Detailed Instructions Of How To
Change The Timing Belt And Head Gasket
On A 1993 MR2 Turbo
NOTE: Before you even think about starting this proceedure, please make
sure that you have ALREADY purchased all of the belts, gaskets
and parts that you will need to proceed. There is nothing worse
(in my book), than sitting, and having to wait for parts to come in.
I purchased all of the gaskets and other such materials that I would
need well in advance of starting the work. This will save you a lot
of time, and headaches later.
PLEASE make sure that you read through these instructions at least once
before you actually start this work, it will save you some time
later on.
NOTE: In order to keep this document to some reasonable length I will
be shortening some proceedures that I already have written up.
I will also not be hitting every single nut and bolt and all of
the specific tool combinations unless of course it happend to be
a difficult one to reach or undo. Most all of the nuts and bolts
are reasonably reachable, only on those that presented a specific
problem or challenge will I give specific details on "how I did it"
so as to keep this document to a reasonable length, and of course
not everyone has the exact same combination of tools that I have
or is trying to do the work on exactly the same car/engine
combination as mine.
NOTE: make sure that you have purchased all of the gaskets, O-rings, moly
assembly lube, turbo oil pipe and other parts that you will need
provided that you are doing both the head gasket change and the
timing belt change. Even if doing the timing belt change, make sure
that you go through that section of the manual and check the leading
section that shows the exploded view of the parts for removal and
install. I went through that section and checked all of the
gaskets that had the diamond attached to them, meaning that, that
part was a non-reusable part. Make sure that you have all of these
parts and gaskets before starting the work, and this will make
things go smoother so that you are not waiting for parts.
I also used a lot of small wire brushes, towels, shop rags, cleaners
Kroil penetrant oil, silicone grease.
All together as far as just the gaskets go, I spent a total of
almost $300 dollars just for gaskets, of course including the $50+
bucks for the stock head bolts.
NOTE: This document is written in respect to doing this work on a
1993 MR2 Turbo 3S-GTE engine. I am sure that some of these
proceedures would work for the 5S-FE engine, but many will NOT.
The 5S-FE engine, in respect to these proceedures, is very much
different than the 3S-GTE.
I will make a stab at listing all or most of the tools that I used for
all of this work:
TOOLS USED SECTION:
-------------------
10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm standard and deep sockets
19mm deep impact socket 1/2 drive (for crank pulley bolt)
24mm openend box end wrench (to hold the cams)
27mm 1/2 drive socket (banjo bolt for turbo oil pipe)
various extensions, 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, and 1/2 drive extensions
universal joints, 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, and 1/2 drive
10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm open end box end wrenches you will need both
6 point and 12 point wrenches.
12mm 14mm offset box end wrench 12 point.
1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, and 1/2 drive ratchets
Inch lbs, foot lbs torque wrenches I mainly used one 3/8 drive torque
wrench that goes up to 76 foot lbs I also used a 1/2 drive torque wrench
that goes up to 150 foot lbs, but used it to re-torque the crank bolt
at 80 ft/lbs, and also I use it to put the lug nuts back on the wheels
at 76 ft/lbs of torque.
standard set of pliers
small set of vise-grip pliers
various standard slotted and philips screw drivers.
small 1 inch gasket scraper
a 1 ton arbor press (to press the timing belt tensioner)
1/16 inch drill bit or small hex allen wrench (for the timing belt
tensioner)
shop lights
small mirror
small flash light
small dential pick
10mm hex drive bit (for removal and install of the head bolts)
Section I: Draining Fluids
Draining Coolant
----------------
Proceedure Start
----------------
NOTE: this proceedure assumes that you are going to remove and replace
both the head gasket and the timing belt.
As I have specifically outlined the draining and refilling of the coolant
in another document at the MR2 WEB site, then this is all I will have for
this section. Please refer to how to change coolant at the MR2 WEB site.
Also included here is to drain your oil. I will detail some specific
proceedures here.
Proceedure to drain oil on a 1993 MR2 Turbo
-------------------------------------------
Tools used
----------
14mm socket 3/8 drive
3/8 drive ratchet
6 inch sharp pointed hole punch
6 inch extension bar or (I happend to have a large drill blank)
short piece of 200mph tape, or duct tape
small hammer
Parts used
----------
6 qt. oil drain container (I recycle my oil at Schucks)
shop rags (one or two will do)
Proceedure
----------
Open the engine lid, and unscrew the oil filler cap and set it aside.
Position the 6qt oil drain container (with the top lid off), of course
under the oil pan, (NOTE: no real need to jack up the car.)
Using the 14mm socket and 3/8 ratchet drive, loosen the oil pan
drain bolt and remove it and allow the oil to drain.
NOTE: this assumes that the engine has had some time to cool, I would
not recommend doing this on a very hot engine.
Now using a small piece of duct tape, tape the punch to the end of the
extension (or drill blank), so as to make the overall device about
12 inches or so, and position the hole punch in the center of the
oil filter. Now using the small hammer, (easily), drive a small hole
into the top of the old oil filter. The hole should be about 1/4 inch
in diameter.
Let this set for about 5 minutes while the oil from the pan and the oil
from the filter are draining.
Now check the oil at the pan, and see that it is at just a drip or so
then using a shop rag, wipe the outer surface of the oil pan where the
bolt and the washer touch and clean it off, free from dirt.
Then clean off the bolt and the surface where the washer contacts the
oil pan, then screw the bolt back in place, and apply a moderate amount
of pressure using the 14mm socket and drive. I do not remember any
specific ft/lbs of torque for this specific bolt, just tight enough so
that you don't break it off or over torque it. Some may want to change
out the fiber washer, that's up to you, check the washer and see if it
needs changing, if not just use it again. I still have the original
fiber washer and it is working just fine.
Now you are ready to unscrew the oil filter. And NOTE: if you put it on
hand tight like you are suppose to, then you will not need a fancy wrench
to remove it. You should be able to reach down and twist it off with
one hand.
Remove the oil filter, and NOTICE: that it does not leak any oil now.
The center punched hole should have allowed all of the oil in the filter
to drain, so that you don't have a mess of oil running down all over
the engine block and exhaust pipe.
Note: while the engine is torn down and during the proceedure you may want
to do one of two things, either keep a rag over the oil cooler where
the filter screws on or keep a new filter screwed in place until you
find that it gets in the way, and it will, then cover it with
a rag.
Now you should have the coolant and the oil all drained.
NOTE: as you take the engine apart, especially on the drivers side of the
car, where the majority of the hoses are, you will find small
pockets of coolant when you pull a hose off, so be ready.
NOTE: this proceedure outlines how to change out the head gasket and
also the timing belt. I do not necessarily have them listed as
seperate proceedures as I was doing both at the same time.
So you may want to read through this proceedure and then follow
only what pertains to the work YOU are going to do.
Proceedures to start disassembly
--------------------------------
One of the very first things you can do is to loosen the crank pulley
bolt. Just about the only way you are going to get it loose is like this.
Using a 19mm impact deep socket 1/2 drive, 6 inch 1/2 drive extension
and an 18 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar, with the rear wheel removed,
and the distributor to coil wire removed, put the 19mm socket on the
bolt head and then turn the crank around so that the breaker bar rests
up against the flat face of the disk brake caliper. Make sure the bar
is straight up and down, and not off at an angle. Then have an assistant
just "blip" the starter, and I do mean just "blip it", it only takes just
a split second and the bolt will come loose. Make sure that your fingers
are not in the way, I was easily able to hold the end of the breaker bar
so that it did not slide off the bolt head or away from the face of the
brake caliper.
Then when you are ready to put the bolt back on when your finished and
tighten it down, it is very simple. Put the car in 5th gear, and then
pull the parking brake handle tight as you normally would, and then click
it one more click beyond that, just to make sure.
Put the same socket and extension bar on, and this time connect it to
a large torque wrench, with the torque wrench set to 80 ft lbs.
then setting on the floor to the rear of the car, pull back on the torque
wrench, and you will be suprized just how easy it is to pull just 80 ft
lbs, which really isn't much more than the lug nuts on the wheels.
That's all there is to it, works great.
NOTE: at this point I am going to note that almost every single bolt
and nut on the 1993 MR2 Turbo is one of four sizes:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm there are of course a few notable
exceptions:
Turbo oil cooling pipe large banjo fitting: 27mm
CAM end 24mm
NOTE: there are several places where both the proceedure to remove the
head, and the proceedure to remove and replace the timing belt
run into each other, one notable place is the front engine mount.
When I get to that point I will explain what I did.
In the shop manual turn to the section for either timing belt replacement
or the section for cylinder head removal and follow the proceedure almost
word for word.
CRUISE CONTROL BRACKET BOLT
---------------------------
The first sticking point that I ran into is the third bolt that holds on
the cruise control cam gears and springs. This is the center part over
next to the side of the intercooler. I found it necessary to remove
the engine hanger first. Make sure that you use a good spray penetrant
as many of these steel bolts that are secured into aluminum are subject
to metal differential corrosion, and can be quite a bit of a challenge to
remove. One of the bolts for the engine hanger, a short center one,
later twisted off and broke, so I would suggest checking these bolts and
note also that there were ten or so altogether that I had to replace
either because they were too badly rusted or would not take torque and
almost broke off.
Please note, that I am not giving step by step proceedures here. I am
giving guidance as necessary to suppliment the shop manual proceedures.
I had to use a combination of 10mm socket and universal joint and 3 inch
extension to finally remove that third bolt from the cruise control.
It took about 10 minutes just to get that one bolt out.
NOTE: I removed the RH engine hanger first before trying to get at the
bolt on the cruise control.
If you follow the book on this you should be OK.
You may find an easier way of getting at it but as it is very tight
under there with the intercooler in place.
I removed the engine hanger, NOTE: make sure that you disconnect the
connector that goes to the AC clutch actuator, (if you have AC).
NOTE: I bagged everything in plastic sandwich bags and put a label on
each bag and then kept the bag and the part together, also when
the part was small enough, I put the part in the bag with the
nuts and or bolts that held it in place.
NOTE: to save yourself some time you may want to build yourself a little
stool or platform at least 6 inches high so that you can have
enough hight to reach things inside the engine bay while the car
is jacked up.
