ST HELP!!!

87jdmmr2 · 01-05-2009, 06:23 PM

I'm doing a ST swap into my 87 n/a. I need help with a couple things:

1. can someone post up pics of their ST vacuum lines at the block and where they go? I want to make sure mine is correct.
2. for some reason, it won't start. it has spark, there is gas going into the fuel rail (not sure about through the injectors) and it started for a few seconds with starting fluid. any thoughts? bad gas maybe? fuel pump? i checked the fuel filter it was clean.
3. speedo sensor. the 87 had the mechanical one, but it looks like the ST tranny has a sensor...and it seems as if i'm missing a plug.
4. theres also a little yellow plug on the harness i'm assuming that was part of the n/a harness is missing a place. it's one of the round male ones... it's around the tranny/intake side.

any help is much appreciated

Kerry Phillips · 01-08-2009, 06:19 PM

The ST tranny does have an electronic sensor for the speedo. Rumor has it that one fellow managed to remove the mechanical sensor from the old tranny, I do not believe it is possible. U will probably need to order two parts
#33404-12030 Sleeve
#33403-19285 Gear assembly.
On my early 87, the mechanical sensor appeared to be integrated in the tranny.
U can order these from your local Toyota dealer, but hey why not support our sponsor, LITHIA Toyota and get a discount at the same time?

Now here is a REMOTE idea, according to Mr. Haynes Auto repair manual: The mr2 auto tranny had an electronic speed sensor, so just maybe we can replace the speedometer/instrument cluster from an auto car? Ofcourse compatibility and accuracy is an unknown.

Place some Noid lights across the fuel injectors-see if they are activating.

Hopefully WX will be warm and I will be able to work on my 87 ST conversion.
Good luck
Kerry

mr220v · 01-09-2009, 04:03 PM

Did you remember to attach your circuit opening relay?

One thing to try, on the diagnostic connector, bridge +b and fp. This forces the fuelpump to run.

87jdmmr2 · 01-09-2009, 05:08 PM

got it running. now i need it to idle. i'd still like to see if someone has pictures of their vacuum setup of their silvertop so i can make sure mine is the same.

kazin1111 · 01-15-2009, 12:22 AM

Prolly not gonna find those vacuum lines posted... They are stuffed away in a vault somewhere, just like the mr220v harness building instructions. Does it idle at all or does it just drop and turn off. I had to adjust my idle because it was so low the car would die when I took my foot off the pedal.

87jdmmr2 · 01-21-2009, 03:34 PM

it raises real quick like it's going to warm up and then just drops off until it dies.

kazin1111 · 01-24-2009, 12:34 AM

does it lag on the way down? could be vacuum. does it bounce down and die? could be map sensor.

240kat · 01-25-2009, 09:14 PM

bought this car today, thinking it could be vacuum related, but if anyone has expierance with this, help is appreciated.

87jdmmr2 · 01-28-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazin1111

does it lag on the way down? could be vacuum. does it bounce down and die? could be map sensor.

it's MAF not MAP. ST ecu.

mr220v · 01-28-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87jdmmr2

it raises real quick like it's going to warm up and then just drops off until it dies.

The typical reason for it not to idle is airbox leaks. Basically if you have not tightened down all the airbox bolts, or if you didn't hook your idle control hose back up, air is being drawn from other places, and not running through the afm. If the afm gate is not able to stay open at idle, the fuelpump switch will disengage, and the motor will die.

240kat · 01-28-2009, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr220v

The typical reason for it not to idle is airbox leaks. Basically if you have not tightened down all the airbox bolts, or if you didn't hook your idle control hose back up, air is being drawn from other places, and not running through the afm. If the afm gate is not able to stay open at idle, the fuelpump switch will disengage, and the motor will die.

word, i ordered the s2s vacuum hose kit a few days ago, should be here in time for me to pick up the car. maybe ill be able to drive it home after all. lol.

mr220v · 01-28-2009, 01:58 PM

Just make sure the airbox is tight and that the intake hoses are as well, and you should be good.

240kat · 01-28-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr220v

Just make sure the airbox is tight and that the intake hoses are as well, and you should be good.

...theres no air box on it. i made a thread about what size filter i needed. iirc-its 2", but im not sure.

mr220v · 01-28-2009, 02:59 PM

When I say airbox, I mean the box that attaches directly to the itbs. So you're running open throttles right now?

