Using V6 Transmission: Shift Linkage
The easiest and most precise way to do this is to use a MR2 E153 center case and transfer all the parts over. This requires you to disassemble the transmission, but it's not a huge deal.
Otherwise:
"You will have to drill hole on front side for rod for MR2 linkage
and buy a cover (has 4 bolts on other side of linkage)" -derek2000GT
BUT:
"The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them." -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)
Different transmissions have different bolt holes. The pattern is the same. Beware that sometimes the dowel pins will interfere and you may have to remove them from the block of the transmission.
#1 choice: V6 bell housing.
#2 choice: 93+ E153 bell housing
#3 choice: S54 (this will have the fewest bolt holes)
Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003
A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS:
Advanced Engine Management - Wolf EFI Fuel Injection and Performance Ignition Control Systems) -derek2000GT
Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
"The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ....Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle" -derek2000GT
The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.
*EDIT*
Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)
Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.
These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.
The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I'm finished later this week.
I have water pipes available, PM me for more info. You'll need to cut your stock pipes, but this is a clean solution. Do a search for water pipes in this section.
Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC's how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.
**Pete94t**
IF you don't want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver's side and it's the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.
**Edit**
This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.
**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the '91-'93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny--easy to do.
The half shafts are turbo on the driver's side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8" or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.
Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.
--I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.
--I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.
Claire
*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm
**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.
I don't have successful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the '90/'95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.
Here is what I think about the swap:
--Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.
--You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.
--I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.
--I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.
--I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.
--I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.
--I would have the passenger axle machined.
--If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don't know.
--You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers' side.
--I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.
Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.
**SBCelicaGT**
1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.
axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen aren't rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.
the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.
ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.