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P0wder · 12-27-2008, 12:37 AM

Older thread but I'll bump with some info.

Disclaimer:I by no means claim to be a professional this is just info from my experience doing my own windows over the years and a couple friends.

Walmart/autozone/ most eBay pre-cut kits the film can look good if you take your time but it will turn purple usually after 2-3 years depending on how much time it spends in the sun. Also the better grade film shops use goes on a little easier and wont purple for several years.

Tools: Heat gun, Tinting squeegee, hard card / bondo cards (something to work the bubbles out and press the film into place) and Snap off razor blade knife (stainless if at all possible) and a smooth cutting surface (I like to use a large piece of glass) A spay bottle (the finer the mist the better it works) and last but not least the tint solution aka Baby Shampoo(15 drops per pint mixed with distilled or filtered water)

Prepare the work area: Where you will be working start by cleaning the floor the best you can, then wet it down like you would before painting doesn't hurt either. Some high end shops go as far as tinting in a down draft booth.

Prepare the car: If I have time I sweep the car, basically eliminate as many sources of dust/lint/hair etc. as possible. Remove as much trim around the windows as possible especially the door panels if you plan to do the doors. Clean both sides of the glass the best you can by spraying the tint solution and start with a razor blade to get all the crap built up on the windows over the years. Once the heavy stuff is gone just use a lint free towel or my personal favorite coffee filters and the solution. Coffee filters are amazing for cleaning windows and they are typically lint free.

How to cut bulk film (the rolls/sheets): first you will save yourself a lot of frustration if you can get a stainless razor blade to cut the film. If you can't find a stainless blade plan to use several blades because as soon as the blade gets wets it starts to dull. I usually rough out the shape of the window with scissors leaving about 3-4 inches beyond the edge of the window.
Tip #1 there is an adhesive side to the film make sure you cut the shape so that side is the one that will ultimately be touching the inside of the glass. Sounds basic but I bet 75% of the people will do this wrong once but few will admit to doing it. Yes I have done this more then once.
Tip #2 put a bright light inside the car and aim it at the window you are about to cut the film for. Mist the outside of that window with the tint solution and stick the roughed out shape (adhesive side out but with the protective film still on) the light should show the outside edge of the window, cut off everything outside that edge. Long smooth cuts will make it look less hacked/DIY.
For the door windows leave an extra couple inches bellow the bottom of the window to make sure the edge is bellow the weather stripping.
Tip #3 when the felt around the window gets wet it tends to drop felt 'hairs' so I start with the windows rolled down about an inch or so and tape over the felt area. with the door skins off you can tint the window with it rolled down a little.

Separating the film backing: Now that you have your film cut for the window wet the cutting table (sheet of glass to work from) and apply the film to the glass (again adhesive side out.) Mist the inside of the window to be tinted with the tinting solution. Now you are ready to carefully remove the backing from the film(film is still on the cutting table). As you remove the backing mist the sticky side of the film with the tint solution. Be careful to avoid getting any lint on it, or allowing the film to touch itself or that sheet is wasted.

Applying the film: Make sure the window is still well lubricated with the tinting solution and carefully bring the film from the cutting table to the window. The film will stick to ANYTHING not lubed up with tint solution so be careful and make sure the window is well misted before you touch it with the film. Once you manage to get the film in the car without the cat jumping on you or a rouge wind folding the sheet on itself you are ready to place the film on the window. the film should slide around on the window so you can get it where it needs to be. Once you are satisfied with film placement mist the now outfacing non-adhesive side of the film. I like to work from one of the upper corners down and across and squeegee the solution out that is between the glass and the film, all while keeping the surface you are rubbing nice and slippery with solution so you don't scratch it with the squeegee. As you squeegee there will be solution all over the place so keep some lint free towels handy to keep it from running inside the body panels or my personal favorite down your arm and into your armpits. Use the hard cards to press any bubble to the closest outside edge and if needed a heat gun will help with the adhesion on the spots that aren't sticking. (if using heat work from the center out)
Tip#4 leave the windows rolled down the inch or so as long as possible and once the film has set you can use a really fine file to trim the edges so the film goes all the way to the edge for that pro-look.
Tip#5 if you need to do the rear window using more then one sheet place the joint line over one of the defroster lines.

There are a lot of other more advanced methods like baby powder heat shrinking, but the method above should get you going in the right direction.
Hope this helps someone do some quality budget tinting. I have not done my deuce yet but after typing this I want to.

12-27-2008, 12:37 AM	#19 (permalink)
P0wder No Skills Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Brick, NJ Posts: 18 Thanks: 4 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Older thread but I'll bump with some info. Disclaimer:I by no means claim to be a professional this is just info from my experience doing my own windows over the years and a couple friends. Walmart/autozone/ most eBay pre-cut kits the film can look good if you take your time but it will turn purple usually after 2-3 years depending on how much time it spends in the sun. Also the better grade film shops use goes on a little easier and wont purple for several years. Tools: Heat gun, Tinting squeegee, hard card / bondo cards (something to work the bubbles out and press the film into place) and Snap off razor blade knife (stainless if at all possible) and a smooth cutting surface (I like to use a large piece of glass) A spay bottle (the finer the mist the better it works) and last but not least the tint solution aka Baby Shampoo(15 drops per pint mixed with distilled or filtered water) Prepare the work area: Where you will be working start by cleaning the floor the best you can, then wet it down like you would before painting doesn't hurt either. Some high end shops go as far as tinting in a down draft booth. Prepare the car: If I have time I sweep the car, basically eliminate as many sources of dust/lint/hair etc. as possible. Remove as much trim around the windows as possible especially the door panels if you plan to do the doors. Clean both sides of the glass the best you can by spraying the tint solution and start with a razor blade to get all the crap built up on the windows over the years. Once the heavy stuff is gone just use a lint free towel or my personal favorite coffee filters and the solution. Coffee filters are amazing for cleaning windows and they are typically lint free. How to cut bulk film (the rolls/sheets): first you will save yourself a lot of frustration if you can get a stainless razor blade to cut the film. If you can't find a stainless blade plan to use several blades because as soon as the blade gets wets it starts to dull. I usually rough out the shape of the window with scissors leaving about 3-4 inches beyond the edge of the window. Tip #1 there is an adhesive side to the film make sure you cut the shape so that side is the one that will ultimately be touching the inside of the glass. Sounds basic but I bet 75% of the people will do this wrong once but few will admit to doing it. Yes I have done this more then once. Tip #2 put a bright light inside the car and aim it at the window you are about to cut the film for. Mist the outside of that window with the tint solution and stick the roughed out shape (adhesive side out but with the protective film still on) the light should show the outside edge of the window, cut off everything outside that edge. Long smooth cuts will make it look less hacked/DIY. For the door windows leave an extra couple inches bellow the bottom of the window to make sure the edge is bellow the weather stripping. Tip #3 when the felt around the window gets wet it tends to drop felt 'hairs' so I start with the windows rolled down about an inch or so and tape over the felt area. with the door skins off you can tint the window with it rolled down a little. Separating the film backing: Now that you have your film cut for the window wet the cutting table (sheet of glass to work from) and apply the film to the glass (again adhesive side out.) Mist the inside of the window to be tinted with the tinting solution. Now you are ready to carefully remove the backing from the film(film is still on the cutting table). As you remove the backing mist the sticky side of the film with the tint solution. Be careful to avoid getting any lint on it, or allowing the film to touch itself or that sheet is wasted. Applying the film: Make sure the window is still well lubricated with the tinting solution and carefully bring the film from the cutting table to the window. The film will stick to ANYTHING not lubed up with tint solution so be careful and make sure the window is well misted before you touch it with the film. Once you manage to get the film in the car without the cat jumping on you or a rouge wind folding the sheet on itself you are ready to place the film on the window. the film should slide around on the window so you can get it where it needs to be. Once you are satisfied with film placement mist the now outfacing non-adhesive side of the film. I like to work from one of the upper corners down and across and squeegee the solution out that is between the glass and the film, all while keeping the surface you are rubbing nice and slippery with solution so you don't scratch it with the squeegee. As you squeegee there will be solution all over the place so keep some lint free towels handy to keep it from running inside the body panels or my personal favorite down your arm and into your armpits. Use the hard cards to press any bubble to the closest outside edge and if needed a heat gun will help with the adhesion on the spots that aren't sticking. (if using heat work from the center out) Tip#4 leave the windows rolled down the inch or so as long as possible and once the film has set you can use a really fine file to trim the edges so the film goes all the way to the edge for that pro-look. Tip#5 if you need to do the rear window using more then one sheet place the joint line over one of the defroster lines. There are a lot of other more advanced methods like baby powder heat shrinking, but the method above should get you going in the right direction. Hope this helps someone do some quality budget tinting. I have not done my deuce yet but after typing this I want to.