mr2-digest Tuesday, 9 January 1996 Volume 01 : Number 083 Security System Malfunction RE: 2nd gear part number Intercooler upgrades 95/96 MR2 questions... RE: Thermoelectric Intercooler RE: MkII Headlights oil MkII steel wheels for sale HKS FCD, GReddy Boost Cut Controller, Speed Cut Controller RE:light rheostat K&N Confusion K&N Filters AW11 and SW20 info alternator access Re: antenna in windshield Re: Gauges and rheostat Oxy sensor? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: uunet!idirect.com!mrtwo (Bill Chen) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 22:39:48 -0500 Subject: Security System Malfunction Well one of the features of the Factory alarm is to arm itself if the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. And of course to disarm the alarm after it has been activated is to unlock the door with the key otherwise the engine will not start. So it sounds to me like your alarm is working normally. For a more thorough description check your manual. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- |Bill Chen | |MrTwo@idirect.com | |36 Ingleborough Court Unionville, Ontario | |L3R 8M6 Canada | |(905) 946-1170 (416) 816-6135 | - ------------------Life begins at 150mph--------------------------- ------------------------------ From: Adrienne Mora Date: Tue, 09 Jan 1996 15:17:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: 2nd gear part number > 2nd gear is gone again. What I really need is the part number > for second gear. As we don't have this gear box here, parts are > few and far between. [snippity snip] Sean Did you find the info you were after? I haven't got your email address so couldn't reply directly ... if you need any help please contact me as here in NZ we can order JAPANESE market parts as well as NZ ones (that applies to anyone else after japanese only market things). Later Ade New Zealand AdeM@wairc.govt.nz '86 SC T-Top MR2 ....... M1STR 2 ------------------------------ From: uunet!interserv.com!kca Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 21:25:01 -0800 Subject: Intercooler upgrades I have been considering upgrading the intercooler on my 91 turbo, but I have reservations about just how much more efficient an aftermarket intercooler can be. As those of you that have been paying attention know, I have recently installed the TVVC and HKS FCD to increase boost. Will an aftermarket "high efficiency" intercooler really provide a significant increase in cooling? If so, how much? - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Also on a side note: The wire in the windshield _is_ for the AM antenna. I removed my 3-in-1 unit to send it in to the factory for a code reset and had to disconnect 2 antenna wires. One for the FM and one for the AM. While the stereo is out I plan to install something else with a CD changer control. Is anybody interested in purchasing my 3-in-1 stereo when (if?) I get it back? Hopefully I'll get a fully remanufactured unit in return. Kip Anderson 91 Turbo kca@interserv.com ------------------------------ From: uunet!alantec.com!trop (Troy Pummill) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 11:13:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: 95/96 MR2 questions... Hi All, I've read the FAQ and it seems that there isn't a 96 production year in available in the US for this fine auto. Unfortunate, I was really looking forward to obtaining an MR2 this year. So, does anyone know whether I can order one or if there were 95s available in CA last year? Also, I would greatly appreciate if someone would email me the outside dimensions of the 94/95 year (I have limited room in my garage which my 89 Corolla GTS fits into very well. I'm hoping that an MR2 will fill approximately the same footprint). Any info that you have would be appreciated. Please email directly to trop@alantec.com as I do not subscribe to the digest.... Thanks!! Troy - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- | Troy T. Pummill | trop@alantec.com | | Alantec Technical Support | Sr. Network Analyst | | (408) 467-4871 | 2115 O'Nel Drive, Silicon Gulch | | San Jose, CA 95131 | Fax: (408) 441-0272 | - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!AstonMrtn Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 00:34:22 -0500 Subject: RE: Thermoelectric Intercooler A while back, I posted some questions about cooling intake air...I was worried about cooling it TOO much and causing icing in the throttle body. At the time, I didn't want to mention