Detailed Instructions To Upgrade Your Exhaust
(and keep the DEQ happy too)
(and do it all with no welding)
NOTE: that the total cost of this project for parts and one tool
is approx. $491 Now the cost of this, up to $200 or more can be
defered depending on specifically how you choose to put it
together, the parts used, and the insulation used to wrap the
pipe in the critical place under the oil pan, or if you choose
to wrap more of the pipe, it could cost a little more.
Some may also choose to have the pipes Jet Hot coated which of
course will cost a little more.
I happend to choose the more expensive route due to the better
quality of the parts used, expecially the Cotronics insulation
which will really keep the temperture down in the critical place
just under the oil pan and next to the axle bearing.
NOTE: also, even though this project at first appears to be somewhat
expensive, once implemented, it allows you a great deal of
flexability in the future modification of the exhaust system.
Also it makes it very easy to remove if necessary.
But of course, most of all, it allows the engine to breath much
better than before, and it will reward you with additional
HP output.
WARNING: this mod will raise your boost pressure by 1.2 to 1.4 psi
if you are already running boost pressure at above 15 psi
make sure that you have some way to check and reset boost
pressure BEFORE making a full boost run which in some cases
may cause some engine damage.
Tools Used:
1/2 inch chuck, power drill
7/16 inch drill bit
can of spray lube to spray on the drill bit
hack saw, or jewlers saw
NOTE: jewlers saw from the Techni-tool catalog
PH# 1-800-832-4866
jewlers saw frame PN: 846SA010 $13.20
jewlers saw blades PN: 846SA018 $2.65/pak of 12 blades
NOTE: the Techni-tool catalog, has a great number of high quality tools
and speciality tools, the catalog is well worth getting.
URL: www.techni-tool.com
9/16 box end wrenches
pair of sissors
prefered: exhaust and tailpipe cutter JC Whit. # 83-0838 really excellent
12mm deep socket 1/2 drive
1/2 drive 8 inch extension
1/2 drive 18 inch breaker bar
3/8 drive torque wrench that goes to at least 43 foot pounds
3/8 -> 1/2 drive adapter
10mm socket 1/4 drive
1/4 drive socket wrench
1/4 drive 3 inch extension
Parts Purchased:
Small roll of #19 copper wire (also note: there are available ties made
of stainless steel from the Summit catalog
locking ties PN: DEI-010202 14 inch ties)
Sheet of 180 grit sand paper
I had the bolts, you will need 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch bolts about
3 to 4 inches long. you will need to check and measure the stock
shock mount points for the exhaust system, as the bolts will go through
those shock mounts, and one of them will need to be at least 4 inches
long as some washers are used in a stack to stand off on of the mount
points. See the pictures for details.
Summit Catalog:
Borla 16 inch Sportsman Muffler 2.5 inch in/out $129.69
NOTE: many other mufflers can be used, I chose to use the
Borla, it is a very good muffler, and is all stainless
steel construction.
Borla Stainless Muffler Clamps 2.5 inch BOR18250 $8.50/ea
Walker Stainless Steel Exhaust Band Clamps 2.5 inch WLK35979 $8.50/ea
NOTE: you need 3 of the Borla muffler clamps, and 5 of the Walker
band clamps.
Borla round tip 2.5 inch BOR20104 $31.95
(NOTE: this piece is optional if you want to use just the pipe end)
Hooker Reducer HOK11040 3inch to 2.5 $19.50
(note: the hooker reducer does not come with a gasket so you can ask
Summit if you can get a gasket for it through them, or you can
get one at most any locak performace auto shop, or from the
JC Whitney catalog.)
Hooker Mandrel Bent 180 2.5 inch 5 inch radius 12 inch legs
HOK12270 $17.95
JC Whitney catalog:
90 degree Mandrel bend 2.5 inch 81KP2968Y 12 inch leg length 5 inch
radius. Cost $11.49
Muffler and tail pipe cut off tool 83KP0838T $23.99
(NOTE: I prefered this to a hack saw, it is an excellent
cutter, and is quite fast too.)