NOTE: most of the time I was working on the car I had it up on jack
stands. Make sure, as others have previously announced, that
you position the jack stands so that they are under the specific
jacking areas, any too far forward, or any too far back could have
very bad consequences as others have explained. You could bend
the skirt of the car if too far back from the jacking point or
you could break the weld joint and cause the car to fall off the
jack. So be carefull.
NOTE: at the point where I was ready to remove the cruise control I took
pictures to see how the cables were connected, you will have to
loosen the right side nut on the accelerator cable as it goes into
the cruise control housing. Try not to move both nuts, on mine the
left nut stayed in place, if you move both of them then you will
have to reset it so that the accelerator cable is not pulled too
hard or is not pre-tensioned if it is it could change your idle
speed. The accelerator cable as it goes into the housing crosses
over in front of the intercooler, that is one of the reasons why
you will need to remove the cruise control first before trying to
remove the intercooler. This should be detailed in the shop manual.
NOTE: also, this is not mentioned in the shop manual, but it really helps
to remove the fire wall heat shields this helps in to areas,
removing the intercooler, and also removing the turbo charger.
Of course, this assumes that you are going to do both the head
gasket change and the timing belt change.
AIR CONDITIONER PUMP REMOVAL
----------------------------
In order to remove the AC compressor, you follow the shop manual, and
remove the parking brake cable, remove the cable guides, one bolt is a
12mm and the other two are 10mm (go figure), then slide the cable
retainer off using a pair of pliers and then using the same pair of
pliers remove the locking pin. There is a really odd shapped pin
retainer it should just simply pull out of the pin, just make sure you
are pulling on the correct side of it.
AGAIN NOTE: make sure that you are putting the parts in plastic sandwich
bags "AS YOU REMOVE THEM" otherwise it is very easy to get
distracted and then completely forget where the bolt came from
what part it was holding on, and any other notes that you may
need to take during the proceedure.
There are some bolts, the bolts that hold the clutch assembly in place
that you will need to make a special note where each bolt goes, as there
are several different sizes of bolts and each one goes in a specific
place.
Also note, when removing the AC compressor, I loosened an additional
pipe clamp that the shop manual does not show. If you follow the pipes
as they come off the AC compressor, you will run into an additional
pipe clamp that holds the pipe in place. Not only loosen the ones that
the shop manual shows, but go down the length of the pipe, and loosen
the next one in place, you will see them, they are easy to find, they are
held in place by 10mm nut and bolt. The reason I did this is fairly
obvious, it will allow more flexing of the pipe so as not to kink it or
bend it at too sharp an angle.
NOTE: also when you pull out the third bolt holding the AC compressor in
place, you will want to make sure that you have a piece of small
rope or nylon cord ready to tie it up.
I did not tie it to the strut rod as suggested, I tied it to the
protrusion that holds the parking brake clamp. NOTE: I had the
bolt screwed into the hole so that the nylon cord had something
to hold onto so it would not slide off.
NOTE: here's the trick to removing the center bolt on the AC idler pulley.
You will like this one as it will save you a lot of time.
First from the top, using a 14mm socket, loosen the idler pulley
screw that tightens the drive belt. After doing this then pull the
drive belt off so that the idler pulley can then be screwed all
of the way back up. When you have screwed the belt tensioner
bolt (accessed from the top), so that the idler pulley is as far
up as it will go, then you have almost a straight shot on the
idler pulley bolt, that difficult third bolt from under the car.
Here is what I did. I used a combination of a 12mm 1/4 drive socket
an adaptor from 1/4 -> 3/8 and then an adaptor back from 3/8 -> 1/4
the reason being is that the short 2 inch or so 1/4 extension that
I happen to have was just a little too long to fit, to the drive
adaptors, in combination, just happened to be the right length.
I then used a 1/4 drive ratchet, and then an 11mm deep socket on the
end of a 3/8 drive extension and used this combination to get at
the bolt. With the idler pulley up out of the way I did not need
to use a universal joint on the end of the 12mm socket as there is
a straight shot over to the bolt head. This same method can be used
to put the bolt back on.
NOTE: to put the bolt initially back in place I used a magnetic
wand to balance the bolt on the end of the wand and slide it
up into place, this took several tries as the bolt would stick
to the pulley on the way up and fall off the end of the wand.
But I did get it. If you have someone handy with very small
hands, then you might have them place the bolt, but they
would have to have very small hands.
NOTE: while removing things, you can easily switch from intake side and
exhaust side, and not have to follow the shop manual word for word.
You can proceed to remove the intake side, including the throttle
body stay, the throttle body itself, the fuel rail, you do not need
to remove the injectors from the fuel rail unless you are going to
either have work done on the injectors or are going to replace them.
NOTE: also as you remove things, the parts you want to remove will be
coming off in some logical format, and you will see very quickly
as you are removing things, if that part has to have any other
parts removed first before it can be removed.
ALSO NOTE: you really will come to hate these squeeze hose clamps.
If there were a standard pair of pliers with a head that was
just a little bit wider, or as I am sure there is, a special
tool that does nothing in its life except remove squeeze hose
clamps, then if you happen to have one, you can use it.
It will be your best friend. :^)
HOSE REMOVAL
------------
When removing hoses you will want to follow the hose to check both ends
so that you can find the easiest end to disconnect, there are several
places that I found that it was much easier to remove one end of the hose
verses the other end, simply because it was easier to get at.
In most all cases, there really was no need to remove both ends of the
hose unless you see a real need for it.
In this respect, (removing hoses), you do not necessarily want to follow
what the manual says, word for word, the problem being is that if you
did, you would be causing yourself about twice the work that you needed.
Example: the hoses on the throttle body, the book shows disconnecting
both ends of the hoses, you don't need to do that, disconnect only one
end and leave the other on. Pick which end of the hose is the easiest
to remove and pull it off. Also for some of the larger hoses, I gripped
with the pliers around the hose at the fitting area and moved it in a
twisting fashion so as to break the hose loose, they tend to stick
themselves to the fitting, which makes it difficult to remove.
One trick that I did on re-assembly is to use a cloth on the larger hoses
and a Q-tip on the smaller ones, and wipe just a little Black Magic
Tire Wet on the inside of the hose, makes them slide back on real easy.
REMOVING THROTTLE BODY STAY
---------------------------
While removing the throttle body stay, the two bolts that go down into the
valve cover were EXTREMELY rusted, I was very suprized that I was able to
remove them even with a good spray penetrant, you will find that these
bolts will have to be replaced, and then any of the steel bolts that are
going down into aluminum, I smeared a good quanity of silicone grease on
them before replacing them, hopefully this will help keep them from
rusting so badly, so that next time I pull the engine apart, the bolts
won't snap off due to corrosion. Make sure that you spray any of the
bolts that go into aluminum with a good spray penetrant several minutes
before trying to remove them, and you should do as I did, not break off
even one bolt because of corrosion.
NOTE: when purchasing replacement bolts, I did not find it necessary to
get exact replacement bolts from the Toyota dealer, all of the bolts
that I had to replace could be purchased from the metric bolt
section at my local NAPA dealer, for substantially less than you
would pay from the dealer. Or any very well stocked hardware store
should have a metric bolt section.
NOTE: also in reguards to this bolt buying, all of the bolts except
the bolts that are used in the exhaust section of the car
can be replaced this way, but because of the special nature
of the exhaust bolts DO NOT TRY TO USE JUST ANY BOLT OR NUT
ON THE EXHAUST SIDE OF THE CAR, OR THEY WILL WELD THEMSELVES
IN PLACE, I GUARANTEE IT.
NOTE: during the process of removing things, especially on the intake
side and on the drivers side where all of the hoses go to the
outlet water tree, make sure you take plenty of pictures, and
tag the hoses. I used masking tape, which I later found out was
not such a good idea. It tends to get sticky and messy, and what
you have written on the tape can be smeared off if you are not
careful to avoid it. When I do this again, I think I will use a
tag and string method, write what I need to on the tag, then cover
the writing with tape to keep it from being smeared off, and then
tie the tag with a string to the hose. Of course if you have
a better method, please speak up.
The bolts on the throttle body are mostly 12mm bolts.
NOTE: when removing the throttle body, you really do not have to remove
the cold start injector. I did anyway because I wanted to clean it.
Of course you will have to remove the gas line that feeds the cold
start injector.
Also make sure that you cover the cold start injecter gas line
as it connects to the fuel rail, to ensure that you do not get
any dirt into the line.
NOTE: the wire connector that goes over to the cold start injector is
held on by a fine wire clip. I had to use a dential pick to
hook the wire clip and pull it off. Do this very carefully as
it is easy to have it go flying off to who knows where.
This wire clip technique is the same as the connector that is on
the air intake, if you remember that one, except the one on the
cold air injector cable clamp is much smaller.
NOTE: when you get to the RH engine mount
you need to put a jack under the oil pan
you will need to do this first and take the load off the RH
engine mount before removing it.
I used the stock tire jack with a small piece of 2X4 on top of it
positioned just under the oil pan so that it can be used to jack
the engine up when removing the RH engine mount.
NOTE: this is where the two proceedures, changing out the head gasket
and changing out the timing belt run into each other.
The issue is the two engine mounts the front engine mount and the
right hand engine mount. What has to be done is before you remove
the RH engine mount do this:
NOTE ON REMOVING AND REPLACEING THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNT
-----------------------------------------------------
The proceedure that shows to remove the clutch cables has you
removing the Front engine mount. What I did was this. I removed
the engine mount through bolt, the engine mount bracket, the two
bolts that hold the clutch plate and the engine mount bracket in
place, then using a stack of 6 washers that matched the thickness
of the clutch plate, put the Front engine mount bracket back in
place. You do not want to jack around on the engine with both
the front and right engine mounts removed. Don't Do It!
This allows you to remove the clutch plate, and clutch cables and
get them out of the way, which then allows access of the TWC
TWC stays(braces), and the fun Turbo Banjo Oil return Bolt.
NOTE: when removing the TWC you will find it much easier to first
remove the TWC heat shields and then the TWC itself, this way
you can then get at the TWC stays (braces), much easier.
Also note that you may have to loosen the right hand TWC stay
(brace), so that you can remove the TWC. Of course you will not
be able to remove or loosen the right had TWC brace until you have
removed the AC compressor, if you don't have AC, the you don't get
to have as much fun :^)
REMOVING THE TWC STAY
---------------------
The left hand TWC stay was removed with a short 3/8 drive breaker bar
and a 14mm short socket and then push for all your worth.
