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(See also "How to install dual intercooler fans")
From: "Marc L. Summers-SysAdmin" (marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com)
Subject: how_to_install_intercooler_fan
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 8:36:54 PDT
Detailed Instructions On How To Install
An Aftermarket Fan On The Intercooler Of
A 1993 MR2 Turbo
HISTORY:
Nov 19, 1995 - Added addendum on thermostat.
Jul 26, 1996 - Added part number for mounting kit
Oct 08, 1996 - Added note on stock wiring
REMEMBER: What you do to your car, is what YOU do.
PLEASE: make sure that you read completely through these
instructions at least once before you start so that
you have a good idea of what needs to be done.
WARNING: you will be working with HOT 12V wiring, so you may
want to remove the NEG. terminal from the battery.
I will leave this up to your judgment.
Personally, I did not find it necessary, but I tend to
be overly carefull when working with hot circuits.
Others may or may not be, so this is your call.
NOTE: this fan will make more noise than your stock fan but
it isn't that noticable from inside the car.
TOOLS USED:
10mm socket 1/4 drive
12mm socket 3/8 drive (the only one I had)
1/4->3/8 drive adapter
6 inch extension 1/4 drive
1/4 drive ratchet
25 watt soldering iron
60/40 resin solder
small wire cutters
sissors
large pair of channel lock pliers
Jewelers saw
dental pick tool or something similar
6 inch #2 phillips screw driver
very small standard screw driver to tweek the potentiometer on the
thermostat.
Someone with very thin arms, to reach up into the intake scoop and
press on the locking squares on the mounting ties.
PARTS PURCHASED:
RacerWholesale: 1-800-886-7223 (USA, Georgia)
7.5 inch Fan PN: SPA00358 $39.95
Fan Thermostat Kit PN: TRI-1001AH $29.95
TRI 5005 Quick Mount Kit $3.95
------------------------------------------
3M Super Strong Automotive Attachment Tape Cat. No. 03609
(this is some really sticky double sided, dense foam tape)
$4.99 for a 5 ft roll.
Various tie wraps, mostly 7 inch, (black) nylon
black electrical tape
Thermal Joint Compound, (this is a white compound that is used
on heat sinks to mount power transistors, you can get some
at almost any electronics store, I think even Radio Shack
has it.
4 5/16 or 3/8 star washers, these go on the two ground lug bolts
located on either side of the engine compartment under the side trim
panels.
NOTE: the temperature measurments that I have done before and after installation
of this fan, prove that it will give you at least a 25 degree temperature
differential from the stock fan, using that then as I have been told by
others on this list that a turbo charged car should see a 2% increase in
HP for every 10 degrees cooling of the intake air. So if that is true
then you should see from 10 to 12 HP increase with this new fan installed.
NOTE: I like to lay down towels around the work area so that I don't scratch
the finish. So get some good sized bath towels and lay them down along
the sides of the car and across the trunk lid, so also you have some
place to lay out the tools and parts you will be using.
NOTE: You can use the stock wiring to power the new SPAL fan if you wish.
I would suggest that if you do this that you cut off the stock sensor
and replace it with a 300 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. This will make the
engine fan controler circuit think that the temperature is always
over 144 degrees and thus turn on the fan just as soon as you start the
car. The main reason to do this is so that the stock intercooler does
not have a chance to heat soak. On the 1993 MR2 Turbo the stock engine
fan sensor is the one mounted to the mid front part of the engine lid.
It is fairly obvious as it is the only wired device connected to the
middle of the engine lid.
PROCEEDURES:
First we will mount and wire the fan thermostat controller. I happened to
mount mine on top of my Jacobs Ignition system OmniPak, it was convienent
and the wires were close to the side of the car where they could be easily
routed. If you don't have the Jacobs Ign. mounted as I do then just pick
an easy place to stick it on. Some place where it will stay fairly cool.
I stuck my thermostat control to the top of the Jacobs using a couple of
strips of the 3M Super Strong Automotive Attachment Tape. Make sure you
have it where you want it, because this tape is hell to pull loose.
Make sure that where ever you stick the controller, that you clean the area
well so that the tape will have maximum adhesion.
Or if you find a place, you could use the enclosed screws and drill holes
and screw it down. Myself I try to avoid drilling holes when ever possible.
Along with the thermostat controller are a set of instructions from KRS.
