Toyota MR2 Message Board - View Single Post

Brad Bedell · 09-06-2005, 11:15 AM

I have taken most of this info from the old message board and modified for accuracy. For now, if you have anything that I need to modify/edit please let me know. I have pretty much directly copied the original posts. Please let me know if I didn't give someone proper credit.

Great source for used parts: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

This post assumes you have a turbo car, If you have a non turbo car, it's important for you to understand that the cars are virtually identical. ESPECIALLY after you yank the original engine out of the chassis. See below for minor NA differences:

Please use this forum only to post info that you have tried and tested. IN order to keep this thread readable and helpful, Please start a new thread if you have a question, we will update the accuracy of the information as it is confirmed or contradicted.

Please try the MR2Board FAQ (coming soon) and the remainder of this post before you start your own thread.
Bedell Racing

Photos of V6 projects can be found here: (email me with links and I'll add your photos to the list)
Bedell Racing

If these links are dead, look for my web site at BEDELLRACING.COM

Engines: Compatiblity / Grocery List
1997+: 1MZ-FE
Best choice for swap.

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, power will be less than the later engines. A benefit of an OBD I engine would make CA swaps easier to get past BAR.
Early 90's *vz engines have been proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry
Sienna
Highlander
Basically anything that has a transverse mounted *mz engine.

02+ 3mzfe with VVT-I
--It's easier to avoid the drive by wire on this engine. It's very similar to the --1mz VVt-I engines. In concept, you are electronically converting the --3mz to an earlier 1mz with VVT-I. Injectors are the same size. Just play --with the AFM tube to get the fuel trims correct.

--Parts list should all be 00-02 1mz-vvt-i unless otherwise specified.
--ECU, early part numbers didn't have Immobilizer. --http://www.abclockandkey.com/ can reflash an Immobilizer ECU into a non.
--Wiring harness
--Throttle bodies, upper and lower intake. Non VVT-I intakes WILL NOT work --due to the solenoids.
--knock sensors to match the ECU
--O2 sensors to match the ECU.

What to Buy / Get with Engine:

What to Buy / Get with the Engine:
Match engine/ECU, they may interchange but Toyota changed sensors and or wiring harnesses from year to year.

-- Engine Long Block -
-- V6 transmission: E53 (early Camry) E153 (97+ camry) E153 (Turbo)
You can run a non turbo tranny (S54, but it doesn't fully bolt up)
-- AC Compressor to match engine
--Alternator*
-- AC Lines to compressor (cut)
-- Alternator
-- MR2 engine mounts, reuse or get new ones. Right side will need to be fabricated.
-- Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
-- ECU
-- ECU Harness (uncut)
-- Dash Plugs that go to ECU (or you can splice)
-- Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional

02+ 3mzfe with VVT-I
--It's easier to avoid the drive by wire on this engine. It's very similar to the --1mz VVt-I engines. In concept, you are electronically converting the --3mz to an earlier 1mz with VVT-I. Injectors are the same size. Just play --with the AFM tube to get the fuel trims correct.

--Parts list should all be 00-02 1mz-vvt-i unless otherwise specified.
--ECU, early part numbers didn't have Immobilizer. --http://www.abclockandkey.com/ can reflash an Immobilizer ECU into a non.
--Wiring harness
--Throttle bodies, upper and lower intake. Non VVT-I intakes WILL NOT work --due to the solenoids.
--knock sensors to match the ECU
--O2 sensors to match the ECU.

Fooling the auto/manual ECU's
Non VVt-I ecus have a pin that you ground to make them think they are Manual/auto.
VVT-I ECU's don't have this pin, or I've been unable to find it. You'll need to make a resistor pack to fool the transmission. There's a post about this somewhere, I'll try to dig it up and update it later. IF not, do a search for it.
Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren't really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don't worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you'd like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General

You can spend the time to recreate the Camry mounts or take a more simple route and only build the right side mount. The remaining mounts will bolt up since they are on your transmission.

IF using the MR2 mounts, it's very advisable that you fill your motor mounts or buy inserts.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accommodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from an early 1mzfe (94-95?) which is a direct fit.

Early 1mz engines (I think 93-94) has a return fuel rail setup. This gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. ...if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

...if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail I would recommend the 1mz-FE rail install...save time and will be 100% OEM.

Tapping the Rail Option
"The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system." -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
See one of the other stickies, or do a search. I used a tach adapter, but there' a how to floating around to modify your stock tach to work. Or, contact V6'er for the service.

Non Turbo swap

If you're starting from a Non turbo car:
Make a transmission choice. Either swapping to the Turbo E153 transmission(or variation) or stick with the S54.

