Quote:
Originally Posted by mr220v
There is probably more willingness to blow up a $500 1zz than a $2000 2zz.
I guess the lift point would be an issue. You could use an rpm activated switch to have it come on a little bit sooner. I'm sure somebody has tried this, wonder what the outcome was?
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Moving lift point lower does no good unless you can change timing to suit it. You need a standalone and a good tune to do it right.
Theyve played with this over at newcelica.org
Seriously anyone looking to play around with a 2zz needs to go over there. They were the first ones to do it. Before people were putting them in MR2s, these guys were messing with them.
I dont think the 2zz vs 1zz hp thing is an issue of being afraid to blow up an engine. This has been done by a company who I doubt has too much concern over blowing up an engine in the interest of R&D. The 1zz is a better choice to go with for boost. The only reason why youd want a 2zz for boost is if you ARENT going balls out. Like if youre just looking for around 250-300 hp on a low boost setup on a 2zz thats great. You get boost, then you get LIFT and a fun powerband.
I was just saying what I did, because straight up, to this day, 1zz's are making more power with turbos right now. So if thats your bag of chips and you want to make a really fast spyder with a turbo, Id stick with the 1zz. If you want that honda like powerband and fun of an 8200 rpm redline (even higher with a powerfc) then go with the 2zz.