[LordNikon]

Regaurdless of how far off I was on the originial estimate, if a 1300lb "curb weight" sandrail can run wheelies up a sand dune I think I'll be alright. I started with a bottom line basic "88 NA, so my curb weight should have been right around 2300. The car had already been stripped quite abit when I got it. The previous owener (who does a pretty good amount of raceing) said he dropped around 200lbs off of her and I personaly dropped another 100lbs. Now I have yet to take her down to the cat scales, but If I'm not under 2000lbs I'm damn close.
Now subtract the 348lbs, add approx 170 "hayabusa motor and reverse diff" for a total loss of 178.

Was the 348lbs a fully assembled engine/tranny? I'm going to assume that is with alt, starter, etc already mounted to the engine/tranny. But It doens't include the coolent system. I'm going to fab. a rear mounted coolent system. My rear window is comming out and being replaced with fiberglass to create duct work for the roof scoops. The new rad and eventualy intercooler will be mounted just behind the back window. So all the MR2 factory coolent system will be removed and takeing into account that water weights no less than 7.5lbs per gallon, and most of the factory system is metal, that will be a substantial amount of weight.
So now that I'll be running a smaller more efficient engine that produces more hp and torque at the wheels than the 4age, on a car that weights far less than the stock MR2. I'll be able to down grade the fuel system. The stock tank is 10.8gal "steel tank". The replacement tanks I'm looking at are aluminum and 5-8gal. I think I could easily come close to 1600lbs curb weight.

Talk has already started about fabricating new body panels out of fiberglass or carbon fiber. As well and replaceing the box tube portion of the frame with lighter tube stock.

Oh yeah good news by the way. I got my MR2 up and running on her stock motor again. Turns out I had multiple problems. The alt was bad, as was the batt-starter cable.