Instructions On How To Install the TRD Short Shifter
Detailed Instructions On How To
Install the TRD Short Shifter On A
1993 MR2 Turbo
NOTE: Please make reference to page MX-65 in Vol2 of the BGB.
TOOLS USED:
#2 Phillips screw driver
small flat blade screw driver
12mm 3/8 drive socket
3/8 socket drive
short 3/8 extension
12mm openend/boxend wrench
small pair of slip joint pliers
torque socket drive wrench
(at least 25 ft.lb. of torque capacity
PARTS PURCHASED:
TRD Quick Shifter from Jeff Watson at Jay Marks Toyota
Call: 1-800-327-2087, ask for Jeff, and tell him you
are a member of the MR2 Internet club, and order:
PN# 00602-30301-006 cost $121.63 (List $139, nice savings)
(note: shipping for shifter was about $7)
Some good grade greese will be needed to grease up the
shift lever ball where it sets in the shift lever ball seat.
I happened to use a graphite based grease.
PROCEEDURE:
You will have to start by first removing the rear console cabinet.
This is done by removing four phillips head screws, two near the top
and two near the bottom, all four screws are inside, two top ones inside
the top cover lid, and two bottom ones inside the bottom section.
After removing these four screws, the rear console should just lift off.
Set the cabinet, and the screws aside for now.
Now we need to remove the center console trim cover. This is done by
removing four phillips head (covered screws), and two screws under the
shift boot trim piece.
First remove the shift knob by turning it until it comes off, it is simply
screwed down onto the shift lever shaft. If the boot cover sticks to it
then hold the boot cover where it meets the shift knob and you should be
able to just continue unscrewing the shift knob. Then carefully pop up
the boot cover. This is held on by four popup plastic inserts two on the
top side and to on the bottom, it should pull up (carefully) at the
bottom edge. Then you can pull up the shift boot plastic trim piece
meaning the piece that the boot was just attached to. This is a plastic
trim piece that holds the boot cover in place.
You should now be able to see the two remaining phillips head screws that
hold down the metal end of the center console trim.
To remove the four covered screws, first with a small flat blade screw
driver, pry off the plastic cap covers from the four phillips head
screws. there are two towards the rear, and down on near the end piece
of the colsole, on either side, and two on either side near the center
of the console, you may have to slide the seats forward or backward
in order to see the center ones. Pry up the plastic caps and then
remove the four phillips head screws, and set them aside for now.
Then remove the two remaining screws on the top metal piece that was under
the shift boot trim piece.
This should then allow the entire center console trim piece to be lifted
up and out. Set it aside for now along with the screws.
Now you should be able to see the shift lever, the connecting cables
and the shift lever retainer. The shift lever retainer is a tray like
heavy gauge metal piece that is held in place by four 12mm head bolts.
The bolts on mine were kind of a gold in color. But first you will need
to remove the two retaining clips that hold the shift cables in the
end of the shift lever retainer tray.
To do this I simply used a pair of slip joint pliers, and hooked one
jaw end on one side of the bottom tang of one of the clips, and
the other jaw at the top edge of the shift lever retainer tray.
Then squeezed and just started the clip up a bit, then pushed up the
other side of the clip in the same manner, this is to get it started.
I then slipped the jaws of the pliers closed, and grabbed the top
edge of the retainer clip and pulled it up, then proceed to remove the
other cable retainer clip in the same manner.
Now you are ready to free the cable ends, one is held in place on the
shift lever with a 12mm nut, using the 12mm socket and driver carefully
remove the nut from the cable end, I then screwed it back onto the
cable end so I would not lose it. That frees up one cable, then
using the pliers carefully pull up the small wire clip that retains the
end of the other cable, and also remove the small washer. Set these
aside for now.
Now see where the two outside cable runs, connect to the shift lever
retainer tray, these outside cable runs are held in place by two
plastic clips, using the pliers, carefully squeeze the clip and release
each cable from the side of the shift lever retainer tray.
Now you can remove the four 12mm head bolts that hold the shift lever
retainer tray down in place. Using the 12mm socket and drive remove the
four bolts and set them aside for now.