Also make sure that you take pictures of how the clutch cables are
arranged so that you can get them put back correctly.
The one upper bolt on the turbocharger stay really does not have to
be removed, just the two lower ones that go into the engine block.
Remove the front one first and then the rear one. On many of these bolts
you may want to use a 6 point socket rather than a 12 point. The six
point will keep you from damaging the bolt head, but at the same time
will not give you much of an arc for the tool to move in. I fixed this
for the most part by pulling the socket off the end of the drive and
turning it and putting it back on. Some of these more difficult bolts
it would not be wise to use a 12point socket.
You will find the TWC stays (braces) very challenging to remove. It just
takes some time. You will get them.
REMOVING THE RIGHT HAND ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET
-----------------------------------------------
The key to removing the RH engine mount bracket is to jack the engine up
via the oil pan, to the point where you think that it just can't go any
further. In fact I was sure that the oil pan was going to collapse under
the strain, you will then be able to twist the bracket around and get
it out. You will need to remove this RH engine mount bracket before
trying to remove the intercooler because of the long tang that sticks
up on the right side also it must be removed inorder to change out the
timing belt and get at the timing belt tensioner. You will also need to
remove it in order to remove the top timing belt cover.
You will want to make sure that you place covers or stuff a CLEAN rag
into areas such as the turbo intake, the intake manifold, the intercooler
and several of the large water hoses so that nothing falls into them.
Also on the gas lines, stuff a bolt in the end and put the hose clamp
back on so that you are not leaking gas fumes all over everywhere.
Also since I have a gas water heater in the garage, and the car is going
to be sitting like this in the garage for several weeks, I kept a small
fan running next to the water heater so as to keep the air stired up.
This way if any gas fumes fall down to the floor, and that's where they
go, then there would be no way they could accumulate to a sufficient
air fuel ratio and cause an explosion.
REMOVING THE CRANK PULLEY AND LINING UP THE TIMING MARKS
--------------------------------------------------------
When you are ready to remove the crank pulley, follow the shop manual
and line up the #1 cylinder to TDC making sure that you check the
timing marks on the cam gears that they line up with the o mark on the
gear itself. There is a | mark in the #3 timing belt cover that will
line up with the o mark on the gear. Make sure that both the crank
pulley mark, and the timing gear marks line up before you remove the
crank pulley. Otherwise you will have to jack around on the engine again
to put the crank pulley back on and line them up.
In order to see this you will have to use a small hand mirror and angle
it in front of the CAM gear so you can see the face of the gear and the
timing cover mark at the same time. You will then be able to see that
the marks line up.
The trick to removing the crank pulley is to lower the engine, and lower
it to the point that you are almost, not quite, taking all of the slack
out of the jack. On my pulley, I did not need either of the special
tools, (SST's) called for, as when I was ready to pull the crank pulley
off, I just reached up with one hand and pulled it off. It all but
slid off the the crank shaft by itself. Then when you pull off the
crank pulley, then jack the engine back up to just about its normal
position, this will remove the strain from the front and rear engine
mounts.
NOTE: that the book shows removing the intercooler before removing the
RH engine mounting bracket. This may or may not be possible.
It will not be very easy because the RH engine mounting bracket
sticks out far enough that it will hit up against the intercooler
as you try to angle it around. You may also find it easier to
remove the intercooler if you first remove the forward heat shields
the book also does not show this. It will also be much easier to
pull the turbo out if you remove the forward heat shields first.
This gives you just that little more room you will need to move
things around.
The book also shows removing the AC idler pulley, pulley. This does not
need to be done. The bolt that holds the pulley on is on very very tight
and you will not be able to get it off with it still in the car.
And you don't need to anyway, so save yourself some work.
SEQUENCE OF PARTS REMOVAL
-------------------------
You may want to wait on removing some parts. I removed most of the parts
that were under the car first, like the disconnecting the exhaust pipe
from the TWC and removing the TWC itself, and the TWC brackets (stays),
and the clutch cables, before removing the RH engine mount.
The problem being that since the weight of the engine will have to be
supported from the a jack under the oil pan this somewhat limits your
movement under the car. Also I was somewhat uncomfortable working
under the car with the engine supported by the oil pan, one bad move
under there an you could end up with a lap full of engine. Not a fun
thought. So I would suggest getting most of the bolts out and parts out
under the car first before you remove the RH engine mount.
NOTE: you will not be able to completely remove the exhaust pipe. The
way the book shows to remove it, it has to be turned around and
unless you can jack the back end of the car up three or four feet
off the ground, then I would suggest leaving it and just tieing
it up in place with some cord. It really doesn't get in the way
much and can be worked around.
NOTE: on page EG-42 steps (c) and (d) you really do not have to do this.
The entire #4 air intake pipe, can be removed by disconnecting
the one hose clamp that couples it to the turbo output, the hose
clamp that couples it to the intercooler input, and the two hoses
that couple to the pop off valve (a.k.a.) bypass valve, a.k.a.
blow off valve. Remember these proceedures also include notes to
remove and replace the head gasket, not just the timing belt.
NOTE: I did not find it necessary to remove the distributor and I also
did not find it necessary to remove the oil cooler or the water
bypass pipes. This will save you a lot of work. BUT MAKE sure that
you remove the bolts that hold the water bypass pipes to the
cylinder head before trying to pull the cylinder head up.
NOTE: on page EG-85 you do not need to do these steps:
37. a, b, c, d, e,
38. b
NOTE: when removing the T-VIS, and VSV and its associated parts and
hoses, make sure that you take pictures and tag the hoses and
connectors so that you can easily hook it back up when the time
comes.
WARNING: on reassembly, when you are putting the #3 timing belt cover
back on, the book shows the WRONG torque spec. The book shows
an absurd 78 Ft/Lbs of torque, this MUST be a miss print.
I might believe 78 In/Lbs but NO WAY 78 Ft/Lbs.
NOTE: when removing the cylinder head for head gasket replacement, you
WILL have to remove the INTAKE CAM inorder to remove all of the
head bolts.
WARNING: DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT re-use the head bolts. These are
TTY or (Torque To Yield) bolts, they CAN NOT be re-used.
NOTE ABOUT REMOVING THE INTAKE CAM
----------------------------------
When you remove the intake cam and its associated bolts and bearing caps
BE VERY VERY CAREFULL WITH THESE PARTS, AND MAKE SURE THAT YOU KEEP THEM
TOGETHER AND IN ORDER. The bearing caps are marked with numbers so as to
help you keep them in order. I also kept all of the bolts in order.
When I removed them I had a towel that I set the parts on and layed them
down in order keeping the bolts that go with that bearing, with the
bearing they originally went with. Also while the CAM is out of the
engine, you WILL want to cover over the bearing surface with a soft cloth
or towel to make sure that you do not drop something onto the bearing
surface and that you DO NOT SCRATCH the bearing surface.
When re-assemblying the intake CAM make sure you use some moly grease
assembly lube before setting the CAM back onto the bearing surface.
You DO NOT want to re-assemble the CAM with the bearing surfaces dry.
Use a good assembly lube.
Also when removing and when re-assemblying the CAM, make sure that you
follow the books instructions on loosening the bolts in sequence and
in tightening the bolts in sequence.
You WILL NOT have to remove the exhaust CAM.
NOTE: when you get down to the part about un-torquing the cylinder head
bolts, make sure that you use the (UN-TORQUING) sequence in the
book, because it IS NOT the same as the TORQUING sequence.
DON'T GET THEM MIXED UP.
Also note that if you are not going to do any extensive work on the
cylinder head then you can skip all of the cylinder head dis-assembly
proceedures. But do make sure that you clean the cylinder head up and
clean all of the carbon off the valves and the combustion chamber.
I did inspect the operation of the T-VIS using a little hand pump to
make sure that it did freely move the butterfly valves when pressure
was applied.
WARNING: in handling the cylinder head, the valve lifters and shims
combination, will slide out of place if the cylinder head is
turned upside down or tilted far enough over. Make sure that
if any of the lifters slide out, that you put them back in
their original position, as there are both intake and exhaust
lifters, and they are not the same.
When removing the intake manifold, you can use a combination extension
what I had to do was hook together my 14 inch and 6 inch extension bars
and then using a 12mm socket for the bolts and a 12mm deep socket for the
nuts, along with a universal joint.
When removing the intake manifold you will first remove the VIS I did
this from under the car, you will not be able to reach it from on top.
NOTE: as I said before. You really do not have to follow the shop manual
word for word, and in some cases you really do not want to as it
will cause you a lot of extra work. You should be able to see
fairly quickly the logic of removing and then re-installing things
and the part you want to remove and or install will require
some other part to be either removed or installed first.
For the most part the book is OK, but anytime you see something
that looks wrong, like applying 78 Ft/Lbs of torque to a small
little bolt that goes into the aluminum cylinder head, then yes
QUESTION IT.
One issue that the book is dealing with is the inspection and
checking the individual operation of some of the parts. You may
or may not want to do this. As some of the parts, if you follow
the book (exactly step for step), will require a lot of extra work
and really not be necessary to do. I would suspect that a good
visual inspection of the parts will be sufficient, unless you have
some specific reason to believe that the part is defective in some
way. If so then, by all means, remove it and inspect it.
Another area that does not need to be done is for the timing belt
proceedure, the crankshaft timing pulley does NOT have to be
removed, neither does the oil pump pulley. Again, here the book
is going into a "remove it and inspect it" proceedure. Unless you
suspect that this part is really defective for some reason, then
I would leave it on, and visually inspect it in place.
NOTE: on the timing belt replacement proceedure, make sure that you get
the crank set to #1 cylinder (cylinder closest to the crank pulley
end of the engine, or a.k.a. as the front of the engine, make sure
that you get #1 set to TDC, Top Dead Center and the timing mark on
the crank shaft and the timing mark on the #1 timing belt cover
and the o marks on the CAM gears and the | marks on the #3 timing
belt cover and the marks on the CAMs align with the grooves on the
camshaft bearing caps.
