Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackstand Queen
Your oil pressure would be envied by many on this forum.
Its a bang for the buck thing . . . header: as much as several hundred. Stand alone EMS . . . couple of grand and many migraines later you get as much HP gain as the header would give.
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My oil P usually stays right at the halfway mark when idling, sometimes a little below depending on temperature.
Headers and cut that nasty intake off, should liven it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2sFTW
I'm really glad it's got the model air filter assembly where it's in the trunk. I see a lot of models with cones in the engine bay, but doesn't rain get in the breathing holes in the engine lid? Looked like it'd get right on the cone if I replaced the stock assembly, (  ) so I decided to get a K&N one that would fit the stock assembly.
I should be able to do the transmission fluid myself, and the O2 sensor too, right? |
Tranny fluid yes, and O2 sensor is easy as well, hardest thing is getting that damned connector apart (i always struggle with it, then my brother laughs at me)
Rain falling on the air filter isn't that big of a deal, if you are worried about it you can build a little rain sheild, but really i don't think it's necessary unless you're looking at snowy/icey temperatures, in which case i just use a piece of cardboard wedged in the lid vent to cover it, and that works well as a temporary fix.
Taking off all that ducting and doing a cone filter would significantly help the flow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2sFTW
When you really let loose on the throttle, and hit the 4350ish+ powerband, and (I presume) the T-Vis engages, it sounds a little bit like the turbo "whoosh" on a friend of mine's turbodiesle crew cab truck. It performs great, but just want to confirm the sound isn't anything peculiar?
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I get that sometimes, because my cone filter is right over my shoulder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr2sFTW
I'm gonna go through all the electrical wiring, [which isn't very clean or nice looking either ] unplug what I can, and clean all the electrical contacts, plug them all back in. Do you guys think it's safe to test the T-Vis by revving to the 4300ish RPM area and checking that it actuates and opens the valves? [In neutral?] Again ... just trying to baby this as much as I can now that it's in my hands.  |
It's perfectly safe to test it, not sure how you would though. You could unplug the t-vis vacuum line and hook up a pressure tester to the line and see if there's a pressure change.
The t-vis has a spring that keeps it open, and the vacuum pressure shuts it for lower revs, so if anything fails it should stay open (like mine)
And don't bother with any t-vis controller, it won't really do anything, since the t-vis is about as tuned as it can be straight from the factory.
As for the bouncing idle, it could be the IAC valve (idle air control) it's right by the throttle valve, and it has idle set screw on it. Sometimes they get gunked up and you just need to go in there and clean it, you could use brake cleaner, and then rinse it well, or sometimes you can find cleaner made specifically for throttle bodies.