Now you will be able to pull up on the shift lever retainer tray and
release it from the cables. You will have to bring up the back end
first, at the same time pushing back on the cables and lifting the
shift lever retainer tray up and out.
You will want to carry this assembly over to a work area so that you
can get at it easier, and hold it down to remove the bolts.
As you can see there are now four bolts two that have nuts welded to
the bottom of the shift lever retainer tray, and two that have nuts
and washers on them. Using the 12mm socket and drive, and a 12mm
wrench, remove the two bolt/nut combination bolts, and then using
the 12mm socket and drive remove the other two bolts.
Don't worry about the shim and the snap ring when they pop off
I will tell you how to put them back on in the reassembly.
Now to finish removing the shift lever itself, you will see a torsion
spring, you will need to spread it apart and at the same time
free the bottom shift lever plastic bushing from the slecting
bellcrank lever.
Now you will be able to lift the shift lever and shift lever ball seat
assembly out of the shift lever plate cup.
This is going to get a little greasy, so you may want to have a rag
handy at this point. Now you should also see that there is a rubber
seat bushing setting in the bottom of the shift lever plate cup
leave that in the bottom of the cup.
Now comes the only fun part, getting the shift lever ball seat off
the end of the ball, I just used both thumbs on one side of it
and pushed and popped it off. You may have to use a small screw driver
and pry it off but be careful not to break it.
Now the old stock shift lever should be free and clear.
Don't forget the snap ring and the shim, you will now need to slide
these on to the end of the new TRD shift lever, but from the bottom up
as the new TRD lever where the cable attaches is too wide to allow
the shim to slide down from the top. Do this now before you forget
or you will wind up having to pull the shift lever out of the
shift lever ball seat again like I did. The shim goes on first and then
the snap ring, so that the snap ring is on the bottom when it is
reassembled. See the assembly diagram in the book, page MX-65
We are ready to start reassembly now, and start by putting some grease
on the shift lever ball, and then pushing it into the shift lever ball
seat. It should push down and snap into place.
Then you can put that assembly into the shift lever plate cup making
sure that the rubber bushing is in the bottom of the cup, then slide
the snap ring down onto the shift lever ball seat and slide the shim
down in place, this combination will tend not to stay in place so
you will need to adjust it later when you get ready to screw the
assembly back together.
I also put a lot of grease down inside the shift lever plate cup so
that the shift lever ball has plenty of grease for a smooth operation.
I also greased up the end bushing, where it fits into the selecting
bellcrank lever, then spread apart the torsion spring and slide
the end bushing into the selecting bellcrank lever, and make sure that
the torsion spring has one end on either side of the tang that is
on the end of the shift lever plate cup.
After this assembly is in place then you are ready to screw the
shift lever plate cup back down using the four bolts, remember that
two of the bolts have their nuts welded to the bottom of the
shift lever retainer tray, and the other two have nuts and washers.
Carefully line up the shift lever assembly and slide it up in place
on the shift lever retainer tray, and position it so that you can
start the bolts, loosely screw in the bolts and then check the
position of the shim and snap ring, make sure that they are position
properly before you tighten down the four bolts.
Then torque these bolts down the torque spec on the bolt/nut combination
is 9 ft.lbs. and the torque on the other two bolts with the nuts welded
into the bottom of the tray is 14 ft.lbs.
After torquing down the bolts check the shift lever for action, making
sure it is smooth and well greased, if you need to put on more grease
then do it now. Wipe off any excess grease.
You are now ready to put the shift lever retainer tray back into the car
bring it over to the car and slide the two cables in the end of the tray
and then position the tray and set it down in place.
Now find the four retaining bolts, and screw them down in place there is
no specific torque spec given for these bolts, so for a bolt of this type
with a rubber bushing, approx. 10 ftlbs or less would be recommended.
You can now reattach the cable retaining clips, push them down as far as
you can, and then with the end of the screw driver, or with a plastic
tip mallet, tap them down in place.
