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| 20v Swaps Everything you need to know about putting the 20 valve 4A-GE in your AW11 MK1 MR2. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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wonderful thank you. i also figured out that my mr2 i pulled the transmission from did not have the hydorlic clutch adaptor. (good thing I have 2) im hooking up the clutch as I type. can you point me to an auction on ebay that has an O2 sensor that matches the Mr220v harmess? Maybe when im done with this thread ill change the name to the complete newb guide to the 20v swap.
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#22 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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Ok, its time to try and start it. I'm having difficulty nailing down where the fuel goes. I hooked up the sending fuel line. (the one that sprays gasoline everywhere when its not plugged into something.) On the drivers side. Using fastrax203's picture. And where is the recieving line, and where does it plug in?
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#23 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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So... I hooked up the send fuel line, and found it spewing out off a hole by the driverside rear tire area. I connected a hose to it, and to the spot directly below the "send" line is located. I then went to start the car. Trys to turn over then makes a loud "CLUNK" sound. It immediately stops moving and spews gas out the exhaust manifold. I checked my timing on the dizzy, moved it to various positions, I also verified I had my sparkplugs in the right order. Did I hook up the fuel right? Whats the next step to figure out why it won't turn over?
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#24 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I don't know what you hooked the fuel return line up to but it doesn't sound good. You may have hydraulically locked up the engine (filled a cylinder with fuel). Pull your spark plugs and make sure none of them are full of gasoline. Then make sure the engine will turn over BY HAND, do not attempt to start with the starter.
The fuel return line leaves the pressure regulator (short rubber hose to steel line) on the passenger side of the fuel manifold and passes under the throttle bodies to the drivers side (end of steel line) where you have to run a hose from the steel line to your fuel return line on the firewall. Hope this helps. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2006
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I don't know if it's that complicated. Do you have good engine to chasis grounding?
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#26 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Good point mr220v, without good grounding from the engine to chassis you won't get any rotation, and the ignitor and coil must also be grounded to the engine or you don't get spark.
It's his CLUNK sound, gas coming from the exhaust manifold and the engine stopping that is worrisome and made me wonder about a hydraulic lock. The possibility of the fuel return line being connected to a vacuum line and pouring raw gas into the intake manifold, thus filling a cylinder. Hope I'm wrong. |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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I added an extra ground to the transmission, two 12 gauge wires. I'm using 4 gauge wire for the battery connections. I do believe that my timing was off. once I took off the valve cover, I saw that cylinder 3 had the valves up for both the I and E side. I readjusted the timing but can't test for a couple days.
Also you arn't wrong. The way I had the gas lines plugged in, I filled the place where the cams sit with gasoline. so I'm pretty sure I flooded the whole engine. I'm leaving the valve cover off for a couple days, try and let it evaporate. I've taken pictures with my phone to show where I had the gaslines plugged in. I know the Gas lines are the wrong place, but I need to figure out the exact place they are supposed to plug in. I'll sift through the forums for some pictures. Apparently common sense is something I lack. I had both lines plugged in on the drivers side. I think I know where they go now, but it doesn't seem that the standard gas lines fit. I'll post pictures as soon as I can get on my wifes computer. Prolly tomorrow. I really appreciate everyones help. BTW when I go and turn the motor with a wrench, it turns about a quarter a turn real easy then it requires more force for a bit, then another quarter turn is easy. is this the standard? |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Send me a PM with your E mail address. My wife is coming home tomorrow - Monday (she has the digital camera) and I can take some pictures and mail them to you. I haven't figured out how to post pictures on the forum yet. I looked thru all I have of my engine pictures and don't have anything that really would help for this. Some are close, but not what you need.
Engine conversions are not for the faint of heart, and your attempting to do this starting from an empty engine compartment makes it 10x harder. 4cyl, 4 stroke engines have a compression cycle every 180 degrees, it sounds like that's what you are experiencing. |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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So... retimed it. Hooked up the fuel line to the bottom option on drivers side. I turned the key, and the motor cycled a coupple times and then shot the gas out of the exhaust manifold again.
Seems like gas is filling a cylinder Like you suggested. Because I took the valve cover off last week, let it sit all week, and then put the motor back together. at first it tried to turn over fine, Then it did the same thing as before. That clunk sound is actually the sound of gas being shot out of the motor through the exhaust manifold. so theoretically I could still be pouring gas into an air hose, but I didn't experience the problem of gasoline pouring out of a known air hose. It just seemed to be coming out of the exhaust manifold. Any clues? TJMR2 manage to snag your wifes camera? |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
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If you're getting major amounts of gas in one cylinder, two things:
1. A bad set of injector seals 2. One or more bad injectors. Sitting up can be hard on injectors. I've seen both of these items come up with 20v's. |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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Kaz, Check your E mail account for pictures. Once you make sure your fuel lines are connected properly pull your spark plugs and make sure you don't have a cylinder full of gas. If you do, dry them out, turn on the ignition (don't crank it over, watch thru the spark plug holes with a flashlight), to see if one of the cylinders fills up again. If it does you probably have injector problems as mr220v suggests.
If you have had raw gas in the cylinders I'd check the oil for gas and change it before trying to start the engine once you sort out the fuel problem. Considering the money you have tied up in the project an extra oil change is like adding a penny to the cost of the total project, but may save the engine. Also pour a small amount of oil down the spark plug holes, just enough to lubricate the rings before you put the spark plugs back in and try to start it. Good luck, hope this helps. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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Look at the last picture I sent you #2585 The fuel pressure line is directly below the brass fitting, (bolted to the transmission) coming from the fuel filter. It attaches to the banjo fitting just above the middle of the hook frame, almost directly above the left red capped vacuum pipe, below and to the left of the spring hose clamp. The end of the hose clamped by the spring hose clamp is covering the edge of the banjo fitting for the supply line. For a picture of a banjo fitting go to the following link.
banjo fittings - Hydraulic Supply Co. |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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So i'm still hooking up the fuel line the wrong way. I've looked through a whole bunch of diagrams, pictures etc. I'm sick of this and decided its time to throw money at it to solve my problems. I ordered the side2side racing vaccum kit, it says it comes with instructions for dummies. also. my first attached image. hopefully you can see the red I drew on it. Is this hose I'm circling connecting to the spot on the motor i'm circling? is it the fuel send hose? does it send fuel into the motor from the fuel filter? or am I still sending fuel the wrong direction?
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#37 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2006
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The 17mm bolt you circled is the banjo fitting for incoming fuel. The fuel line you circled is the return line back to the tank.
Basically fuel enters the engine, runs across the fuel rail (some into the injectors), past the fuel pressure regulator, under the itbs, to that standard clamp fitting, though a hose, back to the hard return line by the fuel filter, and back to the tank. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mr220v For This Useful Post: | kazin1111 (08-26-2008) |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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ok, that pic is not my motor. however. if the bolt I circled is the fuel send line. then I have the right hose hooked up. so I just need to hook up my return line. I must have my vaccum hoses hooked up wrong. when I send fuel through that 17mm bolt, it pours out of a soft rubber hose on the rear drivers side. I circled it in this picture.
so if my return hose is not hooked up, (and everything else is hooked up right) I should have gas pouring out of the passenger side of the fuel rail? (instead of this soft rubber hose) |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Actually, with no return hose, it will be pouring out the driver's side of the motor and onto the transmission.
Hook a hose up to that line, and the return line by the fuel filter. |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Weak Skills
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When you say "hook up a hose to that line" are you refering to the hose in my picture above? also, the return line is the line that goes from the bottom of my fuel filter, under the ITB's and connects to the silver connector just like the one in this picture, except on the PASSENGER side?
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