Article: 38662 of rec.autos.misc From: mutrh@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Todd R. Haverstock) Newsgroups: misc.consumers,rec.autos.misc Subject: TOYOTA-L FAQ [part 1/3] Date: 21 May 1995 17:49:27 -0500 Organization: Educational Computing Network, Illinois USA Lines: 1000 Archive-name: mutrh/toyfaq.txt Version: 2.00 Last-modified: 2 Dec 94 Maintained by: Todd R. Haverstock (TR-Haverstock@bgu.edu) Administered by: The Toyota Mailing List (toyota-l@bgu.edu) *+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+ + Frequently Asked Questions for TOYOTA motor vehicles * *+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+ [Major sections are in all-caps, sub-sections in lower case. A "+" indicates a section that has been revised or added since the last version.] INDEX: +0.1: INTRODUCTION, DISCLAIMER, AND COPYRIGHT +0.2: HOW TO SUBSCRIBE TO THE TOYOTA MAILING LIST PART ONE 1.0: BODY 1.1: Restoring faded paint on windshield wiper arms 1.2: Celica doors not closing properly 1.3: 1978-81 Celica door alignment (from sag) 1.4: What is the CELICA emblem? 1.5: LandCruiser body styles +1.6: 90-91 Camry rust problems 2.0: BRAKES +2.1: Brake pad squeal +2.2: 1993 Camry brakes, vibration 3.0: ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS +3.1: Alternator repairs 3.2: 1980 Pickup horn inoperative 3.3: 1986 Celica relay "chatter" 3.4: Tercel Cruise control 3.5: 2SE Engine intermittent warm failure 3.6: 1986 Celica brake light ground corrosion +3.7: Celica blower motor removal and fan speed selector repairs 4.0: ENGINE AND RELATED SYSTEMS 4.1: Timing belt/chain maintenance 4.11: What if my belt or chain breaks? 4.12: Timing belt tensioning 4.13: Checking slack on timing chains +4.14: R engine chain and chain guide replacement 4.2: Lubrication 4.21: Should I use the Toyota oil filters my dealer is pushing? 4.22: Should I switch to synthetic oil? 4.23: Slick 50 and other snake oils: Don't use them! 4.24: Corolla GTS oil cooler hoses 4.25: 5M-GE engine cam failure 4.3: Fuel System 4.31: Problems with pinging 4.32: 22RE cold start injector problems 4.33: Cleaning the Camry throttle body 4.34: 1987-90 Tercel Variable venturi carburetors 4.35: Hesitation on the 84-87 Corolla and 85-88 Nova (4AC and 4ALC engines) 4.4: Emission control 4.41: 22R/E O2 sensor replacement +4.5: Engine miscellaneous +4.51: Engine number designations 5.0: EXHAUST 5.1: Tercel exhaust 5.2: 2SE Engine exhaust leak 6.0: SUSPENSION 6.1: Bushing replacement 6.2: Camry bushing replacement 7.0: TRANSMISSION, TRANSAXLE, AND DIFFERENTIAL 7.1 Clutch linkage: fluid flushing 7.2 Synthetic lubricants for the manual transmission PART TWO +8.0: THE TOYOTA PAGES 9.0: HOW TO GET IN TOUCH WITH TOYOTA +10.0: OTHER TOYOTA-RELATED MAILING LISTS AND INTERESTS 11.0: TOYOTA BOOKS AND REPAIR MANUALS 12.0: RECALLS, SSC'S, AND TSB'S 12.1: RECALLS 12.2: SPECIAL SERVICE CAMPAIGNS 12.3: TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS +13.0: TOYOTA MAILING LIST ARCHIVES 14.0: OWNER'S COMMENTS ON TOYOTA 0.1: INTRODUCTION, DISCLAIMER, AND COPYRIGHT: This FAQ was created as a learning experience for myself, as well as to provide a compilation of topics previously discussed on the mailing list and the rec.autos.* hierarchy. This is not a substitute for the Toyota Repair Manuals nor the expertise of your mechanic. I hope to include useful information in this FAQ that is not in any book. If you'd like to correct, add, or comment on something in the FAQ, send email to me at TR-Haverstock@bgu.edu. You MUST put "TOYOTA FAQ: " followed by the subject of your inquiry or your mail may not be formally recognized. This work is copyrighted (c) 1994 Todd R. Haverstock. You are hereby granted the non-exclusive right to freely copy and distribute any information found in the FAQ, in part or in whole, and in any media format so long as: a) The information is copied verbatim. b) No fee is charged for providing this information. c) Any work that you distribute or publish, that in whole or in part contains or is derived from this FAQ, or any part thereof, must be licensed as a whole at no charge to all third parties under the terms of this license. Every attempt to provide correct and useful information has been made, but myself, contributors to the information provided herein, and The Toyota Mailing List are not liable for any damages resulting from the use or misuse information in the following text. There are no paid endorsements for products or services and any claims or testimonials for certain products are those of list members or the author of the FAQ. The Toyota Mailing List is not affiliated with Toyota Motor Company or Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Very special thanks go to Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com), Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com), Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com), Nate Vander Schaff (our resident Toyota insider), Clark Wallace (save@cpva.saic.com), and everyone else who was instrumental in the initial creation of the FAQ that I didn't mention here. -Todd mutrh@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu or TR-Haverstock@bgu.edu +0.2: HOW TO SUBSCRIBE TO THE TOYOTA MAILING LIST To subscribe, send a message with a blank subject line to listproc2@bgu.edu with the following line in the body of the letter: subscribe toyota-l FirstName MiddleInitial LastName An actual subscrition request might look like: subscribe toyota-l Todd R. Haverstock The middle initial is optional. Do NOT put your email address in this request. This is automatically determined by LISTPROC. A digest option is also available for those who would prefer one concentrated hit of Toyota per day or cannot handle the large volume of messages the list sometimes generates. Once you have subscribed to the list, you can send the following command to listproc2@bgu.edu: set toyota-l mail digest To unsubscribe from the list, send a message to listproc2@bgu.edu with the following line in the body: unsubscribe toyota-l See Section 10.0 for additional Toyota-related mailing lists. ===================================================================== PART ONE SECTION 1.0: BODY 1.1: Restoring faded paint on windshield wiper arms Clark Wallace (save@cpva.saic.com) writes: On my 78' Celica, arms became badly faded with some spots showing base metal. Here's what I did: Removed and completely disassembled the arms and blade frames. Since '78s have the washer jets integral with the arms, there's several parts making up the assembly. Wet sanded all painted surfaces, using about a 300 grit, then cleaned everything with mineral spirits. Parts were then wiped down with a tack rag and then hung everything up in a makeshift spray booth so I could paint it all in one step. Painted with a semi-gloss black enamel. I used Rust-o-leum. Two coats. After about a half hour I took everything and hung it in my oven and set the temperature at its lowest, around 150 Fahrenheit. Once the oven got to temp I shut it off and let the stuff "bake" for about an hour. It's important to hang the stuff in the oven since the paint will remain tacky at temperature. After the parts cooled I reassembled. It's been two years and the arms still look *really* good. 1.2: Celica doors not closing properly If your doors won't close completely and it *seems* as if they need to be aligned, there may be a simple fix. You may be missing or have a broken "silencer." These are black (78-81) plastic pieces, shaped something like the letter "C" fitted to the latch on the door. Note that this is part of the latch, NOT part of the striker (which is located on door jamb). If you don't see a black plastic piece on your door latch (as viewed from the front) you are missing yours. These can be bought from Toyota for about $2. Dealers that have their parts diagrams on microfiche will not show this part as being sold separate and will try to sell you the assembly for $150. The part numbers for the 78-81 Celica doors are: passenger side: 69319 14010 driver side: 69329 14010 Part numbers courtesy of Clark Wallace. Most Toyotas are fitted with these silencers, not just the Celicas. They ARE a little tricky to snap into place, but it can be done without removing the door latch assembly. contributing: Clark Wallace (save@cpva.saic.com) 1.3: 1978-81 Celica door alignment (from sag) Clark Wallace (save@cpva.saic.com) writes: Door sagging is inevitable on the 78-81 Celicas. You will need a SST to access the adjustment bolts though. You can use a standard offset box wrench to mimic what this door hinge SST does (Craftsman makes one). However, it's curvature may not be sufficient to access all of the bolts. [note: SST stands for special service tool. Toyota is the only place to get an SST from. SSTs can sometimes be mimicked by modifying other tools or finding similar tools from your auto parts store.] However, the sag can get to the point where realignment with the flanges is not possible. If this is the case, you have two choices. Take a 4x4 and wedge it between the rocker panel and the door underside and pull up (obviously the door must be ajar enough to allow the 4x4 to slip into the gap). If you choose the 4x4 approach, slip a short scrap of a 2x4 between the lower portion of the door (not the lip) and the 4x4. Second option is shims and the best approach for installing shims is to first remove the front fenders. Its easier than you think and will save you hours of frustration and grief. Once off, all eight hinge bolts are easy to access with no special tools. Once the fenders have been removed, just crack the doors open, support the lower lip with a jack, loosen the appropriate bolts, and drop in the shims. Nice and clean. 1.4: What is the CELICA emblem? > Does anyone know what that bird-looking emblem thing > is on the Celicas (at least up through 1985)? It's not a swan, dammit! -Todd I always thought it was a Viking ship. I think Celica is a Nordic word. -Aaron? According to Toyota, Celica is a Spanish word meaning celestial. -Yoshi A friend of mine recently told me that Celica means a small warship in Spanish. -Asher I think the character is a dragon. -Todd 1.5: LandCruiser body styles FJ40 - "Jeep" style LandCruiser (although it eats Jeeps for breakfast) Softop/Hardtop/no top 6-Cyl F & 2F inline engine. Made up until the early '80s FJ45 - Looks like a Jeep with a pickup bed. Also available in "wagon" (enclosed) style. Otherwise same as FJ40. FJ55 - "Wagon" style LandCruiser. 