forged stroker swap?

[rousegk7]

I just got off the phone with I think Matt about getting some info on the stroker and some options I have.

My car is currently a 94 NA, and I would like the price on getting it converted to 2.2 turbo

I noticed that the price on your website for an "off the shelf" stroker is $2,000 + core
with a couple options that are available.

After talking with Matt, I am going for 425-450rwhp on 110
and hopefully around 350 on 94 when my build is completely done utilizing a twin-scroll GT3076r .

Here is a list of what I would like done initially

NA => turbo swap w. LSD
stroker 2.2
* Not sure on what internals or bearings that should be upgraded but I want to be at 450whp very safely... Eagle rods, acl bearings, arp main/head/cap studs?)
stock head for now
ATS Fuel Rail
Sard 800's
appropriate fuel pump (not sure what a walbro 255 maxes at)
ATS FPR
Clutch (FX400? i believe is the one you have listed)
EGR Delete
TVIS Delete

Now will that be able to run off the stock ecu, or will i need a romtune or EMS? I plan on getting an EMS anyways, so it is not a big deal if I buy one at the same time. I was leaning towards Hydra, but I am open to suggestions.

The car will mainly be a track/strip car, but I will be driving it on the streets.

I see alot of your customers/your cars use the autopower roll cages, is that who you would recommend?

Any other recommendations?

[ATSAaron]

Originally Posted by rousegk7

stroker 2.2
* Not sure on what internals or bearings that should be upgraded but I want to be at 450whp very safely... Eagle rods, acl bearings, arp main/head/cap studs?)

Regular ARP head studs will be fine. Skip the ARP mains. Eagle rods are a good idea, plus they have ARP bolts with them.

Originally Posted by rousegk7

(not sure what a walbro 255 maxes at)

about 525whp on a single pump

Originally Posted by rousegk7

Clutch (FX400? i believe is the one you have listed)

It's actually a custom clutch made by Clutchmaster's to our specs. It's good to about 500, and is still VERY driveable. I got another option that should be good to 600 if you are concerned.

Originally Posted by rousegk7

Now will that be able to run off the stock ecu, or will i need a romtune or EMS?

You will need an EMS. But I would not choose a Hydra. It's VERY, VERY un user friendly. I like the Power FC.

The car will mainly be a track/strip car, but I will be driving it on the streets.

Originally Posted by rousegk7

I see alot of your customers/your cars use the autopower roll cages, is that who you would recommend?

For a cage or a roll bar? If you are looking for a cage I would talk to local racers and have one built for your needs. The Autopower cage doesn't fit as tight as it could against the interior so it makes it really cramped. Their roll bars are fine though.

Thanks,

Aaron

[rousegk7]

You will need an EMS. But I would not choose a Hydra. It's VERY, VERY un user friendly. I like the Power FC.

Does the Power FC have launch control built in, or would I need to buy that separate?

It's actually a custom clutch made by Clutchmaster's to our specs. It's good to about 500, and is still VERY driveable. I got another option that should be good to 600 if you are concerned.

How is the drivability of that one?

For a cage or a roll bar? If you are looking for a cage I would talk to local racers and have one built for your needs. The Autopower cage doesn't fit as tight as it could against the interior so it makes it really cramped. Their roll bars are fine though.

A few local track require a full roll-bar if you are faster than 11.60 in the quarter. . . I would like a bolt in/ removable roll bar if possible, even though I know that it will not stiffen as much as a full welded in unit.

I see that MCS has a full bolt in cage, but am wondering if it is "good"

about 525whp on a single pump

Ok, so I am good on the pump, what about the injectors? I heard 800's start to max out around 450, should I look into 850's for some extra cushion?

Thanks alot for the help, I really appreciate it.

[ATSAaron]

The Power FC does not have built in launch control. I am using a seperate 2 step box with mine.

The "new" secret clutch is very driveable, but the pedal pressure is a little high. About the same pedal pressure as an ACT.

We sent a set of 800's to Witchhunter and they flow tested at 880cc.

I don't have any real answers for you on roll bars/cages. I think your best bet is to find out who the local guys use and go there. Or an Autopower can make a decent starting point (I am pretty sure you will need to add door diagonals).

Aaron

[rousegk7]

Thanks alot Aaron, the new clutch sounds good. I am not worried about high pedal pressure, just how it acts on the street.

Which 2 step box do you use if you don't mind me asking? Also can you send me a pm with a rough price on getting that all done? Thanks.

[ATSAaron]

Send me a PM on exactly what you want done and I'll work on a quote. Sorry for the delay on this BTW.

The 2 step box I am using is a relic from the late 90's made for GM F-bodies and Mustang's running nitrous. It has two timing maps and 2 rev limiters. I set one timing map to all zeros (it either adds or subtracts from the car's base map, or in my case my Power FC map) and the second map is set to about 15 degrees retard. The 2nd rev limiter and 2nd timing map are activated simultaneously when I push in my cluch pedal (I used the stock clutch start switch,..so I have no clutch start safety switch, but I'm used to that so it's no big deal). Anyway, this antique box that you tune by looking at TWO LED numbers and a couple of dots is called "Smart Spark"

I think the new MSD 6AL2 is the best 2 step out there right now, plus you get an upgraded ignition in the process.

Aaron