Make me a shopping list... [$100 budget]

[hmong337]

I haven't the slightest clue on what to buy or purchase when it comes to auto detailing equipment and supplies.

What I was taught to do was just wash and wax by hand... that's all i've ever known. the wax that i used was from my father's friend who worked at the local honda dealership detailing cars. I'm sure it was quality stuff since they used it on dealer cars. but what do i know, right?

That being said, I've never spent a dime on actual car detailing stuff LOL. Always got that stuff for free hahaha. However, I know that it's time to actually get some stuff and do it the right way.

Here's what I want to try...

I heard rubbing compound does wonders and really brings that bling to your paint- bring up more colour from the bottom to the surface. Is this somewhat true?

My paint is original and is in great shape. However, it is a little dull but I know that I can totally restore it to make it shine.

I'm thinking about getting something like this and using rubbing compound. however, i'm not sure as to what's right... what to do and not do.

eBay Motors: New 7" Pro Car Boat Auto Paint Polisher Buffer Sander (item 230160799548 end time Aug-15-07 17:08:25 PDT)

Can somebody make me a shopping list of what to buy (includes a buffer) for around $100?

thanks

[TreyMR2]

rubbing compound works great just be careful when you use it. Clean it ALL off when you done cause you won't like the result of it setting on your paint in the sun.

Try getting a clay bar.

[hmong337]

I kinda learned about rubbing compound through this video i posted in the AW11 section about restoring an AW11.

(Half way through, he teaches on how to buff a car to restore it's luster)

[hmong337]

nobody? i'd like to do this soon...

[proburt]

if you are going to use a rubbing compound only do it by hand. the pollisher will cut right through your paint (not good). if its just light oxidation a good carnuba on a light buffing sponge with the polisher is more than enough. then take a wool bonet to pollish.

meguires, and 3m make and exelent wax. but have heard a paint sealer (by ether company) is better.

[TreyMR2]

meguires makes a nice clay bar kit for $18. It has 2 clay bars, detail spay for using the clay bar, and a cleaner wax. I got it for my can and it did take about 2-3 hours to do but it was well worth it. If the car you are doing it on is the one in your avatar thats all I would think you need to do. My paint was pinkish white when I got it and after rubbing compound I got to right around what you have then the clay bar just toped it off. It makes the paint unbelievably smooth if you do it right. I haven't waxed my car since nov. and it is still to smooth to lean up against without sliding off.

[TomsMR2]

clay bar removes dirt and fall out. nothing else. it wont remove oxidation, scratches, fading, swirls, or any of the things that actually make paint look bad. you can spend hours claying your car only to have just as bad paint as before you started.

for what you're doing, a rotary is fine. get a FINISHING pad and a swirl remover compound. this is a very non aggressive combo and does wonders for paint.. especially for beginners because it cuts so damn slow and lets you learn. the swirl compound will leave your car looking great. after that wash the car with dish soap and dry it, then hit it again with a clean finishing pad and a polish, then wax it up and you're done.

you need to wax your car, ESPECIALLY after compounding. wax blocks UV, also a waxed car is much easier to clean.. dirt doesnt stick fantastically well to wax, also prevents bird poop damage.

i have a 25 dollar HF rotary buffer. it kind of sucks, but i dont use it often, and ultimately it does work.. the speed control is a little touchy sometimes, but nothing you cant live with. if you're not counting on heavy use, you can cheap out on a buffer and be fine.. you cant cheap out on pads though, get good ones.

[Mister2.2]

You need a D/A Polisher, NOT a rotary, they are for professionals and you aren't going to buy a good rotary for for cheap on ebay, it will be junk.

What you need is a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher such as the 7424

Porter Cable 7424 Polisher & Ultimate Detailing Machine Car Polisher Guide

[GR8MR2]

You are not going to get a PC and pads and product for $100. Don't waste your money on a cheap buffer. They don't have enough power to polish out defects. Budget for a PC. You can get a PC for around $100. Add a few pads and a quality backing plate and you add another $50-$75. You then need a decent pair of polishes. Something like Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze. Add anther $25-$30 for the polishes. Lastly you need a sealant. I'd suggest Meguair's #21 Synthetic Sealant or NXT Tech Wax. Add another $20. You need a few quality microfiber towels to buff off the products. Figure another $20. Don't forget you need to clay prior to polishing so get a Smooth Surface Clay Kit for around $18.

You really need a $200-$250 budget.

Maybe you can start with the Deep Crystal Cleaner, Polish and NXT Tech Wax and plan on doing it by hand until you can budget enough to get the polisher and associated products.

[TomsMR2]

cheap buffers absolutely have the power to buff off anything.. including the paint.

rotaries are used every single day by tens of thousands of detailer and painters worldwide without issue. a little common sense goes a long way with a buffer.

you absolutely dont need 200+ just to buff a car.

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

cheap buffers absolutely have the power to buff off anything.. including the paint.

rotaries are used every single day by tens of thousands of detailer and painters worldwide without issue. a little common sense goes a long way with a buffer.

you absolutely dont need 200+ just to buff a car.

If all you want to do is buff off wax then you are correct... If you are trying to do paint correction then I disagree.

I must have gone through a dozen el-cheapo buffers trying to do paint correction when I started out my detailing career. Cheap buffers are worthless for removing paint defects. There is no cheap alternative to using quality tools for paint correction.

My PC's, (7336 and 7428) are both well over 10 years old and still going strong. I still detail 1-2 cars a week now that I've retired. These buffers cost me about $300 for the pair and have polished literally over a thousand vehicles. Well worth the investment if you want to do serious paint correction more than once.