KRS makes the controller. I suggest reading through the instructions KRS
supplies so that you get a good idea of how you want to install the wiring.
You may or may not want to wire the controller exactly the same way I did.
Remember measure twice, cut once.
The wires that are supplied with the kit come with the spade connectors
already on them, so make sure that you measure your wire, as it will
be routed so that it will fit where you have mounted your thermostat
controller.
First we will wire the switchable source, this is the wire that KRS shows as
going to the Ign. coil. Since this is a little difficult to get at and
I already have the jacobs hooked up there, I decided to go to a different
source. If you open the No. 2 fuse box, it is the black fuse box over in
the right corner as you look into the engine compartment from the drivers
side. Click the two hold downs and pop the top cover off the fuse box and
look inside towards the upper left side. You will see a white connector
next to two large buss cables. This connector is the one that we are going
to use for a switchable 12V source. Notice the locking tab on the white
connector, and press it and pull out the connector. Now as you look at the
connector top, ie.(the side the wires are comming out of), then on the left
upper corner you will see two Black-red striped wires paired together going
into one connector terminal. This is our switchable source.
There are two steps to removing the terminal connecter from the white
plastic connector body. First look at the connector body, and running
across the middle of the white plastic connector is a locking strip.
This strip locks all of the terminals into the white plastic connector.
I used a dental pick and carefully pulled this middle strip out.
NOTE: the strip does not come all the way out, it only comes out part way,
it does not detach from the white connector body.
After you pull the middle strip out slighty it will release the first part
of the locking mechanism that holds the wire terminals in place.
The second locking mechanism is a small metal tab on the wire terminal end
itself. Look down into the connector and you will see the small metal tab
push it with the dental pick, and at the same time pull on the wire set.
This should allow the wire set and the terminal to come out.
Now to route the wire, I used a combination of wire ties and the 3M super
sticky high density double sided tape.
You will now want to route the wire over to where you have mounted the
thermostat controller. If you decide to use the 3M super sticky tape, then
here is how I did mine. I first cleaned the area good and then cut a small
strip of tape about 1/2 inch long, and stuck it down in the path of where the
wire is going to lay, then lay the wire down on it, and then cut one more
piece of sticky tape, and lay down on top of it. This combination really
sticks the wire down. Make sure that the first piece you stick down is
pressed down very hard. I also do not remove the backing piece off the
second, or top piece of tape, this will help keep it a little cleaner.
Now route your switchable DC source wire over to the thermostat controller
and it is to go where the KRS diagram shows the wire going to the ignition.
Since it is much more difficult to get at the ignition + and - wires and
since I already have my jacobs hooked up to it I opted to go with this
other switchable source. Since the wires that come with the thermostat
controller already have the spade connector on the other end of the wire,
then you will want to route your wire so that you can then connect it
to the spade connector comming out of the thermostat controller. This
will ensure that you have sufficient wire length before you cut it.
Now we are going to solder one of the wires that was supplied in the
KRS thermostat kit. I think for this one I used the red one, but don't
use the orange one, the one with the inline fuse, the inline fuse is
suppose to go to the fan connector on the thermostat controller.
So, strip about a 1/4 inch off the end of the wire you are going to use
and then with your solder and soldering iron, tin the wire end first.
Now feed the end of the wire you just tined up through the bottom of the
fuse box and to the wire terminal with the two Black-red striped wires.
The wire is going to be soldered to the end of the metal terminal in the
plane of the wide part of the terminal, not on the side of the terminal
or, it will not fit back into the white plastic connector body.
Apply a little solder to the wire terminal, and then heat both wire and
terminal, and sweat them together. I usually blow on them so that the solder
cools faster. Make sure you allow the terminal to cool before reinserting
it in the white plastic connecter body, or it could melt it.
Now you are ready to reinsert the wire terminal back into the white plastic
connector, it should press back in, remember it might be a little tight,
and then make sure that it is pressed all the way in so that the little
metal tab locks it in place. Then press the middle strip across the white
connector body, and that will lock the terminals in place.
NOTE: since I did not disconnect the NEG terminal of the battery, then I
did not plug the connector back into the fuse box yet, until I finished
connecting the other end of the wire.
The next wire is where the KRS diagram says the ground wires goes. This
one is fairly easy, I ran it over to where the screw connects the ground
wire that is connected to the engine hood side panel. On each of the
side panel trim pieces, there is a bolt that goes over to a ground wire.