5 doors. Same engine as FJ40, same years. FJ60 - "Improved" "wagon" style LandCruiser. Much interior and exterior refinements. Made from 1980 (?) to 1987. 4.0L 3F inline-six engine. FJ62 - Same as FJ60 except square headlights, only available in\ automatic, 4.0L 6-Cyl inline EFI engine. 1988-1990 FJ80/82 - "New" style LandCruiser - rounded body panels, larger than the FJ62. contributing: Greg +1.6: 90-91 Camry rust problems Rakesh Srivastava (smsriv@melkor.lerc.nasa.gov) writes: Here is some important info for 90-91 Camry owners. I own a 91 Camry and a few days ago I noticed rust around the rear wheel well, just behind the passenger doors. I took it in to the dealer, they looked at it and said they are aware of this problem and will fix it under warranty. Apparently due to some manufacturing error (as put by the service agent), that section of the car was not properly treated, so it is prone to rusting. He said there is no recall issued for this but if anyone brings the car in they are fixing it under the warranty. By the way, I own a DX, so I am not sure if the problem is with this model only or with other models also. It may not be a critical problem for people living in South, but here in rust country, it is important to be taken care of right away. So, if you own a Camry check around the rear wheel well before the rust warranty runs out. ===================================================================== SECTION 2.0: BRAKES +2.1: Brake pad squeal If you didn't replace your disc brake pads with OEM Toyota pads, this may be why they are squealing. Toyota includes special anti-squeal shims with their pads to prevent this squealing. Applications of anti-squeak or anti-squeal compounds may temporarily mask the problem but will not last for more than a few weeks. If you have had your pads replaced with non-Toyota pads and the anti-squeal shims were discarded, they can be ordered seperately for roughly $7.00 from Toyota, although most dealers will try to sell you a new set of pads and insist the shims aren't sold seperately. If they don't want to do business fairly, do your business elsewhere. +2.2: 1993 Camry brakes, vibration Scott Wallace (scottw@duke.quotron.com) writes: Does anybody have a problem with brakes "squealing?" My car (1993 Camry LE/4) had a problem with the front pads making a "grinding" noise under light or moderate braking. Two trips to the dealer (Marina Del Rey Toyota) resulted in having the service techs use fine sand-paper on the rotors and front pads to remove the glaze. While this covered-up the "problem" for a while, it would return after a few hundred miles. After having a spirited conversation with the service manager he said approved having the pads replaced. I've since found out that the "new" pads are actually a re-formulated revision to the older, factory OEM brand. These new pads have not demonstrated the noise problem but did for a short time make the brake pads seem a little low. This was recently corrected by having all the brakes cleaned & adjusted. [note: The "low" pedal may have been due to misadjusted rear brake self-adjusters. The self-adjusters on most Toyotas are activated by use of the parking brake. It is a good habit to ALWAYS use the parking brake (even if the car has an automatic transmission) in order to keep the rear brakes adjusted properly, and thus, have even brake pad and shoe wear.] Recently I've also just noticed a slight "vibration" with my car, only when at a full stop and in gear. This vibration seems to be translated thru the steering wheel into my hands. While not of GREAT magnitude, this has started to become a little annoying. The dealer has taken great pains to explain this as (get ready for this one) "normal and to be expected." There is an "anti-vibe" TSB that has been released and the kit consists of a new engine mount (P/N 12361-74252), new engine mount insulator (P/N 12363-74120), a new lower radiator support (aka mount) (P/N 16535-74121), two new radiator hoses (P/N's 16571-74191 & 16572-74181, four new hose clamps (P/N CLAMP) and new coolant to top off that which was drained when the heater hoses were replaced. This TSB covers 92-93 Camrys experiencing this vibration problem and whose VIN#'s match those outlined in the TSB. ===================================================================== SECTION 3.0: ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS +3.1: Alternator repairs If the charge light AND brake light on your dash come on and stay on, the culprit is a problem in your charging system. When these lights come on, it means your battery is not charging. These lights will rarely signify a battery being at fault though. Most often, the alternator belt is slipping or the alternator brushes are worn and the alternator is not putting out enough voltage. When the output of the alternator drops below 12 volts, a relay kicks in and your dash lights come on. List members have noted brush failure from between 60000 miles and 120000 miles with an average life of about 100000 miles. Your choices: 1.) Go to a shop and get hammered for about $200 for a rebuilt alternator. 2.) Go to a discount parts house and get a rebuilt alternator with a lifetime (HAHA!) warranty for about $75. 3.) Go to a discount parts house and get a new set of brushes for about $4.50. Install and drive another 100000 miles. The brushes available from Toyota run about $12 for a pair, but generic ones are just as good. There are now brush "assemblies" available as well for some Toyota alternators. These are for those who are not handy with a soldering iron or are lazy. Check with your Toyota dealer (or one of the dealers on the Toyota Pages) for availability. Instead of soldering the new brushes in place, you simply snap in a new brush assembly. If you can operate a soldering iron, or are willing to try, do number 3. The only other things that go wrong are the coil fusing, bearing failure, and the little resistor pack burning out. However, these rarely fail. The brushes just simply wear down to nothing. Disassembly of the alternator: Remove the alternator from the car and remove back cover (the side opposite the one with the pulley). This is often easier said than done as nuts and bolts have a way of not loosening when you want them to. You may wish to soak the pivot and tightening nuts with penetrating oil if you are having difficulty removing them. When removing the cover, if your model has phillips head screws, be warned that the screw heads strip very easily. I STRONGLY advise you use an impact screwdriver to remove the screws before even trying to with a regular screwdriver. Impact screwdrivers are available at Sears for a little under $20 and can be had elsewhere for slightly less. Desolder the old brushes being careful not to let the springs get away from you as the solder lets go. Note that Toyota uses a high-temperature solder in most alternators, so you will have to allow the old solder to heat up well. Solder in the new brushes with the springs in place (which takes a little manual dexterity). Using a toothpick or straightened paperclip, push the brushes down and slide the pick/clip through the holes provided to hold the brushes down (starting from outside of the casing). Put the alternator back together. Remove the pick/clip. You should hear two distinct "clicks" as the brushes drop into place. If you need to use additional solder, make sure you use a high-temp type and not the 60/40 solder found at Radio Shack. Install the alternator back into the car. Make sure you tension the belt as directed in your owners manual. Tension and tension adjustment methods vary from car to car, but a loose belt can cause your warning lights to come back on and a tight belt can harm the alternator, possibly causing bearing failure. Save the impact screwdriver for your next job. These come in very handy. If you already had one, you're ahead of the game. contributing: Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com) Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com) 3.2: 1980 Pickup horn inoperative (other year pickups also) An inoperative horn on the 1980 Pickup may be due to a worn steering wheel horn brush. Remove the steering wheel and replace the brush. Chris adds that instead, simply remove the brush retaining clip and replace the steering wheel. This fix will last from 50000 to 100000 miles. When it fails, your horn will sound continuously. And the next time you remove the steering wheel, the brush will fly out at you. contributing: Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com) Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com) 3.3: 1986 Celica relay "chatter" If there is a "chatter" from the relay when turn signal is switch on it could be the turn signal switch contacts. Repair by adding more solder to the contacts or replace the turn signal switch. contributing: Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com) 3.4: Tercel Cruise control Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com) writes: I put a Dana "Deluxe" Cruise Control into my '86 Tercel. It went smoothly and has worked fine for 8 years. If you are buying an after-market cruise control, check out the Dana brand. A friend (who researched the subject as part of his job) bought one of each, disassembled and studied them, and concluded that the Dana was the best made/best designed (at the time) after-market unit. At the time I bought mine, Dana was sold by Montgomery Wards (among other dealers) and went on sale frequently. On my previous car, I installed a different brand after-market cruise control. I forget the company name, but it was something like "Mark IV Industries". It failed on me many times. Once, it was replaced under warranty. It was intermittent, very slow to activate (6 seconds to pull in), and finally died big time. It would sometimes activate without any request from the driver. Other times, it would completely ignore the user inputs. That's another reason why I recommend Dana. :-) A junk-yard factory cruise may be just as good if not better, but it doesn't come with the "hooks and handles" to get it into any car. It might also be defective. Junk-yard warranties are notoriously weak. My friend jury-rigged a GM cruise control to his vehicle. It worked out fine for him, and performed well. I personally hate all after-market cruise control button boxes. They all seem too ugly, too cheap, or to messy. For mine, I got tiny industrial switches and mounted them behind the little dash-board panel under the main panel. It is very subtle, and required virtually no cutting or cosmetic changes, and it is very easy for me to activate. I tried to buy the control box from a factory cruise control, but the junk yards didn't want to split up them from the steering column. If you are less fussy, you may be happy with the controls that come with the unit. I'm a bit of a stickler for silly details. 