.
Clean up the transmission, the fork boot and clean the inside
bell housing.
You will want to pull the fork off the ball pivot bolt and replace
touches the throw out bearing, and where the push pin of the slave
cylinder pushes on the fork.
Also be very careful if you are going to replace the seals.
The surface where the seal seats can easily be damaged.
NOTE ON REASSEMBLY:
if you do decide to install a new flywheel, make sure that you
drive the three new pins in FIRST before you install the flywheel
back on the engine.
NOTE ON PINS: The stock height of the pins when they are driven in
is 0.400 or 400 thousandths inch. I used a mike to
check the height to make sure that they were within
.002 of each other.
DO NOT JUST whack the pins back in as they can be
driven in too far.
When reinstalling the flywheel, take extra time to make sure that
the mating surface on the rear of the flywheel, and the mounting point
on the engine rear main is clean. There can not be any dirt or anything
on the mating surfaces. This will cause the flywheel to seat at an
angle, and will cause the clutch to shutter when it engages.
So take extra time to make sure that these mating surfaces are clean.
When you get ready to reinstall the flywheel then mount it up on the
engine rear and line up the 8 holes so that the bolts will go in.
Use a liberal amount of BLUE thread locker on the bolts and screw them
in finger tight. Then in the book Vol one, on page EG-175 shows the
NOTE: in torquing the flywheel, here is what I did to keep it
from moving, if you notice the engine block before the
flywheel is up in place then you will see that at about
the one o'clock position there is an indentation in the block
nut, then an O-ring, plastic sleeve, copper contact and stud.
Again make note how the pieces fit together before you take it all
apart.
NOTE: take special care when tightening the contacts down an do not
over tighten, also it is very important that the inside contacts
set level so that then the solenoid plunger copper ring
is pulled down to make contact on the face of the side contacts
that it hits them flat, otherwise it will hit on the edge.
If it hits on the edge then this will prematurely wear out
the copper ring on the plunger.
Since the copper contact is square then you can adjust it with
a wrench after you have tightened down the nut that holds it
in place.
After you have properly installed the contacts then reinstall the top
cover.
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Marc Summers SysAdmin
NEC eLUMINANT Technologies Inc.
EMAIL TO: marcs@eLUMINANT.com
PH# 1-503-681-3338
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