If upgrading to the stronger turbo transmission from the non turbo You'll need the following turbo parts:
hubs & bearings
axles
shift cables
Clutch slave cylinder & related brackets
Motor Mounts(drivers side, front and rear)

09-06-2005, 11:15 AM	#1 (permalink)
Brad Bedell V6 MR2 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 342 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (15/100% )	V6 Swap Info I have taken most of this info from the old message board and modified for accuracy. For now, if you have anything that I need to modify/edit please let me know. I have pretty much directly copied the original posts. Please let me know if I didn't give someone proper credit. Great source for used parts: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market This post assumes you have a turbo car, If you have a non turbo car, it's important for you to understand that the cars are virtually identical. ESPECIALLY after you yank the original engine out of the chassis. See below for minor NA differences: Please use this forum only to post info that you have tried and tested. IN order to keep this thread readable and helpful, Please start a new thread if you have a question, we will update the accuracy of the information as it is confirmed or contradicted. Please try the MR2Board FAQ (coming soon) and the remainder of this post before you start your own thread. Bedell Racing Photos of V6 projects can be found here: (email me with links and I'll add your photos to the list) Bedell Racing If these links are dead, look for my web site at BEDELLRACING.COM Engines: Compatiblity / Grocery List 1997+: 1MZ-FE Best choice for swap. 1992-1996: 1MZ-FE Compatible, power will be less than the later engines. A benefit of an OBD I engine would make CA swaps easier to get past BAR. Early 90's vz engines have been proven to work also Source Cars: Avalon Solara Lexus ES300 Camry Sienna Highlander Basically anything that has a transverse mounted mz engine. 02+ 3mzfe with VVT-I --It's easier to avoid the drive by wire on this engine. It's very similar to the --1mz VVt-I engines. In concept, you are electronically converting the --3mz to an earlier 1mz with VVT-I. Injectors are the same size. Just play --with the AFM tube to get the fuel trims correct. --Parts list should all be 00-02 1mz-vvt-i unless otherwise specified. --ECU, early part numbers didn't have Immobilizer. --http://www.abclockandkey.com/ can reflash an Immobilizer ECU into a non. --Wiring harness --Throttle bodies, upper and lower intake. Non VVT-I intakes WILL NOT work --due to the solenoids. --knock sensors to match the ECU --O2 sensors to match the ECU. What to Buy / Get with Engine:* What to Buy / Get with the Engine: Match engine/ECU, they may interchange but Toyota changed sensors and or wiring harnesses from year to year. -- Engine Long Block - -- V6 transmission: E53 (early Camry) E153 (97+ camry) E153 (Turbo) You can run a non turbo tranny (S54, but it doesn't fully bolt up) -- AC Compressor to match engine --Alternator* -- AC Lines to compressor (cut) -- Alternator -- MR2 engine mounts, reuse or get new ones. Right side will need to be fabricated. -- Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there) -- ECU -- ECU Harness (uncut) -- Dash Plugs that go to ECU (or you can splice) -- Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)optional 02+ 3mzfe with VVT-I --It's easier to avoid the drive by wire on this engine. It's very similar to the --1mz VVt-I engines. In concept, you are electronically converting the --3mz to an earlier 1mz with VVT-I. Injectors are the same size. Just play --with the AFM tube to get the fuel trims correct. --Parts list should all be 00-02 1mz-vvt-i unless otherwise specified. --ECU, early part numbers didn't have Immobilizer. --http://www.abclockandkey.com/ can reflash an Immobilizer ECU into a non. --Wiring harness --Throttle bodies, upper and lower intake. Non VVT-I intakes WILL NOT work --due to the solenoids. --knock sensors to match the ECU --O2 sensors to match the ECU. Fooling the auto/manual ECU's* Non VVt-I ecus have a pin that you ground to make them think they are Manual/auto. VVT-I ECU's don't have this pin, or I've been unable to find it. You'll need to make a resistor pack to fool the transmission. There's a post about this somewhere, I'll try to dig it up and update it later. IF not, do a search for it. Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read There aren't really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don't worry about upsetting your balance. Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT) There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you'd like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003) Engine Mounts: General You can spend the time to recreate the Camry mounts or take a more simple route and only build the right side mount. The remaining mounts will bolt up since they are on your transmission. IF using the MR2 mounts, it's very advisable that you fill your motor mounts or buy inserts. Fuel Return: Adapting Properly The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accommodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from an early 1mzfe (94-95?) which is a direct fit. Early 1mz engines (I think 93-94) has a return fuel rail setup. This gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. ...if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in. ...if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail I would recommend the 1mz-FE rail install...save time and will be 100% OEM. Tapping the Rail Option "The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system." -chall I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars. Tachometer: Get it Working See one of the other stickies, or do a search. I used a tach adapter, but there' a how to floating around to modify your stock tach to work. Or, contact V6'er for the service. Non Turbo swap If you're starting from a Non turbo car: Make a transmission choice. Either swapping to the Turbo E153 transmission(or variation) or stick with the S54. If upgrading to the stronger turbo transmission from the non turbo You'll need the following turbo parts: hubs & bearings axles shift cables Clutch slave cylinder & related brackets Motor Mounts(drivers side, front and rear) Last edited by Brad Bedell; 05-19-2008 at 10:15 AM..