3.5: 2SE Engine intermittent warm failure If you're experiencing intermittent warm engine failure or car will not start, the cause could be a defective signal generator and pickup in the distributor assembly. Replace the signal generator and pickup. contributing: Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com) 3.6: 1986 Celica brake light ground corrosion This vintage Celica (86) had problems with the ground in the rear light housing assembly. The screw that mounts the ground from the socket to the housing builds corrosion underneath-its usually invisible. This is easily fixed by running a redundant ground or cleaning the terminal and replacing the screw. It is most evident for brake lights. Have someone identify which housing by looking for a dim bulb when the brakes are applied. contributing: Nate Vander Schaaf +3.7: Celica blower motor removal and fan speed selector repairs The blower motor on the 78-85 Celicas can be removed in the following way (other models similar)- Robert F. O' Shaughnessy (roshaugh@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu) writes: My sister's '81 had blower motor problems, and, no you don't have to remove the whole assembly, you only have to loosen it. There are three bolts (screws) behind the carpet holding the housing to the firewall with braces (so they are below the housing). Remove these bolts, remove the three bolts holding in the fan, then turn the plate holding the fan to the housing (it rotates clockwise). The fan should fall right out. Installation is the reverse of removal. -- If your blower is not operating on one of the three or four speeds available on the selector, your resistor pack may be broken. Toyota uses a resistor pack on most models to drop the voltage to control the speed of the motor. It's located in the air duct on the 82-85 Celicas (accessed by removing the glovebox) and is buried behind the instrument cluster on 78-81 Celicas. It will be easy to see if the resistor pack is burned out because the resistors are just coils of resistance wire, and a broken one will be very easy to spot. To replace the resistor pack, remove the two mounting screws, unplug it, and replace with a new one. Aftermarket replacements average around $30. If you need to do any soldering for the resistor pack or blower motor, make sure you use a high temperature rosin core solder for repairs. Standard 60/40 electronics solder will melt under use! contributing: Paul G. Hicks (phicks@mn.ecn.purdue.edu) Chris Davis (chris@locus.com) ===================================================================== SECTION 4.0: ENGINE AND RELATED SYSTEMS 4.1: Timing belt / chain maintenance 4.11: What if your belt or chain breaks? At the time of this writing, all timing BELT driven gasoline Toyota engines are freewheeling or non-interference. This means that if your timing belt were to break, your engine would not suffer damage. When it breaks, you WILL be stranded and have to have the car towed to a repair shop. Most Toyota diesel engines and chain-driven engines are "interference". When your chain breaks, the valves will bend and you will be looking at a huge repair bill. The best thing to do is to replace timing belts at 60000 mile intervals or the interval recommended by your owner's manual. Timing chains and chain guides should be checked periodically. There isn't a general agreement as to when timing chains should be replaced, but they do last much longer than belts. As far as the R series engines are concerned (20R, 22R, 22RE) it isn't as necessary to check the slack as it is to check the condition of chain guides. The 20R engine (1975-80) and 22R (1981-82) use a double timing chain whereas the 22RE series (1983-present) uses a single chain. The single chain design is much more prone to problems though. The guides have been known to break (but not without some notice) and allow the chain to come off, thus damaging the engine. Circumstantial evidence (and NOT scientific data) has shown that the use of oil filters with anti-drainback valves has extended the lives of the chain guides, providing additional lubrication at startup. Your best bet is to just inspect the guides per the Toyota Service Manual instructions. contributing: Nate Vander Schaaf 4.12: Timing belt tensioning As a form of preventative maintenance, it has been recommended by some mechanics to re-tension the timing belt at 30000 mile intervals. Every 30000 miles, adjust the tension by loosing the tensioner, turn the main crank about 5 degrees, and retighten the tensioner. Every 60,000 miles change the timing belt. Make sure you use a genuine Toyota timing belt. The aftermarket ones in the USA are not made to as tight of tolerance as the original belt, and may cause the aftermarket brand belts to jump a tooth or two without warning. Adjusting the Timing belt is not part of Toyota's official service. I personally recommend it; especially for SOHC motors. If you do or don't adjust the T-belt, you will by no means affect the warranty or serviceability of the car. Past experience has shown that T-belt adjustment can extend the life of a T-belt. The procedure is outlined in such magazines as "Import Service." Be wary, a mechanic may give you a strange look if you request timing belt adjustment. Don't let him talk you down; ask him to check with some other mechanics and you can check other shops. If you can't find someone to adjust the belt, don't worry. Just BE SURE to change it at 60,000 miles. And when you do change your belt, you *may* not have to follow all the steps outlined in the service manual. Some cars (86 Tercel) do not require the removal of the valve cover or radiator as outlined in the manual. contributing: Nate Vander Schaaf Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com) 4.13: Checking slack on timing chains Several methods for checking slack have appeared on the list. One of the easiest ways to check is as follows: Remove distributor cap and spark plugs (removing the spark plugs allows you to turn the engine over much easier). Locate the crankshaft pulley and timing marks. On many engines, the crankshaft bolt is 19mm. Turn the engine over with your socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt until you reach TDC or "0" on the timing marks. Turn slowly (in the opposite direction) past TDC while watching the movement of the rotor (inside the distributor). A movement of 10-12 timing degrees before the rotor starts moving indicates excessive slack in the chain and necessitates replacement. New chains generally have less than 5 degrees of slack. contributing: Allen T "Koji" Kam (tkoseki@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu) Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com) +4.14: R engine chain and chain guide replacement Daryl Mathews (daryl.mathews@psl-online.com) writes: > Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the plastic timing chain > guides on a 22R without pulling the head? Both my Bentley and Chilton > manuals show that you have to pull the head to remove the timing chain > cover, and it looks like you have to pull this cover to get at the chain > guides. I'd rather avoid this if I could. I have replaced many 22R timing chains without removing the cylinder head, But you have to be very careful. Remove about 4 pan bolts from each side and pry oil pan down a little. If you are careful you will not damage the head gasket. On the '83 Celica there is a single roller chain and plastic chain guides. The 81-82 22R and all 20R engines came with a double roller chain and metal chain guides. You can use this chain if you replace both gears (which you should replace anyway) and also replace the oil pump drive gear with 82 or older gear. This will NOT work on 85 and newer 22R engines as they have one less link in the chain. 4.2: Lubrication 4.21: Toyota oil filters This topic has seen hot debate on the list and in rec.autos. Toyota filters use an anti-drainback valve which holds oil in the filter when the engine is shut of, being sucked back into the engine upon re-starting. This allegedly reduces startup wear. Most aftermarket filters (such as Fram) do not employ an anti-drainback valve. Bosch is one manufacturer of oil filters that does use these valves. These are more expensive than bargain filters and run about $3.50 to $4.00 retail. The usefulness of the anti-drainback valve is still in dispute although Toyota dealers claim increased wear on your engine if you use non-Toyota filters. It is important to note that not using Toyota oil filters will NOT void your warranty even though this is often *implied* by dealers. Toyota filters can be purchased from the vendors at this document for $3.50 to $5.00 each depending on model and quantity ordered. The choice is up to you if the slightly higher cost is worth the possibly reduced engine wear. 4.22: Switching to synthetic oil Some members comment on the use of synthetic oil: Kevin W. Smith (76334.3232@compuserve.com) writes: Will you feel a difference by using synthoil? No, but on a technical level, it really is better stuff. One thing though, is that its higher solvency will dissolve some accumulated sludge that dino oils left behind, so the Mobil 1 will appear to get dirty rather quick. Some people recommend that before you switch to synthoil, install a new filter with your old oil, and run some flush through it. Then drain and fill with the synthetic and a new, top-quality (Toyota) filter. -- Scott Wallace (scottw@duke.quotron.com) and Kevin W. Smith (76334.3232@compuserve.com) write: (condensed) I have been using synth oils for only a