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there are some flaws in your statements here though......
the water doesn't flow that direction..... 4ag pumps don't push water that way..... and all 4ag pumps (save the ae86 pump because it has a different pulley system for the RWD stuff) are the same.... hell, they're the same as the 4afe pumps.....
the pumps pull the water from the "upper" hose that runs off the oil cooler through the motor and out the back of it pushing the coolant through the large metal pipe on the back of the block.... the water inlet sits above the water pump on the head and is where the upper hose connects to (and this can easily be proven by opening the cap and watching the flow of the coolant).
The coolant gets up to temp in the engine quickly because the pump is forcing it through the motor, into the back of the t-stat which doesn't open until it gets to temp. The heater will heat up quickly because the thermostat housing has a bypass that leads to the heater.
also the hoses that run to the idle air control valve aren't on the thermostat housing.... they run to the 2 metal pipes that run the length of the motor on the intake side..... there is a 4" or so rubber hose that runs from the main pipe to the back of the thermostat housing
the thermostats will go in only 1 way..... instead of telling the direction it faces it would be more pertinent to explain that it's necessary to make sure none of the old o-ring has gotten stuck in the housing as to ensure a good seal of the new t-stat
as for "bleeding" the system.... anyone who does a lot of mr2 work (or a lot of cooling system work in general) should purchase a Snap-On RadkitplusA (or similar tool)..... don't fear the snap-on name... i got mine on ebay for $100 and they can be purchased brand new for $200, all you need is a compressor.... the last mr2 I used it on was an 86 with a 20V, and it took about 10 minutes to fill the system air-free w/o running the motor.
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