Stainless Steel Flex Pipe 2.5 inch 24KP1685R $32.98
(NOTE: this is really an excellent pipe, very well constructed
and quite easy to work with.)
Multi position exhaust hanger 37KP7264B get three $2.49
Cotronics Catalog:
Cotronics Corp
3379 Shore Parkway
Brooklyn N.Y. 11235
PH: 1-718-646-7996
FAX 1-718-646-3028
cotronics 375 thermal stop metalized strips PN: 375FT-3 $19.95
cotronics 390 ultra temp ceramic tape PN: 390.83 $20.75
cotronics high temp pressure sensitive tape PN:397PS 3"X50' $53.75
NOTE: also available in the Summit catalog is a thermal shield
tape PN: THE-14002 1.5 inch wide 15 foot roll $14.25
NOTE: as far as the insulation goes, you have many options, I chose
to go with the Cotronics products because they have superior
thermal insulation characteristics.
Example 1/2 inch thickness of Cotronics 375 insulation will
reduce a hot side temp of 1650 degrees to less than 400 cold side
degrees, and the outer coat of the 390 tape reduces it even more.
This reduces the temp. sufficiently to be able to use an aluminum
tape on the outside for protection.
Aluminum tape purchased from my local Home Depot store
Nashua PN: 324A 2.5 inch wide aluminum duct wrap tape
NOTE: do not use duct tape for this.
There are several other options for using the insulation, and the type
of insulation that you use. There are header blankes available in the
Summit catalog and in the JC Whitney catalog. I chose to use the
Cotronics insulation, it is a little more expensive but I think worth
the additional cost to keep the temperture down in that critical area.
But as I said there are many options, and you can mix and match as
you see fit, you do not have to do this exactl as I have.
You can also mix and match on the muffler if you choose, again you do
not have to use the more expensive Borla muffler.
From Catco:
Catco Creek
Summerville, Alabama
1-800-275-5116
COD only
Universal CAT Unit, PN: BC-4336 $45.26 COD only
Removal Instructions Of Old Exhaust:
I am including a lot of pictures with this article so you can see
in the pictures that I had to wind up cutting the old pipe out.
I have a picture that shows all of the old pieces so you can see
where I cut the main pipe.
NOTE: in order to cut the pipe where I did, I had to remove the outer
heat shield cover, using a lot of Aerokroil spray, or what ever
you happen to have, using a 10mm socket wrench, remove all of the
10mm bolts and then remove the shield cover.
The problem is that the only way to get the old exhaust pipe out
intact is to lift up the car, more than 2 feet off the floor, and
I for one just do not have any way to do this, so I just cut it in two
at a convinent location, and pulled it out.
Of course this is after I removed the three nuts, on the bottom of the
Primary CAT and then also removed the two bolts after the end of the
secondary CAT, this loosens up the primary pipe piece, I then moved
it into a convinient position and with the exhaust and tail pipe cutter
that I purchased from J.C. Whitney, I cut the pipe in two.
There is a little trick to using this tail pipe cutter, it only has to
be moved through about 30 to 40 degrees of arc, which makes it really
easy to use in a tight place. And I found it very fast it only took
a couple of minutes to cut the pipe in half.
After cutting the old pipe in half then remove it and set it aside
for disposal.
Then remove the remainder of the old exhaust system. Since I did not
have the original exhaust system (after the secondary CAT) in place
at this time, then I can not give specific instructions on how to
remove the remainder of the muffler and pipes. It should be apparent
and fairly obvious.
Preping the Hooker Header Collector:
The hooker header collector has to have the three holes drilled out.
These holes will need to be drilled out to a 7/16 inch hole, now you can
do this all in one step, or make several steps using asending drill
sizes until you get to the proper size of 7/16.
The reason for drilling out the holes is to make it fit properly on
the odd ball sized stock fitting on the bottom of the Primary CAT.