relatively short time (about 1 yr) and have documented proof that they are "better" than natural oils. Now, what do I mean by "better"...? By that I mean to say that you will have less wear than if you were using a natural based oil. I have been having my oil tested for the last several years (5-6) and I have been using this as an indicator of up & coming problems. With my use of synth oil (Mobil 1 10w30) I have found that ALL (yes, I said all) wear metals have been reduced to single digit numbers of ppm wear. Some metals have also dropped to zero ppm. Now, these numbers are with a new engine... I can not say with any certainty that if "you" were to use a synth motor oil that your wear metals would drop to some low level. Without attempting to sound like some know-it-all, the use of synth oils will help to extend the life of the engine. So long as the oil you choose meets API standards you can mix your synth & natural oils without concern. (I don't mean to say here that you can concoct your own "devil's brew" of natural & synth oils...) There is no need to flush your oil with anything...the synth oil will do this for you. Just use the same change interval for the next 2 changes after you switch... As for the use of synth oil in "older" or "high mileage" cars, all synth oil manufacturers recommend that you monitor your oil consumption (or lack thereof) after you switch. In some limited cases your oil usage will increase. Why? I don't know. But I have read that from multiple manufacturers. As for AMSOIL by-pass filter...this actually consists of one filter fitted into another filter. When using this configuration, your oil will be filtered down to the 1-3 micron level. I don't think that this is required unless you PLAN to have an extended interval (aka anything over 5K miles...up to 25K). Now, you can safely go that long so long as you do change the filter every so often AND you replace the missing oil AND you have the oil tested every so often to see what's REALLY going on in there. If you don't do these things then you're only guessing that the "superior" oil properties are keeping your engine running smoothly... (you will pay for a new engine sooner than you think) An AMSOIL rep told me that the dissolved varnish brought on by the synthetic can interfere with ring sealing (stop laughing, Clark). I started using it at 90K with my Corolla GTS. Oil consumption went up (I did drop the viscosity a notch, though). Next change (to the original viscosity), consumption was still up, though not as much. Then after the third one, consumption stabilized and all is well. One thing I really like about Mobil 1 is that the valves no longer rattle after the car's started after a few day's rest. I just switched from 10W30 to 15W50. Hot idle oil pressure had been down from when the car was new, but the 15W50 brought it back up. But even with the thick oil, the valvetrain still doesn't make a sound. When I used 20W50 dino oil, it certainly would, and hot idle oil pressure wasn't as good as it is now. Anecdotal evidence, but enough to convince me that synthetic is definitely helping my particular, high-mileage engine. 4.23: Slick 50 and other snake oils: Don't use them! Independent laboratories as well as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless. The PTFE particles in Slick 50 have been said to clog the tiny oil galleries in your engine. Products from other companies marketing similar treatments can possibly damage your engine. Your best bet is to stay away from any oil additives. A good quality synthetic or conventional oil, quality oil filter, and regular change intervals will do much more to protect your engine than these "snake oil" products can ever do. 4.24: Corolla GTS oil cooler hoses Two oil related things to watch for. On the US-spec GTS, the oil cooler hoses are draped across a sharp edge on the front bumper mount, which will eventually wear a leak into the line. If it's rubbing but not leaking, a drain pipe coupler from a hardware store can be used to protect them. If it is leaking, the hose is about $75. The other oil thing that applies to all twin cam 1600's is that the oil filter is mounted high on the engine, and is slightly upright. This means that when the oil is changed, several ounces of dirty oil will find its way all over the place. After several years of this, everything from the filter down will be covered with goo, if you don't take care to clean it after each filter change. contributor: Kevin W. Smith (76334.3232@compuserve.com) 4.25: 5M-GE engine cam failure Cam failure on early 5M-GE engines is legendary. The root cause of the failure is sludge blocking the oil metering holes on the base circle of the lobes. These cams are hollow and oil is pumped down the center and flows out metering holes at each lobe. The result of a plugged hole is a scored lobe. I have several examples myself. Frequent oil changes and a good synthetic oil would have help prevent cam failure. contributing: Jon Hacker 4.3: Fuel System 4.31: Problems with pinging Before you get too concerned about what might appear as pinging, thoroughly inspect the car for loose exhaust components, heat shields, clamps, etc. When your Toyota is pinging, you will hear a noise from the engine that sounds as if someone is tapping on it with a hammer. The "ping" is actually a predetonation due to the combination of temperature and pressure in the cylinder and "glowing" carbon for ignition. With emissions laws getting tougher, manufacturers are leaning out engines and advancing timing in order to reduce emissions. When you get a small amount of carbon buildup, dirty fuel injectors, etc., you are more likely to experience pinging. If your owner's manual recommends using regular 87 octane gas and your engine pings on this, going to a higher octane will only mask the problem. Some owner's manuals will recommend using premium gas and these engines are ones that have been leaned out to the max. There are several solutions to curing pinging most of which address removing carbon buildup. These include RedLine SI-1 cleaner, Techron, and pouring water into the carburetor/throttle body. Members comment: from: rdante@icogsci1.ucsd.edu (Rick Dante) OK, all this talk of 3S-FE pinging is driving me nuts. So I'll make my commercial plug (no affiliation, just a *VERY* satisfied customer). In my 90 Camry owners manual it says that slight pinging during acceleration or driving uphill is normal (heavy or steady pinging is not). Of course this is crap, we don't want pinging, but Toyota designed the car to run fairly lean and use a very high compression ratio for a car that takes 87 octane gas (9.3:1 compression ratio). Now if you assume that this slight pinging was normal *by design* for a new car then it's no wonder that you get pinging with even slightly dirty injectors. Maybe carbon buildup plays a role, but I bought my car from my sister at 22,000 miles and it would ping on anything but premium. That's not enough time to get nasty carbon but plenty of time to get dirty injectors and valves. Here is my fix: RedLine SI-1 injector cleaner. All the time. At first you can use a full bottle (maybe another one for the next tank of gas) and then I dilute mine a fifth a bottle in every tank. The bottle says it treats 15-100 gallons and a fifth a bottle is 1 bottle to every 60 gallons for me since I usually fill up with about 12 gallons of fuel. This stuff is by far the best injector cleaner I've ever used! It puts Techron to shame. Techron is absolute crap in comparison. It's not too expensive either. I used to pay $5.95 a bottle but the store just lowered it to $4.49 a bottle. From RedLine directly it's $3.95 a bottle for a case of 12. The problem is it's hard to find. The guy at Kragens used to race cars and had experience with SI-1. He agreed it was by far the best. The secret's in the synthetic high temperature detergents that survive combustion, but the point is that using 1/5 bottle in every tank I have *NO* pinging with 87 octane gas. 3 oz of SI-1 and 12 gallons of 87 octane is cheaper than 12 gallons of 92 octane to boot. Car runs a lot smoother too (nice synthetic upper cylinder lubricants in the SI-1 too). Makes a nice clean engine purr. By the way, I fill my tank half way, add my SI-1, and fill it up to mix the stuff well. Use whatever superstitious technique you want, but that's what I do if you're curious) Here's Red Line's phone number if you can't find the stuff: 1-800-624-7958 Whenever an oil company wants to test the detergent properties or whathaveyou out on their gasoline, they have to take a little trip to Germany. BMW has the only program to test gas properly. I think a company pays something like $75,000 which includes a brand new 325i or something similar. They use their gas, have a BMW driver drive it around the track all day long for a couple of days or weeks or whatever (I read this in a Car and Driver or R&T or MT article on which gas was the best. Actually it could have been Consumer reports. It was a while ago). They do this to rack up high mileage and then they tear the engine apart and note its cleanliness. BMW is big into engine cleanliness for their customer's cars. I have seen many BMW owners with a case or two of BMW cleaner in the garage when I was a youth. Anyway, here's some fact (and some speculation follows). BMW has a part number for RedLine SI-2 injector cleaner. This comes in a 6 oz bottle meant to be used with every tank of gas. It's the same stuff as SI-1, just a less concentrated version. Anyway, they repackaged it for BMW and BMW has a part number for it. Funny thing is some BMW dealers have been cheapskates and have substituted Chevron Techron for the RedLine. Anyway, BMW is fully equipped to test out any cleaning product they want (they're the only ones who test gas by sacrificing a 325i) and it seems they chose RedLine and had it packaged up in the convenient SI-2 package. Another little theory: You know how BMW straight sixes are fabled to be smooth? It's they're trademark. Have you ever noticed an engine with dirty injectors to be buttery smooth? No, you have to maintain clean injectors to keep that smoothness and that's probably why BMW tries to get all its customers to use injector cleaner every fillup. So every BMW owner can have a smooth BMW for the life of the