Have dyno results for the CT27/440 ROM Tune...

mopwer · 02-19-2008, 06:29 PM

Need to know who to send them to get my A/F adjusted on a new chip? Have other questions for them as well.

Thanks.

Greg

ATSAaron · 02-21-2008, 05:43 PM

Send them to parts@atsracing.net

Aaron

mopwer · 02-21-2008, 07:02 PM

Ok, thanks.

Greg

butter nuts · 02-22-2008, 08:48 PM

POST IT POST IT

mopwer · 02-23-2008, 09:23 AM

This was the first pull at stock boost (MBC open):

mopwer · 02-23-2008, 09:30 AM

After that we tried resetting the ECU thinking we could get a better read for where the A/F ratio was before it had a chance to adjust. I was hoping we could lean out the entire range with fuel pressure adjustment. We couldn't reduce the FP enough to make a difference without affecting the top end where it leans out. The mid range torque really dropped after the reset (probably timing reset).

So after driving it on the dyno some to get the ecu to learn the engine some, here is the last pull with the boost set at about 17. So almost 274hp on 91 pump gas and octane booster. Should have some more when we lean it out a little.

pothiawala786 · 02-23-2008, 01:46 PM

Whats with the torque curve on both stock boost and 17 psi? It seems worse at 17psi. It tends to dip alot around 4300 RPM. The AFR matches that as well, and it tends to become very rich around that point. Is that how the AFR curve tends to look with the ROM tune?

mopwer · 02-23-2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pothiawala786

Whats with the torque curve on both stock boost and 17 psi? It seems worse at 17psi. It tends to dip alot around 4300 RPM. The AFR matches that as well, and it tends to become very rich around that point. Is that how the AFR curve tends to look with the ROM tune?

That's what I'm talking about after the ecu reset. Given enough time for the ecu to relearn the engine, that dip will flatten out more like it was in the first pull. The boost had nothing to do with the torque dip. Must be timing related combined with the rich A/F. Both pulls are with the ROM tune. Never got the stock ecu on the dyno.

Greg

mr2gq · 02-23-2008, 08:25 PM

THats why you never buy a mail order tune. No 2 engines are going to run/tune the same even though they might have the exact same modes. I've seen cars loose 15 hp at the wheels from buying a mail ordered tune that was supposed to be for there specifice applications. Always go to a tuner to have it dynotuned mail order is junk!

mopwer · 02-23-2008, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2gq

THats why you never buy a mail order tune. No 2 engines are going to run/tune the same even though they might have the exact same modes. I've seen cars loose 15 hp at the wheels from buying a mail ordered tune that was supposed to be for there specifice applications. Always go to a tuner to have it dynotuned mail order is junk!

I'm getting it adjusted by ATS. Its not junk. They send you their best guess based on what you tell them you have. Then they can make adjustments based on dyno results, or you can take it directly to them for the adjustments. Too far of a drive for me.

Greg

mr2gq · 02-23-2008, 09:17 PM

Exactly there best " guess ". Which is why I wouldnt buy mail order. See now ur having to put it on hte dyno. Send the results back to them, and send ur rom. Wait for them to adjust it. Go back and put it on the dyno and see if its right. Then if its not do it all over again. Waste of time. It cost about the same money to take it to a tuner and have it dynotune for your specifice application. Then you KNOW its right AND get the most power you can out of it. You could get your rom back and the airfuel be right and the car run fine, but your not going to get as much power out of it as if you would if you took it and had it dynotuned.

mopwer · 02-23-2008, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2gq

Exactly there best " guess ". Which is why I wouldnt buy mail order. See now ur having to put it on hte dyno. Send the results back to them, and send ur rom. Wait for them to adjust it. Go back and put it on the dyno and see if its right. Then if its not do it all over again. Waste of time. It cost about the same money to take it to a tuner and have it dynotune for your specifice application. Then you KNOW its right AND get the most power you can out of it. You could get your rom back and the airfuel be right and the car run fine, but your not going to get as much power out of it as if you would if you took it and had it dynotuned.

Don't have a whole lot of options. If I was closer to Dallas I would have taken it to them and had it done for free. Doesn't make sense to spend $600 more to drive down, get it tuned. I'm not trying to win some HP contest, I just want it to be closer to optimal in the A/F ratio.

