mr2-digest Saturday, 28 September 1996 Volume 01 : Number 434 Re: MR2 Hot Wires MR2 Wuh hoo! Got my Yellow 91 Turbo today! MR2 performance MR2 Magnetic oil filters MR2 Re: cali noise pollution MR2 Crush Washer Questions MR2 Hot Wires MR2 RE: mr2-digest V1 #433 MR2 3M car care products MR2 Re: HotWires MR2 Re: Removing Cats MR2 MKII Variations MR2 MkII Fuel Injector Calibration? MR2 Re: F-Con Re: MR2 Crush Washer Questions MR2 Tranny fluid change mk1 MR2 fuel rail MR2 Yellow & 2nd gen variations MR2 Lights ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dan Barnes Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:32:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: MR2 Hot Wires On Fri, 27 Sep 1996 JHoSee@davd.com wrote: > Subject: MR2 Hot Wires > Author: Dan Barnes at Internet > > /We got to the part in E-94 (Electrical Engineering) this week where > /capacitors are used to increase the efficiency of periodic-current > /circuits. I'll try and work out some equations and figure out how to > /explain it so the majority of listmembers could understand it. > > Well in Turbo magazine they explained it something like > > Power = Voltage / Time^2 (I think!) > > But you can see the smaller the time, the more the power. > > - Jeffrey Power is a derived physical quantity (meaning it's not basic, like mass, length, and time) equal to work/time, or energy/time. 1volt = 1Joule of energy / 1Coulomb of charge transferred 1Ampere = 1 Coulomb of charge / 1 second Therefore, the units of electrical power are: 1 Watt = 1 volt * 1 Amp = 1 Joule of energy / 1 second In DC circuits, power is fairly easy to derive: V = I(current) * R(resistance) So P = V*I = (I^2)*R = (V^2)/R In the case of DC current, for a given power, the energy transferred increases directly with time. Or, for a given amount of energy transferred, the power increases as time is decreased. However, an ignition is not direct current. We think of it as a pulse of positive voltage, but the circuit between the coil, the spark plug, and whatever path the ground takes back to the coil forms a loop, so there is an inductance. As the current changes, there is a "bounce," so the circuit can effectively be considered AC. Also, the size of this loop varies from cylinder to cylinder, so the size of the inductance varies as well, and hence the capacitance necessary to tune it ideally. The phenomena where we might pick something up is an AC phenomena. Describing it properly requires a very good understanding of electrical circuits, and some very elegant uses of complex numbers (real + imaginary). If you understand it, it is beautiful, but if you don't, it's gibberish. The improvement to be made is one of efficiency, where less power is used by the coil to deliver a given amount of power to the spark plug. It gets tricky because a spark plug is a non-constant, non-linear resistance: the tail of the spark continues at much lower voltages than are required to ionize the gases in the cylinder and initiate the spark. Someone mentioned capacitor-discharge ignitions on this thread. They work by charging a capacitor, then discharging it across the spark plug, and they have absolutely nothing to do with Nology Hot Wires. All modern automobiles have inductive ignitions. Dan Barnes dabarnes@osiris.ac.hmc.edu Under the Smog MISTRS2 http://www2.hmc.edu/~dabarnes/carguy.html These are just opinions, and only my opinions. They may be wrong, so don't act on them in a way that could cost you lots of money without getting several others first. They aren't the opinions of my school or my employer. ------------------------------ From: JHoSee@davd.com Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:31:30 -0700 Subject: MR2 Wuh hoo! Got my Yellow 91 Turbo today! Well finally after 2 weeks of the bank dragging their feet... I took ownership of a 1991 Yellow Turbo! I'm real happy with the car. The interior is immaculate and the paint/body is in good shape considering the year and mileage (36k). It runs really good and corners like a dream. I'm scared to push it and wreck the thing. I'm happy with the car! But I found out some things that put a damper on my new Toy. :( #1) Front chin HAD been bottom... not as bad as other cars I've seen, but a under body peice of plastic is hanging out. I'll have to tuck it in later. *sigh* Just bothersome... #2) Someone knocked the door off before! The inside jam has paint cracks/chips! Doh! They put a nut and bolt to hold the retaining arm to the door jam instead of a regular pin assembly. I wonder why? But the damndest thing is, the door closes fine... just when you extend it open ALL the way it crunks a little. That noise led me to my findings. *sigh* Gotta find some touch up paint... I hope they didn't break the pin mounting arm open. Otherwise I'll need a welders assistance or something. :P I hope this new revelations don't keep coming up. But otherwise, I like the car. *sigh* - - Jeffrey p.s. A 3 inch scratch I didn't notice before and a few chips I didn't either. *sigh* I'm just hoping the horror doesn't continue. Course I'm just being fussy. The car's great otherwise. I guess I'm just accustomed to newness. ;D ------------------------------ From: mjn@earthlink.net (Mark Nernberg) Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 16:42:20 -0400 Subject: MR2 performance I received the boost controller from John at MR2 today, along with a K&N filtercharger and HK$ FCD. I already installed the boost controller and filter, then took it out for a spin. Unfortunately, I am limited to the back lot around my building until after-hours, but: 1.) Noticably more power. 