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Old 08-01-2009, 04:45 AM   #15 (permalink)
te51levin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewandnout View Post
The black wire sure enough was going to the engine and the red was going to the body of the car.
If your car still has its original positive and negative cables, positive will be black with a blue tracer (stripe), and will disappear into plastic split loom. Negative will be black with a yellow tracer, and will go to a bracket on the left strut tower, then continue to the transmission case.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kewandnout View Post
So I went out to Pep Boys and bought completely new fuses and replaced all but one which I couldn't pull out of the fuse box in the engine bay.
There's a big square yellow one with a clear lid in the engine bay fuse block. It is held in with a bolt. If that fuse has blown, the bolt can be accessed (barely) after removing the EFI main relay, which looks like a round silver metal canister.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kewandnout View Post
Should I buy a new alternator?
No no, definitely not. Don't buy anything yet. Get a shop manual and a buddy who owns a multimeter and knows how to use it. This will allow you to trace circuits and make sure you have power and continuity where you need it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by como View Post
Theres something called a fusable link you may want to look into as well. (Pretty sure you already did, seeing as how you hit up that old thread)
Exactly right. Again assuming your wiring is original, this will be a black wire inside a gray plastic sleeve, and it runs alongside the positive battery cable and attaches to the positive battery terminal with a large ring terminal. This fusible link handles ALL of the electricity between the battery and the car (except for the starter motor), and if it is blown, NOTHING will have power. It will probably feel pretty brittle and crispy if it has blown. This is where that 16ga fusible link wire you asked about in the other thread comes in . You can use that to replace a burned fusible link. Be sure to do a permanent, professional repair - this is no place for twisted-together wires and electrical tape. Crimp and/or solder the repair and use heat shrink tubing.

Good luck!
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