Greg

butter nuts · 02-23-2008, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2gq

Exactly there best " guess ". Which is why I wouldnt buy mail order. See now ur having to put it on hte dyno. Send the results back to them, and send ur rom. Wait for them to adjust it. Go back and put it on the dyno and see if its right. Then if its not do it all over again. Waste of time. It cost about the same money to take it to a tuner and have it dynotune for your specifice application. Then you KNOW its right AND get the most power you can out of it. You could get your rom back and the airfuel be right and the car run fine, but your not going to get as much power out of it as if you would if you took it and had it dynotuned.

When you open up a dyno shop in every town that can tune a chipped Toyota ECU, let us know.

pothiawala786 · 02-25-2008, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2gq

THats why you never buy a mail order tune. No 2 engines are going to run/tune the same even though they might have the exact same modes. I've seen cars loose 15 hp at the wheels from buying a mail ordered tune that was supposed to be for there specifice applications. Always go to a tuner to have it dynotuned mail order is junk!

I have to agree with him, and that no 2 engine will be exactly the same. BUT, with there being almost no options, other than spending alot more money than what he's spending, this has to be the best choice. I would still like to see the final results after the second ROM, just to see how the curve(s) looks when its all said and done.

Does ATS charge you for the second ROM tune, after the dyno runs?

How much does the ROM tune cost, with the core being returned? I know that it costs $650 (when buying the package) with the thermostat and pressure regulator, but I'm just trying to see the final costs involved.

mopwer · 02-25-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kblake

The average gain from a ROM tune by G-Force Engineering (which was far more generic than an ATS tune) was 25RWHP. Do you know how many shops in the U.S. have the hardware and knowledge to tune the stock MR2 ECU? 2 or 3. The only way to "always go to a tuner to have it dynotuned" is to install an expensive standalone engine management system.

There are literally hundreds of happy ATS ROM tune customers out driving their MR2s, most of whom didn't even require a retune beyond the initial tune, based on their modifications. The difference is, when something works exactly as advertised, most people don't go on a message board and post about it. You only hear about the ones that have problems, or need additional tuning.

Ken

On that note, I actually used to have a Hydra with my original CT26 that was locally "tuned" and only could get 193hp out of it on pump gas (Mustang Dyno). So, I'm extremely happy with the cost and output of the ATS CT-27 and ROM. For the cost of the Hydra, I got a new turbo and a ROM tune and it put me in the HP range I was wanting. I'm just trying to fine tune the A/F as stated before.

Greg

Bern · 02-25-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopwer

On that note, I actually used to have a Hydra with my original CT26 that was locally "tuned" and only could get 193hp out of it on pump gas (Mustang Dyno). So, I'm extremely happy with the cost and output of the ATS CT-27 and ROM. For the cost of the Hydra, I got a new turbo and a ROM tune and it put me in the HP range I was wanting. I'm just trying to fine tune the A/F as stated before.

Greg

Just wanted some clarification of the #'s, are you saying you had a Hydra Nemesis + ct26 (193rwhp) and you replaced these with a ct27+rom tune and got 274rwhp? I know that the ct27 will make a difference, but isn't that a large gain for just a rom tune (noob here)?

I'm also on a ct26 and am researching/deciding which route to take (ct27, ct20b, TD06, SB46...)

mopwer · 02-25-2008, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bern

Just wanted some clarification of the #'s, are you saying you had a Hydra Nemesis + ct26 (193rwhp) and you replaced these with a ct27+rom tune and got 274rwhp? I know that the ct27 will make a difference, but isn't that a large gain for just a rom tune (noob here)?

I'm also on a ct26 and am researching/deciding which route to take (ct27, ct20b, TD06, SB46...)

Right. And that was with the boost set to 17psi on both cases. Biggest problem was that the CT-26 wouldn't hold the boost. It started dropping at about 4300 and ended up at about 10psi. The CT-27 will hold the boost, no problem.

