Engine Bay Polishing Question

canadam · 09-03-2007, 07:53 PM

What have you guys used to polish up cast parts such as the coolant waterneck?

Sang · 09-03-2007, 08:54 PM

I used a small file to grind down the seams and any numbers, letters, et cetera.

I then used 220 grit+sanding block to remove the castings and further reshape any areas that need it.

I then use 320 grit, then 400 grit DRY (this kinda sucks cause the papers has to constantly be cleaned), 600 grit WET, then 1000 grit.

Afterwards, get a polishing compound and have at it.

I must stress that the first two stages of the process (filing+220 grit and 320 grit) are the most important. I did the plenum on a manifold over the summer, looked 100% better than it does stock, but no where near perfect. I will be getting a new stock manifold from Shaun and will be polishing up that for a 2nd attempt. This time i'm not stopping until it has a mirror finish

If you have a decent sized air compressor and die grinder. You can use 3M rolocs discs to remove the casting (course pad, then medium pad, then fine pad), then start going at it with 400 grit WET, et cetera.

canadam · 09-03-2007, 11:10 PM

Cool. Thanks

Ryansmagic · 09-04-2007, 05:24 PM

I start out with 80 grid, then 120 then 220 then 300 then 400 then 600 then 1000 then 2000
once I hit 600, I use dry then wet
then polish

09-03-2007, 07:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
canadam MidshipExpress Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Beautiful British Columbia Posts: 9,549 Thanks: 117 Thanked 129 Times in 112 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (29/100% )	Engine Bay Polishing Question What have you guys used to polish up cast parts such as the coolant waterneck? __________________ WTB ASAP: Black Glove Box Surround - Not the box itself, but the dash plastics it sits in 3SGTE Upper Timing Belt Cover Driver's side seatback - must have bolster and lumbar adjustments, cover condition does not matter - will trade non-adjustable. Genuine Tom's Sides and Rear - replica kits not considered Frunk Plastics - no cracks Mechanical Gauge Cluster - KP/H preferred, but not required. Engine Bay X Brace

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09-03-2007, 08:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
Sang Go Magic! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Home: Tampa, FL School: Gainesville, FL Posts: 3,399 Thanks: 19 Thanked 220 Times in 200 Posts iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	I used a small file to grind down the seams and any numbers, letters, et cetera. I then used 220 grit+sanding block to remove the castings and further reshape any areas that need it. I then use 320 grit, then 400 grit DRY (this kinda sucks cause the papers has to constantly be cleaned), 600 grit WET, then 1000 grit. Afterwards, get a polishing compound and have at it. I must stress that the first two stages of the process (filing+220 grit and 320 grit) are the most important. I did the plenum on a manifold over the summer, looked 100% better than it does stock, but no where near perfect. I will be getting a new stock manifold from Shaun and will be polishing up that for a 2nd attempt. This time i'm not stopping until it has a mirror finish If you have a decent sized air compressor and die grinder. You can use 3M rolocs discs to remove the casting (course pad, then medium pad, then fine pad), then start going at it with 400 grit WET, et cetera.

09-03-2007, 11:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
canadam MidshipExpress Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Beautiful British Columbia Posts: 9,549 Thanks: 117 Thanked 129 Times in 112 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (29/100% )	Cool. Thanks

09-04-2007, 05:24 PM	#4 (permalink)
Ryansmagic No Skills Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 111 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	I start out with 80 grid, then 120 then 220 then 300 then 400 then 600 then 1000 then 2000 once I hit 600, I use dry then wet then polish