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blazinmr2 · 10-31-2005, 09:03 PM

boost control cont.

The disadvantage of this type is that it allows for more boost, it doesn't allow the turbo to spool up any faster. A ball and spring type controller, such as the Hallman valve uses a preset spring to completely cut the feed to the wastegate until the desired boost level is reached. This allows for very quick turbo spool up, as well as higher boost levels. The only disadvantage of this type is that boost spikes may occur because of the rapid spool speed. Generally manual boost controllers are installed between the turbo compressor bung and the wastegate. While it is possible to run vacuum tubing into the cabin to allow the driver to adjust boost while driving, most leave the controller in the engine bay and set and forget it. Manual boost controllers are nice in that they can be easily and cheaply created with parts found at most hardware stores for less than $20. Do not pay more than $60 in parts for either type if you are buying from a dealer or speed shop (you are getting ripped off).

The second type of boost controller is an electronic boost controller. Many companies produce these, and most can be found no cheaper than $300, and on up to $1000. Electronic boost controllers come with many different features, but most can be set for an exact boost level.

Boost Monitoring
Do not attempt to raise the boost on your car without first buying and installing an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock gauge is utterly worthless. It is an electronic type, relying on an electronic sensor/control unit to indict boost-only conditions. It is slow to respond to boost increases, and not a reliable way to measure the boost level.

Most owners recommend installing a mechanical type boost gauge. A gauge of this sort can be had for not more than $60. Autometer is a generally accepted gauge manufacturer across the turbo community. Expect to pay more for a Japanese gauge, such as Greddy, HKS, Blitz, and APEX'i.
A mechanical boost gauge operates by way of a thin vacuum/boost hose that runs from an intake source in the engine bay to the gauge. Any puncture or pinch point in the line will create a faulty or no reading.

Most owners install their extra gauges with an a-pillar mount. A-pillar mounts are typically molded plastic that matches the stock interior well (at least if you have a black interior). A single metal pod can also be used and installed to the top of the dash. The stock boost gauge can be swapped out and replaced with an aftermarket gauge, however, you will have to modify your instrument cluster. Gauges can also be set into the dash, specifically in place of one of the center vents. Mounting the gauge in the glove box is possible, although not really practical.

Intake
An aftermarket intake is a quick and easy way to add 5-10hp. There are many intake kits available, including HKS, Greddy, APEX'i, K&N, Weapon R, RMS, TRD, etc. The APEX'i Super Intake seems to be highly regarded by many owners in that it filter very well, is reusable, and produces strong horsepower gains. The HKS and Greddy intake also produce strong gains, however, uses a foam element that does not filter as well as cotton filters. The HKS filter is not reusable. K&N filters are popular across the performance car community, and are reusable.

Owners considering an aftermarket intake should be warned that there will be an increase in intake noise, as you are removing the stock intake resonator. I add that I know of few people who complain though. If you are increasing boost on your MR2 Turbo it is highly recommended that you install an aftermarket intake before doing so.

Exhaust

Aftermarket exhaust systems are excellent in increasing engine power and turbo response. Gains as high as 15hp on an otherwise stock engine care often realized. Exhausts typically run $450 on up.

Many companies offer exhaust systems for the MR2 Turbo of which can be broken down into those that retain the secondary catalytic converter and those that do not. You should note that you might run into emissions problems if you install one of the latter types.

Manufacturers included, but are not limited to, APEX'i, HKS, Greddy, and Thermal Research & Development. Numerous custom setups are possible as well.

In the MR2 community, the APEX'i GT-spec and Greddy Power Extreme are popular

Gauges
The stock NA MR2 has the following gauges, going left to right: coolant temperature, 8000rpm tachometer, voltmeter, speedometer, and fuel level.

The stock Turbo MR2 has the same gauges, however, the voltmeter is replaced with a boost gauge, and has a 160mph speedo and 9000rpm tach.

The stock boost gauge can be replaced with the NA's voltmeter with a minimum of modifications (nothing permanent).

Owners may want to add gauges to their car, to better monitor the engine's vital signs. For turbo cars a boost gauge is important. An oil pressure gauge is also a good idea, preferable electronic*type (don't want to run an oil line into the cabin), to hopefully prevent the catastrophic damage caused by a sudden loss in oil pressure.

Other common gauges added are: air-fuel meter, exhaust gas temperature, fuel pressure, and intake temperature.

Single and double pod molded plastic A-pillar mounts are the most common mounts for gauges, and can be purchased for under $30.

Oxygen Sensor

The MR2 Turbo has an 02 sensor located in the exhaust elbow between the turbo exhaust outlet and the primary catalytic converter. The sensor helps the ECU control the air-fuel ratio. The sensor is a four-wire sensor. The 2 black wires are for the sensor heater, the white is
the 02 sensor output, and blue is the ground. Owners who install air-fuel gauge typically tap into the white and blue wires. You may want to confirm this information with other owners before proceeding as my information is not by my experience.

Water Thermostat

Stock for the Turbo is 180 degrees Fahrenheit. TRD offers a 165 degree thermostat which may be of value for those who run modified engines making a lot of heat.

