|
I think I'm going to have to agree with you.
I tested the door function again to make sure it wasn't working by way of some voodo magic, and it wasn't. I manually connected the leads for the door function again on the dome light and no luck their either. So I decided to start pulling interior trim panels to get to the wiring and door switches to check them. I found no problems with any of the switches and all of the wires had the neccessary current, so I start scratching my head on this one.
What to do when you think you've checked everything? Check everything again.
Once everything is back together again I manually connect the leads again and viola: light. So it must be the switch (that's funny, this test didn't turn out this way last time and I really haven't changed anything..... Perhaps I striped some corrosion from the plugs when I connected and disconnected them.)
Well, as stated above I already cleaned all of the contacts in the switch and can't identify any breaks in the switch. When I reinstall it and poke at it a bit with a pair if needle nose and find that the far right contact is comprimised in some nonvisible way.
Not wanting to buy a new dome light assembly - I just forked out $7 for the lense cover (the one from my parts car disintegrated when I tried to remove it) - I just took the thing inside and soldered the switch together. It's now permenantly in door mode, which is fine with me.
I wasn't sure if flipping the switch into "on" mode would damage anything due to both circuits being completed when the door is open. Everything seems to be fine though.
I adjusted the ignition timing and tightened up some noisey belts. The car is much smoother now. I also did a Sea Foam scrub on the internals and cleaned all of the carbon build up out of the throttle body.
|