Step 4: Jumping the ECU
Jumping the ECU disables the electronic timing control so the computer doesn’t retard the timing when you try to advance it. The connector you’re looking for is the gray one at the right rear top of the engine compartment and the cover says “DIAGNOSIS” (Uncle Duke). After finding the test connector, find the Vehicle Emission Control Information label on the top left corner of the engine compartment lid. There is a schematic that shows you which pins to short together. I found it helpful to copy the schematic onto a piece of graph paper and orient it as the connector appears (Uncle Duke). This makes it easier to see which pins you’re looking for. Use a paperclip or, preferably, a piece of insulated wire to jump the pins. This picture’s a bit blurry too, but the pins are still obvious.
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Step 5: Hooking up the timing light.
In order for the timing light to work, it must be connected to a +12 volt negative ground power supply. Normally, this power supply is the battery. Obviously, we can’t use the battery on our cars since it’s way up front. You’ll have to find a +12 volt supply in the engine compartment. On the left rear side of the engine compartment, you’ll find a black fuse box. Squeeze the tabs on this fuse box and pull up to remove the lid. Inside you’ll see a red rubber boot with a "+" on it. Pull this boot back to reveal two bolts and nuts. This is your +12 volt supply. Outside the fuse box, but not far away, you’ll see four large bolts, which are attached to the left rear strut. This is a good ground connection. The power leads for the timing light resemble miniature jumper cable clamps. As shown in the picture below, connect the red (positive) clamp to one of the two bolts under the red rubber boot in the fuse box. Connect the black (ground) clamp to one of the four bolts attached to the strut. Now you’ve got power!
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The last step to hooking up the timing light is connecting the inductive pickup lead to the #1 cylinder sparkplug cable. Here, it is best to have an inductive timing light as opposed to an electronic timing light. Electronic timing lights are connected between the sparkplug and sparkplug wire to determine when that particular sparkplug fires. These aren’t the best choice when dealing with electronic ignition. If you accidentally touch something you’re not supposed to, you’re going to get a nasty shock of about 40,000 volts. You certainly wouldn’t need any coffee the rest of the day! Inductive timing lights, which can be had for as little as $30, are much safer. You simply clamp the inductive pickup around the #1 sparkplug cable as shown in the picture. The sparkplug cables are labeled with white numerics.
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