[TomsMR2]

I must have gone through a dozen el-cheapo buffers trying to do paint correction when I started out my detailing career. Cheap buffers are worthless for removing paint defects. There is no cheap alternative to using quality tools for paint correction.

if a cheap buffer turns at 1000rpm, and a makita turns at 1000rpm, they're identical. im talking about rotary buffers, not those big two-handed orbitals sold at walmart. they do cut paint, and cut paint fine, because its the exact same action! cut is determined by the pad, compound, and speed.

if you're buffing 1000 vehicles, yes you should buy a makita class buffer. if you're going to buff your car once and stick the thing in your garage, its really a waste of money. its about durability.

[Mister2.2]

Who's only going to buff their car once? You're going to get more resell value out of your PC or Makita anyhow. I think it's just good habit that if you want to do a professional job then use professional tools.

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

if a cheap buffer turns at 1000rpm, and a makita turns at 1000rpm, they're identical. im talking about rotary buffers, not those big two-handed orbitals sold at walmart. they do cut paint, and cut paint fine, because its the exact same action! cut is determined by the pad, compound, and speed.

if you're buffing 1000 vehicles, yes you should buy a makita class buffer. if you're going to buff your car once and stick the thing in your garage, its really a waste of money. its about durability.

Cut is determined by the pad, compound, speed and pressure applied. They don't both go at 1000 RPM when you apply the needed pressure to remove paint defects. The cheap buffers immediately bog down and overheat. I've found, repeatedly, that the cheap buffers just don't have the guts needed to do the job properly. Think about this... For what you pay for a couple cheap buffers, whose performance and durability are clearly inferior, you can have a quality tool. One that has the kohonies to do the job quickly and repeatedly and one that will last for years.

Here is what AutoGeek says about buffers.
Car Buffers, Car Polishers and Rotary Polishers - polishing foam pads

Here are some threads from other experienced detailers on cheap buffers.
Meguiar's Online - First time detailing. Some product advice please
Meguiar's Online - Can't afford PC..will Simonize buffer do?
Newbie ?'s on polishing. - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
PC help - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
Can I trust those cheap TurtleWax buffers? - Autopia Car Detailing Forum

The consensus is the same no matter what detailing forum you visit. People who are serious about paint correction know what works and what doesn't.

But, Tom, if a cheap buffer works for you, go for it. They clearly never worked for me.

[hmong337]

Judging by your comments and gallery, gr8mr2, i think i know who to believe on this subject matter.

question, i have a 10" orbital that i found lying around in my garage. are these machines okay? i've used it twice already since i posted this thread. didn't seem that bad (but what do I know...?). Are there any sites you can refer me to that can show me how to properly detail my car (step by step)? What products to use and in what sequence?

thank you.

[GR8MR2]

Originally Posted by hmong337

Judging by your comments and gallery, gr8mr2, i think i know who to believe on this subject matter.

question, i have a 10" orbital that i found lying around in my garage. are these machines okay? i've used it twice already since i posted this thread. didn't seem that bad (but what do I know...?). Are there any sites you can refer me to that can show me how to properly detail my car (step by step)? What products to use and in what sequence?

thank you.

That 10" probably has no real choices of backing plates, and foam pads for it but it is probably ok for wax application and removal. If you want to remove swirls and scratches however I'd look for a better product. 10" is too large for polishing, IMO.

Some good sites I'd recommend are:

Autopia (excellent detailing forum)
Guide to Detailing - Autopia Car Detailing Forum
Car Care Products: Car Waxes to Leather Cleaners, Meguiar's the Leader in Car and Surface Care since 1901 (some videos available there)
Meguiar's Online (excellent detailing forum)
We Are Car Care ! Car Wax - Car Polish - Auto Detailing Supplies & Car Accessories (some videos available there)
Detailing Tips

[hmong337]

yea, the 10" is indeed too large. but i found it in my garage so...

however, it's not like i have major issues with my paint. I do have "rust specs" or whatever they're called embedded in my rear bumper. I assume with proper technique that claybar'ing is supposed to get that stuff out?

thank you for the links

[TomsMR2]

.. did you even read your own links? the first one is about orbital buffers, irrelevant. the second one is about orbital buffers, irrelevant.the 3rd and 4th are product links. and the 5th and 6th.. again, about orbital buffers, and again.. irrelevant. i didnt see a single thing about cheap rotary buffers.

maybe you misunderstood what i said or didnt notice the rotary buffer in the first post? cheap orbital buffers do bog down almost instantly and are worthless. but thats drastically different than a rotary buffer of any price. the only problem ive ever had with mine is speed regulation. it jumps sometimes, but never bogs down, and has never "burnt up".. just used it again today, without issue. went from rough orange peel, sanded down smooth and cut/polished out haze and scratch free..

[TomsMR2]

the makita and dewalt are about 200-250 bucks. the G100 and PC DA polishers are 100-150 bucks.

if you want to double your budget, go ahead and go with the PC or G100 polishers. nothing wrong with having quality tools, i have a big toolbox filled with top of the line snapon tools that i use daily.. but a cheapass buffer in my garage that i use almost never. theres a value in good tools, and common sense in not overbuying. you dont need a 250 dollar makita for touchup. you cant cheap out on pads or compounds, and a 10 compound dollar pad here, 10 dollar polish pad there, 15-20 dollar compound here, 15-20 dollar polish there and soon you're over your budget without factoring in a 150 dollar DA.

[Mister2.2]

I can't see spending that much on accessories if you're never going to use it again anyhow, might as well just have it done at a body shop.