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If you short terminals FP to B+ in your terminal test block, (same terminal test block one uses to set jumpers for ignition timing) and switch the ignition ON, that should turn on the fuel pump. So disconnect the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail, stick the end of the hose in a bucket, jumper FP to B+ and turn on the ignition and the fuel pump will drain the tank for you.
Since the car has set for a year, I'd pour a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, or at the least your favorite motor oil in each spark plug hole before starting the engine. This oil will coat the rings and provide lubrication to the top end during a dry start. (The cranking time from when everything starts to move to when pressurized oil gets to critical parts. ) Yes it will smoke a bit, but at least you know it's lubricating and not galling.
If I wanted to do it right I'd probably also pull the valve covers and spray a light oil to soak into the valve bucket area and pour motor oil over the tops of the cams to drown the buckets and shims, and spray oil as best I could on the valve stems and seals.
Not much you can do for the bottom of the motor without either adding in an additional pump as the oil pump drives off the front of the crankshaft. (pressurize system before starting.) My old Dodge I can remove the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill and pressurize the system, but the oil pump on a 4AGE is driven off of the crank so that option is removed.
All that said, while one year old gas won't provide great power it should run. Put a little oil in the cylinders so the rings aren't running dry and crank it. Once you get it started, run that tank to fumes and fill with good gas.
PO changed Distributor cap and rotor.........could be bad Ju Ju there. Make sure that when #1 piston is at TDC and valves are closed is when the distributor rotor points at #1 on distributor cap.
Good luck, we need more MKI's ripping around the mountains of Colorado.
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