mr2-digest Saturday, 7 September 1996 Volume 01 : Number 395 MR2 Re: Porsche Boxter MR2 Re: MKII shop manuals MR2 Final word on LSD ponderings...(hopefully) MR2 Re: TURBO 91 Door Wiring Harness HELP Re: MR2 Greddy intercooler for Geoff and all interested MR2 Re: mr2-digest V1 #394 MR2 breakers / auto x videos MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits Re: MR2 Re: Porsche Boxter Re: MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits Re: MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits MR2 Re: Help: Connecting a Stereo ('88 MK1 model) MR2 Re: 163 Hp 4AGZE MR2 Radio wiring color-codes... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 21:29:56 Subject: MR2 Re: Porsche Boxter Matt Gawlowski wrote: > On a different note, I read an article in AUTOWEEK about the new Porsche > Boxster...sounds like a great mid-engine car...except that there is NO > engine access from the top! You can fill the water and oil from the > trunk, but can't get to the engine. Yes, that's right, no engine lid, > no hood, nothing. All work is done on the car from BELOW it! Not the > thing for the DIYs huh?! What??? Who was the genious who thought this one up?! Is there a "garage lift" option on the order invoice? :-) (nice looking car though, beats the MRJ all to hell IMHO) Geoff '91t, 183,000km ------------------------------ From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 20:46:27 Subject: MR2 Re: MKII shop manuals "Harry Wang" wrote: > I've heard a lot of people referencing to certain sets of shop > manuals. Are these factory Toyota manuals. Can they be purchased > from the dealer at a reasonable price? How many are there? There are two main manuals and an optional detailed wiring manual (highly recommended!). They are available from Toyota Dealers or through the Toyota Publications place. They *are* a bit pricey, but worth every damned penny IMHO! See http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/catalogs.html for part numbers and full descriptions. Geoff '91t, 183,000km ------------------------------ From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 20:55:39 Subject: MR2 Final word on LSD ponderings...(hopefully) I know there's a hell of a lot of stuff there (I know, a search engine would be nice) but the web site contains a file detailing the decoding of your axle code to tell you way more than you wanted to know including whether you have a limited slip differental or not. The URL is: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/LimitedSlipCode.html Geoff '91t, 183,000km ------------------------------ From: gseeley@island.net (Geoff Seeley) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 21:17:19 Subject: MR2 Re: TURBO 91 Door Wiring Harness HELP Hi KlingK (KlingK), in <960906130721_278812527@emout17.mail.aol.com> on Sep 6 you wrote: > I need some quick info ( my door panel is still off ) on my 91T wiring > harness problem started witht he classic speaker dying then went on to > windows not always wokring then the mirrors then the doors unlocking twice > when the drivers door is closed. This is a known defect and dealers have a TSB on it. My car had the problem and the original owner had it fixed for free. They replaced the wiring harness. > But wait, There's more .... left the harness disconnected and the panel off > till I could find some info on what to do next - got some from Anne on MA on > her repair from the dealer that there was a problem with the IG1 connector. Sounds like something different although it's close to that location. According to the wiring manual, the IG1 connector connects "luggage room wire and engine room main wire (behind footrest)" In other words, it connects the wiring loom from the front trunk to the engine wire loom. > Also when I close the drivers door the the locks unlock twice again and the > harness is disconnected !!!! I think this probably a safety feature of the door locks. The manual here describes a couple of scenarios when you have the key in the ignition any you try to lock the doors, it basically unlocks them again to prevent you from looking like a bonehead when you realize you just locked your keys in the car :) > Whats up here ??? What should I do - should I rip out the harness take it > apart and try to find the opens/shorts in it. Where is the problem with the > locks if it's not the harness ????? Get a new harness, the one from the door to the interior. Your dealer will have the part numbers. Geoff '91t, 183,000km ------------------------------ From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 10:27:10 +0300 (EET) Subject: Re: MR2 Greddy intercooler for Geoff and all interested >Kostas G. D. Chryssos wrote: >> >> How did you get rid of the alu chips???????????? >> >> I was p@$#%&%$ off after all the blowing with compressed air and thinking >> all the alu chips were out to find after a small test ride that a bunch of >> them were in the 60 deg alu bend... god knows how many entered the >> cylinders... of those I do not worry, but if any stuck at a valve lip that >> can be bad. >> >> Now I have a piece of foam stuck in the last tube to collect them...... >> >> I don't want to scare off anybody installing a Greedy intercooler, but those >> alu chips inside are NOT acceptable. >> >> The fun is that they delivered it with shrink plastic over the ports to >> protect from foreign parts entering... or lock in their alu chips?????? >> >> Let us know of your experience. >> >> Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. >> ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS >> Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr >> >> >> >> > >Wow, that is bad. An intercooler is my next upgrade after I get an >exhaust system; I'll have to check