2.) What a rush of a sound with the filtercharger! I also received a gift from a friend: I got a G-Tech performance measuring accelerometer. Neat! I haven't fully checked it out, but for those of you interested in measuring performance, I would reccommend it. Now the question: Any advice for me from the group regarding the performance enhancements? Mark J. Nernberg (The World International Pizzalympics "World's Best Pizza Maker 1994, 1995, 1996") Managing Director/Ocean City Food Corporation, Inc./Ocean City, NJ mjn@earthlink.net (609)398-6280 1995 MR-2 Turbo, 1996 BMW 750iL, 1996 BMW M-3, 1961 Ferrari Type 250 Testa Rossa, convertible (The only one ever built!), 1996 Ferrari F355c (competizione), 1995 Ferrari F512M (for sale/trade -- I want the new F133 Maranello!), 1996 Ferrari F50 (number 003), 1968 Lamborghini Miura, 1971 Plymouth Superbird, 1996 Acura NSX-R/T, 1954 Mercedes 300SL Gull Wing, 1994 Mazda RX7 R-2, 1958 Vincent Black Shadow, 1963 Norton Commando, 1968 BMW RT100, 1995 McLaren F-1. Wait listed for 1997 Gillette Vertigo. Delivery on 7 October (scheduled). Wait listed for 1997 Ferrari F133 Maranello. Delivery expected in January. (Now possibly delayed until February). Looking for a decent raced F1 car. Pref. Ferrari, but Lotus or Benneton will do. *** And racing all of them at every stoplight! *** ------------------------------ From: ssr@netcom.com (David Kucharczyk) Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 14:07:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: MR2 Magnetic oil filters With all the dicussion about magnetic oil filters I thought I'd add some thoughts and information. 1) JC Whitley sells just such a device made by Magna-Strap for $9.95 (or $14.95 for the two magnet model). Part number 71DH0568P page 196. 2) Oil filters are designed to trap particles that have a minimum size that will pass through most engine clearances by a large margin, so what does removing smaller particles buy you ? 3) Many wear surfaces (bearings) in a motor are not made of magnetic materials. How do you measure the results of adding the magnets to your filter ? Does the company provide any real data on how effective the magnets are at capturing metal as it passes through the filter ? For example running 20 liters of 30W oil at 70 degrees with 200mg of 30 micron iron particles mixed into it through a filter and then disassembling the filter and weighing the contents ? dave ------------------------------ From: Heather Bundy Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 14:54:05 -0800 Subject: MR2 Re: cali noise pollution >Charlie Reynolds >92 NA > >PS: Regarding all the talk about the legality of cat-back or straight >pipes in >CA: I know California is fairly nuts about emissions, but come on, the >muffler >does nothing but muffle the sound. There are NO changes in pollution due to >muffler changes (cleaned out cats are another issue). Noise pollution >could be >a problem, but has anyone on the digest ever received a warning about >this? If >they're worried about MR2 noise, shouldn't they arrest all of the Harley >riders? > Luckily for you, you must not know california cops. I've actually been pulled over for excessive noise pullution from my car radio after 10 PM, and in Sacramento city (not the whole county) they've extended the noise pollution law to apply any time of the day. -*-Heather '87 Red, N/A, t-tops ------------------------------ From: JHoSee@davd.com Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 14:55:13 -0700 Subject: MR2 Crush Washer Questions Doh! The Toyota Parts dept. charged me for 4 washers, 2 for the oil drain plug and 2 for the manual transmission fluid change. I lost one of them. So I don't know which is which (since I am new owner, I haven't been under the car yet!) Does anyone know which washer is which? I have a black fiber type one and a aluminum crush one ... which is for which? I wanna make sure before I start early tomorrow morning. Thanks. - - Jeffrey ------------------------------ From: "Scott L. Burson" Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 15:16:49 PDT Subject: MR2 Hot Wires From: Dan Barnes Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 20:40:28 -0700 (PDT) We got to the part in E-94 (Electrical Engineering) this week where capacitors are used to increase the efficiency of periodic-current circuits. I'll try and work out some equations and figure out how to explain it so the majority of