Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 14:58:44 -0700 To: gseeley@island.net From: Tanabe (tanabe@powernet.net) Subject: Strut bars Whats up Geoff, I just checked out your mods on the MR2, and we've got a lot of similiar upgrades. I'm getting back to you re: my custom strut bars. I really liked the GReddy bars, but couldn't imagine paying $220something for them --each. So here's how I went about fabricating them. Basically I cut out 4 brackets- 2 for the front, 2 for the back, out of T6 6061 aluminum. I used 1"ID (about 1.3"OD) T6 pipe aluminum for the brace, which tapers at each end and are threaded internally. Hyme joints were used to connect brace to brackets (they look cool too), stainless hex head bolts for fasteners, and all of the aluminum was polished to a mirror finish. Front:I made a template for the brackets using the 2 holes on the inside top of the strut tower (one of the holes currently secures factory strut bar). The template is kinda L-shaped, contoured to the strut tower, and allows me to use factory strut bar also (bracket fits underneath fac. bar). I carefully cut out the 2 brackets, using 1/4" T6 plate aluminum, with my jigsaw. 2 holes were drilled in the brackets to match those on the strut tower, and another hole for the brace to secure onto. For the bar, I cut the T6 pipe to 31.5". Here's where knowing someone who can weld aluminum came in handy. My friend tapered the ends of the bars to meet a solid piece of 3/4" T6 aluminum pipe, which was welded in the center of the bar (solid piece of aluminum about 1.5" long). The gaps and cuts were then filled in with welds, and ground smooth. The 2 ends were tapped, 1 with a righthand thread and the other with a lefthand thread. The hyme joints just screwed into these threaded holes and then bolted on to the brackets (hyme joints support different angles so the brackets didn't have to be bent horizontal). At first I bolted the bar to the top of the bracket, but it interfered with closing the hood, so I bolted it to the bottom. I guess you could just drill a hole thru the ends of the bars and bolt them to the brackets, but I wanted a custom look to them. Rear:
The rear strut bars were done in the same manner except the brackets utilize all 3 of the strut tower bolts. The cut of T6 pipe was 29". I bent the brackets level so not to interfere with anything, also the finished bar can be mounted on the top of the brackets unlike the front. Materials: 3/16" thick T6 plate aluminum 1/4" thick T6 plate aluminum 1" ID T6 pipe aluminum 2 - RH threaded rod ends 1/2" - 20 tpi male 2 - LH threaded rod ends 1/2" - 20 tpi male 1 - metric bolt/washer for front brackets (utilized 3 factory) 4 - allen head bolts 1/2" - 13tpi x 1-1/2" 4 - 1/2" lock washers & 1/2" - 13tpi nuts 2 - 1/2" - 20tpi locknuts for strut bar 2 - 1/2" - 20tpi LH locknuts for strut bar Labor: taper/weld/thread ends file ends sand down to a 400 grit polish Materials cost me about $60, and the labor was free. If you don't know a welder it could cost a lot more I guess - shop rates were about $50/hr over here. Filing, sanding, and polishing can be done by yourself if you have the time. If I knew how to send pics I would, I'll have to read up and send if you like. Its not that hard to make some cool strut bars- it was well worth it! I might have missed some steps or info so e-mail back if there are any questions. Dave