This ground wire then goes to a large bolt that is screwed into the frame
of the car. One other thing that I did to make sure that the ground was
good was to clean off a little of the paint where the bolt head seats and
then added two star washers so that they would dig into the frame and make
good contact.
Measure and route this wire, I used a black wire for this from the kit, and
use one of the large round stud electrical terminals. I solder all of my
terminals to the ends of the wires, rather than crimp them only. Soldering
them will ensure that you have a good connection, and that it will not
work its way loose.
Next wire to route is the 12V battery wire. The way I routed this wire was
over to the fuse box, and if you look into the fuse box you will see where
the two large buss cables come into the left corner of the box as you look
at it leaning over the drivers side of the car. I connected the wire to
the thermostat controller first, and then routed it over to the fuse box.
Feed the wire up into the bottom of the fuse box and then measure over
to the buss connector.
Now lift up the rubber protective cover that is over the two large buss
wires in the fuse box. CAREFULLY, using a 10mm socket and extension and
drive ratchet, loosen one of the nuts (not both), now you can see just about
what size stud terminal you will need, and after you have made sure of
the measurement of the wire length, then cut the wire that you have routed
over to the fuse box, and solder a terminal on the end of it. After the
terminal has cooled then place it on the stud where the buss wire goes and
screw the nut back onto the stud, and using the 10mm socket, extension, and
drive tighten the nut back down. Don't go overboard and torque it to much.
Now we are done with wires going into the fuse box, so you can now put the
cover back on the fuse box.
Next is the wire that the KRS diagram says goes to the AC clutch, I just
ran it to ground. You can solder it together with the other ground wire,
or you can jumper it with a small loop of wire at the controller.
I have AC on my car, but I see no real need for this control wire in this
specific application, so I just ran the wire to ground.
Next is the wire that has the inline fuse in it. This is the orange wire,
or at least it was in my kit, it goes to the controller at the spade
marked for the fan. This wire will be routed from the thermostat controller
over to the fan + wire (blue).
At this point, I will defer and explain how I routed my wire, you may or
may not want to route your wire the same way. For this wire you will need
to extend it, because the wire provided in the kit is not long enough.
I also routed this wire in the trough where the engine lid hinges are.
So I had to remove the engine lid cover. This is not too much of a task
the hardest part is getting the stock sensor wire holder loose off the
engine lid. This gray wire holder that holds the stock sensor wire to the
engine lid, has two squeeze locks one on either side, but the only way to get
at it is to remove the engine lid metal inside liner. Or you can go to your
Toyota dealer and purchase a new wire holder, and cut off the old one. Or
you can just cut it off and leave it off.
Or you can choose not to remove the engine lid, and work in the limited space
that is available.
I will leave these choices up to you on routing the wire.
I will tell you what I did, since I removed the inside metal liner on my engine
lid, then my choice was to remove the engine lid, since after you install the
new fan, you will not be using the sensor anyway. I just left the sensor inplace
and used two pieces of the 3M super sticky tape to stick it to the engine lid
(now without the inside metal liner.)
Ok, I will assume that you have choosen one of the methods to route your wire.
You want to route it so that it goes over just past where the engine lid hinge
is on the passengers side (US). Since this wire had to be extended then I chose
to increase its size, I used #12 wire to run across to the other side, the KRS
kit comes with #16 wire. Make sure that you leave enough so that you can attach
the fan + wire (blue), as it comes up just at the corner where the engine lid
hinge is.
Now we are ready to mount the thermal sensor that comes off the stiff gray
wires from the thermostat. What I did was mount my sensor on the metal pipe
that extends off the end of the radiator hose. Look down into the engine
compartment, on the drivers side (US), and see the coolant fill cap.
Not the fill cap over in the right hand corner that comes up off the plastic
overfill bottle, but the pressure cap that comes up just in the middle of
the drivers side (US), just left of the cross brace bar.
Follow the large rubber hose down from this and see that it comes to a pipe
junction. The top of this pipe junction is just about the right size for the
thermal sensor. Now using your jewelers saw, or something equivalent, carefully
saw off the OUTER aluminimum casing of the end of the thermal sensor that
has the wire comming out of it. Remember you are NOT sawing it off, you are
only sawing through the aluminum outer casing. Saw around the circumference of
the outer aluminum casing, and BE CAREFULL not to cut into the wire.