I did not find it necessary to move the crank after having aligned
all these marks initially. If you need to move the crank when you
have the timing belt off, then make sure that you have it back
in the proper place. Remember that if you move it, and rotate it
as you should, clock wise, then the crank has to come around
TWO FULL TURNS inorder to be lined back up.
NOTE: I did not find it necessary to have to purchase the SST's required
to pull the crank shaft pulley off. But such may NOT be your case.
Just in case such an event was necessary, you could use the
universal puller the Harbor Freight sells, I found that it fit OK
but also found that I did not need it, as I was able to just reach
over with my hand and pull the crank pulley off with ease.
Also when installing the crank pulley, I did not find it necessary
to torque the crank pulley bolt until almost the very last thing
before I had the engine completly back together, just before I was
ready to actually start it up. This crank bolt torquing is
explained earlier in this proceedure.
NOTE: CAM gear bolts, how I removed the bolts.
The CAM gear bolts were very difficult in that they were torqued on
and lock tight was used, I would guess a very high grade in that
my best guess is that it took almost 200 Ft/Lbs of torque to loosen
the CAM bolts. You may want to invest in the specific SST that the
shop manual calls for, or you could have a welding shop make one up
for you, or if you do your own welding you could easily make one.
All it is is basically a shaved off 14mm socket welded to then end
of a long extension shaft such that the combination is thin enough
that it can slip onto the head of the CAM bolt and clear the
strut tower also.
That is NOT how I did it. What I did was this, and it really wasn't
a very good idea, but it did happen to work.
I took a Sears Craftsman 14mm 6pt open-end box-end wrench and also
a 32mm open-end box-end wrench, with the box end of the 14mm wrench
on the head of the CAM bolt I then slid the open end of the 32mm
wrench into the open end of the 14mm wrench. The 32mm open end was
just thick enough that it made a good coupling to the open end of the
14mm wrench. With this combination I had sufficient leverage to
loosen the bolt. NOTE: also placing a 24mm open-end wrench on the
CAM itself (ie.(the intake CAM), and wedging it against the
side of the car frame (make sure you have towels down, plenty of
towels to protect the finish on the car.
The 24mm wrench on the CAM itself will keep the CAM from turning
under the torque. As the book says, DO NOT USE THE TENSION OF THE
TIMING BELT TO KEEP THE CAM GEAR FROM TURNING.
Now, back to loosening the intake CAM bolt. With the combination
of the 14mm open-end box-end wrench, and a 32mm open-end box-end
wrench, with the two open-ends of the 14mm and 32mm sloted together
then keep them straight, and put all of your weight, and lean into
it, and it will come loose. But even for me, I weight in at 200 lbs
and use to do power lifting in the Navy, even for me it was a bit of
a strain to say the least. For someone smaller and not as muscular
it may not be possible. Then I would suggest purchase of the SST
that the shop manual suggests, because I also cheated on the install
and re-torque of the intake CAM bolt. I torqued the exhaust
bolt first, (which is very easy to put a torque wrench on), and then
by use of my calibrated wrist, :^) I then torqued the intake CAM
to (approx.) the same torque. NOTE also that I used 242 thread
locker on these bolts when re-assembled. I did not use 242 on all
bolts, but only on those bolts that were in fairly important areas.
CAM TIMING ADJUSTMENT
---------------------
I will insert this section here so that if you want to make this
adjustment to the cam timing, you can do it before you put the
timing belt back on.
I adjusted the cam timing and advanced it so as to allow the engine
to develop more low end torque.
The proceedure is like this. For my engine, the stock setting was
that the steel pins were center/center. What I mean by that is this
as you look at the cam gears and the cams themselves, you will see a
set of three holes in each. The holes in the cam gears are somewhat
wider spaced so as to create an offset between the cam gear holes
and the cam holes. The stock setting was that the steel lock pin was
setting in the center cam gear hole, and the center cam hole.
If you look at the drawing on page EG-69 section (e) you will see
that there is only one way you can go from the stock position and
advance the cam timing. The cam needs to be moved in the counter
clockwise direction, and the only position that will offer this
advance is the right position. It appears that the book where it
says, "By changing the pin hole to the next two, the crankshaft
pulley angle can be adjusted by approx. 5 degrees" assumes that the
starting position (or stock), position is that the steel pin is in
the left most set of holes. Then the first set, the center set,
would be the first position, ie.(2 degrees advance), and then the
second set ie.(the right set), would be 5 degrees of advance.
So judging from this then, from the stock position of center/center
then I would have advanced the timing 2 more degrees to the
right/right position.
NOTE: that I adjusted BOTH the intake and exhaust cams the same
amount.
TIMING BELT TENSIONER
---------------------
The timing belt tensioner is a story in and of itself. This is one
piece of work. Given that the two bolts that hold the timing belt
tensioner on only torqued to 15 ft/lbs one is very surprized that it
can hold and keep the feeler gauge measurement in spec.
I would highly suggest that you REPLACE the two bolts that hold the
timing belt tensioner irreguardless of what they look like when you
remove them. I had one of them that would not take torque, and I
almost snapped it off, even at only 15 Ft/Lbs of torque.
The removal of the timing belt tensioner is really not very difficult
at all. It is the re-installation and getting it to spec that is
a lot of fun.
First of all what is needed is a way to put tension on the timing
belt idler pulley WITH OUT having to do it with the tensioner.
Because once you have released the tensioner, and then something is
wrong, then you have to take it off and put it back on again.
(After the third time you get fairly good at it).
So here is what I did. You may have to find some other way of doing
this, but this is the only way I could figure out how to do it with
the tools I had.
First I had to find some way of putting tension on the idler pulley
so that I could get the timing gears to line up with there marks.
After my first attempt to do this of course I found out the the
timing gears were one tooth off their alignment marks. So I had to
take the tensioner back out, and try to adjust the timing belt.
But you will find it very difficult to do that because you have to
turn the crank around twice to take up the slack in the timing belt
and re-align the timing marks. So what I did was to put together
two 3/8 drive extension shafts, and using a folded rag, butt one end
of the extension shaft up against the small anvil of the idler pulley
and the wedge the other end of the extension shaft up against the
rear wall of the engine compartment. This then applied sufficient
force to the idler pulley so that the timing belt could be aligned
without having to use the tensioner to do it.
Then comes the fun part of getting the timing belt itself aligned.
You see that the problem comes in that when the CAMS are aligned to
their marks, that (I believe it was the #4 cylinder) is on its
exhaust cycle or intake cycle, anyway, the lifters are being pressed
down. Now as you know this creates a lot of force on the CAM so
what happens is that it pushes the CAM "just off its timing mark".
Well here is a time when it would help very much, to have two people
helping together. First, you have to use a 24mm wrench on the CAM
itself, (you will see the hex end of the CAM end), and bring the
CAM back over to its timing mark alignment and hold it there.
Then at the same time slip the belt off the gear, (do only one
side at a time), slip the belt off either the intake or the exhaust
gear, move the gear one tooth over and then slip the belt back on.
Then holding the other CAM in place with the 24mm wrench slip the
timing belt off that CAM gear and move the CAM gear over one tooth
(of course assuming that it was off by one tooth), and then slip
the timing belt back on. Then with the artificial timing belt
tensioner (ie.(extension shafts)) in place, turn the crank over two
turns, (always turn the crank clock wise), then take the tension
out of the timing belt and then realign the timing marks and check
that ALL of the marks line up. If not, then go through this
proceedure again until they do line up.
Without some way of artifically putting tension on the idler pulley
I had no way to tell if all of the timing marks were lining up
BEFORE I put the tensioner back on.
Once all of the timing marks line up then you can proceed to
putting the tensioner back on.
Installing the tensioner. You can use either a 1/16 drill bit as I
did, or you can use the small allen wrench as the shop manual
suggests, it is all about the same. I found that grabbing the drill
bit with a pair of pliers was easier to do, also the drill bit seemed
to slide out easier than the allen wrench, but as I said either will
work. Even after using them several times I did not break either
one.
In order to press the timing belt tensioner pin back down you will
need either an arbor press, or a 4 or 5 inch bench vise, or you
probably could do it with a large C clamp.
NOTE: when pressing the tensioner pin back down, it should take
approx 20 to 30 seconds to fully compress the pin so that you
can get it in place so that you can slide either the 1/16
drill bit or the small allen wrench in the small hole that
will hold the pin in place while you are mounting it back in
place, and torquing the bolts.
If you try to press the tensioner pin down TOO fast you could
damage its hydraulic mechanism.
Before starting to press the pin down, put some oil or some kind of very
slick lube on the allen wrench or the 1/16th drill bit before you slide
it into the tensioner pin hole as this will make it easier to pull it out
when you are ready to do so.
I know you will say as I did, I can't believe that this drill bit can
hold back all of that force, but it must have some kind of trigger
mechanism, so the position that the pin is held to does not allow the
release of its full energy until the pin is released and allowed to move
some thousandths of an inch out from that position.
Of course now comes the trick of putting the tensioner back in place when
you are ready to, and also making the (0.071-0.087) thousandths spec.
NOTE: also on page EG-53 and at the bottom of page EG-54 these steps are
so that the belt tension can be adjusted so that you can move the
tensioner over into place, the book also shows just one finger
pushing over on the butt of the tensioner, I found that I had to
push for all I was worth on the butt end of that tensioner inorder
for it to finally be in spec when the pin was released, and then
it was just bearly in spec. Step 13 (b) moving the crank 5/6 rev
over to the 60 degree ATDC mark doesn't really make much sense.
I really did not see that it had much effect, and anyway, in order
to do it, since the timing marks were already lined up, you would
then have to go around two full turns to do this alignment.
I really don't see the purpose of it.
I also used 242 thread locker on the two bolts that hold the timing belt
tensioner in place. I purchased two new bolts for the timing belt
tensioner over at my local NAPA dealer, the bolts were about 50 cents ea.
You will be working with a hand mirror a lot when you are doing all of
this work on the timing belt tensioner. You may also want to jack up
the engine a little to give yourself just a little extra room between
the engine and the strut tower.
TURBO OIL RETURN BANJO BOLT
---------------------------
This requires a 27mm socket. When you are down to the point that you are
ready to loosen this bolt, you will have already removed the TWC and its
associated braces, and also will have moved the clutch cables and the
clutch plate.
