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Old 04-17-2009, 08:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
q-authority
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gold85mr2 View Post
well here is an update ofr those who havent read the whole thread. i have gotten the shimmy to stop except for when braking by balancing the tires and removing a bad one. so at this pont i am in need of some descent rotors that are less likely to warp since i just replaced these last year.
Congratulations on fixing the high speed shake. That is quite common on the AW11, especially since the front end is so light. Good tires and a good 4 wheel balance job are crucial to these cars. The idiot who told you that you didn't need to balance a tire because it was going on the rear is exactly that, an idiot.

Regarding the brake rotor warping: all rotors will warp eventually, unless maybe you never brake above 20 mph or so. Unfortunately, oem rotors are the best, but probably not the cheapest. I've tried several types over the years, and none have worked as well as the oem units. Additionally, the oem rotors are also lighter than after market units as well (usually about 1-1.5 lbs lighter ea.), and that includes cross drilled and slotted rotors, which means those were even heavier before they were drilled or slotted. The manufacturers mostly all claim to use stock rotors for their production, but that is a load of cr*p. So if you can afford oem rotors buy them as they will also lower your unsprung weight on the wheel. With stock type brake pads you should probably get at least 40-60k out of after market rotors before any slight warpage, and probably another 20-40k out of oem rotors. High performance brake pads will usually cause premature warpage and how soon depends upon your braking and speed habits.
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