car. Well, since using the SI-1 I think I can safely say, I'll have a smooth running Toyota for life! OK, there's the rest of my plug for SI-1. No affiliation with RedLine, just a satisfied customer blah blah blah. Sorry this was so long, all I needed to say was use SI-1 to make your pinging go away. from: Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com) If the manual says to use regular [unleaded], stick with it. Using a higher octane only masks the problem that's causing the pinging/ knocking, and you'll end up wasting money for premium gas that your car will never take advantage of. First thing to check: Your timing. make sure it's within spec. If that's OK, try a bottle of ProGard CleanUp (marketed by Chevron under various names such as Techron, Techroline, ProGard--the same stuff they put in their own gasoline, but in far less dosages). One $4-5 bottle of CleanUp did wonders for me, and I swear by it. It basically dissolves carbon buildup and whatever else that grows inside your engine. BMW, Lexus, Mercedes, and a bunch of others supposedly approve of its use. Go for it. This one works....Not all gas treatments work, so beware, or avoid the others. You didn't mention how many miles you have on your car. If it's got some decent mileage, most likely it's got carbon buildup. from: Phil Fischer (philf@physics.at..com) > Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm not sure I follow why/how carbon > deposits would create the pinging problem. Pinging is basically a 4 > stroke in diesel mode so my first inclination would be to suspect the > timing or the mixture. I'd also inspect the plugs. Where do "carbon > deposits" come into the picture?? Carbon deposits cause the compression ratio to be increased which can Article: 38663 of rec.autos.misc From: mutrh@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Todd R. Haverstock) Newsgroups: misc.consumers,rec.autos.misc Subject: TOYOTA-L FAQ [part 2/3] Date: 21 May 1995 17:50:10 -0500 Organization: Educational Computing Network, Illinois USA Lines: 1001 cause preignition of fuel. Another problem is that the carbon deposits can get very hot and cause the fuel to preignite. I think this latter is true, someone correct me if I'm wrong. from: Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com) Carbon buildup increases the compression ratio; hence, the need for higher octane gas or retarding the timing. Retarding the timing cause a loss of performance, so the trade off is the higher cost of gas vs. fewer miles per gallon. The "ping" is actually a predetonation due to the combination of temperature and pressure in the cylinder and "glowing" carbon for ignition. As a sidebar, some folks use water injection and swear by it to enable the use of lower octane gas at the optimum timing for maximum performance or lower emissions. I have used "Clean Up" a couple of times with success to eliminate pinging with the 87 octane gas I use. 4.32: 22RE cold start injector problems When the engine is cold (65-70F), I'd have to let the engine chug-chug for about 8 times before it will kick over. When it's hot, it'll turn over as usual. I have new plugs, fairly new cap/rotor, wires, and the battery is very strong. There's a TSB on this. I think it came out in 87 or 88. (It's in the books). There's a new CSI thermo timed switch and a special EVSV that will boost the fuel pressure by bleeding the pressure regulator vacuum line. Both parts will fit Celica or Truck. See your friendly neighborhood Toyota Dealer for the TSB. contributing: Nate Vander Schaaf Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.atc.slb.com) 4.33: Cleaning the Camry throttle body If your late 80's Camry is suffering from a sticking gas pedal, it could benefit from cleaning the throttle body. Here is how it looks in the '89 4 cyl auto Camry. Throttle Position Sensor _____ | | # Clamp |-------|============ --------------| : |---| = | : < | | = E F I | : < | | = | : < | | = --------------| : |---| = |-------|=========== = | | = Air Cleaner = ----- = Hose = Throttle Linkage = = = = = = : +++++++++++++++++++ : + + : Throttle Plate + + : + Air Flow + + Meter + + + + + +++++++++++++++++++ ! ! ! To Air Filter ! ! ! ! ! Here is what I did to clean throttle plate... o loosen the CLAMP (#) using 10mm socket. o remove the AIR CLEANER HOSE from the throttle body. o spray Gumout on the throttle plate (:). To clean the other side of the throttle plate, rotate the plate by moving the throttle linkage. Do not bend or damage the throttle plate. o connect the AIR CLEANER HOSE to the throttle body and tighten the clamp. contributing: Jack Patel (jackp@cc.bellcore.com) 4.34: 1987-90 Tercel Variable venturi carburetors Nate Vander Schaaf writes: > skinner@aurxc7.aur.alcatel.com writes: > The following question specifically applies to a 1988 Tercel, but may be > equally applicable to any car with variable venturi carburetion. > > Are variable venturi carburetors adjustable (to improve performance or > mileage) by tweaking the main air/fuel bleed (there is a screw > accessible) into which the metering rod slides? OR, will the carb always > self-adjust to the optimum air/fuel mixture by virtue of the vacuum > controlled metering rod positioning feedback loop, thereby counteracting > any adjustment? I following question specifically applies to a 1988 DON'T TOUCH THAT CARBURETOR! DON'T SPRAY CARB CLEANER IN IT! DON'T ADJUST ANYTHING! DON'T PUT ANYTHING IN THE GAS! DON'T MESS WITH IT! Listen carefully: This carburetor cannot be adjusted. It cannot be rebuilt. It cannot be cleaned. (Maybe some purified water can be poured into it when the car is running--but that's all.) It cannot be otherwise looked at funny or cursed under your breath (OK, just kidding on the last two). The sliding piston is coated with Teflon. If anything dissolves this seal, the piston will no longer be held in its proper position to deliver the proper fuel. Also, the Teflon coating acts as a dry lubricant--it assists in free sliding of the piston. When it becomes dissolved, the piston is more likely to stick in a certain position and cause further problems. Every circuit on this carburetor is default to rich; as opposed to the previous generation Tercel ('86 and back) which was default to lean. This was supposed to eliminate the problems with lean hesitation. This plan worked very well. There were no longer problems with lean hesitation - they have all been replaced with RICH hesitation! So, now, anytime anything goes wrong, (and something always does) there's extra Hydrocarbons being dumped on the 8 intake valves. This quickly becomes carbon buildup on the valve stems and seats. This situation is aggravated be chronic leaky valve seals--oil leaks down onto the valves and forms carbon buildup. All of these factors=trouble and $$$. Here's what can be done for a Tercel circa 87-90: If it runs good, run in hard. Rev it high (when its warm, T-belt is in good shape, etc.) to blow some of the carbon off of the intake valves. In other words, make sure the mechanicals are OK, then lend it to your 16 year old kid on weekends. If it runs bad, find out if the Toyota field fix kit has been installed. This may help part of the problem. The dealer knows all about it. Check your valves for carbon buildup. Check the EBC valve for a cracked diaphragm. Get the Service manual for details. Replace the carburetor. They're only about $1000 or so and they can't be rebuilt, repaired, cleaned. Change air, fuel, PCV filters every 10-15,000 miles. This helps keep the carburetor happy. Change oil and filter every 3000 miles. This helps keep the valve seals happy. 4.35: Hesitation on the 84-87 Corolla and 85-88 Nova (4AC and 4ALC engines) Hesitation on the above vehicles with the 4AC and 4ALC engines has been a common occurrence when the engine has racked up a considerable amount of miles. When -all- other factors that could cause this problem have been checked (vacuum leaks, dirty carburetor, distributor cap and rotor, ignition wiring, fuel filter, PCV valve, etc.) the cause may be the auxillary acceleration pump (or AAP) on the carburetor. This circuit supplies additional gas to the carb under load. Quite often, the interior rubber diaphragm will deteriorate and/or crack. This part can be ordered a-la-carte from your Toyota dealer (instead of buying a complete carburetor rebuild kit). I do NOT recommend aftermarket parts in this case as they often do not match the original equipment close enough. I DO recommend you consult the carburetor section of the Toyota repair manual applicable to your Corolla and follow the instructions for locating and replacing the diaphragm and gasket. This repair can be done without removing the carburetor from the intake manifold. Any gas detected in the vacuum line going into the AAP is a sure sign of AAP failure. 4.4: Emission Control 4.41: 22R/E O2 sensor replacement If you've found that your O2 sensor requires replacement (you've tested it with a multimeter per the service manual procedure) you may have found the price for the Genuine Toyota replacement to be genuinely high. Bosch makes a generic replacement. The one for a 22RE goes for about $40 but it doesn't have a Toyota connector. There's another company that makes one with a Toyota compatible connector for about $50. With the Bosch, you'll need to cut the wire from the old sensor and splice it into the new one and then heatshrink a sleeve that comes with it...5 minutes or less. The 22RE is nice in that you don't need a special tool to take out the O2 sensor. Just unscrew 2 bolts, and out it comes. contributing: Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com) +4.5: Engine miscellaneous +4.51: Engine number designations Toyota's engine numbering system breaks down something like the following- The first number is the revision number of the block, and the following letter is the name of the block. For example, the 4A is the fourth revision of the A block. Not all revisions make it to market of course. The letters after the block designation translate into the following- G twin cam F economical twin cam (cams closer to each other) T turbocharged Z supercharged E electronic fuel injection L lean combustion C emissions package or carburated (depending on year/model) U passes the Japanese emission regulations B twin carbs If you have a 4A-LC engine you have the 4th revision of the "A" engine block, lean combustion, carburetted. If you have a 22R-E, you have the 22nd revision of the "R" block with EFI. contributing: Matti Kalalahti (k124476@ee.tut.fi) ===================================================================== SECTION 5.0: EXHAUST 5.1: Tercel exhaust Bob Neidorff (neidorff@uicc.com) writes: I replace the muffler on my '86 Tercel every two years, and the large center pipe every four years. Factory equipment isn't better than aftermarket stuff, from my LIMITED experience. Here's one place where the Maremont lifetime warranty is valuable! Perhaps my Tercel is worse than other Toyotas because of the tiny engine and commensurately low exhaust heat output. Alternately, perhaps New Hampshire roads have a bit more salt than elsewhere. Anyway, it has always been EASY to replace myself. When I put it on, I use STAINLESS STEEL NUTS, BOLTS, and WASHERS. This makes the job trivial the next time. I strongly recommend that you spend the extra $5 now. You'll appreciate it later! 