So with the 27mm socket in hand, from under the car, reach up with your
right hand and place the 27mm socket on the banjo bolt head. Then move up
to the top of the car, leaning over the drivers side of the engine then
slide a 12 inch 1/2 drive extension bar down in between the coolant pipe
on the turbo and the turbo housing, and then use an 18 inch breaker bar and
put it on the 12 inch extension, then move over to the passengers side of
the car and pull, (note it is usually easier to pull than to push), then
pull on the breaker bar and the bolt will come loose rather easily.
Then you can either from the top, or from the bottom, loosen the bolt up
and then from the bottom, pull the bolt out of the banjo fitting, and
then make sure that you get the gaskets also. You can put it back on
in about the same way, but I found it much more difficult to put the bolt
back on because of the gaskets.
TURBO CHARGER REMOVAL
---------------------
When you get ready to remove the turbo, unless you are fairly large, and
muscular, then you may want someone to help you do this. Otherwise this is
how I did it.
NOTE: as I said before, make sure that you remove the front engine bay
heat shields as this will give you some critical elbow room that you
will need in removing and then reinstalling the turbo.
Of course all of the other brace bolts from below were removed. I then
loosend the two lower turbo nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust
manifold, leaving the two upper ones. I then removed the drivers side nut
leaving only the passenger side nut holding the turbo in place.
Getting a good grip on the turbo with my right hand, I then with my left
hand removed the one nut the rest of the way releasing the turbo.
I quickly set the nut aside and then grabbed the turbo with both hands
and carefully brought it over toward the opening where the intercooler
goes. Since the oil pipe can not be removed before the turbo has to be
pulled then you can fully expect to purchase a new turbo oil pipe, and
its associated gasket as you will bend it up pulling the turbo out.
Not to worry, a new pipe and gasket only cost about $30 so it is not that
bad. Then you will need to turn it around a little, and then pull it up
and out of the engine bay.
This pulling of the turbo required a lot of physical strength, not many
will have the strength to do this. I suspect (not having actually weighted
it), that the turbo weights around 50 to 60 pounds. So if you can imagine
leaned over the engine compartment, and at the same time pulling this very
awkward device from the engine bay without dropping it, it was difficult
at best. Although I do not see an easy way for two people to do this as
one would tend to get in the way of the other. And not having tried it
I am not sure if you could lower the turbo down instead of pulling it up
and out. You might have someone, that would be a check from the bottom
that could push on the turbo, and take some of the weight off while the
person from the top did the maneuvering. I would guess that each will have
to find out their own answer on this issue.
You will also find that you will have to remove the water inlet and
thermostat so that you can have enough room to pull the turbo out.
The book doesn't show this, and also shows the turbo being removed fairly
early on in the proceedure. You will want to have everything over in that
area out of the way, including the RH engine mounting bracket, the
intercooler, of course the cruise controller, and the coolant hoses on that
side, there is one large coolant hose that goes from the coolant inlet
and thermostat, down to a large 1 inch or so coolant pipe that returns the
coolant from the radiator. Also if you have AC (air conditioning), you will
need to have the air conditioner compressor out of the way before you
attempt to pull the turbo out, and or re-install it, this will give you
sufficient room to maneuver the turbo so you can pull it up and out
of the engine compartment.
You do not have to remove the water bypass pipes, and I also did not have
to remove the oil cooler. This will save you a lot of work.
NOTE: during the removal of the turbo charger, two of the studs came out
(NOT BROKEN), but completely came out. The reason being is that the
nuts have a boss area on them that at the factory, they crimp down
so that it can not vibrate loose. In some cases this crimp is so
good that when you try to remove just the nut, the ENTIRE stud will
come out instead. If this is the case, such as I had happen, then
here is how you deal with it. Using two of the nuts from the
exhaust manifold double nut one of the studs that has a stuck nut
on it, then holdin that either in a vise or in a pair of vise grip
pliers, then using a box end wrench turn the crimped nut off the
stud. Once this is done, then put the stud back in place where it
belongs on the turbo, and then again using the double nut and a
6pt box end wrench turn the stud back down in place. I used a little
mallet and gave the box end wrench a few whacks just to make sure
that the stud was REALLY torqued down good.
As for re-torquing the four nuts holding the turbo on, you will not
be able to get a torque wrench in there to properly torque the nuts
down, so I used a box end wrench, and again CAREFULLY whacked the
wrench with a mallet to make sure that the nuts were torqued down
real good. For the ones that I couldn't do this on I just made sure
that they were torqued down very good. So far, after over 1500 miles
of driving, they have not come loose.
REMOVING THE EXHAUST CAM
------------------------
You will have to remove the exhaust side cam in order to loosen and pull out
the right side front head bolt on the exhaust side of the head. Why the
engineers designed it this way, I will never know, but it has to be done.
I did not remove the intake side cam, and it does not have to be done
to pull the head off. So save yourself some time and hassle and leave
the intake cam in place, of course unless you intend to do any further work
on the head.
Make sure that you follow the proceedure for this in the shop manual, it
shows the sequence that the bolts have to be loosened in, in order to
properly remove it. I laid all of the parts out on a towel, out of the
way so that nothing would happen to these parts. It is VERY easy to
scratch the surface of one of these bearings given that they are made out of
aluminum. So be careful.
Once the exhaust cam is removed and laid carefully out of the way then
you can proceed to loosen the head bolts and remove them.
NOTE: you will have a bit of a problem removing the old cam bearing seal.
If you are careful not to scratch the bearing surface, then you can
use a bearing seal remover to pull out the seal, or you can carefully
tap on the bearing cap with a rubber mallet to loosen the seal.
I used a seal removal tool that grabs the lip of the seal and pulls
it out.
NOTE: in replacing the new seal make sure that you use some moly lub when
re-assembling it, and I just used one of the old seals and a small
rubber mallet to set the new seal in place. On the exhaust side you
have the advantage of having the bearing cap removed, on the intake
side you don't do this so using the seal puller is an option.
Also on the intake side you have a good swing with the rubber mallet
to put the new seal back in, one of the old seals works great to
push the new seal back in place so that you don't have to have some
special SST to do it.
LOOSENING THE HEAD BOLTS AND REMOVING THEM
------------------------------------------
I made three uniform passes over the ten head bolts to loosen them.
So in other words, I did not completely loosen each head bolt all the way
for the first pass. You have to EASILY loosen each one of the head bolts
in several passes so that you don't damage the head.
You will find even with a large breaker bar, that it will be a bit of a
strain to loosen the head bolts, so take it easy and take your time.
NOTE: make sure that you are follwing the proper proceedure for LOOSENING
the head bolts, it is NOT the same proceedure or sequence that is
used for TIGHTENING the head bolts. The proceedure for LOOSENING
the head bolts is on page EG90.
NOTE: when you are ready to actually remove the bolts be very careful when
doing so, so that you do not drop the washer back down into the
engine. Each of the head bolts has a thick washer. I used a magnetic
probe to remove them. The reason you will need to remove them is
because you will need to tip the head over in order to clean the
carbon build up off the valves.
NOTE: also that each of the lifters (there are two different types), one for
the exhaust and one for the intake, make sure that if any of these
slide out, that you get them put back in their proper and original
location. When I tiped over the head, three of the lifters slid out
so be careful. They must NOT be mixed up.
For this proceedure I used a 10mm hex wrench that I purchased over at my
local Sears store. If you order the so called "SST" from your local
Toyota dealer, they you will get the exact same thing, except it will cost
you a LOT more. Believe me the 10mm hex wrench works just fine.
NOTE: also that the 10mm hex wrench I bought at Sears, and unless there are
others made differently then here is what I had to do. The Sears
hex wrench, the head of it, is only about an inch long or so, and fits
into a socket drive piece. The fit of the hex wrench piece into the
socket drive is not very good, and it can easily slide out. Also
the fit if the 10mm hex wrench into the bolt head is very very tight
so make sure that the hex wrench is properly seated each time before
you start applying torque. The problem is that in the process of
removing the hex wrench from the bolt head there is the possibility
unless you are VERY CAREFUL, that you could drop the hex wrench end
down onto the head, and they it could easily fall into one of the
holes and windup in the oil pan, or worse, get hung up inside the
engine somewhere. So I used a magnetic probe each time I had to
remove the hex wrench head from the bolt head, or use a small pair
of needle nose vice grip pliers. This way you will make sure you
have a good hold on the hex wrench each time, and not drop it down
into the engine.
Also at this point, and for the whole time that the engine internals are
exposed, be extra careful about handling parts over the top of the engine.
It is very easy to accidently drop something, or have something slide off
and drop into the top of the engine. And especially at night when you stop
work on the engine for the day, cover it with a clean towel so that bugs
and other things can't crawl into it.
As you take your time and remove each of the ten head bolts you may want
to note their condition and for further study you may even want to keep
them in their proper order, if so then put ten spaced holes in a piece of
card board and put each of the head bolts in its proper position in the
card board, they may be useful later to reveal additional information.
LIFTING THE HEAD OFF THE BLOCK
------------------------------
At this point now, you will be ready to actually lift the head off the
block. I would suggest NOT trying to do this by yourself, as it is
awkward enough and just heavy enough to be very difficult for just one
person to try and lift off.
NOTE: also that I left the engine hanger hook on the drivers side
(left side), for easy handling.
My wife and I easily lifted the head straight up and off and set it down
on a clean towel.
But before doing this, take a good look around and make sure that you have
removed all of the obstructions. Make sure that the clamp bolts for the
water bypass pipes are removed so that you don't accidently try to pull up
the water bypass pipe at the same time.
NOTE: at this point, as I may not have mentioned this previously, that
contrary to what the manual says, it is not necessary to remove
either the oil cooler or the water bypass pipe in order to pull the
head. So I left them in place. It will save you some time, and
an extra gasket or two, and a special socket that you will have to
get inorder to remove the oil cooler.
NOTE: Also it is not necessary to remove the distributor from the head.
At this point, after the head has been CAREFULLY lifted off the block and
set down on a clean towel, it is time to do some clean up work, both on
the head, and on the block where the head gasket goes.
NOTE: VERY IMPORTANT:
I is very important that you CHECK each of the head bolt holes for debris
oil, coolant, and other such stuff that might partly fill the bottom of
the head bolt hole. One of the #4 cylinder head bolt holes had oil in it
if I had tried to take the head bolt to torque, with the oil partly filling
the bottom of the hole, it would not only give me a WRONG torque reading
but could break the block by building up an extreme pressure at that point.