After drilling out the holes on the hooker header collector, then
take it out to the car, and check for proper fit on the bottom of the
primary CAT. Then using the gasket you got from your local auto parts
shop, then install the header collector/reducer on the bottom of the
primary CAT and torque the bolts down to there proper spec of 43 ft lbs.
Measuring And Cutting The Flex Hose:
The flex hose is a spiral wrap hose, and is a little tricky to cut
The best thing I found to cut it was a jewlers saw that has a .008 thick
blade, but if all you have is a hack saw, then that will do.
NOTE: given the spiral design of the flex hose, it is a little odd to
cut, use of the jewlers saw helps in this respect in that it
allows the blade to cut only that small portion of the metal
right at the seam of the flex hose.
Also important, when you finally get the cut all the way around
and are ready to cut the rib, the jewlers saw blade being only
.008 thick, allows it to turn easily and cut down through the
rib piece of the hose, and makes for a very clean cut.
But first we are going to have to position and then measure the flex
hose. So first slip the flex hose in place under the car, and thread
it through the space in between the cross member. Then slide the end of
it on the hooker head collector, it should stay in place, if not then
you can use one of the band clamps to secure it.
After you have done this then bend the flex hose over the cross member
and then back, look at the pictures of how mine is installed, and you
will see how much of a bend you can put in the flex hose. The flex
hose has enough of a radius so that it will line up so that the
Catco CAT will fit in place. Again look at the picture of how it
is placed so that you can get a good idea of what it should look like.
Now you will want to position the flex hose so that you can put on the
U clamp (not a band clamp) that will hold the flex hose where the stock
shock mount is located on the cross member.
NOTE: for those that may have the vibration dampner in place, you will
have to remove it inorder to do this work with out it getting
in the way.
Now take one of the exhaust hangers, and either with a hack saw or
with a jewlers saw, (like I used) then cut the end of it off.
The cut wants to be after the last hole in the metal band flat piece
just before where the rivet and the rubber piece starts.
What we are going to do with this is to connect it to one of the
exhaust U clamps, (not the band clamp) and then over to the stock
shock mount point and bolt it in place with a bolt, two washers and
a nut.
After cutting the exhaust hanger, then using a vice and a pair of
pliers, twist the flat metal piece so that the ends are about 90 degrees
out to each other, you will need to adjust this some, to get the proper
position.
After accomplishing this, then using one of the exhaust U clamps
slide it up in place on the flex hose, and using a bolt two washers
and a nut, bolt one end through the stock rubber mount point
and bolt the other over to the exhaust clamp, and then screw the nut
down on the clamp.
Do not tighten it just yet, so that you can position the pipe so
that it does not hit the cross member, and so that it doesn't hit
the sway bar.
NOTE: the full rigidity of this setup will not
be realized at this time, until the remainder of the CAT and the
U pipe are put up in place, so don't worry right now that it looks
like it will hit the cross member or the sway bar, because it won't.
Now center the flex pipe, and tighten up the exhaust U clamp and the
bolt on the stock shock mount.
Now bend the flex pipe over (look at my pictures) and get it ready to
mark for the Catco CAT.
Measuring and mounting the CAT:
NOTE: I used some 180 grit sand paper to smooth out all of the pipe
joints, this is important to do to keep the flow from being
disrupted. You want the exhaust flow as free flowing and
smooth as possible.
Now you are ready to hold the Catco secondary CAT up in place so that
you can measure the flex pipe to cut it.
Remember at this point, the U 180 bend pipe will have to go in here also
so take a good look at the pictures of my install and see about where
the parts are going to line up. Now to couple these two pieces together
the flex hose and the second CAT we are going to use a cut off piece
from the U piece the 180 mandrel bend piece. There will be more than
sufficient length in the 180 mandrel bend piece to supply a coupling
piece for the CAT to the flex hose. If you want, at this point you could
cut a four inch piece off one leg of the U pipe and use it to couple
together the flex hose and the second CAT.
I used the stainless steel band clamps, as they make for a very wide
and complete coupling and also make an excellent seal.
