Detailed Instructions On How To
Make Ignition Wire Adapters For
The 1993 MR2 Turbo
Explaination:
One of the issues that I have seen over some time now is the fact that
when a new type of ignition wire comes out, the only way I can get
it for my car is if the manufacturer just happens to make it, which
most of you and myself have found that they don't.
Prime example, the new MSD super wire.
So I set about to develop a way to allow the average "do it yourselfer"
to be able to get a quanity of the bulk wire, and make your own
ignition wire set, without having to worry about the odd ball type
of terminals that come stock on the MR2 MKII's.
I also checked and found that those older models 1991 1992 year MR2's
"Turbos" that is, can use the 1993 distributor cap which makes this
even better.
The main idea here is to develop a set of adapters such that they allow
the use of "standard" ignition terminal hardware.
This then allows the do it yourselfer to go to their local auto parts
store, buy some nice Accel, or MSD ignition terminal hardware parts
and then buy the new MSD Super wire that is now on the market and
make up a new set of ignition wires for there MR2 using standard
ignition terminals, and ignition wire crimpers.
This allows the do it yourselfer to then obtain the latest
innovation in ignition wire, and in less than an hour, have a
complete set of new ignition wires for their MR2 with out having to
bother with wheither or not the company makes them and in
the process save a bundle over what the manufacturer would charge
if they did make such a wire set for the MR2.
Example, 25 feet bulk of the new MSD super wire costs about $43
that's enough to make 3 full sets of wires for the MR2 Turbo.
With some boot ends from Accel costing $32, and the top hat boot
ends from Jacobs that fit "air tight" then you can make up a really
nice set of ignition wires.
This set of instructions is just for the adapters, I will explain
the making of the wires in a later document.
TOOLS USED:
Jewelers saw
small bench vise
Xacto knife (sharp blade)
dial calipers, or small metal ruler
small pair of needle nose pliers
light weight household oil or WD40
PARTS PURCHASED:
New set of 1993 OEM ignition wires
Autolite 4252 motorcycle spark plugs (5)
NOTE: these are the type that have a screw on
tip end. There are many different types
of spark plugs that have screw on tip ends
but I chose the motorcycle type because many
of them are required to have the screw on tip ends.
I just got these because they were the cheapest type.
Locktite RED
4mm screws at least 1.1 to 1.2 inches long
Lubricone from Kano Labs
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/kano
PROCEEDURES:
The way I start this is, using a dial caliper I set it at
1.035 inch, and then while holding the 4mm screw use the jewelers
saw and mark a place on the 4mm screw where I am going to cut it.
I then wrap the threaded area of the 4mm screw with a small piece
of cardboard, and set it in the bench vise and tighten down.
I then use a light oil on the jewelers saw blade and start to cut
the 4mm screw head off so that when finished I now have a screw stud
that is 1.035 inches long.
What is nice about a jewelers saw is that it leaves a very nice smooth
finished cut which is needed for the end of the stud because this
cut end will be the one that we screw the spark plug tip end on to.
If you don't have a jewelers saw you could use a hack saw or even
clip the end with a pair of cutters, and then grind the end smooth
but you would have to compensate for the length to finish the end
smooth. It is important for proper fit that the end of the 4mm stud
be smooth and flat.
After all 5 4mm screw studs have been cut to size, and the ends cleaned
you are ready to remove the terminal hardware ends from the set of
Stock 1993 ignition wires.
Observe the end of the OEM ignition wire that plugs into the
distributor cap. This end has a black boot and a red wire comming
out of one end of it.
As you look at the boot end you will see two distinct small rib areas
that divide the end and taper it down to the smaller wire size.
It is the larger area just before it tapers down that we are concerned
with.
The line that the taper forms is the edge that you will cut around.
Using the Xacto knife, carefully cut around this edge and down into
the black boot, making your cut around the circumference of the boot
right on the line that divides the taper part from the main larger
body of the boot.
Once you have cut around the circumference of the boot at this
specific point, the wire and terminal will easily pull out of the
remainder of the boot, leaving this main body of the black boot
intact.
Of course this remaining main body of the black boot will form the
outer boot covering of the adapter.
Do this same circumference cut and extraction of the remainder of the
terminals, excepting for the right angled one on the coil -> distributor
wire. We will only be using the one end of this wire.
That should now give you the 4 main wires, and one end of the
coil->distributor wire for a total of 5.
The next step is to carefully remove the wire from the crimped on
terminal. I do this by jaming an end of a set of needle nose pliers
between the terminal and the wire, and pull on the wire and the
pliers to cause the crimped end to spread apart.
You won't have to spread the crimped end much and the wire will
fairly easily pull out, leaving you will the metal terminal end.
You can throw the wire away.
Now using the small needle nose pliers crimp the terminal end
back together. The crimped end needs to come back together such
that it forms a small tight circle so that the 4mm stud can be
pressed into it where the wire was.
NOTE: the stud has to be pressed into place it can not be
inserted and then crimped back into place, it just won't
work, I tried it.
The crimp area of the terminal where the seam is should be touching
together, but not having one end below the other or above the other.
But as symmetrical as possible. This will allow all of the little
teeth in the crimp area to bite into the 4mm stud and hold on better.
Once all of the terminal end is pressed back together then you are
ready to press the 4mm stud into place.
Position the stud in the crimp end of the terminal, and spread the
jaws of the vise wide enough so that the end of the stud and the
end of the terminal are touching the jaws of the vise.
Now holding the terminal and the stud as straight as possible start
to screw the jaws of the vise closed, and press the stud into the
terminal end.
Press it only until the other end of the stud touches the little
"stop" piece on the terminal. Do not go any further, or the finished
length of the terminal will be too short.
The finished length is critical to the proper fit of the adapter.
Now you are ready to put on the spark plug tip.
Put a small amount of the RED locktite on the end of the 4mm stud
and then screw on the spark plug tip so that it is flush with the
top of the tip. Do not go further, the stud does not want to stick
out of the top of the spark plug tip.
After you have finished all 5 this way, then set them aside and let
the Loctite set up.
After the Loctite has set up then you are ready to slide the terminals
into the black boot pieces.
The terminal should fit such that the spark plug tip end will be right at
the end of the black boot on one end, and the long skinny terminal
will be protruding out the other end.
This then finishes the adapters.
One of the keys to using these adapters with out having to have the
plastic locking outer sleaves is using Lubricone from Kano Labs.
When Lubricone is wiped onto these black silicone adapter boots
and the carrier dries, it causes the boot to "stick" in the
distributor cap. Now Lubricone is not a glue, it is a silicone
lubricant, but it works on these silicone boots in such a way
as when the carrier dries the surface of the boot has
"increased" friction and will stay put when plugged into the
distributor cap.
Using Lubricone to keep the plugs in place is critical to their
proper use. Use of a silicone grease will not work, and in fact
will cause the boots to lose their friction and come out.
DO NOT USE A HEAVY SILICONE GREASE ON THESE BOOTS, IT WILL NOT WORK.
As always if you have any questions please ask.
--
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