5.2: 2SE Engine exhaust leak If you're experiencing an exhaust leak, the cause could be loose exhaust header nuts. Add lock washers and replace or tighten nuts. contributing: Bill Darden (0005222166@mcimail.com) ===================================================================== SECTION 6.0: SUSPENSION 6.1: Bushing replacement Member comments on polyurethane bushings: Louis Do (do@etdesg.trw.com) writes: > Anybody out there have any tales to tell about experiences in upgrading > early Celica (78-81) suspension components from rubber to polyurethane. > Yeah, I know, who cares about a 78 Celica, but I'm the original owner, > it's still going strong (165K miles) and it's sure is cheaper to > maintain than my 89 944s2. Anyway, the rubber's fried and if I'm going > to go to the trouble of replacing it I thought I might as well upgrade > it. Any thoughts would be appreciated, horror stories, suggestions, > comments, etc. > Thanks > Clark Wallace (SAVE@cpva.saic.com) Polyurethane bushings last longer than rubber bushings. They don't give as much therefore you get a slightly stiffer ride but with much better handling. Make sure to grease the bushing well with white grease before installing. If you don't grease them, they will squeak and drive you nuts. I found out the hard way. Rubber bushings should NOT be greased! 6.2: Camry bushing replacement If you have not received a notice from your delear concerning sway bar bushings on your 1991-1994 Camry, call them. The original bushings will dry out and cause strange "crunching" noises from the rear end of the car. The replacement bushings are impregnated with silicone to prevent the drying. ===================================================================== SECTION 7.0: TRANSMISSION, TRANSAXLE, AND DIFFERENTIAL 7.1 Clutch linkage: fluid flushing All Toyotas with manual transmissions use hydraulically clutch linkages (with the exception of a handful of older low-end base models). A common reason for failure of clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders are improper maintenance or total lack there-of. There usually isn't an interval specified for flushing and bleeding the clutch line, but this is something that should be done at least every 12-24 months. The clutch fluid is nothing but DOT3 brake fluid and the same trouble that can appear in brake lines, can appear in the clutch lines. Since brake fluid is hydroscopic, it attracts water and this will contribute to corrosion in the master and slave cylinders. It isn't a difficult task to flush the lines; it takes about 45 minutes. Flushing your fluid regularly (and bleeding the line afterward) will keep your hydraulics in good shape and your clutch pedal at the correct height. This in turn, will keep the shifter easy to shift and put less stress on transmission and internal clutch components. 7.2 Synthetic lubricants for the manual transmission Changing the transmission lubricant or gear oil isn't a regular maintenance item in many owner's manuals. This is not to say that it shouldn't ever be changed. Several people have seen improved shiftability by changing to synthetic gear oils such as RedLine's MTL (or manual transmission lube). Others have seen no change in shiftability. Replacing the gear oil in older, higher mileage cars can also help -mask- transmission problems (but not necessarily fix problems). Changing to a synthetic early on in a car's life may help extend its life. The synthetic gear oil of choice is RedLine MTL. RedLine can be reached at 1-800-624-7958. MTL is about $7.25 a quart, with the average transmission requiring a little less than three quarts. The initial high cost can be swallowed easier with the reminder that it is not something changed every 3000 miles! RedLine will be glad to send you information on MTL and their other products. ===================================================================== PART TWO SECTION 8.0: THE TOYOTA PAGES The following is a directory or "yellow pages" listing of firms carrying or specializing in Toyota parts. The author of the FAQ does not specifically endorse any of the companies listed. Specific experiences with companies are open for discussion on the mailing list. If you do business with anyone below, please let them know where you got their number from though! TOYOTA DEALERS WITH DISCOUNT MAIL-ORDER PARTS DIVISIONS: Brown's Toyota City 7167 Ritchie Highway Glen Burnie, MD 21061 (800) 848-4451 comment: catalogue - $3.00 Kline Tysons Toyota 8602 Leesburg Pike Vienna, VA 22182 (800) 299-8310 (703) 356-9081 (fax) Lou Fusz Toyota Parts (Lou Fusz Autogroup) 10725 Manchester Road St. Louis, MO 63122 (800) 325-9581 (national) (800) 392-9147 (MO only) (314) 966-5404 (overseas) (314) 966-2353 (fax) comment: free catalogue promo, usually costs $5.00 Newark Toyota (Price Autogroup) 1344 Marrows Road Newark, DE 19711 (800) 537-4510 comment: catalogue - $4.00 Toyota oil filters - $4.35 ea (qty 5+) Russell Toyota 6700 Baltimore National Pike Baltimore, MD 21228 (800) 638-8401 comment: Russell will send you a copy of their monthly specials flyer upon request. Toyota oil filters - $3.99 ea TOYOTA USED PARTS AND SALVAGE: BPI Used Japanese Engines 416 East Baseline Road Mesa, AZ 85204 (800) 798-0302 (AC?) 497-8031 (local) comment: used and rebuilt Toyota engines range $300-$2500 1 year guarantee ground shipping ~$35 out of town contact: BRIAN, reference Todd from the Internet D & T Used Parts 8970 Bradley Avenue Sun Valley, CA (818) 768-4666 comment: Datsuns and Toyotas good prices, helpful 79-80 Supra rear-ends, $150 Lovis Automotive Lexington, KY (606) 233-1173 comment: used Toyota parts Rancho Cordova Recyclers / Toyota Division 3636 Omac Circle Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 (800) 765-7100 comment: Late models - 79 and up ship nationwide, big and small parts contact: Big Al Tallant Brothers Toyota / Honda Salvage 4695 Oak Grove Circle Cumming, GA 30130 (800) 635-0351 (404) 588-9234 (Atlanta area only) (404) 887-5214 (local) comment: specializes in 1990+ Toyota used parts very limited in 1980's parts VISA/MC, ships anywhere very helpful folks contact: GREG, reference Todd from the Internet The Toyota Connection 2620 West Capital Avenue West Sacramento, CA (800) 221-8696 (916) 371-7764 (local) comment: some parts require exchange or core charge contact: Ryan Toyotas Only 11540 Hart St North Hollywood, CA 91605 (818) 765-0322/3 comment: seemed high priced, and not very helpful PERFORMANCE PARTS: Performance Products 7658 Haskell Ave Van Nuys, CA 91406 (800) 553-2840 comment: truck, 4Runner, LandCruiser performance parts catalogue - $5.00 Toyota Racing Development 18240 South Western Avenue Gardena, CA 90248 (310) 532-1232 (310) 532-3973 (fax) comment: catalogue free, must provide engine model number located on vehicle ID plate on firewall ===================================================================== SECTION 9.0: HOW TO GET IN TOUCH WITH TOYOTA If you need to obtain Toyota Service Manuals, contact the Materials Distribution Center at: (800) 622-2033 (Nationwide, except CA) (800) 443-7656 (CA only) Mail inquiries can be addressed to: Toyota Service Publications 750 West Victoria Street Compton, CA 90220-5538 Questions concerning ANYTHING can be addressed to: Toyota Motor Sales, Inc., U.S.A. 19001 South Western Avenue P.O. Box 2991 Torrance, CA 90509-2991 (800) 331-4331 And if they can't take care of you, maybe world HQ can: Toyota Motor Company 1 Toyota-cho Toyota City Aichi Prefecture, 471, Japan ===================================================================== +SECTION 10.0: OTHER TOYOTA-RELATED MAILING LISTS AND INTERESTS Toyota MR2 Club Share experiences with other MR2 enthusiasts and enjoy all national Club benefits including Newsletters, Regional events, MR2 print materials, and more. Annual fee is $32. Write or call for more information. MR2 Club P.O. Box 1610 Minneapolis, MN 55440 phone (612) 835-9071 source: Car and Driver magazine The MR2 mailing list There is also a mailing list dedicated to the MR2. To join, mr2-interest-request@validgh.com The Corolla Mailing List For subscription to the Corolla mailing list, send email to corolla-request@mcs.net The Supra mailing list Supra owners may also wish to participate in the Supra mailing list. Subscription information can be obtained at Supras-request@vicor.com. The Offroad mailing list Get on the offroad list if you're looking for LandCruiser/4Runner part sources, ideas, or mods. There are a few LandCruiser buffs on the list that are very knowledgeable. For subscription information, send mail to offroad-request@ai.gtri.gatech.edu. The Toyota LandCruiser Association TLCAEditor@aol.com writes: I am actually representing the Toyota Land Cruiser Association therefore the mailing information is for the Association. You will still be able to mail information to me at that address but more importantly you will not bug my wife with mounds of mail to my home. Believe me this has been a problem in the past. My name is Gary Bjork. Many know me by my handle, Night Light. I am the editor of Toyota Trails, the official publication of the Toyota Land Cruiser Association. Our address is: TLCA P.O. Box 607 Placerville, CA 95667-0607 Our INTERNET address is tlcaeditor@aol.com The TLCA office phone number is 916-626-9020. This is a shared phone / FAX line on an automatic switch. I welcome your input concerning Toyota 4X4's of any kind and if you're a LandCruiser, 4Runner or Mini owner I hope that you will eventually become a member. You may post request for an information packet and sample newsletter at the internet address above, by leaving your name and postal mailing address and giving a few facts about your vehicle. The New Car Showroom WWW : http://www.dealernet.com Alldata (TSB notices) WWW : http://www.link.alldata.com GOPHER: gopher.link.alldata.com Edmund's New Car Prices GOPHER: gopher.enews.com '95 Toyota prices will be online at Edmund's 1/95 ===================================================================== SECTION 11.0: TOYOTA BOOKS AND REPAIR MANUALS The question of what book to refer to when working on your Toyota comes up quite often on the list and in rec.autos. The general consensus is that the Toyota Service Manual is THE book to get. These are investment of anywhere from $35 to $175 depending on the year and model. Even if you don't do the repairs yourself, the manuals have been proven as a useful tool to settle disputes with Toyota mechanics and also provide an insight into the labor involved in a particular job. If you do most of your own work, you'll find that while the Toyota Service Manuals are indispensable, the Haynes and Bently manuals provide a very useful supplement, while the famous Chilton manuals were almost useless. Technical Service Bulletins are also added to updated versions of Toyota Service manuals. Anup Mullick (pyanup%ezmail@pyibm.1.cc.bellcore.com) writes: Last year I had a lot of trouble with my 87 Camry. I ended up buying Chilton's and Haynes and eventually the real McCoy - the manuals published by Toyota. I found that Chilton's was the worst. It had more detail than Haynes but hard to work with. Haynes is excellent when it comes to locating parts. It not only provides a picture of the part but also its relation to other neighboring parts. Both the manuals had inaccuracies and it appeared that a number of diagrams were lifted from the shop manual. Each vendor manual covered many different model years. The Toyota manual was very detailed and covered only one model year. Mine cost (basic plus electrical) around 60 bucks. I must mention that all the manuals are diagnostic intensive. This means that if you suspect a specific part, they tell you how to determine if it is operating within specs. They are very skimpy on starting with specific symptoms and then determining which part is defective. The manuals are good on procedures. For example, they tell you the procedure for adjusting valves, the procedure for replacing brake pads etc. Other books that have won the approval of the list include: How To Keep Your Toyota Truck Alive: Step-By-Step Procedures For The Compleat Idiot: for 1975-1987/2 & 4WD by Larry Owens ; illustrated by Joe Leahy. Santa Fe, N.M. : J. Muir Publications, 389 p., 1988 ISBN: 0912528893 (pbk.) ===================================================================== SECTION 12.0: RECALLS, SSC'S, AND TSB'S The following is a list of important recalls, technical service bulletins (TSB's), and special service campaigns (SSC's). This is an attempt to highlight the more important ones as a complete listing is way beyond the scope of the FAQ. There is also the Automotive Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393 to find out recall information about your car or truck. Requests usually take a few weeks to process. 12.1: RECALLS Source listed as "CR" denotes the information was derived from Consumer Reports magazine. 90 Celica. Air bag could fail to deploy in crash. Models: 2543 cars made from 11/89 to 12/89 What to do: Have dealer replace air bag inflator. Source: CR 9/90 -- 1987-1989 Camry. Retractor for front lap safety belt could lock in retracted position, making belt unusable. Models: 408,225 cars made 8/86 to 8/88. What to do: Have dealer install redesigned belt guide. Source: CR 2/90 -- 1986-1988 Vans and Cargo Vans. Steering-gear assembly could be corroded and could cause erratic steering. Models: 110,217 vans made 8/85 to 7/88 What to do: Have dealer replace bevel-gear assembly and reinforce gasket material. Source: CR 9/89 -- 1983-1984 Camry and 1984 Corolla. Continuous use of cruise control followed by engine restart in cold weather could make engine race and cause accident. Models: 121,389 Camrys made 9/82 to 8/84 and Corollas made 3/83 to 8/84. What to do: Have dealer replace cruise control computer. Source: CR 6/90 -- 1983-1984 Toyota models (see below). Malfunction of voltage regulator, alternator, and alternator warning light may lead to overcharging of battery. Continued use of car with overcharged battery could result in misfiring or stalling and eventual breakage of battery case. Models: 48,737 1984 Celica, Corolla, Cressida, Supra, and Van models and 1983 and 1984 Camry models made from 7/83 to 11/83. What to do: Have dealer inspect/replace voltage regulator. Source: CR 4/84 -- 1983-1984 Supra and Cressida cars. In some cars, faulty oil-pressure sending unit could leak oil, possibly causing serious engine damage. Models: 74,275 cars made from June 1983 to 8/84. What to do: Have dealer replace sending unit. Source: CR 1/85 -- 1982-1988 LandCruisers. If rear lap safety belt fails to retract fully when unbuckled, it may not release next time it is used. Models: 30,256 vehicles made 10/81 to 8/88 What to do: Have dealer install belt guide or sheath to allow free movement of belt. Source: CR 1/90 -- 1981 LandCruiser. In some vehicles, continuous driving at over 50 mph could cause bending of steering tie rod and cracking of threaded section. Failure could cause loss of steering control and a crash. Models: 855 1981 LandCruiser models made from August 1980 through June 1981. What to do: Return to dealer for installation of modified tie-rod assembly. Source CR 1/82 -- 1980-1990 LandCruiser. Fuel Tank could crack and leak, causing a fire hazard. Models: 38,500 vehicles made from 9/80 to 12/89. What to do: Have dealer replace fuel tank. Source: CR 10/91 -- 1980-1982 Tercel cars. Control arms supporting rear wheels may corrode in areas where large amounts of road salt are used. Failure of control arms could cause loss of control. Models: 359,000 cars made from 8/79 through 7/82. What to do: Have dealer rustproof or replace control arms. Source: CR 6/86 -- 1979 Toyota pickup truck. Some vehicles may vibrate or shimmy at about 40 to 50 mph on certain types of roads. Loss of control and a crash could result. Models: 44,000 1979 Toyota pickup trucks made from August 1978 through August 1979. What to do: Return to dealer for installation of steering damper. Source: CR 1/82 12.2: SPECIAL SERVICE CAMPAIGNS If you would like to know if there have been SSC's issued for your Toyota, you can call your dealer and he will be glad to check to see if there were any. You will need to give the dealer your VIN number. -- First generation Camry (83-some 87). Front brake rotors succeptable to warping which could cause a moderate to severe "pulsation" felt from the brake pedal when braking. What to do: Call the Toyota Customer Assistance number and explain your problem and the knowledge of the SSC (have your VIN# and date of manufacture ready before you call). This SSC expired in late 1989, but Toyota may pay for the parts for your car if you claim extenuating circumstances or can plead your case somehow. The service required includes the replacement of the rotors with a slightly modified design and replacement brake pads, also slightly modified. Parts are roughly $200 and labour roughly $75 (from your Toyota dealer). Source: private mailing ---- 1983-1984 Toyota Camry cars and 1984 Toyota vans. Igniter unit may fail to start engine. What to do: Have dealer inspect vehicle and replace igniter if necessary. Expiration date: unknown Source: CR 11/86 ---- 1990 4Runner. Under certain high temperature and high humidity conditions, the air conditioning expansion valve may malfunction. This malfunction will be evidenced by a gradual reduction of air conditioning efficiency and eventually a loss of cooling capability. What to do: If your vehicle is equipped with Toyota air conditioning, Toyota will inspect and, if necessary, repair your vehicle's air conditioning system as follows: - If the system is functioning correctly, a special anti-corrosion lubricant will be injected into the system to protect the components at no cost to you. - If the expansion valve is not performing correctly, it will be replaced and the system recharged at no cost to you. - If your vehicle's air conditioning system warranty is still in effect, any necessary recharging or other A/C system repairs will be performed at no cost to you within the guidelines of Toyota's vehicle warranty policy. - If recharging or other repairs are necessary, and your vehicle's air conditioning system warranty has expired, there may be some items for which you will be charged. Your Toyota dealer will provide you with an estimate before repairs are performed. If you have previously paid for the replacement of your expansion valve, please present the invoice to your dealer for reimbursement. Expiration date: unknown Source: ref. no. SSC P01, David Snyder (dsnyder@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil) 12.3: TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS The Technical Reference Division (TRD) of the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration (NHTSA) can help you obtain copies of TSBs for your auto. There are two ways to make a request: - You can ask if there is a TSB for a specific problem. If anything turns up, a copy of the TSB will be mailed to you. - If you want all the TSBs issued to date for your car, they can be obtained on microfiche. To find out more about this service (including any applicable fees) write: Technical Reference Division National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration Room 5110 400 Seventh Street S.W. Washington, D.C. 20590 or by calling at (202) 366-2768. source: Family Handyman, March 1994 TSB-EG93-001 1992-93 Camry, 1990-93 Celica, and 1991-93 MR2. A new EGR vacuum modulator (p/n 25870-74090) is available for cars that exhibit hesitation when accelerated between approximate speeds of 45 and 