So be VERY CAREFUL and check each of the ten headbolt holes, clean them out
and make sure that the bolt can turn all the way down to the bottom of the
hole. Some use a tap and run it down each hole. I used one of the head
bolts. I also used a shop vac with a small end hose and plastic fitting
that was small enough to fit into the head bolt hole and sucked out the
oil that was in the one #4 cylinder head bolt hole.
I also used a shop vac while scraping and cleaning where the old head
gasket was so that none of the debris fell down into any of the holes
in the block. I also cleaned the piston tops and very CAREFULLY cleaned
any debris that were laying around on the tops of the pistons.
Be very careful not to scratch any of the wall of the cylinder.
REINSTALLING THE HEAD BOLTS
---------------------------
NOTE: that for most of the parts, I waited until time to reassemble them
before cleaning the part. Always make sure that you clean the parts
good before reassembling them.
After you have scraped all of the old head gasket material off the block
and made sure that the head bolt holes are clean and free of debris and
fluids and also after you have done a good cleaning of the head, the valves
of course unless you intend to have the head sent off to a machine shop
and have it worked on, then you are ready to put it back on.
One thing that has been suggested by some is that while you have the head
off, that you should take it to a machine shop and have them check it for
warpage and make sure that it is flat and level to within the noted spec.
In some cases this may save you a lot of hassel later down the road.
You may also want to have a complete valve job done at this time depending
on how much money you plan on spending.
If at this time you are ready to re-install the head, then with two people
lift the head up and position it on the two corner pins and set it down
in place. Be careful not to move it around much when centering it on the
pins or you could scratch the surface, remember it is only made out of
aluminum.
NOTE: also when cleaning on the head, be very very careful not to scratch
the surface. It is aluminum, and is soft and can be easily scratched
by a miss directed scraper or a slip of the hand. And finding a new
head and paying for it is not what I would call fun.
Of course this assumes that you have ALREADY positioned the new head gasket
in place on the block, and checked to make sure that it is in the proper
position and the proper side is up.
You and your friend, grab hold of the head and lift it up carefully and
position it down onto the block on top of the new head gasket.
You will probably not hit the pins dead on the first shot, so carefully
move it around until you get it positioned properly.
When you think you have it in position then set it down and check that it
is seated properly all the way around.
Turn to the shop manual to the page that shows the sequence to tighten the
head bolts, it is on page EG-106 NOTE also that this sequence is
DIFFERENT than the sequence to loosen the head bolts.
I used four passes to take the head bolts to the spec. 36ft lbs of torque
10 20 30 36 ft/lbs
Before starting to torque any of the bolts, make sure that you coat the
threads of the NEW bolts (never use the old bolts), with engine oil and
also make sure that the head of the bolt and the washer on both sides is
coated with engine oil before starting to torque the bolts. This is VERY
important so that you get a TRUE torque reading. Remember these head bolts
are TTY (Torque To Yield) bolts so they should NEVER be used AGAIN, always
use NEW bolts.
Follow the proceedure in the shop manual and first torque in four passes
for the 36 ft/lbs of torque, making sure that you coat each bolts threads
and head and washer before starting to torque them. Also be careful with
the 10mm hex wrench. On the new bolts I found it especially tight to fit
the hex wrench into the bolt head and get it properly seated. You may even
have to do as I did, and use a small rubber mallet and tap the 10mm hex
wrench into the bolt head to get it to seat properly. PLEASE make sure
that the 10mm hex wrench is seated properly before attempting to apply
any torque to the bolt.
After having properly taken each bolt in four passes to the 36 ft/lb level
you are now ready to torque the bolt to yield. This proceedure is again
shown in the manual on page EG-106 again make sure that you follow the
proper sequence shown. As for the manual they show using a mark of paint
on the bolt head to indicate when you have turned it 90 degrees, I did not
do this, I used a tungsten-carbide tip scribe and put a scratch on the
bolt head. After you have marked each of the bolts then use the proper
sequence and in one smooth move, turn each of the bolts, in proper sequence
around 90 degrees. Check and make sure that each was really turned 90
degrees, and that finishes torquing the head bolts.
REPLACING THE INTAKE CAM
------------------------
Replacing the intake cam is fairly simple, just follow the proper proceedure
shown in the shop manual. Make sure that you coat each of the bolts with
engine oil so that a proper and true torque can ge obtained. Also make sure
you follow the proper tightening sequence as shown in the shop manual.
I completed these torques in three passes 5 10 and 14 ft/lbs.
Make sure you set the cam back down on the bearing surface VERY carefully.
I used a moly assembly lube to lube up the bearing surfaces before setting
the cam down in place. Also make sure that you line up the distributor
shaft key with the key in the cam shaft, when setting the cam down in place.
Then lube the top bearing caps with some assembly lube and then put some
engine oil on the bolts threads and washers and heads and set them in place
on in the caps and using the picture given in the shop manual, use the
proper tightening sequence, for three passes to tighten the bolts to their
14 ft/lb spec. I also inserted the front cam bearing seal on the intake
cam. With the #1 cylinder at top dead center, the rear or distributor
side of the cam will be high and the front will be low because of the
position of the cam lobes on the lifters at that engine cycle.
This is not a problem, and as the bolts are slowly torqued to spec the
cam will come down and seat properly on the bearing surface.
DO NOT rotate the cam while you are doing this proceedure, or after you
have finished, this will reduce the risk of scratching the bearing surface.
TIMING BELT COVERS
------------------
The proceedure on page Eg-108 step #4 install no.3 timing belt cover
shows INCORRECTLY a torque of 78 ft-lbf which is probably suppose to be
78 inch lb someone left out the "in." if you look over to the bottom
of the next page, EG-109 you will see the proper notation for torque for
the head cover screws of 21 in. lbf so be careful, there are several other
places that the torque specs are typed in wrong, and I would highly suggest
trying to verify the torque spec by finding it listed somewhere else in the
manual, and check and make sure that they match, and of course always use
some common sense.
REASSEMBLY PROCEEDURES
----------------------
For most of the rest of the reassembly proceedures you will be following
the book just about right down the line, of course unless you are doing the
same thing I am and doing two main proceedures at the same time. You will
find yourself flipping back and forth between the timing belt proceedure
and the cylinder head removal proceedure as you begin to put things back
together. REinstalling the timing belt is one of the more difficult
proceedures in the work, and will eat up a lot of your time if this is the
first time you have done this.
Refer back to previous sections in this proceedure for the timing belt
tensioner installation.
INSTALLING THE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
----------------------------------
When installing the cylinder head cover, make sure that you clean all of
the parts the cover itself, and the phillips head screws. I did use some
242 thread locker on these screws to ensure that they will stay down to
torque and not come loose as they did from the factory.
As for the the preperation for the cover install, you will need to have
purchased the part number 08826-00080 seal packing, which is not much more
than a tube of black silicone caulking. The drawing on page EG-109 of
the shop manual shows where the bead of caulking goes there are 6 places
around the two front bearing caps and on the other side where the
distributor is. Then also make sure that you have cleaned up the surface
of the top of the cylinder head and removed all oil and or grease and also
cleaned up the head cover itself and installed the new gaskets on it.
NOTE: the head cover takes two gaskets, a smaller inner gasket and a much
larger outer gasket that runs around the perimeter of the cover.
Also note that I did not have a torque screw driver so I just used my
calibrated wrist and torqued the screws down in place.
NOTE: from this point on you can switch between doing either the intake side
or the exhaust side unless of course you find a point at which they
interfere with each other. I started with the exhaust side, and put
the exhaust manifold back on.
INSTALLING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
-------------------------------
The exhaust manifold is very straight forward, not too much involved, make
sure that you are using a new set of gaskets when you install it.
You need to make several passes or rounds while putting the exhaust manifold
back on. This is to ensure that all of the nuts are torqued to spec.
I used several passes 10 20 30 and 38 ft lbs. You will need to go around
several times, as what happens is that when one nut is tightened then
others will become loose. So for each torque pass, you do not make just
one pass you will make several passes, all together I made about 15 or 20
passes to complete all four torque passes.
REINSTALLING THE TURBO
----------------------
Make sure that you have a new gasket for the turbo to exhaust manifold
fitting. As I have explained previously, the turbo is very heavy and is
very difficult to handle. If you are strong enough you can as I did, grab
the turbo, and position it in place, but it is a bit of a trick getting
the gasket on and at the same time sliding on the turbo. You may want to
use something to hold the gasket in place while you are positioning the
turbo. As for me, I just held the turbo with one hand and put the gasket
on with the other. You might be able to use some scotch tape and tape
the gasket up, then slide on the turbo, and then remove the tape.
NOTE: DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN ALL OF THE TURBO MOUNTING NUTS BEFORE INSTALLING
THE TURBO BRACES otherwise all of the holes for the bolts will not
line up. At least they did not on my 1993 MR2. As for your setup
it may have worked out differently. Leave all of the nuts and bolts
loose until all of the stays (braces) are in place and you have
started the bolts. Then you can torque them all down.
INSTALLING THE INJECTORS AND FUEL RAIL
--------------------------------------
There really isn't much to intalling the injectors and the fuel rail.
It is very straight forward just follow the manual on page EG-110
NOTE: on all of these bolts, especially the ones that are steel going
into aluminum, then make sure that you clean up the bolts first.
INSTALLING THE TVIS AND INTAKE MANIFOLD
---------------------------------------
Installing the TVIS and the intake manifold take some real team work between
you and your wife, as I did, or you and a friend. I really do not see how
(and yes I tried it), you can do it by yourself.
NOTE: make sure that you are following both paths (in case you are doing)
both the timing belt and the head gasket change out. If so follow
both sections in the book so as not to miss anything.
NOTE: make sure that you clean all of the parts very well, and that you
wire brush all of the bolts, nuts and studs especially the steel
bolts that either go into or hold together aluminum parts. The
problem you will see is that you will get metal differential
corrosion. Also in order to try and stop this type of corrosion
I coated the studs and bolts with silicone grease before
reassembling them, this will slow and in most cases stop this type
of metal differential corrosion.
