How to Install Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads (Rear), on a 1993 MR2 Turbo
From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" (marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com)
Subject: How to Install Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads (Rear), on a 1993 MR2 Turbo
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 11:09:07 PDT
Detailed Instructions on how to
Install Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads
(Rear), on a 1993 MR2 Turbo
SEE ALSO:
Installing Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads (Front), on a 1993 MR2 Turbo
DISCLAMER: Note, as always, what you do to your car, is what you do
to your car.
In other words you do it, and your responsible, no one else.
NOTE: Any time you are working on a system as important as your brakes
please make sure that you double check yourself, or if you have
them available, have someone else look over your work, and make
sure that you have not left something off, or have a bolt missing
or did not tighten something. It is just common sense to check
your work. I try to use as much of it as I can.
TOOLS USED:
12mm openend/boxend wrench
12mm socket 3/8 drive
10 inch 3/8 drive extension
torque wrench
12 inch bungi cord
caliper wrench tool (sears has them $8.00)
If you need, seperate torque wrench that goes to at least
76 ft lbs to retighten your wheel lug nuts.
13/16 socket 1/2 drive for wheel lug nuts.
1/2 drive breaker bar
3/8 -> 1/2 drive adapter (for my torque wrench).
small flashlight
small mirror
Common Sense, (use liberally)
OTHER PARTS PURCHASED:
(orange colored) anti squeal sealant.
DISCLAIMER: This is not a product endorsement, it is not meant
as an advertisement, this is simply my observations of
this product, so that others may be able to make an
intelligent informed decision.
Carbon Kevlar brake pads
(Purchased from broderij@tcplink.nrel.gov
John Broderick, Mr.2 Performance Products)
Cost $125 + $8 S&H (set of 4 pads).
NOTE: please make sure that you read these instructions all the way
through at least once before proceeding.
NOTE: It is assumed that you already have your own set of shop manuals.
These are almost a must if you plan on doing any work on your car.
I got mine through my dealer at a cost of $40 (US) each for the
two books. Please, if you plan on doing most of the work on your
car, as I do, then the shop manuals are a must buy.
PROCEEDURES:
NOTE: I do not have a lift or do I have access to one, so this proceedure
is done using the stock sissor jack that comes with the car.
NOTE: For those that may not have a flat level surface to work on you may want
to put some chocks on the front wheels to keep the car from trying
to roll when you take the parking brake off.
Choose one side to start, I started on the passengers side, and jack up
the car. Using your 13/16 socket and 1/2 drive breaker bar, loosen all
of the lug nuts and remove them and the wheel and set them aside.
Make sure you release the parking brake lever. Now locate the one
bolt on the bottom of the rear side of the brake caliper and using
your 12mm openend/boxend wrench, loosen this bolt and remove it.
Set it aside for now, (you might want to check it for rust.)
Now the caliper should swing up, from the bottom, you may have to
push a little on the parking brake cable, swing it up and then
using your 12 inch bungi cord, wrap the cord in the lower rung of
the shock coil spring, and hook the end of the bungi cord hook, on
the end of the brake caliper. Now stretch the other end of the bungi
cord down and hook it also on the end of the brake caliper.
This will hold it up out of the way while you remove and install
the brake pads.
Now first observe how the front brake pads are positioned in the
pad seat. Once you are sure you see how they are set in place, then
go ahead and pull out the front pad along with the associated
anti squeal shims (there are two on each pad.)
Do the same for the rear pad, and remove the pad and the shims.
Now clean the shims, I used some dish washing soap and a little
scrub pad, and clean them and dry them off.
Now we are ready to apply the anti squeal sealant, I bought a small
bottle of it over at Baxter Auto.
NOTE: it doesn't take a lot of this stuff to work, so don't
go overboard in putting it on. Also remember that it is
going to get squeezed so apply it lightly.
