[MANDALAY]

Originally Posted by RST

...another dumb-ass question for you:

Which sensor kicks in at 62oC please? My engine bay temp sensor comes in half that and turns on the side fan. Gonna set my Spal fans for less than that also hopefully based on IAT rather than bay temps. I think I've missed something somewhere.
I saw on the manual to check the sensor immerse in water and heat to 70 degrees celcius and with a multimeter should have closed circuit once 62 is reached
...so the rotrex is fine on it's own separate cooling circuit -OK. I forgot it's basically a rotary blower (a turbo) -but without the exhaust impellor but essentially a pulley and gearbox.
The ROTREX uses traction oil to operate and also provide any cooling required. Therefor it is advisable to use a cooler.
Im tacking it one step further by using a fan forced oil cooler and sitting in the air intack. It will also have a temp sensor in line and the MoTec can turn on the fan
Moulds for the casting look sweet! Thanks Just one question -it's larger at one end. Could that not be done by flaring an ali pipe at one end -can get that done on ali pipe relatively easy over here in comparison? Man, if you can get castings made cheap then go for it -something like that through my engineering sources would be mega bucks. If they're doing it in lost wax castings off that just make sure they can repeat it please!!! Sand cast
The reason for the larger end is thats the inlet to the Rotrex which is 3 inches.
Once its finished and CNC'd you will see why. It will house the RESTRICTOR.
The way im doing it , it will be easy to take the restrictor out and rebore if necessary to increase my flow and PSI.
Im going in very safe and starting with only a 30 mm opening. See what PSI i get then adjust accordingly.


...trust me, your MDF plug's alone look a better job than one of the pre-cooler nay whole charge cooler installs I saw by a "pro MR2 tuner" garage in the Uk earlier this year!!!!

Just some more DIY 205 charge cooler install "guff" for you. But some of the MR2 guys comment they have to route their charge cooler pipes under e.g. outside the plastic undershields of the car to the pre-cooler (where it's pretty exposed IMO). I never understood why -but I think they're using cheap nylon cross-braided plastic pipe, or garden hose pipe! Probably useless comment -but I never saw why thin walled alloy tubing wouldn't fit inside the centre tunnel -there's just enough room. Worth investing in a 20mm or so pipe bender to do a good job, rather than rely on soft hoses for me.

Already checked that out. Going inside the plastic sheilds and using solid piping . Pipe bender already bought
Thanks for your suggestions mate