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The auto MR2 has almost all the attachment points for the conversion already in place. All you have to drill is two holes to mount the clutch pedal bracket and the larger hole for the master cylinder. Fortunately, one of the two panels that make up the firewall already has the master cylinder hole punched out. You just have to drill out the second panel to the same diameter.
You need to do a little rewiring to connect the back up light and bypass the start-in-neutral/park wiring used in the auto transmission. I strongly recommend that you take the parts off a parts car or remove the parts yourself from a pick-your-own-parts place. It's difficult for me to describe how to install the hydraulic lines. You have to do it yourself to figure out how to remove them (and replace them on your car) without unbolting and removing a lot of other components. There are four sections of hydraulic lines. The line that connects to the master cylinder and the long section that travels beneath the car take a lot of manipulation to install.
1. Disconnect and remove battery
2. Remove spare tire, spare tire support tubing (10 mm bolts)
steel hoop and plastic that covers the hydraulic lines in front
trunk
3. Drain antifreeze
4. Drain transmission fluid (optional)
5. Remove driver's seat
6. Remove steering wheel (one screw holds the center section to
the wheel and a 17 mm nut holds the steering wheel to the
steering column)
7. Remove paneling beneath steering wheel and triangular panel
next to door hinge
8. Loosen rear wheel nuts
9. Place car on jack stands (? inches) The higher the better, but
remember that you have to work on the car from the top and
the bottom
10. Remove brake pedal and install pedal from the manual
transmission car (hard to do because of limited access)
11. Drill three holes through fire wall (2 for the mounting bracket,
one large one for the master cylinder)
11. Install clutch pedal and mounting bracket (two nuts and one
bolt 12 mm?) (hard to do because of limited access)
a. Electrical connection? (Cruise control switch/starter
switch - I didn't hook mine up because I don't use the
cruise control)
12. Install master cylinder
13. Connect master cylinder to clutch pedal
14. Install short metal hydraulic line (with rubber seal and
fittings) (hard)
a. Disconnect bracket for air conditioning tubing
b. Disconnect hydraulic brake line (top to front left brake)
c. "90 degree" connector for hydraulic lines (10 mm bolt)
15. Remove front suspension bracket
16. Remove plastic covers beneath car
17. Install the long metal hydraulic line (hard)
a. Unbolt water line bracket
b. Unbolt air conditioner line bracket
c. Remove brake line bracket
d. Remove cross bracket under car
e. Support gas tank with a floor jack
f. Unbolt clips holding the brake line (10 mm)
g. Remove cotter pins holding gas tank
h. Start long hydraulic line at the front near the left
suspension (tape up ends of the lines to protect the
threads
i. Gently bend/bow line downward at the center to create
enough clearance for the line to rear frame member and
rear portion of gas tank
18. Reconnect clips that hold the brake and clutch lines
19. Connect hydraulic line to "90 degree" connector
20. Reattach water and air conditioner brackets
21. Replace gas tank cotter pins, tighten bolts holding brackets
22. Reattach brake brackets
23. Replace two middle plastic shielding (leave last section off)
24. Remove Automatic shift cable bracket
25. Remove center console and rear cubbyholes
26. Remove four plastic plug holding carpet behind seats
27. Remove bracket that supports center console rear trays and
hold down carpet
28. Unbolt shift lever bracket
29. Unplug electrical connector
30. Unbolt plastic shielding on engine side of firewall (10 mm nut,
10 mm bolt, 10 mm screw)
31. Disconnect shifter cable from transmission
32. Unbolt metal cap (two 10 mm bolts) bolted to firewall
33. Pull rubber seal towards engine compartment
34. Push out shifter cable and rubber seal into driver
compartment
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