As far as installing the TVIS and the intake manifold, I first put on the
gasket for the cylinder head to TVIS side, and then the TVIS, you have to
do a bit of a balancing act but you can get it to stay on the studs long
enough to get the rest of the stuff on there.
Then put on the gasket for the TVIS to intake manifold side once you have
that combination balanced on there then position the intake manifold
itself. With your assistant holding the intake manifold almost in place
then crawl under the car, and guide the intake manifold onto the studs
and get one of the nuts started. I chose to start the center nut instead
of one of the end ones mainly because it is a little easier to reach by
hand from under the car. Once you have one of the nuts started on one of
the studs, then getting the rest of it is fairly easy. Inorder to tighten
and the same to loosen the nuts and bolts for the intake manifold, I used
a very long set of extensions, and fed it up through the top of the
cross member and over to the bolt and or nut. You will need to use a
universal joint on the end in order to get at them properly.
Again this was one of the more difficult operations to do but not impossible
and certainly not having to remove the engine to do it.
When re-torquing the bolts for the intake manifold, make sure that you do
it in several passes, so as to maintain proper torque on each nut and bolt.
Also what I did with these bolts and on the studs, since these are steel
bolts going into aluminum, and holding aluminum parts in place, then you
will find that several, if not all of the bolts and studs are very
corroded. In order to stop or at least curtail this type of corrosion then
before re-assembling these parts I coated the studs and bolts with some
silicone grease.
NOTE: basically from here on just follow the re-install proceedures in the
shop manual making sure if you are doing both proceedures ie.(the
head gasket and the timing belt) that you follow both tracks so that
you do not missing anything.
WIREING HARNESS
---------------
NOTE: at this point, while at the same time as re-installing the wireing
harness that goes in the lap of the intake manifold, make sure that
you position the fuel line in preparation to installing the fuel rail
and the injectors. Don't do as I did, and get the throttle body
completely installed and then find out that you did not re-position
the fuel line. If you do, it is a real SOB to get it back in place.
Also note that the shop manual does not tell you that you need to
position the fuel line for the fuel rail before re-installing the
throttle body and all of the rest of the associated parts, so make
sure that you position the fuel line that connects to the fuel
rail before you get very far into the re-install or you will have
a lot of fun trying to get it put back on.
So proceed with positioning the wireing harness you should be on page EG-111
of the shop manual, at the top of the page now. Another thing is to make
sure that when you plug in the connectors, that you double check yourself
and make sure that you are getting the connectors in the right place.
In most cases, because of the way the parts are made, they will basically
fall back into almost their proper position. And in most cases it would
be difficult if not impossible to plug the connector into the wrong place
because it would not fit or the wire on the connector would not be long
enough, so in other words, do force anything, if you have to force something
to fit, then something else must be wrong, back off and take another good
look at it and you should see what the problem is. For example the
connectors in step 11. c,d,e,and f on page EG-111 all have a specific place
that they go. None of the connectors can be plugged into where another
belongs, because they are all different and unique. Make sure that you
also refer to the pictures that you were supposed to have taken before you
took everything apart. These pictures will come in very handy when putting
everything back together. I used the pictures I took quite a number of
times in order to ensure that I had everything back in the proper place and
also to make sure that I had everything back in place.
INSTALLING THE T-VIS
--------------------
Page EG-111 at step 12 is the T-VIS, it is very simple, and straight forward
to do. Again this is one place that I used the pictures I took to make sure
that all of the hoses and connectors were all back in their proper places.
There are a couple of the hoses that can get a little confusing if you
don't have a picture to remind you where they go. Also make sure that you
have tagged the hoses and where they go. This also will ensure that you
don't missing something, or get something hooked up wrong.
When installing the connector back on the alternator, make sure that you
clean up the connectors, and make sure you apply silicone grease to the
inside of all of the connectors. Clean up the wire contacts going to the
alternator so that they make good contact. I also applied some silicone
grease so as to try and stop the corrosion.
INSTALLING THE NO.1 AIR TUBE
----------------------------
I found that installing the NO.1 air tube, on page EG-112 at the top of
the page a bit of a challenge. The issue is getting it properly oriented.
It is also somewhat of a challenge to get the little bolts that hold it in
place, back in place as the space there is somewhat cramped. Check the
pictures that you were supposed to take, and make sure that you are getting
it position properly.
NOTE: on the water bipass pipe. Since I already outlined that it was not
necessary to remove this in the removal stage, then of course you need
not re-install it.
Again, continue to follow the shop manual at this point on pages EG-112 and
EG-113.
NOTE: also I did not find it necessary to remove the oil cooler. So the
proceedure on page EG-113 need not be done.
NOTE: I later found a problem with the O-ring on the end of the dip stick
tube. What I found is that the old one, which should have been
replaced with a new one, was not sealing sufficiently. Oil was
leaking, well actually being blown out of the fitting where the
dip-stick tube goes into the block. This leaking, of course was due
to the O-ring on the end of the dip stick tube.
The way I solved this problem, as the new O-ring was not sufficient,
so to buy an oversized O-ring, and then using a drill motor and
mounting the O-ring on the end of the socket shaft, and using a piece
of sand paper, I shaved down the larger O-ring so that it JUST did
fit. This made for a much tighter fit, and I have not had any oil
leakage since.
In my opinion, and experience, the stock NEW dip stick O-ring will
not be sufficient to make a good seal and will start leaking
especially if you bump up the boost as I have.
ALSO NOTE: make sure you position and install the oil dip stick tube as
soon as you can in the re-assembly, because it is a real SOB
to do afterward. It took me over two hours to pull the
dip stick tube, and replace it simply because it is so tight
in their, and because you really can't see what you are doing.
Oh yes, if you do wait until the last thing to do this, you will
have to remove the oil filter inorder to see where to place the
dip stick tube, otherwise you will be fishing around for hours
on end trying to get the end of it stuck into the fitting in the
block.
On page EG-114 of the shop manual it shows reinstalling the oil pressure
switch. I did not find it necessary to remove the oil pressure switch.
When installing the hoses on the water outlet tree, make sure that you
double check them, and check all of the pictures that you took, to make
sure that you get all of the hoses back in their proper places. It is
fairly easy to forget one, and also easy to get one in the wrong place.
INSTALLING THE WATER OUTLET TREE
--------------------------------
NOTE: this section would only be for those that are doing the
head gasket change.
You will find the water outlet tree to be very much of a challenge. It is
fairly difficult to get the bottom screw started. I found that the thread
locker was harding before I could get the screw started.
You will need to take special care with this as it is so difficult to get
it positioned properly and at the same time keep the gasket from sliding out
of place. Be careful not to damage the surface of the gasket when trying
to start the bottom bolt. If you keep working at it, and don't get PO'ed
then you will get it, it just takes a little time. What is even more fun
is getting all of the hoses hooked back up to the water inlet tree.
There is a very short hose that connects to the water tree over to the
water bypass pipe. This is a very difficult hose to deal with unless you
partly connect it while you are putting the water tree on. Otherwise it
is very difficult to install since the hose is so short. What I had to do
was slide both of the hose clamps off and position them on the fixture tits.
There was no way to bend the hose with the hose clamps on the hose.
Once that was done then I bent the hose in the center, and started both ends
at the same time on each of the fixture ends, one on the lower left side of
the water tree and the other on the water bypass pipe end. Once this was
done, and it took some doing to get it in position, then you can force it
on in place. I also put some Wesleys Black Magic silicone on the ends of
the hose, (inside), so that the hose would slide on easier.
After working with it for about 10 minutes or so I was finally able to get
the hose on, and get the clamps on in place. This is another one of the
really difficult areas you will find when putting this part of the hoses
back on. I am sure that someone can come up with a better way to do this
but at the time, that's the way it worked out.
INSTALLING THE TURBO OIL PIPE AND THEN THE TURBO
------------------------------------------------
WARNING:
The shop manual does not warn you about alignment problems with regard to
the install of the turbo, and the turbo braces, or stays. The problem I
ran into was that there is an alignment problem with the turbo itself
the braces, the turbo oil pipe.
You will need to at least start the bolts that hold the turbo braces on
inorder to get everything lined up so that it will all fit back together.
What I found was that after I tightened all four of the turbo nuts and had
also tightened down the banjo oil pipe fitting, that the braces that hold
the turbo would not line up so that the brace bolts could be put in place.
I wound up having to remove the banjo oil pipe bolt and gaskets, and
loosening up all four of the turbo nuts inorder to get the brace bolts
to fit. So the moral of this story is DON'T TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS OR NUTS
ON THE TURBO BEFORE GETTING ALL OF THEM AT LEAST STARTED IN PLACE.
This will save you a lot of time and pain later.
NOTE: this section would only be for those that are doing the
head gasket change.
NOTE: at this point I diverted to installing the turbo.
NOTE: you will bend up the turbo oil pipe taking the turbo out, so you
should have planned for this long before you started the work.
A new oil pipe only costs $26 so it is not that bad. Make sure you
get the gasket also.
Removing and reinstalling the turbo oil pipe, can be a lot of fun. This
piece is very tricky to remove and then reinstall.
To remove the old turbo oil pipe, unscrew the two nuts that hold it in place
and then you will have to CAREFULLY move it around until it comes up off
the two studs. Give yourself some time to play with it, as it will not
just come right up off the studs. You will have to move it and ease it
around until you find the right combination that will allow it to come up
off the studs. But once you have it properly positioned, it just very
easily comes right off. You need not force it, or cut it off or anything
like that. Be very careful with this, and make sure that you don't get
any dirt down into the turbo bearing. Also be careful that you do not
bend or damage the studs. Also reinstalling the new turbo oil pipe is
just about as difficult.
To install the new turbo oil pipe, first make sure that you follow the
steps in the manual under removal and installation of the turbo, and
pour some engine oil down onto the bearings. Of course some of this is
going to leak out when you turn the turbo back around to install it but
don't worry about that. So pour the oil down onto the bearing, and with
your hand spin the turbo shaft a little so that you spread the oil around.
Then position the new gasket on the studs on the turbo and then install
the new turbo oil pipe on the turbo. With the turbo laying down on
something, with the exhaust (hot side) on your right, and the cooler outlet
side on your left, they oil inlet hole should be up pointing toward you.
The wastegate actuator is up over to your left side.