10-31-2005, 09:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
blazinmr2 Resident guitar shredder Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Pella, Ia Posts: 781 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	boost control cont. The disadvantage of this type is that it allows for more boost, it doesn't allow the turbo to spool up any faster. A ball and spring type controller, such as the Hallman valve uses a preset spring to completely cut the feed to the wastegate until the desired boost level is reached. This allows for very quick turbo spool up, as well as higher boost levels. The only disadvantage of this type is that boost spikes may occur because of the rapid spool speed. Generally manual boost controllers are installed between the turbo compressor bung and the wastegate. While it is possible to run vacuum tubing into the cabin to allow the driver to adjust boost while driving, most leave the controller in the engine bay and set and forget it. Manual boost controllers are nice in that they can be easily and cheaply created with parts found at most hardware stores for less than $20. Do not pay more than $60 in parts for either type if you are buying from a dealer or speed shop (you are getting ripped off). The second type of boost controller is an electronic boost controller. Many companies produce these, and most can be found no cheaper than $300, and on up to $1000. Electronic boost controllers come with many different features, but most can be set for an exact boost level. Boost Monitoring Do not attempt to raise the boost on your car without first buying and installing an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock gauge is utterly worthless. It is an electronic type, relying on an electronic sensor/control unit to indict boost-only conditions. It is slow to respond to boost increases, and not a reliable way to measure the boost level. Most owners recommend installing a mechanical type boost gauge. A gauge of this sort can be had for not more than $60. Autometer is a generally accepted gauge manufacturer across the turbo community. Expect to pay more for a Japanese gauge, such as Greddy, HKS, Blitz, and APEX'i. A mechanical boost gauge operates by way of a thin vacuum/boost hose that runs from an intake source in the engine bay to the gauge. Any puncture or pinch point in the line will create a faulty or no reading. Most owners install their extra gauges with an a-pillar mount. A-pillar mounts are typically molded plastic that matches the stock interior well (at least if you have a black interior). A single metal pod can also be used and installed to the top of the dash. The stock boost gauge can be swapped out and replaced with an aftermarket gauge, however, you will have to modify your instrument cluster. Gauges can also be set into the dash, specifically in place of one of the center vents. Mounting the gauge in the glove box is possible, although not really practical. Intake An aftermarket intake is a quick and easy way to add 5-10hp. There are many intake kits available, including HKS, Greddy, APEX'i, K&N, Weapon R, RMS, TRD, etc. The APEX'i Super Intake seems to be highly regarded by many owners in that it filter very well, is reusable, and produces strong horsepower gains. The HKS and Greddy intake also produce strong gains, however, uses a foam element that does not filter as well as cotton filters. The HKS filter is not reusable. K&N filters are popular across the performance car community, and are reusable. Owners considering an aftermarket intake should be warned that there will be an increase in intake noise, as you are removing the stock intake resonator. I add that I know of few people who complain though. If you are increasing boost on your MR2 Turbo it is highly recommended that you install an aftermarket intake before doing so. Exhaust Aftermarket exhaust systems are excellent in increasing engine power and turbo response. Gains as high as 15hp on an otherwise stock engine care often realized. Exhausts typically run $450 on up. Many companies offer exhaust systems for the MR2 Turbo of which can be broken down into those that retain the secondary catalytic converter and those that do not. You should note that you might run into emissions problems if you install one of the latter types. Manufacturers included, but are not limited to, APEX'i, HKS, Greddy, and Thermal Research & Development. Numerous custom setups are possible as well. In the MR2 community, the APEX'i GT-spec and Greddy Power Extreme are popular Gauges The stock NA MR2 has the following gauges, going left to right: coolant temperature, 8000rpm tachometer, voltmeter, speedometer, and fuel level. The stock Turbo MR2 has the same gauges, however, the voltmeter is replaced with a boost gauge, and has a 160mph speedo and 9000rpm tach. The stock boost gauge can be replaced with the NA's voltmeter with a minimum of modifications (nothing permanent). Owners may want to add gauges to their car, to better monitor the engine's vital signs. For turbo cars a boost gauge is important. An oil pressure gauge is also a good idea, preferable electronictype (don't want to run an oil line into the cabin), to hopefully prevent the catastrophic damage caused by a sudden loss in oil pressure. Other common gauges added are: air-fuel meter, exhaust gas temperature, fuel pressure, and intake temperature. Single and double pod molded plastic A-pillar mounts are the most common mounts for gauges, and can be purchased for under $30. Oxygen Sensor* The MR2 Turbo has an 02 sensor located in the exhaust elbow between the turbo exhaust outlet and the primary catalytic converter. The sensor helps the ECU control the air-fuel ratio. The sensor is a four-wire sensor. The 2 black wires are for the sensor heater, the white is the 02 sensor output, and blue is the ground. Owners who install air-fuel gauge typically tap into the white and blue wires. You may want to confirm this information with other owners before proceeding as my information is not by my experience. Water Thermostat Stock for the Turbo is 180 degrees Fahrenheit. TRD offers a 165 degree thermostat which may be of value for those who run modified engines making a lot of heat.