1. Same 'ol crap with the light switch buddy, the round plastic wheel is the mechanism that turns the dash lights on and off and dims 'em too. If the wheel is cracked (usual case) just "Goop" it back onto the steel shaft it belongs on.(24 hrs cure time!)
2. If your clock is functioning and the light works on it your "C" ground is probably working as they share the same ground position and wire leads.
(See Step #4 test) this ground is located above the fuse box, on the sidewall, at your left foot area.
3. We're gonna ass-u-me that you have a functioning fuse at the 7.5Amp Turn-Gage OK? that's the power source.
4. From that power source check that your getting power thru/to the green wire at the connector at the rear of the light switch assembly.
5. To confirm the Rheostat controlling the dash lights is actually working take a voltage reading from wire position #5 to Wire position #9 (see "H" connector wire location diagram (picture attached) from Page 71 of the electrical service book)
while you have the voltage meter on this location spin the plastic wheel and confirm if the rheostat is diming the dash lights. (Voltage will change as the wheel spins)
Hope this works for you to isolate whether the rheostat or other systems are your problem.
mr2tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by superxenrique
Thanks for the help everyone, but with my functioning used light switch that I was able to get a hold of for $20, the dash still does not illuminate. What should my next plan of attack? I don't want to have to do this, but I may just take apart the entire dash and check all of the wires.
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