Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsMR2
if a cheap buffer turns at 1000rpm, and a makita turns at 1000rpm, they're identical. im talking about rotary buffers, not those big two-handed orbitals sold at walmart. they do cut paint, and cut paint fine, because its the exact same action! cut is determined by the pad, compound, and speed.
if you're buffing 1000 vehicles, yes you should buy a makita class buffer. if you're going to buff your car once and stick the thing in your garage, its really a waste of money. its about durability.
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Cut is determined by the pad, compound, speed
and pressure applied. They don't both go at 1000 RPM when you apply the needed pressure to remove paint defects. The cheap buffers immediately bog down and overheat. I've found, repeatedly, that the cheap buffers just don't have the guts needed to do the job properly. Think about this... For what you pay for a couple cheap buffers, whose performance and durability are clearly inferior, you can have a quality tool. One that has the kohonies to do the job quickly and repeatedly and one that will last for years.
Here is what AutoGeek says about buffers.
Car Buffers, Car Polishers and Rotary Polishers - polishing foam pads
Here are some threads from other experienced detailers on cheap buffers.
Meguiar's Online - First time detailing. Some product advice please
Meguiar's Online - Can't afford PC..will Simonize buffer do?
Newbie ?'s on polishing. - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
PC help - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
Can I trust those cheap TurtleWax buffers? - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
The consensus is the same no matter what detailing forum you visit. People who are serious about paint correction know what works and what doesn't.
But, Tom, if a cheap buffer works for you, go for it. They clearly never worked for me.