After you have cut the 4 inch piece from the U 180 mandrel bend
then fit it in place, (make sure that you observe the inlet and outlet
on the CAT, it is clearly marked with an arrow to the outlet side)
then slide in the coupling piece and using the band clamp, then clamp
the piece, but only just temperarily for now. As we are getting this
piece positioned so that we can get the other pieces cut propery and
then placed and properly postioned.
Once the CAT is in place, take another look at the pictures, and see
how it is positioned. This positioning is important, so that it doesn't
hit anything.
Measuring and cuting the U 180 mandrel bend:
now we are ready to measure to length and cut the mandrel bend U piece.
Take another good look at the pictures, and then position the U piece
up in place, and measure for the cut. Then when you have it, using the
exhaust and tail pipe cutter, cut it to length. You will want to use
some of the 180 grit sand paper to smooth out the cut edge, so that the
pieces will fit together better. After cutting the piece then using
another of the band clamps, slide the end of the U mandrel bend piece
into the outlet of the CAT and clamp it in place.
Now find the other exhaust hanger, and you will want to cut the end off
allowing for 3 or four holes, this metal piece with the holes in it will
be used, one end clamped to the stock exhaust shock mount, with a bolt
and then down to another exhaust U clamp (not a band clamp) to the U
180 mandrel bend piece. Take a look at the pictures and see what this
piece looks like.
After cuting the exhaust hanger piece, then using a 1/4 to 5/16 bolt
4 inches long or so, and I also, as you can see in the picture, used
some washers to space over the metal hanger piece. This allows it to
line up with the exhaust clamp, which will be positioned on the U
mandrel bend piece. Position the stainless steel exhaust clamp and
then clamp up that end of the U 180 mandrel bend piece.
As you will now begin to see, the remainder of the pieces, mainly
the CAT will be quite rigid, of course depending on how tight you have
the band clamps. Remember at this point I did not fully tighten the
clamps, as I am allowing for adjustments, and moving so that everything
can be properly positioned in place first.
Measuring and cutting the L and positioning the muffler:
Now you will be ready to position the muffler, and the L 90 degree piece
up in place so that you can position them to cut the other end of the
U 180 mandrel piece, and the L 90 degree angle piece to position for the
pipe tail piece.
Or, if you choose, you do not have to purchase the tail piece and just
use the pipe end for exhaust.
The way to approach this, or the way I would do it, first look again
at the pictures, and see where the Borla muffler is positioned. You may
or may not want to position it exactly in that position.
Also note in the pictures, the L piece that goes to the tail pipe from
my setup, is welded to the the end of the Borla muffler. This was done
some time before I maded this mod so you will have to ignore that part.
But it shows approx. where the pieces need to be positioned before
cutting the pipe.
What will be done is position and measure the L piece, and then cut the
the end that will insert into the Borla muffler. Then using another
band clamp, clamp it in place, then using another exhaust hanger
fashion a piece like the other that you just put on the U pipe it will
combine a piece of the exhaust hanger, a bolt, and a U clamp exhaust
clamp and use these pieces to clamp the L piece up in place.
This will hold the piece so that you can measure for cutting the other
end of the U 180 mandrel bend piece. Then measure and cut the 180 U
bend mandrel piece and using another band clamp, insert the U end in
the Borla muffler, and clamp it inplace.
Now you should see the entire system taking shape. Now if you are going
to use the Borla tip, then measure and cut the L mandrel piece and
cut it and insert the tip onto the end and you can either use a band
clamp for this or use a U exhaust clamp. I would suggest using the band
clamp at it makes for a better seal.
Now if you haven't, position everything, and tighten all of the clamps
down good, the band clamps should be sufficiently tight that you can see
the joint through the band clamp. It will under pressure, sort of form
itself to the joint making for a good seal.
Once you have everything tighten down, then check that the entire pipe
and all of the pieces are rigid, and are not hitting anything.
Take another good look at the pictures and see that everything is
positioned properly. There should be sufficient clearance between
the bottom of the cross member and the sway bar.