You will be sawing at a point that will be about a 1/4 inch up from the end
of the aluminum casing. You can judge this distance by placing the sensor
on the top of the coolant pipe, and you will see how much needs to be trimmed
off.
Now after you have cut through the complete circumference of the outer casing of
the sensor, then turn the jewelers saw so that it cuts across the face of the
part of the aluminum outer casing. You are basically going to shave off the
aluminum such that after shaving off part of the case, you will then be able
to peal off the rest of it. Again be careful not to cut into the wire.
Once you have the aluminum outer case off then peel out the epoxy glue inside.
Now check the sensor for fit, and see if it lays down flat on top of the
coolant pipe. If so then wrap a small piece of tape around the end of the
sensor at the end where you cut, where the wire comes out, so that the wire
will not short against the coolant pipe when the sensor is put in place.
Now using a Q-tip or something, spread down just a little of the Thermal joint
compound on top of the coolant pipe. Then using a couple of tie wraps, tie
wrap the sensor to the top of the coolant pipe. The tie wraps should be made
of nylon, and will be able to stand the heat.
Now position the wire comming off the end of the sensor, and tie wrap it a
few places, routing the wire back to where you mounted the thermostat controller.
Now we are ready for some really fun stuff. We are ready to pull the stock fan
and mount the new one. If you haven't already remove the passengers side (US)
engine hood trim piece, using a #2 phillips screw driver and a 10mm socket,
extension and drive ratchet.
Now using your 10mm socket, extension and drive, remove the No.2 intake air
connector, this is the large rubber hose comming off the end of the No.4 air
pipe (large cast aluminim pipe). Set it aside for now.
Reach down now, and see the gray electrical connector at the top of the fan.
Press on the locking mechanism, and pull the connector off the fan.
There are three screws holding the fan on. These screws are part of an assembly
that consists of a large rubber grommet, a steel cylinder, and the screw.
The screw is not suppose to come all the way out, because it is tied into the
steel cylinder that runs through the center of the rubber grommet.
But such was not the case when I removed them, the screw and steel cylinder
tended to come out of the rubber grommet so be careful and don't drop it.
There are two screws towards the top of the fan that are fairly easy to get at.
It is the third one that will give you some hassle. The third one is down and
to the right as you are leaning over the car. The bracket that the third screw
is attached to comes up off the bottom right side of the intercooler as you look
at it leaning over the car looking down at the intercooler and fan.
I used my 10mm socket 6 inch extension and drive ratchet to loosen the screws.
You may as I did want to pull the screw and cylinder assembly out of the
rubber grommet so that it will not fall down in the great void of the engine
compartment.
Once you have all three of the screws out, then move the fan around so that it
clears the cross bars and pull it out. Believe it or not, it does come out
without having to remove the cross bars. Although it would be easier with the
cross bars out.
NOTE: the next part I will be asking you to do may not be reversable, but it has
to be done inorder for the new fan to fit.
Look down at the intercooler, and you will see two brackets that the stock fan
mounts on. One is close, in the upper left side of the intercooler, and the
other is further down, on the lower right side. (this is your choice),
using the large channel lock pliers, grab the bottom of the upper bracket and
pulling, bend the bracket up slightly so that it has a gap that is over 1.5 inches
wide. You do not need to bend it up 90 degrees, about 40 degrees will do.
Now reach down to the lower bracket with the channel lock pliers and bend this
bracket out a similar amount. It doesn't have to be very much, just enough to
clear the outer ends of the new fan.
Now place the new fan in position and check for fit. It will be tight, but it
does fit. If the brackets are still in the way, then bend them a little more.
Now as for position of the new fan, I will tell you what I did, you may find a
little be better position, but there isn't much room for alteration.
I positioned the fan for maximum coverage over the face of the intercooler.
On the lower left side as you look down, if you have AC on the car, then the
AC pulley will seem like it is in the way. Well, it will be just ever so
slightly. My fan is positioned such that the AC pulley did hit the edge of the
fan. But this is no problem, it will just wear a small indentation in the edge
of the frame of the fan, and it will not interfere with anything.
You need to position the fan over that far so that you have the best coverage
over the face of the intercooler.
Now I did not use the plastic mounting piece extensions that come with the fan.
These would only get in the way, and would not fit in such tight quarters.
I positioned the fan such that the wire comming off the fan, (the blue and the
black wire), come straight up. This puts one of the four holes, (we only use
three), over on the upper left side of the intercooler. This is where I started.