listmembers could understand it. Basically, it looks like there is something to be gained from adding a capacitance to the wires, but I think it could be engineered a lot better than Nology has done, and for a lot less money. Also, the effects are frequency-dependent, so the system can be tuned for greatest efficiency at any rpm range you desire. Well, a piece of wire is not going to have a lot in the way of capacitance -- down in the nanofarad range, I would guess. I think you'll find that the time constant is much much shorter than an engine revolution, so tuning the system for RPM doesn't make any sense. I think it's really not all that complicated. The voltage across the spark gap rises to a peak value to ionize the gas in the gap, then drops as current flows across the gap. If a capacitor is charged during the ionization phase (I would guess we're talking in the microseconds here), then once current flows, the capacitor will discharge, increasing the current (by an amount that may or may not be significant). I do think it could work, provided one can figure out how to give the wires significant capacitance while withstanding the very high voltages involved. (Don't overlook the nontrivial materials & design issues involved here. Capacitance is inversely related to the thickness of the insulator. I'm not an expert on wires or capacitors, but I know enough to know that it could be difficult.) What I don't believe is claims that it will reduce distributor wear. In order to store up a significant amount of energy during the ionization phase, I would think the peak charging current must be very high, and of course the total amount of energy transferred through the distributor is increased. Maybe I should order a set of these and check them with a capacitance meter. Did someone say Nology had fixed the problems with the boots not fitting well? (Or do I misunderstand about there having been such problems?) - -- Scott ------------------------------ From: "Marc C. Brooks" Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 17:13:53 -0500 Subject: MR2 RE: mr2-digest V1 #433 > I think you are missing the whole point here. > Most oil filters don't filter to that small a level. > And no it doesn't mean that the oil filter is > defective if it doesn't filter out 100% of the > metal particles in the oil. Just one simple question? How does a "MagnaFilter" attach non-ferrous particles that are most common in ALUMINUM block/head engines? Marc ------------------------------ From: whitemr2@usa.pipeline.com (Matt Gawlowski) Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 00:11:18 GMT Subject: MR2 3M car care products A while back there was a thread on car care products and how great the 3M ones were...I've never seen a place selling this stuff, till now - 'Motorcars International' (great catalog), 800-977-9707, www.motorcars-intl.com. I have no affiliation, just thought some of you may have been searching in vain for 3M stuff. - -- Matt Gawlowski, '91 White NA MR2 whitemr2@usa.pipeline.com ------------------------------ From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 19:26:38 -0700 Subject: MR2 Re: HotWires >How about a 'variable' capacitor, so that the capacitance may be modified >across the rpm range? Isn't this what a good ignition amp should do? I'd be willing to bet that money would be better spent on a high quality ignition with less expensive wires like the Magnecores. Afterall, what if after upgrading to the HotWires you decide you need a better amp that may or may not work with them? I dunno . . . just my thoughts. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com ------------------------------ From: kca@interserv.com Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 19:43:50 -0700 Subject: MR2 Re: Removing Cats I've found that a good pellet gun usually does the trick. ;-) I haven't tried this, but if a person could convince an exhaust shop that the exhaust work is being performed on a vehicle for 'racing purposes only', they might be more apt to do what you want. What you do with the car after it leaves their shop isn't their responsibility. Not sure if this is legal if the car's still licensed for the street, but it may get the job done. Kip Anderson kca@interserv.com ------------------------------ From: Tony Do Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 22:48:45 -0500 (CDT) Subject: MR2 MKII Variations Hi Craig, Re: 93 MR2 Turbo -- From what information you've given I'd be rather suspicious if this car has been in an accident (noting that you said that the one headlight cover is a different color, and that the car is "brighter" than the other ones you've seen. Could be caused by mismatched paint, then they tried to repaint the whole car.) Those clues really trigger a red flag in my head... Ask if the car has ever been in an accident. 