NOTE: at this point, I (hit with my fist) the flex pipe where it
runs by the axle bearing. This will push it over a inch or so
more out of the way of the bearing, and give you a little more
room when installing the insulation.
Application of the Insulation:
I will explain how I put on the insulation using the Cotronics insulation
and a roll of copper wire, or the cotronics 397PS pressure tape.
I did not have any of the Summit stainless steel ties.
The choice is basically yours. In this case I would use the cotronics
397PS tape, for this and then use the stainless steel ties or the
copper wire for the application of the outer coating of the cotronics
390 ultra temp tape.
First I crawled under the car, and again checked the position of the
flex pipe, I pressed it over a little, so that it was a little further
away from the passengers side axle bearing.
I then measured and cut strips of the Cotronics type 375 insulation with
the aluminum backing OUT and cut a piece such that it would just fit
around the flex pipe. I also put one piece around the top part of the
hooker header flange reducer.
NOTE: when applying the Cotronics 375 insulation, try not to press it
or mash it down much, if at all possible, you want to retain
as much of its original thickness as possible.
After measuring and cutting the first piece of insulation, then I
positioned it and either using the cotronics 397PS tape or copper wire
tape or wire the insulation in place. Continue this process until the
stainless steel flex hose is covered all the way back to the cross
member. Now I did not choose to cover the pipe past that point but
again, if you choose, you can cover it all the way to the second CAT
if you want to.
After you have finished with this operation then we are ready to apply
the Cotronics 390.83 ultra high temp tape. This is not a tape in that
it has an adhesive on it, but is used for an outer protective wraping
and further insulation.
So apply the Cotronics 390.83 ultra high temp tape, again either using
the Cotronics 397PS adhesive tape, or using copper wire, or if you choose
you could use the stainless steel ties, but as the ties are rather
expensive by comparison then I decided to use copper wire.
Again cover the same area, remember this is a protective outer layer
for the Cotronics 375 insulation.
I cut the pieces of this outer layer cover so that they just overlapped
by about a half inch or so.
Now, you say, "how are we going to seal the ends up?" Well this is how
What I would suggest now is, purchase extra Cotronics 397PS tape to seal
the ends. You want to wrap the ends well with this tape, and then if
further hold is required, and I would suggest doing so, apply more
copper wire at these points, or use some of the stainless steel ties
from Summit.
Once the ends are sealed, then we are going to use the aluminum tape
the Nashua 324A which is 2.5 inches wide and wrap and seal the outside
of the insulation. This aluminum tape should be kept away from the pipe
and clamp piece on the hooker header coupler, as these areas are going
to be hotter than the adhesive on the tape can stand.
Use the aluminum tape, and seal the entire length of the insulation.
This will keep the insulation from getting wet and dirty.
Once this is done, then check your work, and see if you need to adjust
any of the clamps, or position of any of the parts or pipes.
Again, there are several other options for application of insulation
to the pipe, especially in the area of the oil pan and the axle bearing
where the temp. needs to be kept down and no radiant heat.
One could choose, instead of wraping the pipe, apply the insulation
to the oil pan. But it would be better, operationaly to apply the
insulation to the pipe, so as to keep as much of the heat in the pipe
as possible. This will help the dynamics of the exhaust flow through
the pipe.
The Cotronics insulation, is really excellent in this respect, and
if sufficient layers were applied, the pipe, even though at its
operating temperture, would be cool to the touch on the outside.
But the Cotronics insulation is sufficiently protective such that the
outside temperture will be well below anything that will cause any
radiant heat damage to surrounding parts.
Now, you are ready to fire this puppy up, warm it up, and see how it
works. Understand now, that there will be smells, the tapes used and
the adhesives used will cause some smells as the tape heats up but
don't worry about it.
At this point I would drive the car, where you normally do, and check for
bumps, and things hitting, the system should be sufficiently rigid that
nothing will hit when you go over even large bumps.
I would then allow the exhaust to cool off, and go back and retighten
the clamps, making sure that everything is positioned properly and
that nothing is hitting the chassis, or the center point of the
cross member or sway bar.