NOTE: the fan is going to be mounted FLAT against the intercooler, NO rubber
spacers inbetween the fan and the intercooler, it has to mount flat
against the face of the intercooler.
I positioned the fan, and then checked for maximum coverage over the face of the
intercooler, and then using one of the ties in the fan mounting kit, I put one
of the square foam rubber pieces over the end of the tie, and slid it down and
stuck it in place on the square end of the plastic tie. (note, I had this ready
ahead of time) I then started the end of the tie through the hole in the fan
and into the intercooler. You should be able to fairly easily push the tie end
through. If you have trouble pushing the tie through, what I found was I would
push the tie in just a little and then pull it back a little and then push it
back in. This seemed to help. After having done the first tie, I then preped
another tie, by placing one of the square rubber pieces that come in the kit
over the end of the tie, and slide it down and stick it to the square end of the
tie. I then checked the position of the fan and then pressed this tie into the
hole on the fan in the upper right corner. Again this one was fairly easy to
insert.
NOTE: do not yet press on the locking pieces, this is for later.
Now the third tie was a little difficult because it is down next to the
AC pulley, if you don't have AC on the car then in this respect you are lucky.
Prep the third tie from the fan mounting kit, and reach down on the right side
of the AC pulley and feel for the hole in the fan frame. Then start to feed the
tie into the hole and start to push it into the intercooler. This is the one
that gave me the most problem. On this one I had to press the tie in just a
little, and then pull it back just a little, then press it in just a little
more, and so on until it went all the way through.
Now make one final check of the position of the fan, while you can still do
something about it. The lower left side should appear that it is almost going
to touch the AC pulley. And in fact it will when the engine moves slightly in
its engine mounts. Check the fan for maximum coverage over the active area of
the intercooler. Note: the right side will appear to be out over the end of
the active area of the intercooler, this is OK, since we can't move the fan over
any more because then it really would be rubbing up against the AC pulley.
After you are satisfied with the position of the fan, then find someone with
very skinney arms that can reach up into the intake scoop and put on the
locking squares on the ends of the mounting ties. My problem is that my arms
are very large, (years of doing power lifting, and weight lifting), so I had
no chance of reaching the mounting ties and putting on the locks. So I called
my beautiful assistant, (wife), who happens to be very thin. She easily reached
up into the scoop intake, and put the locking squares on the the mounting ties.
If you don't have a beautiful assistant, who happens to be skinny, then I really
do not know for sure how you are going to get the locks on the mounting ties.
I suppose that you might do it with the right set of tools. This is one that you
will have to think over.
I will assume now that you have been able to install the locks and press them
down in place. I again used the square rubber cushions supplied in the mounting
kit on the locking squares. Make sure that you push out the center hole of the
rubber squares, or it will interfere with the locking mechanism of the tie down.
Now we are ready to hook up the fan wires. I assume that you routed your + wire
for the fan, and that it comes out somewhere close to the passengers side (US)
engine lid hinge. I cut the white plastic connector off the fan, as I solder
all of my connections. You may or may not want to do this.
Now cut your + wire comming from the position marked FAN on the thermostat
controller, to length, seeing that it easily reaches the + (blue) wire on the
fan. Using solder and your soldering iron, solder these two wires together, and
then using some black electrical tape, tape up the connection. Now using a
piece of the black wire left over from the thermostat kit, I soldered a piece
of it on to the black wire from the fan. Cover the connection with some black
electrical tape, then on the other end, route it over to the large bolt that
the stock ground wire comes off of. Using a 12mm socket and drive, loosen
the ground wire bolt and pull it out. Now measure over with the black wire and
cut the black wire to length. Strip a small 1/4 inch piece off the end and solder
a large stud terminal connector on the end of it. Then what I did was using a
small screw driver or a scraper of some kind, scrape off the paint where the
head of the ground bolt seats. This is so that the ground will make good
contact. I then put on a star washer, the two wire terminals, and then another
star washer. I then screwed the bolt back in place and tighten it down good.
Using the 3M super sticky tape, I routed my wires to the frame of the car so they
run along the little ledge on that side.
That finishes hooking up the fan. Now find the No.2 intake hose, and position it
back on the No.4 air pipe, and the inlet end of the intercooler, and being sure
to position it correctly, then use your 10mm socket and drive and tighten the two
hose clamps. NOTE: on mine the hose has a mark on the top of it that lines up
with the arrow on the No.4 air pipe.