Make sure the back side of the brake pad is clean, and judging the
size of the shim as it lays on the brake pad, then goop on some
of the anti squeal sealant on the back side of the brake pad and
then stick the inner anti squeal shim in place. Then goop some
more anti squeal sealant on that inner pad, and then stick on the
stainless steel outer anti squeal shim. You can let this set for
about 10 minutes if you prefer, or you can go ahead and set it
back in place. When setting the front pad in place make sure you
observe how the springy part of the pad holders go in the square
groove on the pad.
Now do basically the same thing for the rear or inside pad, put some
anti squeal sealant on the backside of the brake pad and then stick
the inner anti squeal shim in place making sure that the shim hole
goes down inplace on the pad round protrusion. Now put some more
anti sealant goop on the top of the inner anti squeal shim and
then stick the outer anti squeal shim in place again making sure
that the hole in the shim fits down over the round protrusion on
the pad. Otherwise you are going to wind up with some very bent
shims.
Now you can wait awhile until the goop sets up and place the pad
or you can put it in place now if you want, just make sure that
you don't get any of the anti squeal sealant on the face of the
brake pad.
Now place the rear pad in place. check that it seats properly on
the face of the rotor.
Now you are ready to turn the caliper piston back so that the brake
caliper housing will fit back over the now, much thicker new pads.
using a long 3/8 drive extension press the special caliper tool on
the end of the extension and then the extension on the end of your
socket drive, and line up the holes with the U grooves on the
caliper piston, and turn it clockwise. You will have to turn is
several turns until it seats fully back almost flush with the
face of the caliper. As you look at the face of the piston the
U grooves need to be at 12 oclock, and 6 oclock make sure you
look at the picture in the shop manual to get a good idea of
how the piston is suppose to be lined up.
You should then be able to release the bungi cord,
and aligning the caliper push it back in place over the
new pads.
Make sure that you don't catch one of the shims on the edge and
bend it while you are trying to put the caliper in place.
Now you are ready to replace the one bolt, place the bolt and you
may have to move the caliper up just a touch for the bolt to slide
back in place. Then tighten the bolt down to the torque speck of
14 ft/lbs using your 12mm socket and torque wrench.
Now, please, inspect your work, use the flashlight and mirror and
check to see that everything looks OK. After you have checked you
are ready to put the wheel back on.
NOTE: I will not go through the proceedure to bleed the brakes
or flush the brake fluid as these are outlined in detail
in my how to change the front brakes, and also since I
have already done this when I changed out the front brakes.
Now put the wheel back on making sure to properly torque each lug nut
to its 76 ft./lbs. of torque, and at the same time torquing in a
star pattern so as not to cause the wheel to warp.
One thing I do is to torque the lug nuts down to about half, 40 ft
lbs, and then finish them off by torquing them down to spec.
After you have finished putting the wheel back on then lower the car
and get ready to do the other side. You may want to reapply the
parking brake while you are lowering and raising the car.
Now jack up the other side of the car and remove the wheel, and
basically follow the outline above and remove the old pads, clean
the shims, goop the shims and place them on the new pads, and then
put the new pads in place, rotate the piston clockwise to retract it
and align up the U grooves in the piston at 12 oclock and 6 oclock
and then slide the caliper back in place and tighten the bolt.
Then put the wheel back on and your done with the pads.
Now I will include a section that John Broderick gave me for adjusting
the parking brake.
1. put the parking brake on full with the engine idling in neutral
press firmly the brake pedal 4 times slowly
2. now press firmly the brake pedal and hold it
release and apply the parking brake lever 4 times.
This proceedure is recommended before bedding the rear pads.
This proceedure should be done any time you change your rear brake
pads and any time you feel the brakes may be getting a little soft.
Also perform the proceedure as a regular maintainance perform this
proceedure everytime you change your oil out.
Thanks John, for this proceedure I tried it and it really does work.
Now please refer to my section on bedding the pads in my how to
detailed proceedure on installing the front pads.
Now I can say from experience that you will have some really
AWESOME! stopping power.
Remember have fun and try to keep it under 150 MPH :^)
Marc L. Summers