From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" <marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com>
Subject: Detailed Instructions To Install Stock Fuel Filter
To: uunet!validgh.com!mr2-interest@uunet.uu.net
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 10:36:27 PDT
Detailed Instructions on How to
Install a Stock Fuel Filter on
A 1993 MR2 Turbo.
NOTE: I would suggest that you allow the engine to cool off before
attempting this work.
NOTE: as with any of these proceedures, what you do to your car is
what you do to your car. This proceedure is as specified for
a 1993 MR2 turbo, it may or may not work specifically for other
year models, and as with any proceedure, please read it through
at least once before proceeding to actually do the work.
NOTE: Although I don't believe that it makes much difference, this
proceedure was outlined and done on a car that has the
HKS super power flow filter installed. If I remember correctly
I don't think that the stock filter gets in the way too much.
NOTE: If memory serves, I believe that the owners manual says
that the fuel filter on a 1993 MR2 turbo, should be changed
at intervals of 30,000 miles.
WARNING: since you will be working with gas, and it is extremely
flammable then I would make the following suggestions:
1. have no open flame source anywhere near
2. have more than adequate ventilation
3. use a safety drop light
4. have a fire extinguisher very near by
5. use a lot of common sense
Total time required from start through cleanup for this
first time change, about 1 hour.
Personal Note: as for me, there are many other types of fuel filters
available, and after having changed out one of these
being that it was not the hardest thing I have done so far
it was enough of a hassle, and expensive enough for the
replacement filter that I am considering using an after
market replacement fuel filter, located perhaps in a
more convenient location and with a replaceable filter
cartridge rather than having to replace the entire unit
for almost 30 dollars. Fram happens to make a nice unit
and the filter cartridges are only $10.
And one has to look at the specific design of this stock
filter and think, "What the hell were these engineers
thinking."
Tools Used:
1/2 drive breaker bar
1/2 -> 3/8 drive adapter
3/8 socket drive
1/4 socket drive
10 inch 3/8 drive extension
6 inch 3/8 drive extension
3 inch 3/8 drive extension
17mm socket 3/8 drive
10mm socket 1/4 drive NOTE: you could use an open end or box wrench
6 inch sutures (sissor like clamps that doctors use)
(NOTE: a pair of small vise grips would work also.)
stock car jack
torque wrench that goes to at least 22 ft lbs.
two large bath towels
one small hand towel
large 5000->10000 CFM fan NOTE: I had a three speed fan set on
the second speed.
safety drop light
Parts Purchased:
#23300-79275 fuel filter set Cost: $29.90 US dollars
(note: included four aluminum gasket rings.)
Initial Setup:
Since I did the work in my garage I will reference things as
though you were working in your own garage.
I setup the fan at the front of the car so that the air blows
back to the rear of the car and out the open garage door to outside.
This way there is no way there can accumulate any gas fumes.
WARNING: under any conditions, make sure that you have more than
sufficient ventilation.
OK ready to start:
Setup the stock jack under the drivers rear lift point and jack
up the car sufficient so that you can easily slide in and out of
under the car between the tire and the jack.
Personal preference note: you may want to break loose the top
screw on the old fuel filter before jacking up the car. Since I
am almost 6 ft tall I found it no problem to reach back down into
the engine compartment to do this, with the car jacked up.
So using the 1/2 drive breaker bar, the 1/2->3/8 drive adapter and
the 17mm socket plus all three extensions, the 10 inch, 6 inch and
the 3 inch, unless you have a 19 inch extension all in one piece,
reach down into the engine compartment and break loose the top
fuel line screw on the filter. NOTE: even with the breaker bar
it was a bit of a push to break it loose. NOTE: on my car there was
next to no fuel spilled out when the top fuel line was disconnected.
After breaking the screw loose then you can either reach down with
your right or left hand and unscrew it all the way out, or you can
easily slide under the car and reach the top fuel line screw and
remove it from under the car.
