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yeah as far as doigng the swap i didnt yet it was hard enough to find a cluth type pully with 5 ribs thats smaller than the 10 psi one. so i havent done so thats why i posted. theres a link on club4ag to a site that does the math on the dia of the pulley and psi output.
the reason for doing the s/c pulley is to help prevent cavitation on h2o pump and strain on both h20 pump and alt pulley brgs as they will be spinning MUCH faster than intended to. thats what i want to avoid. catastrophic failure.
my friend has a 4age+Z hachi and his s/c is hard wired so per my suggestion he added a toggle sw so he runs n/a most times to save gas and s/c wear.
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