Position the oil pipe, so that the rear section, the forward section is
where the big banjo connection is. Take the rear part and then slide it
into the top and then back and then down. I know, this is very difficult
to explain. But you will just have to play with it for awhile so that you
can see what I mean. Again, there is no need to force anything. When it
goes into place, it just falls into place, but it is getting the oil pipe
positioned properly that is the trick. Make sure that the gasket surfaces
are clean and free of any dirt and oil when you get ready to torque the nuts
down in place. Also later, I did find that this fitting leaked just a
little after I started the engine back up, but it didn't last for very long
and it cleared up. I did recheck the torque on the nuts, and it checked OK
I guess that when these gaskets go back together new, that it takes a
little time for them to properly seal, but it did.
Of course before you put the turbo back in place, this assumes that you
have already installed the exhaust manifold and torqued it down properly.
The exhaust manifold requires a lot of passes with a torque wrench to get
it properly torqued.
Since the turbo weighs so much, it will be very difficult to do by one
person. Since I weight in at 200 lbs and have done some fair amount of
power lifting when I was in the Navy, then I did not have too much problem
in lifting and holding the turbo in place with one hand, while grabbing a
nut with the other hand and turning it onto one of the studs in the
exhaust manifold. Make sure that you put the gasket in place also. This
is the fun part, because you have to hold the turbo with one hand and
slide the gasket onto the four studs, and then put the turbo back in place.
It is quite a feat of strenght, and may in some cases require the efforts
of two people to do it. Again, as I have mentioned earlier in this
proceedure, the book doesn't say it, but removal of the forward heat shields
makes for that "just enough" elbow room to slide the turbo into place
without bending up the new oil pipe that took you forever to put back on.
I am sorry, I just do not have any suggestions as to how you could
position the turbo if you are not strong enough to do it yourself.
I could take a guess that you may be able to have someone under the car
that could push up on the turbo and try to hold it in place while you
position the gasket and get one of the nuts started.
Otherwise, you may be able to rig a small hoist somehow, but it would
be difficult to attach a rope or nylon cord to hold the turbo on the
hoist. Needless to say it would be difficult. If you find this a sticking
point you may want to throw this question out the the MR2 and Toyota list
and find out how others have done this.
After I started all of the nuts onto the studs, I then hand torqued the
nuts down in place. The problem here is that you can not get any
conventional torque wrench onto the nuts to torque them. So you will
have to use a box end wrench, and give your best experienced guess.
I suspect that I used more than the specified torque on these nuts simply
because of two reasons, I couldn't get a torque wrench on them and also I
wanted to make sure that they didn't even think about comming loose.
It has been over a 1000 miles since and there is no sign of them
loosening yet. I did not use any more leverage than just the length of the
box end wrench, be careful not to over torque them or you could snap off
one of the studs, and that would not be fun. :^(
INSTALLING THE LARGE BANJO BOLT AND GASKET
------------------------------------------
NOTE: this section would only be for those that are doing the
head gasket change.
This is of particular fun, to get the two banjo bolt gaskets, and the banjo
bolt itself in place on the oil pipe fitting, and then get this whole
mess lined up and positioned so that the large bolt will screw down in
place. First make sure that the gasket surfaces are all clean. This will
not seal properly if there is any dirt. Crawl under the car with the
two gaskets and the banjo bolt, and position the bottom gasket first and
then slide the other gasket onto the banjo bolt, and then I reached up
with my left hand and jiggle it around until I got the bolt to start.
Needless to say I did not get this in the first try. I think all together
it took about ten tries or so before I was finally able to get it to screw
down in place.
To torque the banjo bolt down, then do this, with the 27mm socket crawl
under the car and set it in place onto the banjo bolt, then crawl out and
go over to the drivers side and position the 1/2 drive extension onto the
27mm socket. It may not go down all the way, but it should go into the
socket far enough that you will be able to torque it down. Then with
your 1/2 drive torque wrench set to the proper torque, then torque the
banjo bolt down in place, from the drivers side of the car, because it was
easier to pull the breaker bar, than it would be to push it. Make sure you
look up the specific torque for the banjo bolt in your shop manual.
Most of the rest of the re-install was just following the shop manual
proceedures.
Make sure that you have taken pictures, you will need to refer to them
during the stage of putting all of the hoses back in place.
NOTE: one step that is not put into the shop manual, is to install the
throttle body before installing the EGR valve. This will make things
go a little easier when re-installing.
NOTE: that when putting the throttle body back in place, and especially the
bolts that hold the throttle body stay, and spacer, these bolts are
very easy to rust, and the ones on my car were very rusted, I was
surprized that I was able to remove them with out breaking them.
When I re-installed the throttle body and with any of the bolts that
are steel going into aluminum make sure that you put a good coating
of silicone grease on the bolts before re-installing them.
NOTE: It is not necessary to follow the shop manual word for word as far as
switching from the intake to the exhaust side, I put in the intake
side first and then switched to the exhaust side. As far as this
goes, there is no real set way to have to do this.
INSTALLING THE TWC AND TWC STAYS
--------------------------------
When installing the TWC and its associated stays, make sure that you have
all of the little heat shields, I missed the little one that shields the
clutch cables and it was fun to put back on after the TWC was up in place.
The right hand TWC stay, was easier to install and torque in place from the
top rather than from the bottom, of course not so for the left one.
The right hand TWC stay you need a 6 inch extension, universal joint and
14mm socket and a torque wrench. It is a bit of a struggle but you can
torque the bolts down to spec. using a torque wrench. Leaning over the
car from the passengers side, looking down at the TWC.
As far as the left TWC stay goes, you will have to use your calibrated
wrist and your accumulated knowledge to torque these bolts, because you
will not be able to get a torque wrench in position to do the job.
Just give it your best guess. I used a 3 inch extension, 3/8 drive
3/8->1/2 adapter, 3/8 drive 14mm socket, and 1/2 drive ratchet.
Position it so that you come up and over on the drivers side over and
down on the bolts, where the clutch cables were. Of course this one has
to be done laying down of the floor looking up at where the clutch cables
would have been.
INTERCOOLER FINS
----------------
I used a straightened out dental pick to straighten out the fins on the
intercooler. I was not careful when I extracted it, and I bent up some of
the fins. So I went through all of them one by one, this takes some time,
and got them all back straight again. This will make a difference in
allowing the intercooler to work at maximum efficiency.
INTERCOOLER INSTALL
-------------------
I made sure that the SPAL fan was properly installed on the intercooler
and then just lower the intercooler into place and put the bolts in place
and tighten them down to spec. This has to be put in place before the
AC pump can be put back on.
AC PUMP RE-INSTALL
------------------
There isn't too much special about the AC pump, but you do need to take
some care putting the idler pulley back on. Mine later, came off.
So you will need to make sure that you use plenty of locktite on the nut.
Also when reinstalling the idler pulley, you will need to use a magnetic
wand to feed the one center bolt backup up into place. I also found that
it was easier to turn the adjusting screw so that the pulley itself
was all the way to the top, this made it a lot easier to get at the bolt
and tighten it.
WATER INLET TEMP. VALVE AND HOSE
--------------------------------
There isn't much special about this, other than making sure that you have
the jiggler valve in the proper position when it is put in place.
You will need an Inch/Pound torque wrench for these nuts.
NOTE: at this point make sure that you have all of the hoses back on.
I missed the one that is just up under the water intake, so make
sure you check.
CLUTCH RELEASE PLATE
--------------------
This piece and its associated bolts will give you some problems on reinstall
unless you put it back together loosely. Do not try to tighten all of the
bolts as you put them in. You may need a punch or a small phillips
screw driver to help line up the holes. You will probably not get the
clutch plate set back in place on the first try. It took several trys
and some time before I finally got it put back in place. You may want to
use locktite on these bolts.
HOSES, HOSES, LOTS OF HOSES
---------------------------
There are a lot of hoses to put back on, so make sure that you refer back
to your pictures so that you can see if you have all of the hoses back
in their proper positions. This is probably one of the biggest headaches
you can have if you don't take some time and check all of your work.
I didn't and it cost me a whole extra days time to fix what should have
been a simple check.
FINISHING UP
------------
Most of the rest of the work, putting the remainder of the parts back on
is straight forward, just follow the book. Make sure that you check things
the book, in the main routines doesn't always pick up all of the details.
You may and most likely will have to refer back to individual sections
for installation of specific parts. There are no other surprizes or
tricky parts left. All of the ones that I had problems with have already
been mentioned.
You will also want to run a coolant flush and run an oil flush. I used
the oil, after initial restart of the engine for about 100 miles driving
and then used a Quart of Kreen in the oil, and allowed the engine to idle
and run between idle and about 2500 rpm for about 10 minutes and then
drained all of the oil and put all new in. This is to ensure that if there
were any small dirt particles and shavings and stuff that got into the
engine when it was apart, then all of the would be flushed out.
Kreen, from Kano labs makes for a great engine flush.
I also use a good coolant flush in the coolant, this was run for the
recommended time on the bottle, about three or 4 days running, and then
it was drained out and new coolant was put in.
LATER PROBLEMS I FOUND
----------------------
As this document is being finished 4 months after the work was done, I will
include at this point any and all of the problems that I ran into due to
the fact that I did not check my work properly.
1. I did not check the coolant hose that runs just under the water inlet.
So when I went to put the coolant in, it poured out on the garage floor.
This took an extra 4 hours to fix due to its very difficult location.
2. After about a month, the nut came off the idler pulley on the AC.
I have not put it back on as yet, but it will not be easy.
When it came off, nothing else was damaged, but it could very easily
have been. Make sure that when you put this back on that you use
some locktite and torque it down to spec.
3. I did have a little bit of a leak around the turbo oil pipe where it
couples to the turbo housing. This leak only lasted for a day or so
and then went away, and has not leaked even a drop since.
I suspect that the new gaskets take a little while to settle in.
Otherwise so far, now over four months after finishing all of the work
there have been no other problems.
--
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+ +++ N E C +++ +++ A M E R I C A +++ +
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+ Marc L. Summers System Administrator +
+ 3100 N.E. Shute Road Hillsboro Oregon 97124 +
+ PH: 1-503-681-3338 FAX: 1-503-681-3304 +
+ Email: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com +
+ ---------- Sic transit gloria mundi. ------------ +
+ --- "Thus passes away the glory of the world." -- +
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