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20v Swaps Everything you need to know about putting the 20 valve 4A-GE in your AW11 MK1 MR2.

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Old 09-29-2008, 05:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HELP Head stud broke off inside block.

Without leaving explitives.... My head stud snapped off when I was tightening it. It is stuck inside the block and I cant fish it out with a screwdriver.... I can't get it to turn. HELP!!!!
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you talking about an exhaust stud or what?

Is the metal of the stud broken off inside the head or is it sticking out at all?

If it's broken off inside then you're stuck having to drill it out. You're going to have to be damn careful because the stud is steel and the head is aluminum.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you have any ezi outs? aka screw extractors?
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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no I don't, but i'll figure out what those are. it is a head stud for torquing down the head to the block. what do I do... Drill? please tell me there is an alternative... it isn't sticking out at all. its completely snapped in the block.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kazin1111 View Post
no I don't, but i'll figure out what those are. it is a head stud for torquing down the head to the block. what do I do... Drill? please tell me there is an alternative... it isn't sticking out at all. its completely snapped in the block.
Mate,

Ezy-outs are one of the best things i've bought.



i would imagine the bolt has sheared flush with the block. just drill a small 2-3mm pilot-hole in the top of the bolt stub still stuck in the block (this is the hardest part, as the sheared surface is seldom flat, and you have to be VERY careful that the drill bit doesnt wander and touch the alloy. just take it SLOW)

then it always helps to put a bit of Supa-Grip (or some other friction enhancer if you have one at hand...also another great purchase) into the hole and slowly wind the Easy-out in. It has a reverse thread so as wou wind it in, as it starts to bite it winds the sheared bolt out.

Good luck with it mate
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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an EZ OUT is what you're looking for, it's simply a drill bit that's designed to snag in the opposite direction. I know that doesn't make much sense. You drill a small hole in the middle of that broken stud, jam this easy out in there, and as you "lefty-loosy" it, the bit is designed to dig in further the more you try to loosen that stud. May wanna wd-40 that s*** first though cuz if it was stuck enough to break, I'm sure it won't be all that EZ to get out :/
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Old 09-29-2008, 02:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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There is this stuff like wd-40 i cant remember the name but i use it all the time to clean out studs and what not. i found it at any local part store.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Have you had any success using EZ outs on something that small?
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I need to get some of these ezy-outs! I had some of those bolts break off when removing the plastic panels on the bottom of my deuce!
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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this situation is "the suck".

+13 for screw extractor. You'd need to look up the directions to be sure, but iirc you drill the pilot hole as mentioned (you need it big enough to get the tip of the extractor into it enough to bite), then tap it with a mallet to get it seated, and then back the screw out.

As a side question to you other users, what do you use to attach to the other side of the ez out? Mine have square heads, and when my drill wont get them out im slightly screwed.
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks like I completely failed at this. The bolt is still buried 1 inch deep into the block and I have ovaled out the hole. I towed it to a shop and they said get a new block. I called 2 machine shops and they said get a new block...
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thats unfortunate, keep calling machine shops, they have experience with this kind of stuff. Chances are it snapped because the threads were locked by something like corrosion, no way an easy out is going to get enough torque on that. Only thing i can thnk of is try heating the surrounding metal and try to easyout it, but it sounds like a job for a machine shop thats willing to do it.
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PVpower View Post
There is this stuff like wd-40 i cant remember the name but i use it all the time to clean out studs and what not. i found it at any local part store.
Could it be PB Penetrating oil?
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Old 09-30-2008, 09:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Good ol' PB lube!!! I swear by that stuff! Works great!!!!
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Old 09-30-2008, 11:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Good ol' PB lube!!! I swear by that stuff! Works great!!!!
Thats what she said... OHHHHHH!



*cricket* *cricket*
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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EZ outs are made to be twisted with tap handles which are special adjustable handles made to apply an even force to a tap. The EZ out is really hard steel, harder than high speed steel drill bits. Break an EZ out off in a broken bolt and about all that will drill it out is a carbide drill.

There are specific size drill bits for each size of EZ out, sometimes it is listed on the EZ out itself.

There are also other options for Kazin than replacing the block. Sadly a machine shop won't be able to set up to remove the broken head stud with the block in the car. Probably have to strip the block so they can bolt it down on a mill to drill it out accurately. They might be able to use a bigger EZ out. Or in a last resort drill out the stud and install a helicoil or a threaded insert.

A friend once told me of a bolt that he had broken off in a block, he called a welder that somehow welded a stud to the broken off bolt, which he then unscrewed.

There are many options other than replacing the block. Ask the old machinist or welder, how to get that bad boy out. Try the instructors at the local community college.

Good luck!
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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heh... thanks tjmr2. But ive tried about 16 shops now, towed it 4 times... i'm going for the hail mary. JB weld. I'm gonna seal that bolt hole and put back on the head...
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Old 10-08-2008, 01:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I'd try the 16v block first.....or possibly just getting a different silvertop and parting this one out. You could get a good bit of your money back this way. Probably $300 for the head and itbs, and I'd give you $50 for the cut harness.

If you can get a replacement for $500, that would be the way to go.
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Old 10-09-2008, 01:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Wont sell me just a replacement. has to be entire swap, 1200 is the cheapest so far. Jb weld seems to be holding, 2 busted bolts now. I just figured out my father in laws torque wrench is fautly. Could be why i'm in this whole mess... anways. sealed both bolts, compression was good on 3, 30 lower on the other. I had to cut my timing belt cover last week while I was installing a replacement tensioner. I aparently didn't do a good job on it because my timing belt just got eaten up and snapped... so now I"m pulling the motor out. I get married tomorrow so I guess this has to sit for a couple weeks. any tricks to raising compression on 1 cyl? Even something that could damage the motor? I'm not exactly worried about trashing this motor. after the jb weld job I did on it, I don't think I will be able to sell it.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:31 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Oh my goodness.....
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