[FelipeT]

Originally Posted by mr220v

I can resolve your harness issues, and whatever else the importer left out. Send me a PM if you're intrested in my harness service. The service includes any plug you might be might be missing.

Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I've heard nothing but good about your work on here. However, I want to do the wiring myself. I'm one of those oddball few that enjoys doing the wiring. Truth be told, I'm starting to think that wiring is going to be the part of this swap that I enjoy most.

Yes, I know how much of an oddball that makes me.

Of course, that doesn't mean that I won't be on here asking questions about it!

Originally Posted by mr220v

You can order the cap, wires, seals, and a lot of other parts for the 20v from aaron at lithia toyota (vendor on this board). He also makes a custom Bpipe for the 20v header.

Thanks. So I've heard (read...) I'll probably end up going this route for parts soon. I think that currently, the plan is to compile a list of everything I need, then, once I get it ordered, start working on the harness while I wait for the stuff.

Originally Posted by mr220v

If you ended up with a reasonably clean motor, there shouldn't be a lot to do in the way of replacing parts.

A lot of the stuff I'm looking at replacing doesn't "need" to be replaced, but I'm kind of picky. For me, if I have a motor out, it is almost always standard practice to replace vacuum hoses, cam seals, crank seals, and the oil pan gasket. It is all reasonably cheap, and it will never be easier than it is now.

Originally Posted by mr220v

If you want to post pics, I can probably tell you what can and can't be reused from the 16v motor. The 16v crank pulley can, for example, be used on the 20v. You can use the 16v alternator, and if you want A/c, you're best off using the 16v a/c compressor. A dented airbox is ugly, but not a big deal. Lots of guys with blacktops ditch the box anyway.

I'm planning on re-using my 16V crank pulley. The one on my 20V doesn't look to be out of round under cursory inspection, but it does look like it has made contact in a few places, and I'm pretty sure that if it were measured for runout, it would be obvious.

As far as the AC goes, does anyone keep it? I keep going back and forth on whether or not I want to keep it. If the 16V ran, I could find it if my AC even works. I would really hate to go through the trouble of keeping it, only to find out it doesn't work. I'm in AL, so it would be nice to have, but at the same time, it doesn't bother me that my 76 RA29 Celica doesn't have it, and it's brown!

Anyway, I think that I will proceed as if I'm going to have AC, and hope that the damn thing works!

Dented? I guess that I was a little vague. If my plenum was only dented, then I wouldn't have mentioned it. The lower lip is crushed so it won't come close to closing, making it all but useless. If I can't find a replacement, I guess that I'll try to practice some hammer and dolly techniques, but I think that this is well beyond my metal-bending abilities.

I just hope that I can find one of those guys you've mentioned that have ditched their airbox!

Originally Posted by mr220v

The main judge of a good motor is the color of what's inside the motor. If it's silver or golden, it's good. If it's black with tar, it's less than desirable.

You know, that was the first thing I checked when I got it! For now, I'd give my motor a B-. It's dark, but, at least from what I can see through the oil cap, it doesn't look like it has sludgy tar deposits. We'll find out when I take off the valve cover, as soon as I can get a replacement gasket!

Also, while on the subject, I've read that the 7AFE oil pan gasket is the same. Can anyone verify this? Mine doesn't look to be leaking but... You know!

Originally Posted by te51levin

Thanks for the mention, mr220v. There is a surprising amount of 20V stuff available in the US, and we can get more from Toyota than I thought we could.

I've got the stuff I need to build a few more 20V downpipes and hope to have a couple done this weekend for standing orders. I'll be building more as I find time so there's no need to modify the 20V header. The pipes I build make the exhaust a bolt-in affair.

I expect to be e-mailing you a list in the coming days. I just want to make sure that I don't miss anything!

As far as the downpipe goes, the one you make is absolutely beautiful, but I'm still undecided for two reasons: First, for me the point of doing a project like this is to do as much as I can myself, and while I know that I can't produce anything like the quality you have, I also know that I never will if I don't practice my welding! Second, I don't have a factory exhaust, I have a piece of modern art, which can at best be described as a performance piece by members of the rust community to do an impression of a factory exhaust. Or, in other words, I'm planning on fabbing up my own custom (read: short) exhaust. Is there any way that you can make up a downpipe which ends right after the flexpipe? Alternately, can I get just the flange? I know that this isn't your day job, so what kind of a turn-around time are you working with right now?