Now reconnect the cable ends, one with the small retaining clip and washer
and the other with the nut. The nut has a torque spec of 10 ft.lbs.
You can now press in the clutch and check the action of the shift lever.
making sure that it is smooth. If there is any problem you will need
to take care of it now before finishing the final assembly of the trim.
If the operation of the shift lever is OK, then proceed putting together
the remainder of the console trim and shift boot trim and rear console
cabinet.
Position the center console trim and then screw it down using 6 phillips
head screws, two in the top metal strip, and two on either side
two center, and two rear. The two center and two rear screws get plastic
trim covers. Snap the plastic trim screw covers in place.
Place the rear center console cabinet in place and using the four
phillips head screws, two at the top, and two at the bottom, screw
down and secure the cabinet.
Then snap in place the boot retainer trim piece, and then snap down
in place the boot over the shift lever. Now screw on the new TRD
shift knob, or perhaps a new knob of your choice.
Again, press in the clutch, and check the action of the new shifter
then clean up and take your baby out for a spin. :)
From: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com (Marc Summers)
Subject: TRD shifter instructions translated...
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 3:54:08 PDT
I had one of our Japanese managers translate the sheet of instructions that comes with the
TRD shifter.
<>
33530-SW200
for MR2(SW20 all year-model)
Quick shift lever set
Installation/users manual
Thank you for purchasing this TRD quick shift lever set.
This manual shows how to install/use and cautions.
Please make sure to read it before installation and use the
set properly.
If you are a dealer, please give this manual with the set to the customer.
- Part Number and applicable car model (only for manual transmission type)
- Part # : 33530-SW200
- Applicable car model:
- model name: MR2
- model #: SW20
- year: all year-model
- Parts included (Please check the contens before installation)
- #1: Shift lever sub assembly, x1,
Shift-stroke is about 20% shorter then standard lever of the model
since 01/92; about 30% shorter then standard lever of the model between
10/89-12/91.
- #2: Shift knob, x1, round-shape type
- #3: This manual, x1
- Caution about installation
- (1) Installation should be done by a service station.
- (2) During installation, you should refer to the maintenance
manual of the car issued by the car manuaucturer Toyota, as
well as this manual.
- (3) Do not take this parts apart or process them additionally.
Doing this may cause any damage or accident of car.
- (4) Do not apply this parts to the other car model. Doing this may
cause any damage or accident of car.
- How to install
(1) To detach parts around console box
Referring to the figure, detach the rear-console-box, the console-box-sub-
assembly, and the shift-lever-assembly.
Caution: detaching of the console-upper-panel-sub-assembly should be done
from back-side.
<< Page 2>>
(2) To detach the standard shift-lever-sub assembly
Reffering to the figure, detach the shift-lever-plate-sub-assembly.
At first, detach shaft snap ring, then detach shift-lever-sub-assembly
from the ball sheet.
(3) To attach the quick-shift-lever-sub-assembly
With reverse sequence of (2), attach the quick-shift-lever-sub-assembly.
- If the car model is between 10/89 and 12/91, before attaching it is
necessary to remove shifting-hole-cover-stopper from the quick-shift-
lever-sub-assembly.
- Caution: Make sure to put grease properly between the quick-shift-lever-
sub-assembly and the ball sheet.
(4) To attach the console box
With reverse sequence of (1), attach the rear-console-box and the console-
box-sub-assembly.
(5) To attach the shift-knob
Attach the shift-knob included in the set to the quick-shift-lever-sub-
assembly.
- Caution after installation and use
- (1) After installation, before driving the car, please make sure
to double-check gear-change action to all gear position.
- (2) If you find any anomally during driving, stop immediately and
have the car checked by a service station.
- (3) With using this quick-shift-lever some vibration of the lever
may occur, for the lever is designed to increase more quick
gear-change action than comfortablilty.
- Contact location for question about this product
Toyota techno craft, Inc.
TRD section
800 Shioka-cho, Kohoku-ku
Yokohama, Kanagawa, 222
Phone: 045-540-2121
Fax: 045-540-2122
--
Email: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com
1993 MR2T with a ton of mods :)