Advancing the timing in a 91-95 mkII na
courtesy of Justin Wecker
Step 1: Painting the timing marks
The timing marks are found on the crankshaft pulley. When these marks pass the degree markings on the timing tab (discussed later), you look at the two to determine the timing of the engine. For example, if you check your timing at the factory specs you will notice the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley will line up with the 10-degree mark on the timing tab, which is stationary on the engine. This tells you your timing is set at 10 degrees.
The easiest way to find the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley is to lie down on the passenger side of the car, with your head just in front of the rear wheel, and look up toward the engine compartment. You will see a pulley, shown in the picture below. This is the crankshaft pulley. There are two distinct timing marks, one on each side of the pulley, which are actually V-shaped notches. If you don’t see the marks, get in the car, put the key in the ignition, and "bump" the starter to turn over the engine, but you don’t have to start it. Get out and check for the marks again. Keep doing this until you spot them. You’ll know them when you see them. I couldn’t get both marks to show up in this picture, but you can see the one on the inside.
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Now that you’ve found the timing marks you need to paint them so you can see them with the timing light. Get a damp rag and clean the marks. Find a small paintbrush and a bottle of white paint or whiteout (whiteout dries faster). White is the color of choice because it will show up best under the timing light. Dip your brush in the paint or whiteout and carefully paint both marks on the pulley. Try to paint only the notches themselves. Don’t get too sloppy or your timing readings won’t be as accurate. I accidentally got a little paint outside the notches, but it wasn’t enough to make a difference.
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Step 2: Removing the right engine compartment "wing cover."
Removing the right wing cover will make the timing marks easier to see. This is a simple step. Open the engine lid and you will see two phillips-head screws, one in front and one in back, holding the cover on. You will also notice a ground wire bolted to the cover. Remove this bolt with a 10mm wrench or socket. Now remove the two phillips-head screws and put the screws and bolt somewhere where you won’t lose them. The cover is further held in place by plastic clips, so remove the cover by gently wiggling it while pulling inward and slightly up (Uncle Duke). Once the cover is free, set it out of the way.
Step 3: Cleaning the timing tab.
Unlike the marks on the crankshaft pulley, the marks on the timing tab are stationary. As the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley pass the marks on the timing tab, you compare the two to determine at how many degrees the timing is set. Cleaning the tab makes the marks and numbers easier to read.
The location of the timing tab is shown in the picture below. Shine a flashlight down in there and you can’t miss it. The timing tab just looks like a block of metal.
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The timing hash marks are on the side and the numbers are on top. There is a single hash mark at 0, 5, and 15 degrees. 10 degrees is shown with a double hash mark to make setting the timing at the factory specs easier. The timing marks on the crankshaft pulley should be set between these double hash marks if reading the factory setting. Clean the timing tab with a damp rag and use a toothbrush to get between the numbers. Sorry about the blurry picture. I had a hard time getting the camera down there. You can still see what the tab looks like, though.
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Now you’re ready to begin the procedure of actually advancing the timing. Before proceeding, take Mister 2 out for a quick spin to bring the engine up to normal operating temperature. It is very important that the engine is at its normal operating temperature and is idling at the usual RPM, around 800 or so. When you get back, turn the ignition off before continuing.