Quote:
Originally Posted by braydo
Okay so the fuel pump resistor and relay I ended up running all the proper wires so it will use be the way it was meant to run. Man that was a fun thing to do.. not. I don't think my ecu is making things work properly because nothing changes from when its plugged in and when its not. No check engine light either way.. I checked for spark before i did the fuel pump resistor and relay and was not getting spark.. I also don't that im getting fuel even still. I know that I have followed the way you wired correctly (with the exception of me running the fuel pump another way now) Do you have any idea what could be causing this?
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It's hard for me to troubleshoot without knowing what you did to your fuel pump relay wiring. For your information and the benefit of others reading this - I wouldn't recommend it when using the stock 5sfe pump. The relay (and resistor) just makes sure the fuel pump can rest at idle. The 5s pump is accustomed not to doing this.
If you aren't getting spark; assuming the motor came from a running car in Japan, the most obvious place to start in terms of troubleshooting would be relay box wiring.
There's essentially a one-wire difference in the relay box that I'm painfully aware of. I neglected this step when first attempting to start my swap. The 2 blue lines in the relay box picture I provided represent wires with a pin at each blue dot. I was able to pillage this from a 3s relay box I had lying around. Pulling the pins was not easy, but it was worth the time because this part of the conversion would be a lot messier without them.
If you aren't getting fuel; assuming the motor came from a running car in Japan, the most obvious place to start in terms of troubleshooting would be the FC pin.
If your ECU can't see the car cranking (which it will not if the FC isn't attached properly) then the circuit opening relay will not click on the fuel pump. Make sure there's a wire running from your FC pin (see diagram) to the proper pin on the starter relay (see photo).