'Course, there could be nothing wrong with the car, but it's always nice to know. I got hit on the side of my '95 Toyota Avalon a couple months ago, and my dealer has done a pretty good job of repairing the damage -- paint matches, no wind noise, very close tolerances, etc. My only quirk so far is that the door doesn't seem to close as "solidly" as it did before - but hopefully that can be changed with some adjustments. Just my $.02 -- I could be totally wrong! :) _____ __ /_______ _______ _____ __ Tony Do - Franklin, WI _ __/_ __ \__ __ \__ / / / tonyd@execpc.com / /_ / /_/ /_ / / /_ /_/ / cle@csd.uwm.edu \__/ \____/ /_/ /_/ _\__, / http://www.uwm.edu/~cle /____/ USR Sportster 33.6k ------------------------------ From: Joel Grospe Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 22:54:28 -0700 Subject: MR2 MkII Fuel Injector Calibration? So, I decided to call RC Engineering in Torrance today to find out about their FI cleaning/calibration service. It'll cost $26 per injector, 3 hours turn around time for a set of four, and resulting in balanced injectors with output within 1.5% of each other. Fresh from the box Toyota injectors are within 4%, I was told. I wanted to do this route first before pursuing staged modifications to my 92T. I just wanted to make sure that the important FIs have a clean bill of health first. But here's the damper. You have to get the injectors out yourself or pay a mechanic to do it for you. It would involve taking out the intake manifold. I asked for a referral and was referred to Pro-Audio in Gardena who also does after-market tuning and the owner owns a modified MkII Turbo. I spoke with him and he advised me from doing it because of the expense (roughly $400 to remove/reinstall the injectors plus $100 to calibrate). His car is also heavily modified, he said, and he still has not touched the FIs. His advise - put the money somewhere else - like air filters and exhaust. Hmmm........ At any rate, I was glad he did not recommend like putting the money into a new stereo system ;-) Looks like I'm gonna be waiting for the DynoDay results more eagerly. Joel 92T ------------------------------ From: Gerald San Agustin Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 00:13:19 -0700 Subject: MR2 Re: F-Con > Would an HKS F-Con designed for a Supra work on a MKII Turbo? What would I need > to adapt it, a new wiring harness? What kind of performance gains could I > expect? > > Thanks, > Alex > 1991 MR2 Turbo If an F-Con was designed for a 6 cylinder, then it will only work for a 6 cylinder, and vice versa. On the other hand, if you're goning to switch between two 4 cylinder engines, all you would need is the correct PROM and harness. Gerald San Agustin 88 MR2 Twincharger Cyber Racing, So Cal. ------------------------------ From: Dan Barnes Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 00:43:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: MR2 Crush Washer Questions On Fri, 27 Sep 1996 JHoSee@davd.com wrote: > Does anyone know which washer is which? I have a black > fiber type one and a aluminum crush one ... > which is for which? I wanna make sure before I start > early tomorrow morning. > > Thanks. > > - Jeffrey My car has a fiber washer on the engine's oilpan, and a crush washer on the tranny plug. Dan Barnes dabarnes@osiris.ac.hmc.edu Under the Smog MISTRS2 http://www2.hmc.edu/~dabarnes/carguy.html These are just opinions, and only my opinions. They may be wrong, so don't act on them in a way that could cost you lots of money without getting several others first. They aren't the opinions of my school or my employer. ------------------------------ From: aly abulkheir Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 18:46:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: MR2 Tranny fluid change mk1 Chris, To change the tranny fluid on the mk1, get a 15/16ths socket and wrench. I'm not sure of the metric size, but this size worked for me. There are two drain plugs of the same size. Jack the car up on the left rear enough to get under the car and secure it with jackstands. On the tranny itself at almost its lowest part, you'll find the drain plug, which faces the left side of the car. Just remove this plug, and the fluid will drain. Once it's all drained, put the drain plug back, and move toward the front of the tranny a little. The fill plug is up a bit, same size bolt as the drain plug, and is facing toward the front of the car. Remove this plug, and fill the tranny with fluid (I find that a hand operated pump makes it so much easier. It only costs about $5 at an autoparts store, and fits over the fluid bottle and screws on like the original cap, then has a small hose that you fit into the fill hole on the tranny.). The capacity is about 2.5 quarts for the tranny (2.4 or 2.6). I've been using Castrol fluid for a while, but recently changed it with Redline MTL to see how it works. I haven't noticed any decrease in notchiness yet, but Mr.2 PP says it takes a while for it to work into the tranny and make a difference. Hope this helps :-) Aly '85 MR2 "MR2. The finest automobile in the world. The LS400 isn't too bad either." :) ------------------------------ From: "BRAD BEDELL" Date: Sat, 28 Sep 