for the chips as well. I am >interested to know what kind of performance gains you noticed when you >installed the greddy intercooler, and what kind of setup you had when >you installed it. Right now I have a boost controller, Nology ignition, >K&N air filter, and will have a high flow exhaust soon. Following this >is the intercooler, which I hope will allow me to push the stock turbo >to its outer limits before I either (A) modify the stock turbo, or (B) >Purchase a bigger turbo. Much appreciated. >-- > _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/ > _/ Bradley S. Franklin _/ > _/ WESTVACO Systems Development _/ > _/ Telephone: 540.969.5735 _/ > _/ E-mail: bfranklin@yvv.com _/ > _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/ > _/ www.mindspring.com/~jcsmith/bfranklin _/ > _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/ > >"Officer, I know I was going faster than 55MPH, >but I wasn't going to be on the road an hour." > >-- Steven Wright Hi Steven, Yes it is so bad. I wonder those manufacturers just do not give a dime on what problems they can cause. I wonder does anyone ever get after them. I drove with the foam in for a day and it was covered with chips. Then I went all over and dismantled the intercooler, did some repair work as well (it is easy to work on the intercooler since this one does not require to remove from the bottom as the stock one did) like painting that alu plate black ( I cut another plate since I found out that it I could use a plate with full metal all round the square hole rather than the one provided which is partially cut, (makes the plate stronger), and re-work the piping, used some locally purchased bends, so that they would fit and not rattle on the cross bars of the engine compartment. Now I will be bending tubes for a better pipe fit......we pay their price, don't we, why can't they provide proper service????????? I have lots of mods in, check my page at www.mr2.com, but none with the ignition. I have also gone back to the stock air-filter as I had seen no difference with a K&N cone or the HKS one. I have removed the air flow meter though as I have installed an HKS VPC. After removing the intercooler I filled it all the way up with trichloroethane and boy mucho chips came up. Did this 5 times and then two more with shaking and then two more to finally get two consecutive times without a single chip coming out. I now think that all the loose ones at least are out. Now driving and testing I have not done much for I had the foam thing in. I noticed though that the boost gained a bit, like 0.1 bar at the top (around 1.0 bar) but I did not have had the fan going since I had to work the cable to make it fit. When I get more info I will paste it. Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr ------------------------------ From: sv1bt@compulink.gr (Kostas G. D. Chryssos ) Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 11:13:50 +0300 (EET) Subject: MR2 Re: mr2-digest V1 #394 >From: Gerald San Agustin >Date: Fri, 06 Sep 1996 21:01:20 -0700 >Subject: MR2 Re: rear wheel horsepower > >> My thinking is, if the power goes into the transmission and doesn't come >> out, it is staying in there as heat. If you're really losing eighty >> horsepower in the Porsche's transmission, how long does it take before the >> case glows red, or being aluminum, melts, and the oil becomes one big >> chunk of black carbon? I just don't think that at high power levels, >> twenty percent loss is reasonable. And with all the effort that has been >> put into improving transmission efficiency in the last twenty years, I >> think we should probably be doing better than that anyway. The 20% rule >> may also have been generated in front-V8, rear-wheel-drive cars from the >> sixties and seventies with automatic transmissions and torque converters >> eating up their output. >> >> What do y'all think? >> > >I agree. One point that I usually keep thinking about is when does this >20% become unrealistic. Imagine a 1300 horsepower pro stocker. If >someone uses the 20% rule, then 260 horsepower would be lost through the >drivetrain (more horsepower than most cars have). I know this is an off >the wall example, but it's still something that I always think about. >Any opinions? > >Gerald San Agustin >88 MR2 Twincharger >Cyber Racing, So Cal. > >------------------------------ > It is not a percentage but a rather fix HP loss value. It runs from 50...60 to 80..90 HP depending on the number of bearings, the gearbox, the links etc. Thos heat is dissipated in various ways the manufacturers make sure of this. Why do you think that oil in your gearbox gets hot? > Kostas G.D.Chryssos Ph.D. ELFON Ltd. 30 Ikarias str., Glyfada GR 16675 Athens HELLAS Tel: + 301 9628212 Fax: + 301 9628539 e-mail: sv1bt@compulink.gr ------------------------------ From: david.cole@ukonline.co.uk Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 13:29:07 +0100 Subject: MR2 breakers / auto x videos Neil Maitland: Connect Mr2 to the mains!. Toyota do a touch up paint, if your's is the same dark blue as my '89, the code on the cap of spray paint that i got from Toyota is: 8E3. You might like to try these for your badge: Malcolm @ EMETECH BREAKERS (MR2) 01803 559963 (I've used these people, and they provide a really good service) Adrienne @ Fensport - 01353 778082 Performance Toyota Parts New/2nd Hand To the autoX guys State Side - are there any video's available of the MR2 auto-crossing - I'd love to see the MR2 in race condition! (Postage/Costs paid) Dave Brighton '89 Mk1 ------------------------------ From: Joel Grospe Date: Sat, 07 Sep 1996 09:38:39 -0700 Subject: MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits Higher than stock boost levels will not