HOW I was going to cool the air, as I was planning on applying for a patent on the idea...but hey, it turns out someone has beaten me to it! US Patent #5,385,020 describes what is basically a thermoelectric intercooler (in more broader terms, though). For those of you unfamiliar with Thermoelectric devices, they're a relatively new high-tech approach to cooling, and are used extensively to cool computer CPUs. Basically, you have a 1.5" square (or any other size really) pad, .125" thick. Apply a current to it, and one side becomes very hot, the other, cold. One pad alone can move close to 50 Watts of heat....which led me to the car intercooler idea. All you need is a heatsink in the intake tube (about 6-8 inches long, low restriction, fins pointing in direction of airflow), but with one side of it protruding outside of the tube, a few Thermoelectric devices (TECs) (about $35 each, may need 3-6), and a heatsink on the other side of the TECs - the 'hot' side. So now, the cold heatsink that all the engine's air is rushing past is very very cold, and the heat sink exposed to the atmosphere is very very hot (seal this hot one in a tube fed by an electric fan and it's even more efficient). Design the heatsinks well and you should be able to cool the intake air with minimal restriction ('course, if you have a turbo, who cares about restriction). Also, to get more cooling, you just add more TECs between the two heat sinks (they can even be mounted in series). A simple computer could even control each TEC individually as necessary, to maintan some preset air temperature at the throttle body. It'd only add a few pounds of weight, and should work much better than an air to air intercooler. I estimate it'd cost about $500 to build a good prototype with a powered fan cooling the 'hot' heat sink. The TECs can be tricky to find, though you could always go straight to the manufacturer, I guess - or if in CA, Fry's has them. So what do you all think? I'd appreciate some feedback on this idea.... ...has anyone seen TECs used on a car before? - -Matt '91 White NA astonmrtn@aol.com ------------------------------ From: Stuart Smith Date: Tue, 9 Jan 96 09:47:21 GMT Subject: RE: MkII Headlights >Like some of you on this list, I find the MkII's headlights to be anemic and >would like to change out to much higher than the US stock 65/35 watt sealed beam >units...but... > Find a pair of Hella H4's. They are great lights. As soon as one of my 93 >headlights goes, I am getting some H4's for replacements. The default wattage >is 65/55 (me thinks), and you can get replacement bulbs up to 100/80. Also, >if one burns out, you simply replace the bulb. Sorry I know this is an old post.. just back from New Year Hols. I've just ordered replacement H4s for my Mk1. To be honest I haven't checked they are semi-sealed beams or not yet. In the owners manual it talks about how to change bulbs in both. However, I used to have an old Escort (1983) and that had semi-sealed and every other car I've come across over here does too, so I've made the assumption that it's regulation in the UK. I'll keep you posted.. Anyway, point was, there are a couple of advertisers in MAX POWER magazine selling high power H4s: normal 55/60 4 each high 80/100 5 each super 90/130 5 each madbastard 100/160 6 quid each I ordered a pair of supers. I know they're ilegal over hear, but I don't know of anyone that's been stopped and asked to show his bulbs (finarr finarr). If it does happen, I'll plead inocence. Stu ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!CybrRacn54 Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:57:27 -0500 Subject: oil In a message dated 96-01-09 09:53:08 EST, you write: >I've noticed oil on the inside of the intake tubes just before the throttle >body and also seeping out a bit around the rubber hose connecting the intake >tube to the throttle body. Is this normal or suggesting a problem??? 