96 13:53:32 UT Subject: MR2 fuel rail Hello everyone, On the fuel rail mod, I going monday to get a parts list for the mod I did. I will have "Earls" part #'s and a brief description on the way I did it. Tools- 12 X 1.25 tap w/ proper drill bit 5/16 drill bit (apx 16 " long) to drill the center of rail 1/8 npt tap and plug to plug end of rail anyone who has taken the rail out will see that toyota machined the rail out from the passanger side of the rail (right) all I did is remove the plug and drilled the rail out. This went from apx 5mm to 8mm not alot of difference, but enough that I feel better. brief list w/ out part #'s 3 -6 to 12x 1.25 fittings 1 -3(m) to 1/8 npt (f) 90 deg fitting 1 tee -6 (2male ends and one female end female end to rail) apx 5 feet of -6 line 3 -6 straight connectors (hose to male fitting) 1 -6 90 deg (f) to hose 1 12x1.25 tap w/ proper drill bit 1 1/8 npt tap w/ proper bit 1 5/16 drill bit apx 18" long ( to drill out rail) 1 1/8 npt plug/ hex end or slotted 1) remove fuel rail, injectors, bolts, regulator, etc 2) drill out plug on (passanger side of rail (right side)) 3) using 5/16 drill bit (long) drill out center of rail (fuel path) Be careful and keep this wet w/ oil so not to overheat bit/and keep the path smooth. 4) drill out regulater hole, and fuel line hole.....careful not to hit threads 5) drill & tap cold start injector feed (on rail) to 12X1.25 (careful here not much material set it up in a drill press or like) 6) tap first 1/2 inch of rail and plug the newly bored hole for 1/8 npt plug (or weld end shut) and grind it to origional length/ (no extra clearance on the rail) 7) clean all metal shavings (should be done before plugs installed) 8) install 12 x 1.25 to -6 fittings in two end (factory holes) 9) install fuel psi regulator in center hole (one you drilled) again be careful not much material here/ (watch it you guys who think tighter is better) 10) take the tee and drill through the side of it and tap it for 1/8 npt (only half of the tee not all the way through) 11) put 90 deg 1/8 npt to -3 fitting in (tighten) align toward coldstart injector 12) fit hose to rail ( 90 deg -6 on right side and tee on left) 13) install -3 line to fitting/ and re assemble injector rail 14) install rail and cold start injector line 15) remove banjo bolt from fuel filter and remove fuel line from rail to filter 16) put -6 to 12 X 1.25 fitting in filter 17) route -6 line from filter to rail test system for leaks also another note, sorry to make this so long, this would be a good time to get your injectors balanced...everyone seems to be overlooking this fact...if you don't balance the fuel, it dosen't matter ifyou balance the air...it still will run lean in a cylinder..(I sure hope this dosen't start any debates if you have any questions call RC Engineering (310)320-2277 ) This cost me apx 125.00 w/ shipping (AND WAS WORTH THE MONEY!!) The whole rail thing cost me apx 150.00 w/ all the tools (WAS IT WORTH IT?? well I haven't changed any more pistions since) This should not be a too difficult project for you w/ a little mechanical ability...if you tend to leave hoses, belts, and nuts loose, I would not try it let someone who can handle it do it.....However the fuel rail isn't too expensive at Toyota, but it does take a couple of weeks to get it in..(ex-toyota employee) As far as brakes----the mounting brackets, calipers, and rotors, don't forget shields are all bolt in you do however need to press the bearing out to put the shields in ( clear the hub) the 93 abs seems to work faster ( 91 brakes chirp) (93 brakes don't) This cost me apx $400....and sure is a hell of alot cheaper than...Hmmm...Curbs, mailboxes, telephone poles (I think you get my point) If you have any questions, call me at work (972) 422-7575 this is at Pepboys I'm in the service dept and would like everyone to keep their cars togeather. Or you can E-mail me at Bradbedell@msn.com Sorry so long, hope this helps anyone/ Bradbedell@msn.com 91 MKII turbo 88 ALL-Trac Turbo ------------------------------ From: mattm@juno.com Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 11:45:45 EDT Subject: MR2 Yellow & 2nd gen variations First was 567 then the Yellow became 576. The guy from NZ asking about variations for the 93 are all correct plus the suspension changed. Its all OEM stuff. Matt Murray MattM@juno.com ------------------------------ From: rhconti@amoco.com Date: Sat, 28 Sep 96 10:48:15 -0500 Subject: MR2 Lights I know the thread on lights was about a week ago, but I've been buried at work and haven't gotten to the digest for a while. Thanks to Charles, Jeffrey, and everyone who provided info / checked out alternatives. I, too, think that $1000 sounds more than a bit stiff for replacing the standard lights with the projectors, especially if I have to take it to California to have it done... If anyone does learn more about what can be done, please post to let us know. It seems a few of us are interested! -Renni ------------------------------ End of mr2-digest V1 #434