Once removed then check that the two old aluminum gaskets are off
the fitting, on mine one of them stuck on, and I had to knock it
off. Clean the screw and set it asside. Note: do not use the old
aluminum gaskets there should be four new ones in the fuel filter
kit.
Now locate your lockable 6 inch sutures or a small pair of vise
grips will do, slide under the car and clamp off the lower fuel
line in the short section just before the line gets to the bottom
connector of the fuel filter.
NOTE: at this point you may want to wrap a small hand towel around
the brake line to keep gas from running down the line and
up under the shield cover.
Now locate your 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2->3/8 adapter and 17mm socket
and 6 inch 3/8 drive extension, and slide under the car and break
loose the bottom screw on the fuel filter. NOTE: just break it
loose at this point unless you want a lot of gas comming down in
your face. Now slide out far enough to get out of the way and
with your towel or a pan or what ever you want to catch the gas in
start unscrewing the bottom screw all the way out. There won't be
too much gas, just what it in the filter mainly. Let it drain
until it stops dripping and in the mean time clean the bottom screw
and set it asside.
NOTE: if you used a towel as I did, remove it to outside, spread it
out flat and allow the gas to evaporate. (outside).
Now we are ready to loosen the two smaller screws that hold the
fuel filter in place. The gas should be done dripping. Locate your
10mm socket and 1/4 inch drive socket, slide under the car until
your head is about even with the end of the transaxle. You will be
able to reach up and loosen the left screw and then reposition
yourself and loosen and remove the right screw. Tilt the filter
over on its side and remove it.
Now we are ready to install the new fuel filter. Locate your new
filter and the two holding screws and position the fuel filter in
place and screw in the left screw finger tight, and position
yourself and screw in the right hold down screw and turn it down
finger tight. Now using your 10mm socket and 1/4 drive with no
extension, tighten the two screws tight. I do not know what the
specific torque is on these two hold down screws so I just used my
calibrated hand.
NOTE: it is more than obvious which way the filter must be
positioned to fit properly.
Now we are ready to connect the bottom fuel line, locate the bottom
fuel line screw and locate the plastic bag with the four new
aluminum gaskets in it. Get two of the gaskets and put one on the
screw first, then slide under the car and push the screw into the
gas line connector and then put the second aluminum gasket on and
then push the whole assembly up into the fuel filter and screw it
in finger tight. Now locate your 17mm socket, 6 inch 3/8 drive
extension and your torque wrench, make sure it is set to 22 ft lbs
and proceed to torque the bottom fuel line screw in place.
Now we are ready to do the top one, you might find it just a little
harder, but it was fairly easy to reach from under the car. So
locate the top fuel line screw and the other two new aluminum
gaskets. Put one gasket on the fuel line screw and slide under the
car and push the screw through the hole in the fuel line connecter
and then position the second gasket and push the whole assembly
onto the top of the fuel filter and hand screw it down finger tight.
Now I found it easier to torque the top screw in place from leaning
over the side of the car looking down into the engine compartment
rather than from underneath the car, there really isn't the room.
So now locate all three drive extensions, the 10 inch, 6 inch and
the 3 inch, the 17mm socket and your 3/8 drive torque wrench, and
lower this assembly down to the top fuel line screw and torque it
down to 22 ft. lbs.
Now slide under the car and remove the suture on the lower gas
line.
Now we are ready to clean up just a bit, make sure that all open
gas has been removed from the garage and put outside to evaporate.
Remove all of your tools from under the car.
Lower the car down off the jack.
Now we are ready to check for leaks and re-pressurize the fuel line.
Put the key into the ignition and turn it all the way over, but
do not try to start the car. Give the system just a minute to
re-pressurize the fuel line and fill up the new filter.
On my 1993 MR2 it only took a few seconds, about 15 seconds for it
to re-pressurize the new filter and the fuel line.
Now you can check for leaks, if you find one then quickly shut off
the key and find out what the problem is and fix it.
If there are no leaks you are ready to start the car. Start the car
and check that it is running normaly at idle.
Now you can shut off the car and finish up your clean up and your
done.
Marc L. Summers