produce additional power without the need for increasing fuel intake. Question : What is a practical boost ceiling for Mk-II Turbo stock fuel injectors? Thanks, Joel 92T ------------------------------ From: Dan Barnes Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 10:56:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: MR2 Re: Porsche Boxter On Fri, 6 Sep 1996, Geoff Seeley wrote: > Matt Gawlowski wrote: > > All work is done on the car from BELOW it! Not the > > thing for the DIYs huh?! > > What??? Who was the genious who thought this one up?! Is there a > "garage lift" option on the order invoice? :-) > > Geoff Almost everything I do to my MKI starts out by jacking the car and putting it on stands. Almost everything. And what about 914s? Dan Barnes dabarnes@osiris.ac.hmc.edu Under the Smog MISTRS2 http://www2.hmc.edu/~dabarnes/carguy.html These are just opinions, and only my opinions. They may be wrong, so don't act on them in a way that could cost you lots of money without getting several others first. They aren't the opinions of my school or my employer. ------------------------------ From: Christopher Heiser Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 15:14:00 -0400 Subject: Re: MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits >Higher than stock boost levels will not produce additional power without >the need for increasing fuel intake. > actually, this is not quite accurate. it would be better to say that the stock injectors theoretically limit the maximum horespower of the car to some level. since the car uses an airflow sensor, it will change the fuel output of the injectors to keep its preassigned A/F ratio at any boost level. but at some intake pressure (somewhere around 20psi, i imagine) the injectors will be at their maximum duty cycle. increased boost will just lean out the mixture. while slightly lean mixtures can produce more power, they SERIOUSLY ENDANGER the internals of your engine if they are not carefully controlled. the combustion temperatures rise dramatically as the mixture leans out. i would recommend that if anyone plans to do high boost levels on their car, regardless of their fuel system, they should invest in an exhaust gas temp sensor, as well as an A/F ratio monitor. these two indicators should give you enough information so that you do not seriously damage your engine. if i get a chance, i will post pictures of an eclipse (2.0L, DOHC) engine that saw 25psi+ with the stock fuel setup. when the engine was torn down, one of the pistons _could_not_be_found_. all that was left was some small fragments in the oil pan..... -ch Christopher B. Heiser | chris@visionfoundry.com | VisionFoundry, Ltd. | ------------------------------ From: Joel Grospe Date: Sat, 07 Sep 1996 12:43:47 -0700 Subject: Re: MR2 MkII-T Fuel Injector Limits Let me reframe my question: Up to what boost level will the stock f.i. hold up (okay...while maintaining the proper A/F ratio)? Anyone with actual experience or facts please respond. Thanks. Joel 92T ------------------------------ From: "Marc C. Brooks" Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 16:17:58 -0500 Subject: MR2 Re: Help: Connecting a Stereo ('88 MK1 model) Assuming you have the standard four-speaker layout... Red - Rear Right-hand + White - Rear Right-hand - Black - Rear Left-hand + Yellow - Rear Right-hand - Light Green - Front Right-hand + Blue - Front Right-hand - Pink - Front Left-hand + Violet - Front Left-hand - Pink/Blue - Subwoofer Control (+12v when radio/CD/tape is ON) Brown - Ground Black/Red - Antenna Up (+12v when radio is ON) Gray - Clock power (always +12v) Blue/Yellow - Main power (+12v when ignition ON or ACC) Hope this helps, Marc > back monday', he said, but I can't wait untill monday. So is there anyone > who know's what the colors of the wires stand for. Please help. ------------------------------ From: Matti Kalalahti Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 00:34:49 +0300 (EET DST) Subject: MR2 Re: 163 Hp 4AGZE > This version of the 4AGZE was used on the supercharged Levin. Reason > for the higher horsepower levels are: > > There is no Airflow meter, less intake restriction. > The intake ports a substantially smaller, offering increased air > velocity and torque. > Japanese ECUs are programmed with a more aggressive timing curve, since > fuel in Japan is higher octane. > > Gerald San Agustin > Cyber Racing, So Cal. Also, the compression ratio is higher (8.9 vs 8.0), and it has the wasted spark 2-coil ignition (no dizzy). These Nippondenso coils are apparently as good as one is ever going to need - seen them on a 3S-GTE dragster running mid 7's. - -- Matti Kalalahti | Toyota Carina Coupe GT-T TwinCam Turbo '82 k124476@ee.tut.fi | RWD * IRS * LSD * 3T-GTEU * 232hp and moving on up... A Huge Evergrowing WWW Home Page * http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/ ------------------------------ From: "Marc C. Brooks" Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 16:43:09 -0500 Subject: MR2 Radio wiring color-codes... > back monday', he said, but I can't wait untill monday. So is there > anyone who know's what the colors of the wires stand for. Please help. Assuming you have the standard four-speaker layout... Red - Rear Right-hand + White - Rear Right-hand - Black - Rear Left-hand + Yellow - Rear Right-hand - Light Green - Front Right-hand + Blue - Front Right-hand - Pink - Front Left-hand + Violet - Front Left-hand - Pink/Blue - Subwoofer Control (+12v when radio/CD/tape is ON) Brown - Ground Black/Red - Antenna Up (+12v when radio is ON) Gray - Clock power (always +12v) Blue/Yellow - Main power (+12v when ignition ON or ACC) Hope this helps, Marc ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #395