Now I was ready to install my pre-built struts (see the beginning of this how to for info).
First thing to do was to install one end of my new drop link to the strut, I don’t have a picture of this but all it involved was popping the threaded stud on the drop link ball joint through the bracket on the strut from the inside out.
Then screw on the nyloc nut and then tighten up to the recommended torque of 47 ft-lb using a 17mm spanner and 17mm socket.
(I was able to use a spanner instead of a 5mm allen key on my new drop links because the ball joint itself had spanner flats instead of an allen key socket).
Before attempting to install the strut I needed to check that the top cup was still orientated correctly with the word OUT and arrow pointing towards the outside of the car with the hub mounting bracket lined up properly.
Also the edge of the upper swivel part of the top mount that is cut in slightly has to face the rear of the car..see picture below. Although in this picture it needs to be rotated 90 degrees to line up.
Being careful not to move anything I then threaded the strut up into the wheel arch whilst lining up the 4 top mount studs with the holes in the strut tower.
I then propped the bottom of the strut against the lower suspension arm while I loosely fitted the 4 nuts at the top.
Next I fitted the bottom of the strut to the hub mounting lug, this needed the hub depressing slightly with body weight to get it low enough for the bracket to line up.
Then using my trolley jack handle as a makeshift lever to press down on the lower suspension arm I was able to fit the hub to strut mounting bolts.
Next job was to connect the bottom end of the new drop link to the ARB, and again tighten up to the recommended torque of 47 ft-lb. The strut to hub mounting bolts were tightened to the recommended torque of 188 ft-lb using a torque wrench and 19mm socket & spanner.
Then it was back to the top mount nuts and using a torque wrench and 14mm socket they were tightened to the recommended setting of 26 ft-lbs.
I then checked the torque of the piston rod top nut which should be tightened to 36ft-lbs..be careful to hold the strut top cup in place to prevent it turning..I used a set of molegrips to to clamp the edge and hold onto it while tightening with the torque wrench.
I then threaded the brake hose through the strut bracket and fitted a new bottom clip (sourced from Toyota for 88p part No.90468-08034) and then connected up the banjo bolt to the calliper with 2 new copper crush washers.
I then bled the air out of the system using an easy bleeder kit and refitted the road wheel. I then went on to repeat the procedure for the passenger side.
I have taken the car out for a test drive and although I still have my ball joints and most of the high & tight bushes to fit, I can honestly say it has transformed the ride of the car totally. Gone are the rattles and bangs that were present previously and the overall drive is much much smoother. I have yet to really try it in anger but so far I’m impressed.
As for overall drop, Tein say the drop should be approx 35-38mm, but I measured the car beforehand and the back was 630mm to the inside edge of the wheel arch and the front was 640mm from flat level ground.
After drop my measurements are 610mm at the rear and 610mm at the front. This has confirmed my suspicions that my standard rear springs were seriously sagging, as were my fronts to a lesser degree. The front of my car has always appeared to sit higher than the back, so this has now been corrected which I am happy about.
Thanks for reading…Bob