Toyota MR2 Message Board - View Single Post

mr220v · 07-12-2006, 02:09 PM

Saw the thread on the 20v swap was lacking info.

Most aspects of the 20v swap are very easy. The motor is a straight bolt-in, no motormount modding or swapping required.

The original mr2 tranny can be used, and will also bolt straight on. The only issue is on the early transmissions that only have the exhaust side mounting option. If you try to use the 20v header unmodified with the exhaust side starter, the fit will be VERY tight. They will clear each other, but will be within a centimeter. You may also have to remove the header to remove the starter. Having the starter exposed to this heat may also shorten its life expectancy.

The 16v exhaust system can be used with a small modification to the manifold. All 3 of the center bolts line up. The timing belt side flange is short, but can still be tightened up by allowing the bolt to rest on the outer lip of the flange. The tranny side flange is at an incorrect angle. It must be trimmed back to clear the water neck. Here are some pics of this done on an ae86:

http://69.15.41.214/mr2/000.jpg
http://69.15.41.214/mr2/001.jpg
http://69.15.41.214/mr2/002.jpg
http://69.15.41.214/mr2/003.jpg
http://69.15.41.214/mr2/004.jpg

Use of the 20v header will require a custom Bpipe

Aside from this, how you want to run your hoses and throttle cable are the only other issues you have to resolve.

I prefer to run from the oil cooler (not used with the 20v oiling system) to the water neck on the back of the head (the one next to the exhaust manifold) incorporating the filler neck right above the exhaust manifold. The driver's side pipe will run to the thermostat housing, and the heater hoses can simply be hooked up. DO NOT TRY AND USE THE 16V TSTAT HOUSING, YOU'LL ONLY GET CONFUSED.

The throttle cable can be rerouted to the passenger side of the car, though this is still not quite long enough. On my personal setup, i've run the cable back through the front firewall, under the dash, under the center console, behind the rear carpeting, and through the trunk release cable hole in the firewall. The 16v cable is more than long enough for this path.

WIRING. This is the difficult part of the conversion. Its the reason why so many of these swaps have failed to run correctly, or run at all. In the past, getting a complete 20v harness was the best way to ensure success, though this option still can take months to get running. Most people, with average skills, are not going to be able to wire a cut harness. I've seen people with above average wiring skills, on numerous ocassions, not be able to make this work at all.

This is where I come in. If you supply me an uncut 16v harness and a cut 20v harness (I don't care too much about the condition of the 20v harness), I can make you a Plug and Play 20v harness for your 1985-1989 aw11. PNP means it will plug right into your 16v body harness and onto your 20v motor. No soldering, cutting, or running wire (well there is one little issue on 85-86 cars involving the injector resistor that even a 10 year old could handle. Send me your resistor if you don't want to handle this)

The cost is $350, and I don't need to touch your car. I've done more than 10 of these with great success, some internationally. Every harness is test run on my personal car before it is ever shipped, so what you get is known to be functional and code free.

Alltogether the quickest way to do a 20v swap. PM me if intrested.

07-12-2006, 02:09 PM	#2 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,525 Thanks: 13 Thanked 175 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	Updated 20v swap info Saw the thread on the 20v swap was lacking info. Most aspects of the 20v swap are very easy. The motor is a straight bolt-in, no motormount modding or swapping required. The original mr2 tranny can be used, and will also bolt straight on. The only issue is on the early transmissions that only have the exhaust side mounting option. If you try to use the 20v header unmodified with the exhaust side starter, the fit will be VERY tight. They will clear each other, but will be within a centimeter. You may also have to remove the header to remove the starter. Having the starter exposed to this heat may also shorten its life expectancy. The 16v exhaust system can be used with a small modification to the manifold. All 3 of the center bolts line up. The timing belt side flange is short, but can still be tightened up by allowing the bolt to rest on the outer lip of the flange. The tranny side flange is at an incorrect angle. It must be trimmed back to clear the water neck. Here are some pics of this done on an ae86: http://69.15.41.214/mr2/000.jpg http://69.15.41.214/mr2/001.jpg http://69.15.41.214/mr2/002.jpg http://69.15.41.214/mr2/003.jpg http://69.15.41.214/mr2/004.jpg Use of the 20v header will require a custom Bpipe Aside from this, how you want to run your hoses and throttle cable are the only other issues you have to resolve. I prefer to run from the oil cooler (not used with the 20v oiling system) to the water neck on the back of the head (the one next to the exhaust manifold) incorporating the filler neck right above the exhaust manifold. The driver's side pipe will run to the thermostat housing, and the heater hoses can simply be hooked up. DO NOT TRY AND USE THE 16V TSTAT HOUSING, YOU'LL ONLY GET CONFUSED. The throttle cable can be rerouted to the passenger side of the car, though this is still not quite long enough. On my personal setup, i've run the cable back through the front firewall, under the dash, under the center console, behind the rear carpeting, and through the trunk release cable hole in the firewall. The 16v cable is more than long enough for this path. WIRING. This is the difficult part of the conversion. Its the reason why so many of these swaps have failed to run correctly, or run at all. In the past, getting a complete 20v harness was the best way to ensure success, though this option still can take months to get running. Most people, with average skills, are not going to be able to wire a cut harness. I've seen people with above average wiring skills, on numerous ocassions, not be able to make this work at all. This is where I come in. If you supply me an uncut 16v harness and a cut 20v harness (I don't care too much about the condition of the 20v harness), I can make you a Plug and Play 20v harness for your 1985-1989 aw11. PNP means it will plug right into your 16v body harness and onto your 20v motor. No soldering, cutting, or running wire (well there is one little issue on 85-86 cars involving the injector resistor that even a 10 year old could handle. Send me your resistor if you don't want to handle this) The cost is $350, and I don't need to touch your car. I've done more than 10 of these with great success, some internationally. Every harness is test run on my personal car before it is ever shipped, so what you get is known to be functional and code free. Alltogether the quickest way to do a 20v swap. PM me if intrested.