93T >Happy Notes from the Short Family Frog Farm! >93T > > that's probably oil coming from the PCV (positivie crankcase ventilation). Some oil is normal. If it gets too excessive, check and see if your air filter is getting clogged. This causes too much vacuum in the intake tract. Gerald San Agustin 88 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: Eric Jones Date: Tue, 9 Jan 96 09:58:14 CST Subject: MkII steel wheels for sale I have a set of 4 steel wheels from a MkII for sale. These wheels are 6x14" & 7x14" and come with the wheel covers. I'm asking $150 for everything and this price includes shipping in the continental USA. Perfect for those of you in the NorthEast who could use some wheels for your snow tires! :-) eric - ---- Eric Jones edj@austin.mentorg.com '92 NA Aquamarine Pearl ------------------------------ From: uunet!diane.csg.mot.com!mikep (Mike Pittelkow) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:34:50 -0600 Subject: HKS FCD, GReddy Boost Cut Controller, Speed Cut Controller Anybody know what the adjustment on an HKS FCD is for? What's the difference between an HKS FCD, A GReddy Boost cut, and speed cut controller? Is the boost cut controller the same as the hks fcd? - -mike +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | mikep@diane.csg.mot.com | Email to mr2_faq_request@diane.csg.mot.com | +--------------------------+ with subject "FAQ" for a copy of the most recent| |1993 MR2Turbo #223 FRINGE1| MR2 FAQ. Suggestions to mr2@diane.csg.mot.com | +--------------------------+-------------------------------------------------+ | MR2 on the Internet: Because there's no speed limit on the infobahn. | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Motorola Cordless, Libertyville, IL 60089 (w)708-523-8273 (h)708-520-3783 | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------ From: "Christopher B Stell" Date: 09 Jan 1996 08:21:15 -0800 Subject: RE:light rheostat Geoff & John, The Rheostat in your MR-2 is functioning precisely in the manner in which it was intended to. The rheostat is in series with the instrument panel (IP) lights. The instrument panel lights are in parallel. When the IP lights are dim the voltage across the rheostat reads 12V because the rheostat resistance is at its highest, and therefore drops all the available voltage. Conversely, when the IP lights are bright, the rheostat is at its minimum resistance and therefore drops very little of the available voltage. To add additional lights that are controlled by the rheostat, simply find the two wires that connect to an existing IP light and connect the new light in parallel with the existing. If there is only one wire that is accessible, then chances are that the other wire is actually making its connection via the chassis. In that case you would connect one wire from your new light to the single wire on the existing light, then connect the other wire from your new light to a convenient grounding point on the chassis somewhere behind the IP. Good Luck Email me if you have problems: christopher.b.stell@jpl.nasa.gov Christopher B. Stell 4800 Oak Grove Drive Member of Tech. Staff Pasadena, CA 91109 Power Electronics Group NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory ------------------------------ From: uunet!diane.csg.mot.com!mikep (Mike Pittelkow) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:51:01 -0600 Subject: K&N Confusion All the K&N "reusable" filters I see in the K&N catalog are cotton/fiber filters, not paper. You can clean them all with mild detergents (they recommend dishwashing liquid, or their kit) but you MUST use filter oil, not WD-40. Filter oil has different adhesive qualities than lubricant oils. For those of you interested, a K&N RU-1500 filter will fit on the HKS powerflow adapter bracket for the MR2, and, according to HKS will flow significantly more air. They've got a really great catalog, by the way... - -mike ------------------------------ From: Charlie Reynolds Date: 09 Jan 96 12:50:56 EST Subject: K&N Filters - - -Matt '91 White NA writes... Paper filters like the K&N are very special...they use a coarse paper to reduce restriction, and a special oil to catch all the little particles you don't want in your engine... Sorry Matt, K&N filters are NOT paper. The big selling point is that they are a special COTTON weave which offers a lower pressure drop and hopefully cleans the intake air. BTW, I just cleaned my K&N filter after 25,000miles (driven in East Texas and Tennessee). It was really really dirty. K&N suggests cleaning every 50,000 miles, but after what I saw I'll be cleaning every 10,000 miles from here on. I think the low air intake on the MKIIs sucks up more dirt and grime than your typical car. Also, I agree, the K&N Recharger kit is worth the $10, its not much compared to a $20,000 car. Enjoy- Charlie Reynolds '92 Black NA 33,000miles ------------------------------ From: uunet!team17.com!Jelly (J Lomax) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 18:04:15 GMT Subject: AW11 and SW20 info Could anyone please clarify