[Jeff]

I followed the procedure outlined in the Toyota manual for checking voltage at the ECU. I used the E1 for ground I believe and checked terminals +B, +B1, and batt and all had 12 volts. I also checked STA while cranking and got 6-8 volts. I think I had 2 volts on IGN with ignition on. The manual says to check it with engine idling (but obviously that can't happen). I believe I checked a few other circuits that may possibly have something to do with ignition or cranking, but I can't remember.

There was no check engine light before or after it died while driving. When I put the key in the ignition and turn to the on position, the check engine light will not come on at all, not even for a few seconds. The only way I can get the check engine light to come on at all is to ground the W terminal.

I have searched for a week now to find a used computer. I'm looking for 89661-17390. I checked the network junkyards use to list their parts for sale and submitted a request to find this part since it wasn't listed. Two weeks and no response. I checked e-bay. I checked this forum. Nothing. If someone has this part, I'll buy it right now. I can get a remanufactured part for about the same money as sending mine in for repair. It is the cheapest option I have now. The dealership cost me about $715 and had to get it towed back home when they couldn't find the problem. I have $80 in tow fees and about $80 in parts after I got it back home trying to find the problem. So another $290 isn't that much.

Thoughts on all this? Should I still try to find codes in the computer? Did the theft system malfunction? The dealership tested the theft deterrent ECU. They, among other things, checked fuses, distributor pickup's, installed a new ignitor, I put on a new distributor cap and ignition coil. I'm not sure what is left to test.

Added information - I see why E2 is important now. I checked this and I'm getting 12 volts from both +B and +B1 to E2.