240kat · 01-28-2009, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr220v

When I say airbox, I mean the box that attaches directly to the itbs. So you're running open throttles right now?

oh, i thought you meant the air filter box. the manifold (im assuming thats the part youre talking about, although there are a million names for the damn things) is intact. However, i do think there are some vacuum lines not properly hooked up, atleast, some open nipples caught my eye while looking at it. in any case, vacuum lines are in the mail, and ill put on what i see is missing before getting a car dolly.

240kat · 02-08-2009, 05:56 PM

there was a big ass hole in the intake manifold..hence the vacuum leak.
I guess the manifold is a two piece design that is kinda folded on top of itself for a seal. well, that fold broke, resulting in a big big vacuum leak. covered it with duct tape, ran just fine. It needs to be timed, and the water pump has gone to hell...and the engine needs a cleaning. so much grime under the cap after start up.

But other than that, seems okay. it doesn't read much oil pressure (maybe a few mm off of L). It still has the oil that was in it from japan, so i figure theres so much condensation in there, it just need a good cleaning, fresh oil/filter, and a good drive. I also dont have speedo, or any turn signals, intake filter, coolant overflow or exhaust. But for $1200, im okay with it. Just goes to show not buy engines from wherever he (OP) bought it from. Bent AC pulley, broken airbox, broken water pump..but it runs. HA-HA!

240kat · 02-16-2009, 12:20 PM

changed the oil and filter, filled it with water and some coolant and got it home, had to stop every 7 or so miles to let the thing cool down. it wont hold water. it spews out of a hole in the water pump. does this indicate a blown seal in the pump? anyway, took about 3 hours..but its home now.

oh yeah, any ideas on the oil pressure thing? it reads just barely above the L. It misfires a bit, and consumes a lot of fuel. it used about a half tank in a 40 mile drive. it feels like it needs to be timed, just because it runs like ass, in general. thought id also clean out the idle control valve, and run an engine flush.

im also worried of a BHG because there seems to be a bit of sludge under the coolant filler cap.

figure i'll replace the water pump, timing belt and the headgasket (after reading a bit, the green coolant that was in the car couldve ruined the HG). is there anything i should replace while the engine is this much apart?

bodinejcs · 02-16-2009, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr220v

When I say airbox, I mean the box that attaches directly to the itbs. So you're running open throttles right now?

On another note , the bolts around the airbox repeadedly vibrate loose even with lock washers so you might want to use a little loc-tite on those suckers ..
Oil pressure is low at idle but should go really high at open throttle , mines a little higher than the original 16 valve reading ...
I would check into that problem asap ....

240kat · 02-16-2009, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodinejcs

On another note , the bolts around the airbox repeadedly vibrate loose even with lock washers so you might want to use a little loc-tite on those suckers ..
Oil pressure is low at idle but should go really high at open throttle , mines a little higher than the original 16 valve reading ...
I would check into that problem asap ....

aside from a pump (dont want to replace) and a faulty sending unit (would prefer not to replace), any ideas on what could be causing a low reading? after some research, a clogged sending unit can register high/unstable readings..but im not sure about whats responsible for a low reading. plan to run an engine flush, clean out the pan/pick up. then go from there. Clean out the sending unit while im in there.

on a side note: is there much of a demand within the Toyota community for a 4age builder?

mr220v · 02-19-2009, 09:45 AM

Low idle speeds will cause the oil pressure to drop.

01-05-2009, 06:23 PM	#1 (permalink)
87jdmmr2 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	ST HELP!!! I'm doing a ST swap into my 87 n/a. I need help with a couple things: 1. can someone post up pics of their ST vacuum lines at the block and where they go? I want to make sure mine is correct. 2. for some reason, it won't start. it has spark, there is gas going into the fuel rail (not sure about through the injectors) and it started for a few seconds with starting fluid. any thoughts? bad gas maybe? fuel pump? i checked the fuel filter it was clean. 3. speedo sensor. the 87 had the mechanical one, but it looks like the ST tranny has a sensor...and it seems as if i'm missing a plug. 4. theres also a little yellow plug on the harness i'm assuming that was part of the n/a harness is missing a place. it's one of the round male ones... it's around the tranny/intake side. any help is much appreciated