Now you can put back the engine lid side trim piece being careful to look up
under it to make sure that the metal tabs on the side panel lock into place on
the plastic inserts. Then using the two phillips screws and a #2 phillips
screw driver, put the two screws in place on the ends of the trim piece.
Then using your 10mm socket and drive tighten down the bolt that holds the
ground wire in place.
Now assuming that you have finished routing all of your wires to the thermostat
controller, then you should be finished on the drivers side (US), also.
If so then position the side panel trim piece making sure that it locks into
the plastic inserts, and then using your 10mm socket, tighten down the two bolts
that hold it in place. Then tighten down the bolt that holds the ground wire
lug in place on the end of the trim piece.
Now follow the instructions given in the KRS instructions to set the temp that
the thermostat controller will kick on at. I set mine fairly low, almost to the
lowest seting so that the fan will be on for the maximum amount of time.
Mine usually kicks on just as the temp gauge is comming up towards the middle of
the dial. You will need to play with this a bit and see where you want to set it.
NOTE: make sure you are very careful when you turn the potentiometer on the
thermostat, if you force it you could easily damage it. You will need
a very small screw driver to tweek the potentiometer.
We are almost done, since the stock fan and its associated controller are not
being used now, to avoid getting a check engine light when the stock fan
controller tries to turn on the now removed stock fan, then you need to unplug
the stock fan controller plug. To do this open the rear trunk of the car and
using a small screw driver or your phillips screw driver, and a flashlight
or a drop light, look over in the left side of the trunk and you will see one
of the little push pop rivets that holds the carpet liner in place. To remove
these rivets simply push the center pin SLIGHTLY in and it should click, then
grab the edges of it and pull it out, proceed along the top edge of the liner
and see and remove 4 more of these rivets.
Pull back the liner and you will see the PCME and just over to the right of it
you will see the engine compartment fan controller. You will also see a plug
comming out of the bottom of the plastic module. Push on the locking mechanism
on the connector, and pull the connector out of the plastic body of the fan
controller. That's it, now press the liner back in place and line up the holes
where the rivets go, and get one of the rivets and slide the center pin out
slightly so that the end of it extends up just about an 1/8 inch or so then
carefully press the rivet back into the hole and then press the center pin in
so that it is FLUSH with the top rim of the rivet. Do this for the remaining
rivets.
Now go back and check all of your work, making sure that you did not leave a
wire hanging off into space, or possibly hook something up wrong. Check with
the KRS instructions and their diagram, and make sure that all the wires going
to the thermostat controller are correct and that they are all in the right
place.
Now enjoy the added horse power provided by the additional cooling of the
intake air.
ADDENDUM
I finally had to remove this thermostat kit due to it being
an electronic relay as the voltage varied the thermostat would
cut out, and shut the fans off, then as the voltage came back
up slightly, it would kick back on. So the fans were constantly
going off and on and off and on.
What I did was use a 30 amp relay, and tied it to a key
switchable source so that as soon as I start the car the
fans come on and stay on as long as the car is on.
On my cool down phase, I allow the car to idle to cool the
turbo, and then I shut the engine off and then cycle the fans
on for a minute or two.
I did not opt to use the stock thermostat because of its
high 144 degree F turn on.
Since the stock "engine cooling fan", was not originally
specifically designed to cool the intercooler then the stock
thermostat is not really designed to do the job properly.
In the tests I ran I found much better cooling with the SPAL
aftermarket fan than the stock fan, and better yet if the fan
is on as soon as the car is started, and stays on as long as
the car is running. Thus keeping the intercooler at an overall
lower temp. than the stock fan ever did.
You would be suprised just how much difference a 25 degree F
drop in inlet temp. makes. It should be worth about
12.5 HP on the Turbo 3SGTE engines, somewhat less on the NA's.
--
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+ +++ N E C +++ +++ A M E R I C A +++ +
+ ------------------------------------------------- +
+ Marc L. Summers System Administrator +
+ 3100 N.E. Shute Road Hillsboro Oregon 97124 +
+ PH: 1-503-681-3338 FAX: 1-503-681-3304 +
+ Email: marcs@tdd.hbo.nec.com +
+ ---------- Sic transit gloria mundi. ------------ +
+ --- "Thus passes away the glory of the world." -- +
+ ------------------------------------------------- +