Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Dorman
Not the best looking engine...but sick! That power curve is sweet. Also the wheel HP is almost as high as the factory rated crank numbers. I'm guessing the intake and custom exhaust helps with all that? Very nice...I followed your thread on the other board and was very impressed. I might be picking that kit up from you in the future if I can source a 2GR  |
I agree it isn't the best looking engine bay, but that's actually getting fixed. the car is getting repainted and the valve covers are getting body color painted. the rest of the engine is getting cleaned and so is the transmission. it'll look showroom new when it gets back on the road here in less than a month. my initial focus was to get the swap done without getting bogged down in details that did not affect the running of the car.
that dyno chart is actually with a 5% down rating because the weather was a bit cold that day (they actually measured 291HP to the ground). but i suspect that the new ECUs don't loose power quite like the old ones when the temperature changes. after i get the equal length headers made with the equal length y pipe (which i'll be selling soon also), i suspect I'll be able to hit 300-310HP to the ground and i'll do it on a 70-80* day so the dyno doesn't have a correction factor. also, having a clutch that dosen't start slipping at 6200 will allow me to measure the last 300RPM's of the chart. there's a few more HP up there.
also, as it stands, the motor runs quite close to stoichiometic even at full throttle, I'm going to experiment with fattening up the mixture at the top to see if i can gain a bit more HP there also.
I'll also get 1/4 mile times this summer. I think it can break into the 11's without any kind of forced induction or aftermarket ECU.