60mph. ===================================================================== +SECTION 13.0: TOYOTA MAILING LIST ARCHIVES BGU.EDU is gracious enough to provide us with a home for the Toyota mailing list, but is not providing anonymous FTP access at this time. Archives (except for archived toyota-l digests) are being stored by David W. Tamkin, administrator for the Corolla mailing list. The following files are available: ftp://ftp.wwa.com/pub/corollalist/newcarfaq.gz ftp://ftp.wwa.com/pub/corollalist/toyotafaq.gz ftp://ftp.wwa.com/pub/corollalist/usedcarfaq.gz ftp://ftp.wwa.com/pub/corollalist/binaries/car131.zip ftp://ftp.wwa.com/pub/corollalist/binaries/vehdmo.zip ftp://ftp.mcs.com/pub/corollalist/newcarfaq.gz ftp://ftp.mcs.com/pub/corollalist/toyotafaq.gz ftp://ftp.mcs.com/pub/corollalist/usedcarfaq.gz ftp://ftp.mcs.com/pub/corollalist/binaries/car131.zip ftp://ftp.mcs.com/pub/corollalist/binaries/vehdmo.zip The files located at MCS.COM are a mirror of those at WWA.COM, but WWA.COM is the preferred address for FTP. -- There are lots of popular software packages for tracking maintenance on your car. It's important to track your maintenance in order to keep track of gas mileage, repair costs, general operating costs, and the intervals at which these services are performed. Two shareware programs, both for the IBM and compatibles platform, C.A.R (Chris' Automobile Recorder) and Vehicle Pro (for Windows) are available in the above listed archives as "car131.zip" and "vehdmo.zip" respectively. ===================================================================== SECTION 14.0: OWNER'S COMMENTS ON TOYOTA >From time to time we've had discussions analyzing where Toyota stands with its customers. Some of the more "dramatic" posts have been included below. Jim Chott (rzaa80@email.mot.com) writes: > The author stated that Toyota's problem is quite different. A > comparison was made between Toyota of the 90's, and GM of the 70's. > Toyota is BIG now, and has high global sales. They have also proved > themselves in quality and customer satisfaction. Unfortunately, this > has lead to a sense of arrogance that pervades the company. The author > noted Toyota's pricing of new models, and their responses to customer > complaints as evidence of this arrogance. It's almost as if they're all saying, "Hey, if you don't like it buy something else, but you won't get the quality of a Toyota!" This attitude seems to be showing up in Consumer Reports [magazine]. They had a section in last April's auto issue about customer satisfaction with the dealer; mainly the sale itself. Toyota was at or near the bottom of the list, with many other foreign makes. Saturn topped the list. I bought mine used and only deal with the parts dept. which has been okay so far, so I'm not in a position to tell. Many Toyotas still top Consumer reports lists for quality, though. Kevin W. Smith (76334.3232@compuserve.com) writes: I think you're exactly right about the Celica. In fact, I think Toyota is blowing it big, big time with their entire product line and dealer Article: 38664 of rec.autos.misc From: mutrh@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Todd R. Haverstock) Newsgroups: misc.consumers,rec.autos.misc Subject: TOYOTA-L FAQ [part 3/3] Date: 21 May 1995 17:50:53 -0500 Organization: Educational Computing Network, Illinois USA Lines: 156 network. A slow, steady decline has crossed paths with rapidly improving situations at competing companies. They need to react, and react fast before they become another bloated, out of touch company like GM. Their first dud ever, the T100, is about to be joined by the Avalon. The Celica is the laughing stock of the automotive press, and the Camry coupe is an over-priced pretender. Where Toyota once had a substantial lead in quality and reliability, they're little better than average today. Everyone else got better, while they seem to be slipping from their high water mark of the late 80's. Their product line is stodgy and boring, for the most part. The only competitive enthusiast car is the Supra. While worth every penny, it's an awfully expensive car. They completely abandoned the low-end enthusiast market when the last 1987 Corolla GTS rolled off the line. Their trucks are still good, but the 4-Runner and Land Cruiser have become over priced yuppie-mobiles. The solution? Nothing less than a complete overhaul from the top down. A big hurdle is the dollar/yen relationship, but that will change in time. Fire the marketing department, and get a new ad agency. "I Love What You Do for Me" is a relic from the past. Fire the product planners that brought us the T100, Avalon, and cancelled the MR2. [note: The MR2 has NOT been cancelled, but was at the time of the original post.] Ride herd on the dealer network, the last bastion of plaid leisure suits in the industry. With some notable exceptions, Toyota dealers are rapidly building a very bad reputation. The worst thing about a Toyota is that you have to buy it from a Toyota dealer, and people everywhere know it. Let's see some innovative, fresh, and competitive designs. Blow the conservative cobwebs out of the styling departments, and give us the good chassis stuff they reserve for the European and Japanese markets. A Celica GTS with the 2.0L Turbo engine from the GT4 would be a good start, if the price was right. For that matter, import the GT4 but price it competitively with the Eagle Talon, and market it effectively. Bring back the MR2 with the same engine, but strip out the fluff and position it against the Miata and Del Sol. Make it a no-nonsense *sports* car, as opposed to a fluffy yupster sporty car, and market it as same. How does a $17,500 MR2 sound to everyone? They could do it with parts on the shelf, and use it as an image-builder. The low-end enthusiast market is growing, thanks to the recession, and a lean MR2 would find a ready market. They'd be fools not too because Honda is readying a similar mid-engine sports car, and everyone knows about the upcoming BMW roadster. Give us a Corolla GTS coupe to compete with the Nissan Sentra SE-R and Neon. Put an updated 5AGE engine in it, tune the chassis to match, fit it with 15" alloys, and market it properly. The current Corolla is a decent little sedan, but god is it boring. Well, as you can see, I'm a little miffed by Toyota, these days. I wouldn't buy a new one, that's for sure. I've had 3 over the past 16 years, with three more in the family, but now that the rear wheel drive models are aging beyond desirability as a used car, my next machine will probably come from a different company. I've even steered some potential Camry owners towards a 626, which is a much better value, and once the Neon proves itself, will stop recommending Corolla/Prizm's. Goodbye, Toyota, it was fun while it lasted. Hope you get it together before Chrysler eats your lunch. > By the way, Cliff, you sounded hesitant to visit your dealership's > service department. (You "finally" went there!) May I ask why? As a > dealership service department employee, I often meet people who hold me > with little regard. Would it be fair of me to assume you feel > similarly? If so, what can I do to make owners of new Toyotas feel > comfortable about the service department? In contrast, if I'm reading > too much into your message, what aspects of dealer service do you or > don't you like? How can I improve things to make the dealership > appealing? > > -Nate Nate, I agree with those who have posted so far on two major gripes about Toyota dealers (these apply to ALL dealers, not just Toyota): 1. They do good work, probably the best in the business, but the prices are incredibly high, particularly for parts that they know you can't get anywhere else. I could go on for pages about parts that I've had to pay exorbitant prices for, but here's a few highlights: $60 for a thin 20-inch aluminum moulding strip that weighed about 6oz, plus $5 EACH for the four tiny 0.25" wide plastic clips that hold the moulding down (those clips can't cost more than 10 cents to mass-produce; in fact, the guy at the parts counter said dealer cost was $1.25; 400% markup). You're probably familiar with something called a torque plate--it bolts to the steering knuckle, fits over the brake rotor and has a pin sticking out of it that holds the brake caliper. Just a chunk of aluminum, maybe 2 lbs worth. 150 bucks. $88 for ONE coil spring; $100 for a throttle position sensor. I realize I may be bashing the parts department here, but when people see the bill, they just look at the total and conclude that the shop is ridiculously expensive. $45/hr for labor probably isn't bad considering the expertise you're getting (if the dealer can't fix it, nobody can), but they *really* screw you on the parts. 2. Dealers seem to jump on the opportunity to sell unnecessary service to the unsuspecting customer. Almost every dealer I've seen publishes their own "recommended" maint schedule for the cars they sell, which is usually VERY different than the manufacturer's schedule, recommending certain services MUCH more frequently, and things that aren't even on the manufacturer's schedule. They publish this in a brightly colored flyer complete with coupons, and supply the whole package along with a sales pitch for the service dept when the customer buys the car. How many people bother to compare the dealer's schedule with the one in the owner's manual? How many people even know that the owner's manual HAS a service schedule in it? Why should they bother to look anywhere else when the nice salesman just handed it to them? (Remainder of message and author's signature truncated by accident.) --- >From the Police Report of the Northwest Side section of the July 7, 1994 Chicago Tribune: "A 1989 Toyota Camry parked in an apartment complex in the 1400 block of South Busse Road was burglarized between 10 p.m. Monday and 9 a.m. Tuesday, police said. The burglar entered the vehicle by removing the windshield molding and attempting to pry back the windshield, eventually shattering it. The burglar stole a radar detector, VCR, clothing and the windshield molding, police said." ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had no idea that part was so hard to find... - Andy Green (acg@dlogics.dlogics.com) --- While you are at the dealer, don't bend over. ;-) - Richard Neill Dabney *EOF*