a few points for me... The AW11, I think I am correct in saying, is the US Mk1 with 4A-GELC engine. Please correct me if I am wrong. Could anyone explain which of the Mk 2 is the SW20? I have checked Matti Kalalahti's excellent pages already, but they do not mention the SW20 (as of yet!) Thanks in advance, Jelly ****************************************** Team 17 homepage: http://www.team17.com/ The Big Room - The multimedia division of Team 17 Software Ltd ****************************************** ------------------------------ From: "ROBERT C. SHAW" Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 12:50:00 -0600 (CST) Subject: alternator access I don't mean to insult anyone, but the people who have been talking about dismantling their mkIs to get the alternator out need to reevaluate the situation or ask someone who knows. A shop I trust in Baton Rouge pulled mine in no time flat. I traded the bad one in for a used one across town, and they put it back on the same day. $12 labor, $30 for the used alt. with the trade in (including a 30 day guarantee) Bobby 85na ------------------------------ From: uunet!aol.com!KipAnderso Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 15:02:16 -0500 Subject: Re: antenna in windshield >That is a "diversity antenna" system. If you look at the back of the radio, >there are actually two antenna inputs. The system is supposed to combat FM >multipath distortion. Alright, color me ignorant, but where is the AM antenna? If the antenna in the windshield is a "diversity antenna", where did you find this information? Having recently removed and completely torn appart my 3-in-1 deck in an effort to reset the security code (I wasn't able to), I did not see anything inside the case that would qualify as an AM coil antenna. Kip Anderson PLEASE DIRECT REPLIES TO: kca@interserv.com, I will be cancelling my "way too unreliable" AOL account very soon. ------------------------------ From: uunet!softy.softwords.bc.ca!geoff Date: Tue, 9 Jan 96 12:06:53 PST Subject: Re: Gauges and rheostat Sorry guys, I forgot the one piece of important information that shows the problem I ran into with this... The aftermarket boost gauge has the following wires and requirements: black - common ground red - 12v regardless of the ignition (for electronics) white - 12v when ignition is on (for backlight) and the oil pressure gauge is similar with respect to the common ground. As we know now, the rheostat controls the ground for the dash lights. The problem is the common ground wire. I can't hook up the gauges to the rheostat circuit as the ground varies and this would definately screw up the red 12v line which would screw up the gauges' memories when you turned the rheostat. Kip is working on an inverter circuit that could solve the problem. Basically this will invert the voltage seen on one of the rheostat lines (0v for bright, 12v for dark) into what the aftermarket gauges want, 12v for bright, 0v for dark.... Geoff '91t, 160,800km ------------------------------ From: Adrienne Mora Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 09:58:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: Oxy sensor? Ok, I've been following all this idling stuff with interest. They are seem to be with warm idling. Well, this morning I jumped into my car (I haven't used it for about 3 days) and started it and it was ok. I reversed around the side of the house and stopped in the drive and took my foot off the accelerator and it just dropped it's revs until it stalled. I found this most interesting! ; ) (groan! ) .. anyway, I started it again and kept my foot well away from the accelerator and it just did the same ... started and then slowly dropped the revs and stalled. One time it almost managed to catch itself and keep going. So, is this the oxy sensor? After work I'm gonna find some wire and see what the computer says. thanks heaps all you MR2 gurus!! : ) Ade adem@wairc.govt.nz New Zealand '86 SC T-Top MR2 .... "M1STR 2" PS. Where IS the O2 sensor?? (please forgive me .. I'm still-learning : ) PPS. I've just had someone tell me that there are two diff sorts of SCed engines and the main way to tell is that one has only one coil .. and the other has four coils (and more HP). Anyone heard of this? Or is this just for the japanese market? (in which case I can get one ... hehehehehe, nah nah ni nah nah!!! : P~~~ .. living in a little country has to have it's advantages! : ) ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #83