THE CAR IS HOME!!!
Sitting in my garage as we speak.
Let the fun begin.
First step is to charge up the battery and see if it will crank. (after putting in some oil to lube cylinder walls.
(Thanks Tjmr2)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 328FTW
There is a drain plug on the fuel tank but you have to remove the plastic covers over it first.
and there is a manual for the aw11. Haynes make one and there is the infamous BGB (Big Green Book because it is big and green). You can download the bgb online here http://www.shinny.co.uk/88aw11.pdf It has a troubleshooting guide and simple pictures for some things so it is a good start |
Cool, thanks for the BGB. Or as I know them, TSRM(Toyota Service and Repair Manual).
Drain plug on the fuel tank sounds easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjmr2
If you short terminals FP to B+ in your terminal test block, (same terminal test block one uses to set jumpers for ignition timing) and switch the ignition ON, that should turn on the fuel pump. So disconnect the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail, stick the end of the hose in a bucket, jumper FP to B+ and turn on the ignition and the fuel pump will drain the tank for you.
Since the car has set for a year, I'd pour a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil, or at the least your favorite motor oil in each spark plug hole before starting the engine. This oil will coat the rings and provide lubrication to the top end during a dry start. (The cranking time from when everything starts to move to when pressurized oil gets to critical parts. ) Yes it will smoke a bit, but at least you know it's lubricating and not galling.
If I wanted to do it right I'd probably also pull the valve covers and spray a light oil to soak into the valve bucket area and pour motor oil over the tops of the cams to drown the buckets and shims, and spray oil as best I could on the valve stems and seals.
Not much you can do for the bottom of the motor without either adding in an additional pump as the oil pump drives off the front of the crankshaft. (pressurize system before starting.) My old Dodge I can remove the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill and pressurize the system, but the oil pump on a 4AGE is driven off of the crank so that option is removed.
All that said, while one year old gas won't provide great power it should run. Put a little oil in the cylinders so the rings aren't running dry and crank it. Once you get it started, run that tank to fumes and fill with good gas.
PO changed Distributor cap and rotor.........could be bad Ju Ju there. Make sure that when #1 piston is at TDC and valves are closed is when the distributor rotor points at #1 on distributor cap.
Good luck, we need more MKI's ripping around the mountains of Colorado.
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AWESOME INFO!
Thanks a ton. I hadn't considered the tablespoon of oil in each cylinder before cranking, but that makes perfect sense.
As for the fuel, the drain plug sounds much easier. If I pull a banjo fitting, that's one more part I need to replace. Any benefit to sucking it out through the pump vs. draining it?
Thanks a bunch guys.
**PICS added up top!