Which turbo you go with will depend on what you are shooting for.
Greg

Bern · 02-25-2008, 12:55 PM

double post, sorry

mr2gq · 02-25-2008, 07:21 PM

2 or 3 shops in the US that can tune a mr2 ecu huh LOL? I seriously think ur wrong on that one. Now granted I might have forgot that tuners aren't where everyone lives. Which is maybe mopowers problem, but here in GA they're are plentyful. And just for saying theres only 2 in the US im going to call around and find some shops here just in GA that can tune them, and post it just to let people know thats some BS. And if you got almost 100 more hp just from going to a rom from a stand alone they was seriously something wrong with ur tuner

mr2gq · 02-25-2008, 09:26 PM

Yeah well obviously there was something wrong with his turbo too cause I got a ct26 and it doesnt drop to 10psi when it gets to 4K rpms. Im not interested in being just right. Maybe its the otehr way around you want to be right. I didnt say it was easy for just ANY tuner to tune it. It takes someone who knows what they are doing cause tuning a car that isnt OBD compliant is harder. Doesnt mean theres only 2 places in the US that can do it. Have you called every tuner in the US and asked them?

02-19-2008, 06:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
mopwer 933SGTE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 1,098 Thanks: 24 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (12/100% )	Have dyno results for the CT27/440 ROM Tune... Need to know who to send them to get my A/F adjusted on a new chip? Have other questions for them as well. Thanks. Greg

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02-21-2008, 05:43 PM	#2 (permalink)
ATSAaron No Skills Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 186 Thanks: 8 Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Send them to parts@atsracing.net Aaron

02-21-2008, 07:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
mopwer 933SGTE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 1,098 Thanks: 24 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (12/100% )	Ok, thanks. Greg

02-22-2008, 08:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
butter nuts The Dissident Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 460 Thanks: 10 Thanked 18 Times in 14 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	POST IT POST IT

02-23-2008, 01:46 PM	#7 (permalink)
pothiawala786 Some skills Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 451 Thanks: 6 Thanked 27 Times in 27 Posts iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Whats with the torque curve on both stock boost and 17 psi? It seems worse at 17psi. It tends to dip alot around 4300 RPM. The AFR matches that as well, and it tends to become very rich around that point. Is that how the AFR curve tends to look with the ROM tune?

02-23-2008, 08:25 PM	#9 (permalink)
mr2gq Banned Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 447 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	THats why you never buy a mail order tune. No 2 engines are going to run/tune the same even though they might have the exact same modes. I've seen cars loose 15 hp at the wheels from buying a mail ordered tune that was supposed to be for there specifice applications. Always go to a tuner to have it dynotuned mail order is junk!

02-23-2008, 09:17 PM	#11 (permalink)
mr2gq Banned Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 447 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Exactly there best " guess ". Which is why I wouldnt buy mail order. See now ur having to put it on hte dyno. Send the results back to them, and send ur rom. Wait for them to adjust it. Go back and put it on the dyno and see if its right. Then if its not do it all over again. Waste of time. It cost about the same money to take it to a tuner and have it dynotune for your specifice application. Then you KNOW its right AND get the most power you can out of it. You could get your rom back and the airfuel be right and the car run fine, but your not going to get as much power out of it as if you would if you took it and had it dynotuned.

02-25-2008, 12:55 PM	#18 (permalink)
Bern Power Primer Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 240 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	double post, sorry

02-25-2008, 07:21 PM	#19 (permalink)
mr2gq Banned Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 447 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	2 or 3 shops in the US that can tune a mr2 ecu huh LOL? I seriously think ur wrong on that one. Now granted I might have forgot that tuners aren't where everyone lives. Which is maybe mopowers problem, but here in GA they're are plentyful. And just for saying theres only 2 in the US im going to call around and find some shops here just in GA that can tune them, and post it just to let people know thats some BS. And if you got almost 100 more hp just from going to a rom from a stand alone they was seriously something wrong with ur tuner

02-25-2008, 09:26 PM	#20 (permalink)
mr2gq Banned Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 447 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Yeah well obviously there was something wrong with his turbo too cause I got a ct26 and it doesnt drop to 10psi when it gets to 4K rpms. Im not interested in being just right. Maybe its the otehr way around you want to be right. I didnt say it was easy for just ANY tuner to tune it. It takes someone who knows what they are doing cause tuning a car that isnt OBD compliant is harder. Doesnt mean theres only 2 places in the US that can do it. Have you called every tuner in the US and asked them?