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01-08-2009, 06:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
Kerry Phillips Some Skills Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 88 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The ST tranny does have an electronic sensor for the speedo. Rumor has it that one fellow managed to remove the mechanical sensor from the old tranny, I do not believe it is possible. U will probably need to order two parts #33404-12030 Sleeve #33403-19285 Gear assembly. On my early 87, the mechanical sensor appeared to be integrated in the tranny. U can order these from your local Toyota dealer, but hey why not support our sponsor, LITHIA Toyota and get a discount at the same time? Now here is a REMOTE idea, according to Mr. Haynes Auto repair manual: The mr2 auto tranny had an electronic speed sensor, so just maybe we can replace the speedometer/instrument cluster from an auto car? Ofcourse compatibility and accuracy is an unknown. Place some Noid lights across the fuel injectors-see if they are activating. Hopefully WX will be warm and I will be able to work on my 87 ST conversion. Good luck Kerry

01-09-2009, 04:03 PM	#3 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,775 Thanks: 13 Thanked 139 Times in 117 Posts iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	Did you remember to attach your circuit opening relay? One thing to try, on the diagnostic connector, bridge +b and fp. This forces the fuelpump to run.

01-09-2009, 05:08 PM	#4 (permalink)
87jdmmr2 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	got it running. now i need it to idle. i'd still like to see if someone has pictures of their vacuum setup of their silvertop so i can make sure mine is the same.

01-15-2009, 12:22 AM	#5 (permalink)
kazin1111 Weak Skills Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 122 Thanks: 11 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Prolly not gonna find those vacuum lines posted... They are stuffed away in a vault somewhere, just like the mr220v harness building instructions. Does it idle at all or does it just drop and turn off. I had to adjust my idle because it was so low the car would die when I took my foot off the pedal.

01-21-2009, 03:34 PM	#6 (permalink)
87jdmmr2 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	it raises real quick like it's going to warm up and then just drops off until it dies.

01-24-2009, 12:34 AM	#7 (permalink)
kazin1111 Weak Skills Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 122 Thanks: 11 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	does it lag on the way down? could be vacuum. does it bounce down and die? could be map sensor.

01-25-2009, 09:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
240kat Some Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 70 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	bought this car today, thinking it could be vacuum related, but if anyone has expierance with this, help is appreciated.

01-28-2009, 01:58 PM	#12 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,775 Thanks: 13 Thanked 139 Times in 117 Posts iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	Just make sure the airbox is tight and that the intake hoses are as well, and you should be good.

01-28-2009, 02:59 PM	#14 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,775 Thanks: 13 Thanked 139 Times in 117 Posts iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	When I say airbox, I mean the box that attaches directly to the itbs. So you're running open throttles right now?

02-08-2009, 05:56 PM	#16 (permalink)
240kat Some Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 70 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	there was a big ass hole in the intake manifold..hence the vacuum leak. I guess the manifold is a two piece design that is kinda folded on top of itself for a seal. well, that fold broke, resulting in a big big vacuum leak. covered it with duct tape, ran just fine. It needs to be timed, and the water pump has gone to hell...and the engine needs a cleaning. so much grime under the cap after start up. But other than that, seems okay. it doesn't read much oil pressure (maybe a few mm off of L). It still has the oil that was in it from japan, so i figure theres so much condensation in there, it just need a good cleaning, fresh oil/filter, and a good drive. I also dont have speedo, or any turn signals, intake filter, coolant overflow or exhaust. But for $1200, im okay with it. Just goes to show not buy engines from wherever he (OP) bought it from. Bent AC pulley, broken airbox, broken water pump..but it runs. HA-HA!

02-16-2009, 12:20 PM	#17 (permalink)
240kat Some Skills Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 70 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	changed the oil and filter, filled it with water and some coolant and got it home, had to stop every 7 or so miles to let the thing cool down. it wont hold water. it spews out of a hole in the water pump. does this indicate a blown seal in the pump? anyway, took about 3 hours..but its home now. oh yeah, any ideas on the oil pressure thing? it reads just barely above the L. It misfires a bit, and consumes a lot of fuel. it used about a half tank in a 40 mile drive. it feels like it needs to be timed, just because it runs like ass, in general. thought id also clean out the idle control valve, and run an engine flush. im also worried of a BHG because there seems to be a bit of sludge under the coolant filler cap. figure i'll replace the water pump, timing belt and the headgasket (after reading a bit, the green coolant that was in the car couldve ruined the HG). is there anything i should replace while the engine is this much apart?

02-19-2009, 09:45 AM	#20 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,775 Thanks: 13 Thanked 139 Times in 117 Posts iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	Low idle speeds will cause the oil pressure to drop.