Well, I'm starting to do my writeup for installing a MS v3.0 on the 1MZ using the stock coils + igniter + crank trigger. I just thought I'd show some of the progress I'm making on it. I don't plan on posting my writeup until the car runs, but I'll just use this thread as my "official" blog of sorts.
I realize that Thwam and a couple others have MS's running on their setups, but sometimes the details are a lil thin. I just want to really give back to the community here on this. For people like me where a manual ECU doesn't exsist, this is going to be great. I think the Hydra, AEM, Haltech ... (etc etc) are great boxes, but I have like 2k into my swap. Dropping another 1.5k+ into an ECU isn't an option for me.
When this is all said and done, I'll make a full graphical pinout and any special instruction for hardware mods needed to be made to the MS.
Things I knew going into this-
First of all, I'm using a MegaSquirt-I V3.0 kit purchased from diyautotune. If it's not okay to say their name, let me know mods. I have zero affiliation with them though. The kit was very easy to assemble for someone like me, very well laid out and packaged. IF this is your first soldering project though, I almost urge you to consider buying a pre-assembled unit.
Idle:
I knew that I wanted to use the stock IAC, so I bought the PWM idle control "kit" to control it. That's the least of my worries right now though, so we won't even get into idle control discussion yet
Ignition:
More importantly, I also knew from the start I didn't want to use the typical MegaSquirt VB921 modules as igniters. They work fine and all, but why re-engineer what Toyota gave us: an automotive quality igniter module w/big heatsink. Less wiring hassle this way too.
My 1995 Avalon motor is equiped with 6-COP, and at first I kinda wanted to keep that. Lucky for us, MSnS-Extra supports up to 6 ignition outputs now. This comes at a price though, you obviously lose 3 outputs for other things (like knock, shiftlight and one spare output). If your car is a 3-COP setup, you're in the money. Just use the LED outputs for all 3 coils (more on that later).
MOST importantly, I knew I wanted to retain the stock crank trigger like others have done. EDIS is nice and all, but putting a 36-1 ring on the crank pulley is more drama than I want to deal with. Plus, MS now supports the wheel decoder.. so why not use it?
Current Status-
Currently I have the MS assembled and bench tested. Just tonight I got the 3 basic ignition outputs to work with the stock Toyota igniter module. This will be in the write up, but after trying a couple resistor values.. 330ohm seems to work best for the outputs.
IE: LED16 -> 330ohm -> igniter
Currently I'm trying to decide if I want to switch to 3-COP or stick with 6-COP. I'm leaning toward 3-COP for a couple reasons:
1.) Even with all 6 COP's, it'll be batch fire (so what did I gain?)
2.) I lose 3 outputs that could be used for nitrous control, shift light.. etc
Also if I ever later upgrade to a MS-II + sequential injection/ignition, it'll be really easy to swap back to 6-COP. The only bummer I can think of so far is having to buy 3 of those coils + the spark plug wires, but I should be able to score those in the junkyard easy. Unless one of you guys has a spare set laying around?
What's Left To Do-
My next task is to bandsaw the connector off a dead 94-96 ECU I have and make a conversion harness to my stock engine harness. I DO NOT want to modify my 1MZ's harness in any fashion. Should I have trouble, I want to be able to simply plug the stock ECU in and go.
I also need to add a DB25 connector to my MS's enclosure for the ignition outputs. I'd like to leave the spare pins on the main connector free for nitrous, IAC and stuff like that.
Pics-
So here are some pictures of it in action:
BZZZZZT
My ghetto basement lab
